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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / February 20082001 Intrips SE Windows Fogging
I have a 2001 2.7L Dodge Intrepid SE (base model w/69K miles) that has been very reliable and served me well, but I am experiencing a "problem" and would appreciate others thoughts. When the outside temperature is cold (and I will define cold here to mean somewhere below 10-15 degrees F), if I try to set the air outlet control to the heater position (even when the car is 100% warmed up), then all of the windows in the car (this includes the rear window, side windows, and the front widshield) fog up (and will actually freeze) making visibility impossible. The only solution is to run the defroster 100% of the time and even then, if it is extremely cold (like it is today with the temperature f -6 degrees F on my way into work), then the side windows will still freeze up even with the defroster blowing hot air at full force. I've attempted to clean the windows thoroughly without any change in this condition and also tried to look for any possible source for the water vapor, but also without success. The engine coolant level is normal and is not leaking. The coolant temperature gauge goes to the normal/mid-scale position when the car warms up (5-10 minutes) and the outlet control and blower speed both seem to work properly since air comes out of the appropriate outlet dependent on the knob position. The Air Conditioner also works perfectly and the compressor clutch engages on warmer days when the defroster position is selected. At this point I am at a loss to explain this behavior and would appreciate knowing if other Intrepid owners experience the same issue or if someone has any idea on what I can look for to see where this moisture comes from. (I know some of it comes from breathing, but this has NEVER been a problem with any other vehicles and they generally carry more passengers than I do in this car. Thanks in advance for all thoughts. Bob > I have a 2001 2.7L Dodge Intrepid SE (base model w/69K miles) that has been > very reliable and served me well, but I am experiencing a "problem" and [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Bob Bob - You seem to have just about covered most of the bases. One thing you danced around a couple of times but without really stating explicitly is if the air that is coming out of the correct vents is actually warm or not. Since you appear to have eliminated that moisture is leaking into the ducting from the heater core and confirmed that the a.c. is working in defrost mode, I am going to assume that the problem is that the air is not getting warm. Three possible causes that I can think of, and I have read on the LH car forums of all three of these occurring: (1) The heater core is clogged, so, even though your engine is cooling fine, the coolant is not circulating thru the heater core. (2) Your coolant may be low or have an air pocket (actually they are one and the same) - leaving you enough coolant to cool the engine fine, but, again, leaving the heater core without circulating warm coolant. (3) The blend door is not operating correctly. That door is a vane that determine what proportion of the air forced by the fan is going thru the heater core fins vs. going around (bypassing) the heater core. That's my best shot. Obviously the best scenario would be no. (2) or (3) - and they are both definitely possible. Like I said, I have read many posts by people on the LH car forums where any one of the three has happened. If the air coming out of the ducting is in fact warm, then, with your having covered the other bases, I'm at a loss as the things I came up with only address the air coming out of the ducts not being warm. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') Bill, As always, thanks for your thoughts. The air that is exiting the defroster and the heater are definitely warm to hot. They can fully warm the vehicle if I drive ~25-30 minutes with an outside air temp of -6F. I will have to take a look a the blend door when the weather gets warmer. Is there supposed to always be "some" leakage to the windshield defroster vents even when on the heater setting? All I can figure is that nothing at all gets directed there and the extreme cold, coupled with the vehicle speed is chilling the windshield. If I heat the passenger compartment using the heater setting, then the moisture from my breath is being absorbed into the warmed air and then condensing on the cold windshield and side windows. Only when the setting is moved to defrost and after the windshield and side windows warm sufficiently does the condensation stop and I get regular visibility. If anyone has any other thoughts, let me know! Bob > Bob - You seem to have just about covered most of the bases. One thing > you danced around a couple of times but without really stating explicitly [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') > Bill, > > As always, thanks for your thoughts... Thanks, Bob. > Only when the setting is moved to defrost and after the windshield and side > windows warm sufficiently does the condensation stop and I get regular > visibility. I'm thinking that that sentence is the key to your problem. You need to put it in defrost from the start. No - there won't be any heat at that point, but the a.c. will run to pull moisture out of the air - that's how it is designed to work. You're not allowing the system to do its job. Glenn - others - aren't I right on that? Anyway, Bob - try that and see. