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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / November 2004rear drum on dakota
i have stupidly stripped the lug nut on the rear tire of my 99 dakota. i am going to drill out the stud. when removing the drum do the studs stay on the wheel axis or come off with the drum? what is the proper troque for the nuts, i'm not using the impact gun anymore to put these nuts on ( not tight anyway). kilmister Not really sure but shouldn't you be able to take a hammer and pound the stripped stud out and just install a new one??? >i have stupidly stripped the lug nut on the rear tire of my 99 dakota. i >am [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > kilmister hammering it out would be nice but the nut is on it still and is stripped. so i have to drill far enough to get the nut off then hammer it out. > Not really sure but shouldn't you be able to take a hammer and pound the > stripped stud out and just install a new one??? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > > > kilmister > going to drill out the stud. when removing the drum do the studs stay on > the wheel axis or come off with the drum? The studs stay on the axle flange. You don't have to drill it -the stud can be pressed out with either a stud removal tool, or an improvised stud removal tool (hammer). Now... you MAY be able to remove the stud and install a new one without removing the axle (might have to remove the brake shoes), or you may have to remove the axle. I can't tell you for sure. If you have to remove the axle, it's easy to do, but messy. Remove the diff cover (have a pan to catch the oil), rotate the differential so you can remove the cross-shaft retaining pin (little 5/16" bolt on the right-side of the diff), then remove the cross-shaft (3/4" or so pin that goes through the center of the diff). Next, push the axle shaft IN slightly, and remove the C-clip from the axle (inside the differential - this is why you have to remove the cross-shaft). Now you can carefully slide the axle out of the housing, and fix the stud. When you put the axle back in, be careful not to damage the seal (on the outer end of the axle tube). Push the axle in all the way, put the C-clip back in the groove, and pull the axle out (it should move about 1/2" or so) to seat the C-clip. Then re-install the cross-shaft, re-install the retaining pin, clean off the old silicone off the diff housing and cover, re-apply a bead of silicone to the cover, re-install the cover, and re-fill with gear oil. Oh, and as far as installing the new stud, whether you can do it with the axle installed or not, slip the stud into the hole, stack a few washers over the stud, and install the lug nut. Tighten the lugnut down by hand until the ridges on the shoulder of the stud grab (and the stud no longer wants to turn as you tighten the lugnut), then tighten the lug nut down all the way until the stud is fully seated. An impact gun is handy for this task. > what is the proper troque for the nuts, Check the owner's manual, but I believe it's 95ft.lbs. > i'm not using the impact gun anymore to put these nuts on ( not tight > anyway). Unless you were using the impact gun to start the lugnuts (thereby cross-threading them), or unless you have an exceedingly powerful impact gun (a 3/4" or 1" gun, with a 175psi air supply to run it), it's doubtful that the use of the impact gun caused the stud to strip. Regardless, it's always a good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts (says the guy who always tightens his with his impact gun... ah well :) Regardless, it's always > a good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts (says the > guy who always tightens his with his impact gun... ah well :) Hey Tom, torque sticks work wonders...... I know some guys in here don't like them but I think they work great.. Denny Ok, I gotta ask and demonstrate a lack of knowledge, but how the heck do those things work? Budd > Regardless, it's always > > a good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts (says the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Denny > Ok, I gotta ask and demonstrate a lack of knowledge, but how the heck do > those things work? They're designed to "twist" at a certain torque (like a torsion bar). An impact gun only rotates a fastener a few degrees per impact. When the hammer in the impact wrench strikes, it twists up the torque stick, and before the next blow is delivered, the torque stick unwinds - ready to be "wound up" again on the next strike. AHA!!! I knew there had to be evil magic afoot!!! <LOL> Thanks, Tom. I probably should have guessed how they worked, but I never could figure it out . . . fer some dumb reason. Budd > > Ok, I gotta ask and demonstrate a lack of knowledge, but how the heck do > > those things work? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > before the next blow is delivered, the torque stick unwinds - ready to be > "wound up" again on the next strike. I've had no difficulties removing a stripped stud on the rear wheel of a '94 Dakota. I hammered out the old one, inserted the new stud, and used some "oversized" nuts as spacers so I could fully draw it in before remounting the wheel. Bruce thanks for the help guys, we'll see how far i get tomorrow. > I've had no difficulties removing a stripped stud on the rear wheel of a '94 > Dakota. I hammered out the old one, inserted the new stud, and used some > "oversized" nuts as spacers so I could fully draw it in before remounting > the wheel. > > Bruce I used to own a buick. those studs would strip out if you looked at them crosseyed... >> i'm not using the impact gun anymore to put these nuts on ( not tight >> anyway). [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >a good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts (says the guy >who always tightens his with his impact gun... ah well :) |
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