 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / April 2005medium and high speeds violent shaking 1979 dodge D20 low miles
Hi all, I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles When I first got this truck, it had this problem, but I didn't notice it until I got out on the freeway. It eventually got worse, its almost undrivable. It is hard to identify where the shaking is coming from. It seemed at first like it was the front, then I thought it had to have been the rear, now I've replaced the rear bearings and spun up the rear wheels at pretty high speed without any shaking I am fairly convinced that the problem has to be from the front. If the problem is really from the rear, then it would be due to an out-of-round tire. While watching the rear tires rotating they look as round as can be. At low speeds, below 15 Mph, the whole vehicle seems to shimmy slowly both the front and back. At high and moderate speeds there's a violent shaking that seems to shake the front end more than the back. There is a pulsating underneath the floorboards, the bench seat shakes as well on both sides. It doesn't matter if its in gear or in neutral, the noise and shaking doesn't change. Its definitely not related to engine speed. In an attempt to fix the problem, I replaced the rear bearings, while I was at it I also replaced the brake cylinders as they weren't working. This is a spicer 60 full-floating rear axle type rear-end. When I took apart the rear drums, grease was splattered all around the insides also made it difficult braking. After taking a test drive after working on the rear yesterday, it seemed to be not as bad, but today the shaking is just as bad as it had always been. In order to attempt to find the source of the shaking, I took the drive shaft and shook it up and down, front and back, couldn't find anything obvious. I spun the rear wheels and no strange sounds coming from the u-joints or anything. Where is this shaking coming from? My next guess is to rotate the tires to see if the problem is the front tires. Next replace the front bearings and check the front calipers and discs. If I were to guess, at this point I would guess the front discs are bent, but couldn't this also be a misaligned front bearing? As I have limited time and money I hope someone here can help me identify what's going on. - Kirk Try jacking up the front of the truck, obviously, place it on jack stands for safety. With the steering column locked, grab the tire at the top and bottom, and wiggle. There should be little to no play. Grab the tire at the left and right, and wiggle. There should be little to no play. Up and down play means your wheel bearings are loose/out. Left and right usually means ball joints. Hope this helps, please come back with your findings so we can help you get this figured out. Carl > Hi all, > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > - Kirk Bent front discs would be felt worse (and throught the steering whell) when braking. The drive shaft may be out of balance - that would show up only at highway speeds. Or maybe a bad u-joint that would be found by a clunk shifting drive to reverse with the brakes on. check for bent rim (not likely) or a broken cord in the tire(s). Do these before getting into expensive or labor intensive parts. > Hi all, > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > - Kirk > Bent front discs would be felt worse (and throught the steering whell) when > braking. > > The drive shaft may be out of balance - that would show up only at highway > speeds. My bet would be the drive shaft. I had something similar happen to an 81 Dodge van and that was my problem. DDDD > Or maybe a bad u-joint that would be found by a clunk shifting drive to > reverse with the brakes on. [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > > > - Kirk I replaced the U-Joints on the drive shaft. This is a two U-Joint, single segment type drive shaft. The clanking went away when I put it in drive, but... The shaking is still there. I had someone in the car with me last night (11:30PM) during the test drive. The shaking didn't change one bit. It seems to come more from the right than the left, and more from the front than the back. Hmmm... What could this mean? I worked on the rear of the truck and driveshaft for no reason? The shaking is even pronounced at very low speeds i.e. 1.5 to 5 MPH. Its as if I'm slowly driving over a washboard dirt road on that corner of the car even when I'm on perfectly flat straight road. Its still hard to identify even at that speed since the whole truck twists and vibrates due to the problem. This sounds very much like a stupid bulge in the tire! If I could kick myself I'd beat myself to a bloody pulp. Its crazy that its taken 9 months to isolate this problem. Its possible that the other stuff was bad too and compounding it, but the major problem is simply the tire. I'll get back when I replace it with the spare to verify. > Bent front discs would be felt worse (and throught the steering whell) when > braking. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles > > ... Did you perform the checks I reccomended? Carl > I replaced the U-Joints on the drive shaft. This is a two U-Joint, single > segment type drive shaft. The clanking went away when I put it in drive, [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles > > > ... I took the tire off last night and replaced it with a full size spare. I checked for play in the knuckle when replacing the tire, it was very solid (amazing after that kind of abuse). From the time that this pounding started until now, the tire turned into a 5000 piece puzzle. The treads aren't even straight. There's a crack on the inside of the tire about 1/2 from the rim that goes all the way around the tire. The tire isn't even close to being round. After taking it off, I gave it a push along the driveway. The treads fluctuate right to left by about an inch. There is some kind of wire mesh sticking out the side. I'm surprised I've been able to drive on it this long, its a wonder I haven't had a blowout. I suppose if I were one of those ditzes that doesn't pay any attention to sounds or movement from their car I would have ended up with a blowout. Even though the spare is out of balance (so is the left front tire) comparatively, the truck rides like a dream. I'll have to replace some tires and move on from there. 