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > Bill, > > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Glenn - others - aren't I right on that? Yup. No different than how my 98 was behaving on Sunday when temperatures were similar. (-9) Got to warm the windshield enough that inside moisture doesn't condense, you can switch to dash vents and aim the two outboard ones at the side windows but then the windshield starts to fog up. Lot of square inches to the LH windshield... I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and there was always a puddle of water under the front passenger side of the vehicle. With every other vehicle I have ever owned, I have been able to use the "heat" (floor outlet) or vent (dash outlet) settings, even in super-cold weather. Occasionally I might need to run the defroster or select a setting that provided a mix of both floor and defrost to clear the windshield, but this car is completely different! If I even attempt to turn the control knob to any other setting other than full defrost mode, my windshield and side windows frost over and I lose visibility. In addition, no matter how long I run the defroster when it is really cold outside (below zero F), even to the point where the front windshield and both side front windows are completely clear, and it is actually uncomfortable because it is so warm in the car, the rear windows will still stay completely frosted over. I can run the electric rear window defogger and this clears the rear window so there is visibility, but the rear side windows just never seem to clear up at all. I really think that there must be some other source for this moisture, but I simply can't find it! If it is not the coolant, and not from the passengers, and not already in the trapped air in the vehicle (which is also sub-zero so should be very dry), then where does it come from? By the way, it has done this since I've owned it (4 years), but only gets really annoying when the temperatures dip to around zero F. Unfortunately, this winter is just plain cold so it is worse than it has been the last few years. As additional info. I'm getting ready to hand down this vehicle to my son this Spring and would like to solve this permanently so that he does not have this trouble next winter. Bob >> > Bill, >> > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > ones at the side windows but then the windshield starts to fog up. > Lot of square inches to the LH windshield... > I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been > experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and there [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] >> ones at the side windows but then the windshield starts to fog up. >> Lot of square inches to the LH windshield... At those temperatures the condensate may be freezing in the drain and causing a backup. It sounds to me like condensate is the most likely culprit. Have you checked under the floor mats to ensure you don't have excess moisture there? > I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been > experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and there > was always a puddle of water under the front passenger side of the vehicle. (snip) That puddle of water is the first indication that the drain is clogged. You had issues this summer. Your drain is clogged. Unclog it, and no puddle, no window condensation. Deke >> I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been >> experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Deke Deke - I think you mis-read where he said "had not been experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and there was always a puddle of water under the front passenger side of the vehicle." I read it wrong the first time too. He's saying that the drain drains onto the ground ("...under the front passenger side of the vehicle") just like it's supposed to. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > >> I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been > >> experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') I did mis read it, my bad. And I still firmly believe that if the ac is working, and is charged, the only thing that can logically cause this problem is a clogged drain. Deke Still needs to be checked ...it is on the list, but at 4 below zero not anytime soon. Thanks again >> >> I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been >> >> experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Deke Why does a pool of water under the passenger side where the drain is located indicate a problem? Every car I have owned that was equipped with AC did this ... I agree it is worth checking, but not till it warms up some since my garage is not heated and temperatures here have been brutal. Thanks to all for their thoughts. Bob >> I will check the condensate drain as Deke suggested, but had not been >> experiencing any issues over the summer when the AC ran regularly and [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Deke > Why does a pool of water under the passenger side where the drain is located > indicate a problem? Every car I have owned that was equipped with AC did > this ... I think he mis-read your post, Bob. When you said a pool of water *under* the passenger side (i.e., on the garage floor), I believe he was thinking a pool of water *in* the passenger side (i.e., wet carpet). Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > Bill, > > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') As suggested make sure the drain is not stopped up. If there is a lot of moisture in the vehicle be it from wet carpet (rain or snow) it will take awhile to get the moisture out. But if the windows are still damp inside after the engine coolant is at operating temps and the moisture is still in the vehicle there is something wrong. Make sure the RECIRC door is working. If the recirc door is closed, it will take a long time to get the moisture out. It wouldn't hurt to do a recalibration on the system. With the vehicle at room temperature (Garage) 10°-27° C. (50° to 80° F.), Disconnect the battery for ten minutes to erase DTCs. 2. Reconnect the battery and start the vehicle, this will initiate the HVAC system calibration. Allow approximately five minutes for the calibration to complete. 3. Operate the vehicle and HVAC system to verify that Symptoms and/or DTCs are gone. > ...It wouldn't hurt to do a recalibration on the system. > With the vehicle at room temperature (Garage) 10°-27° C. (50° to 80° F.), [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > 3. Operate the vehicle and HVAC system to verify that Symptoms and/or DTCs > are gone. He's got the base model, Glenn - i.e., manual temp controls, no ATC. Reset won't affect a manual system, or will it? Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > ...It wouldn't hurt to do a recalibration on the system. > > With the vehicle at room temperature (Garage) 10°-27° C. (50° to 80° F.), [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') ATC or manual. If the OP has access to a scan tool, the BCM may want to be scanned for any door problems > > ...It wouldn't hurt to do a recalibration on the system. > > With the vehicle at room temperature (Garage) 10°-27° C. (50° to 80° F.), [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') Both the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) and the Manual Temperature Control (MTC) systems are controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM). Both systems can be diagnosed by the scan tool or the vehicles own control head display. There are three DTC tables. The ATC and MTC DTC table contain faults that are common to both the ATC and the MTC system. The same diagnosis can be used for both systems. The DTC's cover operation of the climate control unit actuators, doors, evaporator temperature sensor, ambient temperature sensor and the A/C refrigerant system. The MTC DTC table covers Fault Codes that are for the MTC Control Head and wiring and are not used on an ATC system. The ATC DTC table has DTC's for ATC Head Communications, In-Car Temperature Sensor and Sun Sensor which are not in a MTC system. Some conditions of low battery voltage or extremely cold weather can generate a DTC for the climate control system actuators, evaporator probe, in-car temperature sensor (ATC), or ambient temperature sensor, even in a properly operating system. ATC AND MTC DTC's CODE DESCRIPTION 23 BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR FEEDBACK FAILURE 24 MODE DOOR ACTUATOR FEEDBACK FAILURE 25 AMBIENT SENSOR 31 RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR STALL FAILURE 32 BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR STALL FAILURE 33 MODE DOOR ACTUATOR STALL FAILURE 35 EVAPORATOR SENSOR FAILURE 37 BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY 38 BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO GROUND 39 MODE DOOR ACTUATOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY 40 MODE DOOR ACTUATOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO GROUND 41 RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR OUPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY 42 RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO GROUND 43 COMMON DOOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY 44 COMMON DOOR OUTPUT SHORTED TO GROUND 51 SYSTEM VOLTAGE TOO LOW FOR DOOR CALIBRATION MTC DTC's CODE DESCRIPTION 45 A/C CONTROL BLEND DOOR INPUT OPEN OR SHORTED TO GROUND 46 A/C CONTROL BLEND DOOR SHORTED TO BATTERY 47 A/C CONTROL - A/C SWITCH FAILURE 48 A/C CONTROL MODE DOOR INPUT SHORTED TO GROUND 49 A/C CONTROL MODE DOOR INPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY 50 A/C CONTROL ELECTRIC BACKLITE (EBL) SWITCH FAILURE Glenn, Thanks. I've saved the info you supplied for future reference. By the way, I do not own a scan tool and have never had this vehicle to the dealer for any service. I did just replace the battery (it was 6 years old) and had the old one out for ten or more minutes before getting the new one installed, and this had no affect on the situation. So I've got two things to check: 1) A/C drain and 2) recirculation door. As to there being moisture in the passenger compartment, I do have the heavy floor mats in there that catch the snow and water and they