 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / November 20072007 300C w/Goodyear tires--Noisy
Car came with Goodyear Assurance tires. After around 16K miles, they developed a whirring, roaring sound that increase in pitch with speed, almost as if they were cupped. Too new for bad shocks, I thought. I rotate tires every 6000 miles religiously. Had an alignment, and dealer said tires were slightly "feathered". Asked him what might cause that, and he said alignment. I would think with regular rotation that shouldn't be a big problem. Anyone have similar complaint/experience? What can I do, short of replacing the darn things?  SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. Sounds like a repeat of the crappy tire problem that came with the 1999 300M. Tires were crap after 12k miles. Goodyear replaced them. Replacements were crap after 10k miles. I replaced them with Michelins. Problem solved. > Car came with Goodyear Assurance tires. After around 16K miles, they > developed a whirring, roaring sound that increase in pitch with speed, [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Anyone have similar complaint/experience? What can I do, short of > replacing the darn things? > Sounds like a repeat of the crappy tire problem that came with the > 1999 300M. Tires were crap after 12k miles. Goodyear replaced > them. Replacements were crap after 10k miles. I replaced them > with Michelins. Problem solved. I replaced the Goodyear (Eagles?) on my 300m with Dunlop SP5000's, and when they wore out I went with Yokohama Advan S4. The S4 is a very quiet tire. It's billed as an "ultra high performace all season" tire, but I put snows on in the winter. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+S.4. > >> Sounds like a repeat of the crappy tire problem that came with the [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+S.4. Hmmm. Link leads to page that says "We were unable to find a match for the Yokohama tire you selected." Perusing all Yokohama tires on Tirerack, I couldn't find one in 225/60/18, the original equip. size on my 300C. Did you use the optional size? SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. >> >>> Sounds like a repeat of the crappy tire problem that came with the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Tirerack, I couldn't find one in 225/60/18, the original equip. size on > my 300C. Did you use the optional size? OOPS! Make that "perusing all Yokohama Advan S4....." SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. > Hmmm. Link leads to page that says "We were unable to find a match > for the Yokohama tire you selected." Perusing all Yokohama tires > on Tirerack, I couldn't find one in 225/60/18, the original equip. > size on my 300C. Did you use the optional size? I don't drive the Tonka Toy (aka 300c). I have a 300m. The more classy-looking 300. My 300m has 17" wheels. Your Fisher Price 300c has 18" wheels. The large wheels are one of the reasons for the tire noise (tire-slap). >> Hmmm. Link leads to page that says "We were unable to find a match >> for the Yokohama tire you selected." Perusing all Yokohama tires [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > My 300m has 17" wheels. Your Fisher Price 300c has 18" wheels. The > large wheels are one of the reasons for the tire noise (tire-slap). Er, uh...they look alike, except for the emblem on the trunk, and the chrome-backed mirrors on the C (toy?!?!). Oh, well; everyone to their own perversion! :-) SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. > > I have a 300m. The more classy-looking 300. > > Your Fisher Price 300c has 18" wheels. > > Er, uh...they look alike, except for the emblem on the trunk You need glasses - or lay off the coke. sounds as if you arent sure that it is the tires causing the noise. Have you rotated them to see if the noise changes? could you be hearing a wheel bearing problem? Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech -- Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/ More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html > sounds as if you arent sure that it is the tires causing the noise. Have > you rotated them to see if the noise changes? could you be hearing a wheel > bearing problem? > > Glenn Beasley > Chrysler Tech Thanks for the reply. Yes--you'll note in my original post that I DO rotate every 6,000 miles. The noise just cropped up recently, around 16K miles, after a 1,600 mile trip across country. Rotation right after that did not cure the noise. And, I am certain that the tires are the cause of the noise; two dealers have confirmed that I do NOT have a wheel bearing problem, and one dealer said that the "feathering" would cause the tires to be noisy. He said that driving them would eventually lessen the noise--that's NOT my experience with tires that have developed cupping or feathering over the years, and with many cars. It used to be that one could have tires "trued"--a process of trimming a small amount of rubber from the tread to eliminate the cupping/feathering; but, no one does that any more. > -- > Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/ > More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. > ...And, I am certain that the tires are the cause of the noise; > two dealers have confirmed that I do NOT have a wheel bearing problem, > and one dealer said that the "feathering" would cause the tires to be > noisy. He said that driving them would eventually lessen the > noise--that's NOT my experience with tires that have developed cupping > or feathering over the years, and with many cars. As I said in my other post - kind of an inherent property of so-called hi-performance tires - due to very little siping and large tread blocks that create the cupping. Again - low tread life, almost guaranteed noise halfway thru the otherwise usable low tread life, high initial cost, and absolutely no help from the manufacturer when such problems develop because this kind of problem is accepted in