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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / November 20044x4 disengaging
Hi all. I own a dodge ram and it is always kick out of 4x4 when it's cold. In the summer time it's ok.I've change the transfer case,tried a different actuator,tried a different vacuum ball,vacuum switch on the transfer case was change also.I tested the vacuum on the actuator it does not seem to leak. By the way if I unlock the hubs it will not disengage in the dash. I have been working on this problem for a while now but I cant seem to figure it out. help would be good. thank you in advance mike. > By the way if I unlock the hubs it will not disengage in the dash. You're going to have to try explaining that one again - that made no sense to me... and it would help to know the year of your truck. My first guess, the above confusion aside, is that you do indeed have a vacuum leak somewhere, exacerbated enough by the cold weather to where it creates this problem. Does your heat, if set to blow out the dash vents, switch to the defrost vents under hard acceleration? If so, that's a sure sign of a more centralized vacuum leak (ie. upstream from the check valve [if present] on the line going to the transfer case). If it's important to have a reliable 4WD operation (and most of the time, it is), I'd replace the vacuum system in favor of a mechanical control, like the 4x4 Posi-Lok system. It's easy to install, and works well. You can find it at various places on-line, or at JC Whitney. it's a 1989 1/2 ton When I lock my front end and I engage it in 4X the dash light will go on and off when I start driving. But only after I hit about 30 km/hr. It will re-engage but you hear a knocking noise. But if I unlock my front hubs the light will not go off in the dash and I can go as fast as the cops will let me go and there is no noise coming from the front. I was talking to someone else and would it be possible that I would have water in my lines? Hope this helps you answer my question if you need anything else just let me know. Thanks alot Mike >> By the way if I unlock the hubs it will not disengage in the dash. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > like the 4x4 Posi-Lok system. It's easy to install, and works well. You > can find it at various places on-line, or at JC Whitney. > it's a 1989 1/2 ton Okay... gotta plead ignorance on this one - I don't know how the 4x4 system on an '89 works. I do find it strange that you have both manual hubs AND an axle disconnect... usually it's one or the other. It doesn't have auto locking hubs. It is warn locking hubs. But there is a vacuum actuator on the front dif, which slides a collar over top of the two shafts to connect them together. The shift fork is being forced out of place I think that's why my lights is going off in the dash.And by the way my heater system is all with cables. No vacuum included. By the way I have 22 psi at the dome of the engine where the vacuum line exits. Hope you can help me with this. Thank You Mike >> it's a 1989 1/2 ton > > Okay... gotta plead ignorance on this one - I don't know how the 4x4 > system on an '89 works. I do find it strange that you have both manual > hubs AND an axle disconnect... usually it's one or the other. > It doesn't have auto locking hubs. It is warn locking hubs. I understand that (never said auto-locking hubs... I said manual). It's just that with the ability to lock/unlock the hubs, a Central Axle Disconnect isn't needed, and from what I've read, wasn't available in '89. I'm guessing a previous owner swapped in a newer front axle (from a '94+ truck), and cobbled the CAD system together becuase he didn't like getting out and locking the hubs manually. > shafts to connect them together. The shift fork is being forced out of > place I think that's why my lights is going off in the dash. Most likely. Since you're stuck with a CAD-equipped front axle, I'd still just remove the entire CAD system and replace it with a Posi-Lok. Simple, and reliable. Hi Tom I took the actuator out and jammed it in 4x position so the actuator does not move. It is not kicking out no more but the light is always on. My buddy has the same truck and his does the same thing when it's cold.I purchase this truck from a older fella back in 92 or 93 and I don't think he ever change anything.I really appreciate your help I'm willing to try anything at this point. Thank You Mike >> It doesn't have auto locking hubs. It is warn locking hubs. > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > just remove the entire CAD system and replace it with a Posi-Lok. Simple, > and reliable. > buddy has the same truck and his does the same thing when it's cold.I > purchase this truck from a older fella back in 92 or 93 and I don't think > he Well, like I said, I've got no first-hand experience with the pre-'94 trucks... maybe they did come with a CAD - maybe the PO added the manual hubs - maybe they came from the factory with both.... it's of no consequence, because you're stuck with it no matter what :) Any of the CAD-type systems, whether vacuum-actuated, or pressure-actuated (in the case of the late '80s-early '90s GM axles... they used an electrical heating element to heat up a gas to move the shift fork. It sometimes took upwards of a minute to activate in really cold temperatures) are prone to failure, especially as they age. Again, if it were me, I'd ditch the vacuum-actuated system and replace it with a mechanical, cable-actuated device. Whitey doesn't specifically list an '89-'93 application for their Posi-Lok, but I bet if you call them, they could help you out. The kits go for about $150, and install very easily. And yes, your 4WD indicator light will be on all the time, regardless of the position of the transfer case, because the switch for this is on the CAD, which you've locked in the engaged position. If the light bothers you, just disconnect the wiring from the CAD (there should be a connector you can disconnect). Tie the wire up out of the way, and coat the connections with di-electric grease, then tape them up (so that if/when you do install a manual system, you can re-use the connectors and restore functionality to your 4WD indicator light). Your truck will operate fine the way it is... if you don't need, or suspect that you will need, 4WD, unlock the hubs to gain a bit better fuel economy. With the hubs locked, your front differential and front driveshaft will be turning all the time. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, as it keeps everything lubricated. Wear on the components is minimal, because there's really no stress being placed on them (as opposed to being driven by the drivetrain). In fact, this is exactly how the current Ram's work - no hubs, no axle disconnect. Tom, My 67-88 Haynes Dodge truck manual doesn't cover his truck and none of the model years that it does cover have CAD. All were the good old locking hub / transfer case type systems. Budd > > buddy has the same truck and his does the same thing when it's cold.I > > purchase this truck from a older fella back in 92 or 93 and I don't think [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > drivetrain). In fact, this is exactly how the current Ram's work - no hubs, > no axle disconnect. Tom Thanks for all the expert advise you gave me.I will leave it like that for the winter.If I ever find the problem I will post it on here for everybody to see it. Thank You very much. Mike > Tom, > [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > hubs, >> no axle disconnect. |
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