do retain some moisture, but I have these in other Chrysler vehicles and used similar models in my previous car, which was a 1996 LH and had no problems. I've got a couple things to look at when the weather improves. If that does not work then it will go to the dealer to be scanned! Thanks to all for the replies. Bob >> > ...It wouldn't hurt to do a recalibration on the system. >> > With the vehicle at room temperature (Garage) 10°-27° C. (50° to 80° [quoted text clipped - 68 lines] > 49 A/C CONTROL MODE DOOR INPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY > 50 A/C CONTROL ELECTRIC BACKLITE (EBL) SWITCH FAILURE > I have a 2001 2.7L Dodge Intrepid SE (base model w/69K miles) that has been > very reliable and served me well, but I am experiencing a "problem" and [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Bob Check the condensate drain. If the water cant get out after its been collected, it will create the condition you describe. Also check that you have the Fresh air setting on. If you have it on recirculate this will cause your windows to fog up. As mentioned previously, I have the base (no frills) SE model. The recirculate setting on the control knob is only available at the two top most positions (when using the dashboard vents), which I never use in the winter (only use the bottom tow settings - windshield defrost and floor heat in winter). But, as Glenn pointed out, it may not be working properly and in fact be stuck in the recirculate position ... so must be examined to eliminate that possibility. Thanks. PS I used to have the auto climate control system on my previous vehicle, a 1996 Eagle Vision TSI. That system always worked flawlessly... It certainly outperformed this system on the 2001 Intrepid SE and also the one in my 1999 Town & Country Limited van too! Bob > Also check that you have the Fresh air setting on. If you have it on > recirculate this will cause your windows to fog up. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption > =---- When you replaced the battery....did you replace it outside the calibration window of 50-80 degrees? or did you do it outside in the cold weather? which would mean it was not calibrated correctly. Did this problem occur after the battery was replaced or was it possibly caused by a faulty battery? Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech -- Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/ More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html I replaced the battery in November in Chicago. It might have been colder than 50 degrees ... I just do not remember back that far. :) The car did definitely behave badly last winter too, and the original battery was 6 years old when replaced, but was still going strong! I never suspected this could have been the problem. In any event, I'll need to wait for warmer weather to do it again. Thanks again. Bob > When you replaced the battery....did you replace it outside the > calibration [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/ > More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html > I replaced the battery in November in Chicago. It might have been colder > than 50 degrees ... I just do not remember back that far. :) The car did > definitely behave badly last winter too, and the original battery was 6 > years old when replaced, but was still going strong! I never suspected this > could have been the problem. In any event, I'll need to wait for warmer > weather to do it again. Thanks again. two things you can do rather cheaply; 1) Measure the vent temperature (center dash vent), temp dial on hottest, blower on second from highest setting. Should be around 150* or higher. 2) With the blower running turn the mode dial to MAX AC, if the sound of the blower changes (gets louder) the recirc door is working. I do have the HVAC thermometer for this purpose and will measure the exhaust when the engine is warm. I do not think it is this ... but the recirculation door has me wondering. Will report results later. Thanks again to all for all the ideas. Bob >> I replaced the battery in November in Chicago. It might have been colder >> than 50 degrees ... I just do not remember back that far. :) The car [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > sound of the blower changes (gets louder) the recirc door is > working. you might look at the floor mates for the moisture source try drivng with the windows cracked and see if that helps remove the fog the ac system works when the defrost is on to dehumidify the air in the car and there is a good chance your ac is inop from a failed evap.coil does the ac compressor cycle?? when turned on? > I have a 2001 2.7L Dodge Intrepid SE (base model w/69K miles) that has been > very reliable and served me well, but I am experiencing a "problem" and [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Bob Aarcuda, Glenn, Philthy, I did the simple dash vent temperature measurement and wanted to post the results. The outside ambient air temperature this morning on the drive to work was 20 degrees F and when I arrived at work and with the engine and compartment fully warmed, the exhaust air temperature got up to 152 degrees F using a HVAC probe type thermometer inserted about 5" into the dashboard vane and the blower on medium