16.5 inch truck tires aren't cheap, I'd almost rather replace a steering knuckle or something else cheap. Last quote I found it was upwards of $250 for two tires mounted and balanced. > Did you perform the checks I reccomended? > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > > > > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles > > > > ... > Last quote I found it was upwards > of $250 for two tires mounted and balanced. That sounds pretty cheap. I wanted E load rated 10 ply 16" tires for my truck and they were about $145 each mounted and balanced. C rated tires were closer to the price you paid. Depends on the brand but I prefer Pirelli's or Michelins myself. Well that was it, both front tires were falling apart. I replaced them and it rides like it is supposed to. The rear tires are newer than the fronts were. I picked up a used pair for $40. I was getting anywhere from $280 to $330 to replace the front tires. 16.5" rims are hard to fit. Someone suggested going to 15" rims, I don't like the idea of that. Maybe if I found a set of 17" rims for a good price I'd go with them. I think I'm going to buy any future tires from an online store and have them put on for $15 when I replace all four. Now I replaced my U-Joints, and when I stop the truck oscillates as I slow down. From what I remember reading on the subject, you will notice a lobeing coming from the back if your U-Joints need replacing. Since I just replaced them, I think maybe I put them in too tight. I used a C-Clamp to put them in and out, I had to push on the bearing cups pretty hard to get the C-Clips on both bearing cups. Before putting the driveshaft back in, I played around a little with the joints and they seemed stiff. Should I back the cups out a little to make them move more freely? - Kirk > I took the tire off last night and replaced it with a full size spare. I > checked for play in the knuckle when replacing the tire, it was very solid [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > steering knuckle or something else cheap. Last quote I found it was upwards > of $250 for two tires mounted and balanced. > > > > The drive shaft may be out of balance - that would show up only at > > highway [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > > > > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles > > > > > ... Nope that wasn't completely it! It rides great for about 2 miles at 60MPH. Then the shaking comes back. Its definitely from the back this time. Obviously the front tires were causing most of the shaking, but now the lobeing-dragging-hammering starts up after driving a while. I spoke with Paul Brand yesterday ( A Local on-air automotive guru ), he said to check the temperature of my differential with the back of my hand after the noise and shaking starts up. He was right. Its too hot to hold on to for more than 5 seconds. My Dana 60 spicer full-floating rear end needs a rebuild. Maybe I should have been concerned when black runny oil spilled out through the axel shaft from the differential when I pulled out the axel. I have been finding rebuild kits on eBay for about $80. Should I purchase the parts individually from my local parts store, or is $80 a good price for these parts? - Kirk > Well that was it, both front tires were falling apart. I replaced them and > it rides like it is supposed to. The rear tires are newer than the fronts [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > > > > > > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles > > > > > > ... Try this, next time you do u-joints, use a socket and put the driveshaft in a vice. You take less chance of damaging them when done this way, Take your c-clips out of the groove, fit the socket to the hole the bearing cup fits and use the socket to drive the joint out, Having a press would make this easier but a vice works well. Also, the side you're hammering against would need to be protected, a block of wood will work. Installing the new joint, Get that block of wood, tap the bearing cups lightly, do it wrong and you'll knock the needle bearings loose and have to do it all over. You'll know if it's wrong, the joint will be hard to move by hand.. And yes, a c-clamp will still work if you want to skip some of that, you only have to get the bearing cups in so the clips will go in. By the way, I've turned NAPA u-joints to powder within 3 months and I know I did it right. Replaced with Spicer like I wanted in the first place... NO PROBLEM. I have a '74 D100 with a 318. I've rebuilt the truck twice now..cab, bed, fenders, Frame and running gear are original though along with the hood. Total mileage on it.. No exact figure but it's up around 300k. Never replaced axle bearings in the rear...absolute joy to drive. > Well that was it, both front tires were falling apart. I replaced > them and it rides like it is supposed to. The rear tires are newer [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > joints and they seemed stiff. Should I back the cups out a little to > make them move more freely? Kinda sounda like 1 bias ply tire and 3 radials. > I replaced the U-Joints on the drive shaft. This is a two U-Joint, single > segment type drive shaft. The clanking went away when I put it in drive, [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > is simply the tire. I'll get back when I replace it with the spare to > verify. I would suspect a bent drive-line before I looked any further. I ditched a car once and it had the same symptoms when I got it pulled out. But it was bent enough that it was obvious when you watched the car roll down the street. Yours may not be noticeable just by looking at it, but it would not take much to throw it out of balance and cause the symptoms you wrote of.  SignatureFrom The Desk Of: Jesse A. Harrington > Hi all, > I have a 1979 2WD dodge D20 (aka D200) /w 360 V8 with 70k miles [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > - Kirk |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.