> Often the resistor pak going out is an indication of the blower motor
> starting to pull too much current due to age/wear. If you replace the
> resistor pak, and it blows again in a matter of weeks or a few months,
> next time, replace the blower motor *and* the replacement resistor pak
> so the third resistor pak doesn't burn up too.
Or better yet just run it on #2 until you burn that setting up, then #3
until you burn that setting up, then #4 until the inline fuse to the blower
motor blows, then replace the blower motor and resistor pak.
Does my car electrical system really care that the blower motor is
now drawing 12 amps instead of 8? Oh golly, that's 0.000001 mpg
loss, I better drop $80 into a new blower motor!!! ;-)
Ted
Bob AZ - 17 Jul 2008 02:28 GMT
> Does my car electrical system really care that the blower motor is
> now drawing 12 amps instead of 8? �Oh golly, that's 0.000001 mpg
> loss, I better drop $80 into a new blower motor!!! ;-)
Ted et al.
Or better yet just remove the blower motor, disassemble, relube and
clean, assemble and onward!
I had my 72 Dodge PU for so long and so many miles I did the blower
motor twice.
Bob AZ
Bill Putney - 17 Jul 2008 11:07 GMT
Bob AZ wrote:
>> Does my car electrical system really care that the blower motor is
>> now drawing 12 amps instead of 8? �Oh golly, that's 0.000001 mpg
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Bob AZ
Usually assemblies like that are not made too easily "disassembleable"
these days. But the bearings could be lubed (just don't use anything
with silicone in it - silicone is death to brushes if it should get into
them) which will help if the bearings getting tight are the problem -
won't help if the problem is brush contamination.
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')