regardless of what brand you get make dam sure all connections are soldered!
do not allow  butt connectors or scotch locks or t taps! the system is as only
as good as the install do not let them bs you soldering is the only correct way
to install it
that way if there is any failure it is from the components which is hardly ever

Well, that is not exactly right. If you solder, use 60-40 rosin core radio
solder. That's 60% tin and 40% lead. Use the proper iron, a 100 watt model
or an industrial strength soldering gun.

Actually, crimp connectors are just fine. The manufacter uses them all over
the car. Just make sure you do it right. The wire gauge should fit the
connector gauge. If the wire is too small, double it over and solder it
first, then insert and crimp. Use a Vise Grips for crimping. The biggest
mistake you can make is to use an AMP pliers. Give it the yank test. If you
think about it, soldering is rare. Every plug and connector is just a slip
fit contact, not soldered. Your telephone system is all crimped and it is
100% all the time. That is why they call it POTS.

Here's another tips: Pack your connectors with pure white grease. Keeps out
the water. Use stranded wire, never solid. Use the same gauge or better. If
you don't know, calculate the gauge with charts found in a handbook like
any A & P handbook. Those guys who work on planes know more in their little
finger than Philthy knows in his whole f****** head.

Here's a tip for using PVC tape. Most guys do it wrong. The proper way to
wrap wires is to wrap wire #1 with a few turns, then bring in wire #2 and
make a turn, then repeat for #3....etc. Then you have a bundle properly
wrapped. Do not do as most jacklegs in the business and grab a bunch of
wires and start wrapping the whole bundle, instead do wrap one at a time
until the bundle is built up.

Buy a VTVM, its a lot better than a test lamp. Believe it or not a general
purpose oscilloscope will take the place of the most expensive Sun Tester
made when it comes to analyzing CPU controlled fuel injection systems.
Almost never will the factory tell you what the signals look like coming
from the logic module, power module or whatever. A scope will tell you
what's happening in those mysterious wires. At least half the time, the
problem is in the connectors. They get loose. the best way to fix them is
to make a 1/8 inch tapered needle on the grinding wheel, heat it red hot
and push into the nylon blocks to force the spung contact tangs back into a
nice and tight configuration. Then they make good contact and the S.O.B.
works again. Usually when the fuel pump or ignition quits, its the plug
went bad and needs fixing with the red hot.

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I bought the Bulldog/JBS system and was about to install it in my car.  Then
the car got totaled in an accident.  The replacement car came with a 'Viper'
Valet system.  Nice.  I've been told the Viper is the best setup out there,
but the Bulldog has great instructions and manuals.  They have a DVD
that comes with the kit that is pretty good at describing how to do the
install and the PROPER way of 'splicing in' to a wire.  The install kit
comes with a little tool to help test and verify connections.  What's also
nice is they also have 'vehicle specific' harnesses that can cut your
install
time by hours.  Turns out the harness for my Pontiac that got totaled will
also work in my Olds, so I can install the remote starter in my other car
now.

Oh, they have a new system now that just 'plugs in'.  Kind of pricey,
but it uses your cell phone to call and start.  Makes me wonder what
happens if you don't have service where you park...

Mike

Thanks to all who replied. I went ahead and got a Bulldog remote starter
along with the 791 bypass.  I will post some results when I get this thing
installed.

BB