speed setting. I also attempted to actuate the A/C and listened for the air compressor to cycle on, but it did not come on, but I suspect this is because the outside temperature is below the low temp cutout limit. (The A/C worked fine over the Summer and Fall.) Lastly, I tried to see if there was any noticeable difference in the exhausted air speed or the sound when I had the blower on the highest setting and moved the control knob between the standard dash setting and the "recirculated dash" setting, but on both settings I could not tell any difference. This has me thinking that this may be the most fruitful theory to explore further at this time. Perhaps this is a calibration issue resulting from the battery replacement at a temperature below 50 degrees F as Glenn has suggested? Glenn, would this re-calibration procedure (waiting till temperature is above 50 degrees F, then removing the battery cable, waiting 10 minutes, reconnecting, and then running the vehicle for 10 minutes at idle) impact the recirculation door setting or is there some other thing you suggest that I can check? In closing, I was also asked by Philthy to do one additional test and that was to crack open the windows while they were fogging. I made a 40 mile drive last night and tried this, but at 70+ MPH, all this seemed to do was cool down the car and cause the side windows to freeze up sooner. By the way, it was clear that even with the heat control at maximum setting, blower on full at highest speed, and with the full defroster setting, the faster I drove the worse the problem became. This tells me that the wind speed increases the cooling on the windshield and side windows, and that the humidity is probably never getting exhausted from the cabin, so just saturates and constantly re-condenses on the cold windows. In worst case, it actually then freezes solid making visibility impossible. I finally found that barely popping open my moon roof to allow the hot air to vent made the cabin temp more tolerable and maybe even helped a little with getting some of the trapped moisture out of the car. Thanks again to everyone for the great troubleshooting tips, at this point I am optimistic that this is the cause. Thanks also in advance for any additional pointers on how to troubleshoot the recirculation door on this base model 2.7L 2001 Intrepid SE. Bob > you might look at the floor mates for the moisture source try drivng with > the [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] >> >> Bob > Aarcuda, > Glenn, [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > F using a HVAC probe type thermometer inserted about 5" into the dashboard > vane and the blower on medium speed setting. I dont think it is a heat thing, something is not pulling out the moisture or keeping it inside the vehicle > I also attempted to actuate the A/C and listened for the air compressor to > cycle on, but it did not come on, but I suspect this is because the outside > temperature is below the low temp cutout limit. (The A/C worked fine over > the Summer and Fall.) Instead of listening, pop the hood and see if the compressor kicks on. And just because it comes on does not mean it has a good charge. > Lastly, I tried to see if there was any noticeable difference in the > exhausted air speed or the sound when I had the blower on the highest > setting and moved the control knob between the standard dash setting and the > "recirculated dash" setting, but on both settings I could not tell any > difference. This has me thinking that this may be the most fruitful theory > to explore further at this time. You should be able to tell. A noticeable differecne will occur when allowing recirc on and off. Possibly a door or motor problem. Scann tool may be needed > Perhaps this is a calibration issue resulting from the battery replacement > at a temperature below 50 degrees F as Glenn has suggested? Glenn, would > this re-calibration procedure (waiting till temperature is above 50 degrees > F, then removing the battery cable, waiting 10 minutes, reconnecting, and > then running the vehicle for 10 minutes at idle) impact the recirculation > door setting or is there some other thing you suggest that I can check? It is a calibration test of the doors. Suggest Scan tool connection > In closing, I was also asked by Philthy to do one additional test and that > was to crack open the windows while they were fogging. I made a 40 mile [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > made the cabin temp more tolerable and maybe even helped a little with > getting some of the trapped moisture out of the car. My 2 cents worth, you have a leak in the system and this is not allowing the moisture to be removed from the car or the recirc door is inop. Your next step would be scan tool/ A/C manifold gauge connected to verify properly charged a/c system > Thanks again to everyone for the great troubleshooting tips, at this point I > am optimistic that this is the cause. Thanks also in advance for any [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > >> > >> Bob Glenn, After getting back home from work tonight I popped the hood and re-ran the same test. The control was in the defrost position and the blower was on full and I suspect that the outside temperature was in the mid-30's