the industry. So why buy them? Look into Cooper touring tire CS-4. Super quiet, and very good tread life. Approx. $85 each. A bargain in my book. And have your local tire dealer order them in. By the time you pay shipping and extra installation costs (and no one to turn to if problems develop) if ordering from Tire Rack, the seemingly good price for mail order tires doesn't look so hot - better off getting from your local tire dealer who you also get your alignments from (which also reduces finger-pointing if problems develop). > It used to be that one could have tires "trued"--a process of trimming a > small amount of rubber from the tread to eliminate the > cupping/feathering; but, no one does that any more. Yep - by the time you pay the labor of the truing process and subtract out the cost of the reduced life of the tires from removing tread depth, you are money ahead by just starting with a new set of tires - *plus* there's a chance that the problem is still there even after the truing. That's why no one does truing anymore. It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before you even posted. :) Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before you > even posted. :) Nope, just gut feelings. Since I don't live in "the big city", I was hoping I could pick the brains of folks who know more than I, maybe those who have been exposed to more advanced technology than that available in RURAL central MO! My selling dealer is in Columbia, and his techs "didn't hear any noise"; of course, they don't hear it driving only 3 or 4 miles. They don't live with the car. Not like driving 4K miles across country, and putting 20K miles on in a year. You mentioned Cooper; I have a local dealer who can get Coopers for me. BUT, I had two sets of Cobra's on a 2001 Nissan Altima, BOTH of which developed cupping after some 20K miles, even with alignments, rotation, AND new rear struts. Twice burned, not again. > Bill Putney > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. >> It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before you >> even posted. :) [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > who have been exposed to more advanced technology than that available in > RURAL central MO! This may be a stupid thing to do, but if you reverse rotation on 'em, they'll have to un-feather. They'd have no choice whatsoever. I did that on 1 tire last year, but I wouldn't much want to do it on all 4. I'm old, so I don't like running radials backward. >>> It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before you >>> even posted. :) [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > 1 tire last year, but I wouldn't much want to do it on all 4. I'm old, so I > don't like running radials backward. Good point, Joe, and it makes sense. I asked my dealer about front-to-back rotation vs. X-type rotation, remembering that I, too, had always been told radials should NOT be run backwards from their previous mode. His response was that was true with radials many years ago. But, with new belting methods, it doesn't matter any more. So, I may try your suggestion of reversing their rotation. Since I just had them rotated (dealer did front-to-back) all I need to do is exchange sides. SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. >>>> It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before >>>> you even posted. :) [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > had them rotated (dealer did front-to-back) all I need to do is exchange > sides. I know you're in troubleshooting mode right now, but when you are past this problem and do get back to normal tire maintenance, the right way to rotate is to cross the ones that go from back to front, bring the fronts straight back (or vice-versa). By only crossing one pair at a time (and not crossing the other pair), that puts each tire at every position over their life and maximizes the evening out of irregular wear and maximizes the effective tread life. The method I described is called "cross to front". Any good tire shop should know what you mean if you throw that phrase at them. If they give you a dumb look, either find another shop, or explain it to them. The important thing is that you use the same method consistently for a given set of tires. If you mix the mehtods (cross to front and cross to rear), then it messes up the optimization. That's why you tell them the method and not assume which they will use (which also lets them know not to cross both pairs and not to *not* cross them. There are what are called dierctional tires that cannot be crossed. But that has to do with directional tread pattern (for water shedding) - not tire construction so much. But those tires are clearly marked with an arrow and are not so common in ordinary everyday tires like you and I buy. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > There are what are called dierctional tires that cannot be crossed. But > that has to do with directional tread pattern (for water shedding) - not > tire construction so much. But those tires are clearly marked with an > arrow and are not so common in ordinary everyday tires like you and I buy. Thanks, Bill. Great info. As for directional tires, I believe Falken is one of those. I used a set on my '83 280ZX Turbo. Seemed like a good tire. > Bill Putney > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. >> There are what are called dierctional tires that cannot be crossed. >> But that has to do with directional tread pattern (for water shedding) [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Thanks, Bill. Great info. You're welcome. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') >> It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before you >> even posted. :) [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > developed cupping after some 20K miles, even with alignments, rotation, > AND new rear struts. Twice burned, not again. Re-read what I said about so-called high performance tires. I bet the Coopers you had noise problems with were so-called high performance tires (large tread blocks/very little siping). The CS4 is not of that type. If you refused to do business with any manufacturer who makes some lines of tires that get noisy (so-called high performance tires), you would have no one to buy tires from. Don't cut off your nose to spite your face (I know - I do the same thing - I swear I'll never buy another Dunlop tire because I had serious noise problems with one of their so-called high performance tires and they refused to make good on them even though nothing I did or didn't do caused the problem). IOW - Don't rule out a particular manufacturer over *this* problem. Rule out so-called high performance tires from *any* manufacturer that you pay 2 to 3 times as much for and get 1/4 to 1/2 the service life out of and instead get a good touring tire from an otherwise good manufacturer. You'll be money way ahead. IMO... Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > Re-read what I said about so-called high performance tires. > I bet the Coopers you had noise problems with were so-called > high performance tires (large tread blocks/very little siping). Does this tire conform to your definition (large tread blocks, very little siping) ? http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+S.4. >>> It seems to me that you knew the answers to your questions before you >>> even posted. :) [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > tires (large tread blocks/very little siping). The CS4 is not of that > type. I DO understand, and will make that part of my decision process when choosing the next set of tires. The Coopers I had were the Cobra, but without raised white lettering. That was some year and a half ago. Looks like they have changed the Cobra. > If you refused to do business with any manufacturer who makes some lines > of tires that get noisy (so-called high performance tires), you would [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > and instead get a good touring tire from an otherwise good > manufacturer. You'll be money way ahead. Will do! > IMO... > > Bill Putney > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. > Look into Cooper touring tire CS-4. > By the time you pay shipping and extra installation costs > (and no one to turn to if problems develop) if ordering from > Tire Rack, I don't think Tire Rack carries Cooper. > Car came with Goodyear Assurance tires. After around 16K miles, they > developed a whirring, roaring sound that increase in pitch with speed, [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Anyone have similar complaint/experience? What can I do, short of > replacing the darn things? Consistent with what others are saying in their replies to you, once a problem like this develops with a given set of tires, it's pretty much impossible to correct that set of tires. Best thing to do is get an alignment now simultaneous with replacing the tires to something not considered "high performance". So-called high performance tires are a very poor value in my opinion (and yes - it is my opinion which anyone is free to disagree with). You pay 2 to 3 times more for a tire that will have 1/2 the tread life of a non-high performance tire, and will likely develop noise problems like this 1/2 way thru that period, and the tire manufacturer will not adjust it no matter what (because they are high performance and that makes it easy for the manufacturer to pretend that you are to blame by abuse, neglect, improper alignment, or anything else they can think of to shift the blame to you, and you have no effective recourse). As I said: Very poor value compared to a nice touring tire IMO. So yourself a favor and *always* get 'before' and 'after' printouts with your alignments. You will prevent a lot of headscratching and maximize your chances of avoiding this kind of problem. In this particular case, when you do get the new tires and alignment, getting 'before' and 'after' printouts will sove the mystery - at least for you own curiousity - of whether your alignment was out and cause the present problem *OR* that your alingment was in fact fine and the problem is poorly designed tires. This will make you smarter for future tire selections and help you avoid b.s. artists in the tire market. IMO... Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > > S N I P < < < > Consistent with what others are saying in their replies to you, once a > problem like this develops with a given set of tires, it's pretty much [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') OK, I understand about "hi-performance" = HI-NOISE! I know this is a Chrysler NG, but got a question about similar problem on my other car, and what tire I might choose. Got a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon that came with Michelin MXV4 tires. Now needing replacement, and they are noisy to boot. Which Michelin would you suggest? (I say Michelin, as I favor them from past experience.) Note that I will probably be using Sam's Club as a source, as they carry Michelins (but NOT the MXV4), and their prices are very good. Thanks, Bill (and all). SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. Are they MXV4 tires or MXV4+. The latter are significantly improved. >> > > S N I P < < < > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > > Thanks, Bill (and all). > Are they MXV4 tires or MXV4+. The latter are significantly improved. MXV4--without the Plus. There is also an "M+<something>" stamped on them; can't see the character after the Plus sign. They are some 4 years old as well, so I suspect they are the plain MXV4. Seems the guy at Sam's said they sell Michelin X, but I can't find anything on Sam's web site about that model. I need to replace them, and I want to use non-high performance tires, per Bill Putney's advice. SignatureThieves get rich and saints get shot, and God don't answer prayers a lot. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.