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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / March 20051999 RAM 4x4 rear noise
She's got 108k on her. The noise starts low pitch with acceleration she gets much higher. I put her on stands to see where it is coming from. It is the rear end for sure, but which ever side i'm on, it sounds like the other. I got in the center and still had a hard time telling. Being this is my only vehicle, I was just going to swap out the rear end. Is there any other tests I may do that would point in a better direction. Any places in particular to get a rear other than a junk yard. How do I know what my factory rear end is? > She's got 108k on her. The noise starts low pitch with acceleration she gets > much higher. I put her on stands to see where it is coming from. It is the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > get a rear other than a junk yard. How do I know what my factory rear end > is? Why don't you just have yours rebuilt? It only takes 2-3 hours for a good shop to do it. A lot less time than swapping the entire rear, and you get all new parts.  Signature.boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project I don't have the money. They wanted 800 to 1000 to do it. > > She's got 108k on her. The noise starts low pitch with acceleration she gets > > much higher. I put her on stands to see where it is coming from. It is the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > time than swapping the entire rear, and you get all new > parts. Did you check your diff. oil level? That might be a good place to start. After that, break out the service manual. But swapping the rear end might not solve the problem, if it's *not* the problem. That I did. I put my finger in it and it was just a little shy. I filled it up and probably a 1/4 of a quart the fluid started to come out. It was/is full of shiney metal stuff. I then flooded it with the rest. There is metal in there for sure. I was told it's the bearings, the u-joints, the pinion or whatever the other are. My prob is this is the only vehicle I got. So, if its the bearings I can do it. If it's not, I don't think I can in a weekend. I can't afford to do exploritory surgery. I am dearly affraid what ever it is will not last two weekends. I turned the wheels and I hear it when I had it on jack stands. I just cant tell where the dam noise is. I was quoted from two places 900 to 1000 to rebuild. I can get a used for 400 locally. Im using it up (I feel like its my gas tank that's now on the 1/8 ding ding)and being an only vehicle and single parent, im scared to wait much longer or lose a weekend. Any ideas a cheaper route to get one? I found a cool web page that has phone support if you buy the parts from them to rebuild. I just don't think I have the time. Except to shot gun the shabang. I go to work and take care of my three year old after so I cant even open the pumpkin during the week to check it out. > Did you check your diff. oil level? That might be a good place to > start. After that, break out the service manual. But swapping the rear > end might not solve the problem, if it's *not* the problem. > That I did. I put my finger in it and it was just a little shy. I filled it > up and probably a 1/4 of a quart the fluid started to come out. It was/is [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > work and take care of my three year old after so I cant even open the > pumpkin during the week to check it out. Pull the cover off the diff and have a close look. If you have metal in there, like you said, you've got troubles. I had a pinion gear go bad in a Ford 3/4 ton and I had "chunks" of metal in the diff housing. 1/2 of the pinion gear was shot. But it was just a work vehicle and I cleaned out the metal and reinstalled it and it lasted another six months, with no further troubles, before I got rid of the truck. Go with the used one for now, for cost sake. But ask for a guarantee on it. The wreckers should be able to find you a good used one for about the price you mentioned, or even cheaper. Inspect it closely before you take it home. Any signs of visual wear, stay away from it. But I think you should be OK, based on my own past experience in dealing with most auto wreckers in my area, at least. You may want to take it in to your dealer and have them do the installation. What the book time on that job, 2.5 hours tops? Plus gaskets, etc... BTW, you may get lucky too when/if you do your inspection. On the Ford I mentioned, the crown gear survived with no damage. If that's the case with yours too, then you might just be able to get away with replacing the pinion gear and be done with. All that happened with mine is for some reason the nut on the input shaft came loose and the seal was also shot. That caused the rear end to "howl" and caused premature failure of the pinion gear. I put a "speedy sleeve" on the input shaft and a new seal and away I went. Either way, I think your going to be fine. If you do the tear down and replacement, get a service manual for sure. A "Haynes" manual is about $20.00. No biggy. Best of luck! :-) >> Did you check your diff. oil level? That might be a good place to >> start. After that, break out the service manual. But swapping the rear >> end might not solve the problem, if it's *not* the problem. I had a pinion bearing go out on my 99. $800 to repair. Steve > She's got 108k on her. The noise starts low pitch with acceleration she > gets [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > get a rear other than a junk yard. How do I know what my factory rear end > is? |
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