F. The A/C compressor came on, followed very shortly thereafter by the cooling fan. After a short interval the compressor cycled off and then on again every few seconds. Even in the warm engine compartment, the return line to the compressor got cold to the touch quickly so I believe the system was operating as expected so did not put the A/C gauges on to measure the H and L side pressures. (BTW, having never measured at this temperature, I would not have been sure how to interpret the numbers anyway since they would be radically different from what I've seen at 80 degrees F or so.) At this point, I still can't hear any change when I move between dashboard regular and recirculating positions, so believe that the recirculation door is not working properly. At this point I will wait for better weather and see if I can look at this assembly a bit closer ... if not, then it goes to the dealer for repair. Thanks to everyone for their contributions to this thread. Bob > Instead of listening, pop the hood and see if the compressor kicks on. And > just because it comes on does not mean it has a good charge. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > recirc on and off. Possibly a door or motor problem. Scann tool may be > needed > Glenn, > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > recirc on and off. Possibly a door or motor problem. Scann tool may be > > needed See if you can put the a/c control head into a self diagnostic mode. The engine must be running with vehicle not moving. The Fan Speed set to any speed except OFF. The Temperature Knob in full cold. The mode knob must be placed in defrost position The A/C button can be ON or OFF. Press and hold the EBL button until the Mechanical Instrument Cluster Odometer display indicates an "AC00". The body control module will chime once and the MTC A/C button LED will begin blinking. Release the EBL button and wait until the MTC A/C button LED stops blinking. The fault codes related to the MTC head and the climate control unit will appear on the odometer display in numerical form after the letters "AC". The diagnostic trouble codes are stored in the BCM and can range between 23 and 51. The odometer display will return to normal operation if no trouble codes are found. If a problem is found, then the odometer will display the letters "A/C" followed by the trouble code number. The odometer display can only show one diagnostic trouble code at a time. more than one diagnostic trouble code could be in the memory. To scroll through any additional diagnostic trouble codes, press the A/C button on the MTC head. The BCM will beep each time the A/C button is pushed. Continue pushing the A/C button and recording the trouble code numbers until the odometer returns to normal operation (note the letters AC will disappear). Glenn, I did exactly as you described and just as you said, the chime sounded, the AC button started flashing and the odometer area on the dash display went to "AC00". The system then went through some motions and I could hear the exhaust switching through the different vents. Within a minute or two the "show" was all over, the "AC00" disappeared and the odometer mileage reappeared. (There were no trouble codes displayed.) I was not sure if I happened to miss a trouble code, so then re-ran the diagnostic a second time, this time watching the display, but again, no codes were displayed and it went directly back to the vehicle mileage. Afterward, I re-checked to see if the blower speed and airflow changed when I toggled between dash only and the recirculate function, but again, there was no noticeable difference to my ears. Does this procedure I just performed supercede the one you described previously? Did this diagnostic perform the calibration that I should have done after removing/replacing the battery in November or do I need to do that when the weather warms? I will see tomorrow morning if there is any change on my drive to work. Thanks again for all you have done to assist me with this. I really do appreciate the effort. Bob PS Please say a prayer for the Northern Illinois University families (my middle son who will be getting the Intrepid is currently in his 3rd year there) that have been affected by the horrific tragedy that took place on campus this afternoon. > See if you can put the a/c control head into a self diagnostic mode. > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > the trouble code numbers until the odometer returns to normal operation > (note the letters AC will disappear). What you did was a self test on the system. The only thing I can say now is to have the system scanned to see what is going on since no fault codes were found. I dont think a recalibration will do anything, you can try!! I hope all is ok with your son Glenn -- Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/ More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html Thanks again. My son was not anywhere near Cole Hall when this occurred, but knows others who were nearby. Bob > What you did was a self test on the system. The only thing I can say now > is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.makers.chrysler/ > More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html |
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