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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / March 2005

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'99 dak battery issue's ...

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Slick Willy - 11 Mar 2005 16:41 GMT
I have a '99 Dakota 3.9 sport with 5 speed trans.  103k on the clock and
running pretty good except them ball joints that suck...

Anyway, I have had the batter replaced (for free) 3 times since
purchasing the truck new in January of '99.  1st time was in Feb '00, I
was up in Canada and battery was completely dead when I woke up in the
AM.  Called CAA and they jumped me and I went to nearest dealership who
told me I had a bad battery.  They replaced it for free.  In December of
'02, I had same problem, and dealer where I purchased the truck said same
think, new battery.  Tech advised me that there was a batch of bad
batteries supplied to dealerships in NE and my battery was one of them.  
No problamo on my end.  I get a new battery and it doesn't cost me a
penny.  Forward to late winter '03.  Battery not dead, but doesn't sound
too good.  Takes a couple of turn over's before it will start and sounds
like its really straining.  I take to dealership and once again, they
replace the battery telling me that when they run an 'electronics' test
on the truck, everything is good except the battery.  Again, covered
under warranty so no cost to me except the test (cost me $30 which wasn't
too bad).  Fast forward to current day.  I am still having a problem with
starting.  The battery always has juice and truck starts every morning,
but when it starts, it sounds like its really straining.  I've also
noticed that there is some white/blue green fluffy build up on the
negative terminal.  I clean it up best I can, but within a week or so, it
comes back.  A buddy of mine works at a shop and he told me to come on
over after hours, and he can put clean the battery terminal's correctly
with some acid solution that will clean the terminal's up properly.  It
takes about 1 month, but the build up returns.  I'm stumped and not sure
what to do that this point.  Any ideas??

As a side note, there is a faint burning smell when I start my truck in
the extreme cold (less than 10 degrees F), when I exit the truck.  I tent
to start my truck and let it run for a few minutes before I leave for
work.  The smell is not as noticeable when the temps are higher, but it's
still there.

Thanks to all that reply.  I've found lots of good info in this NG.  Been
lurking for over a year, but don't recall ever seeing this specific
problem.

Signature

Regards,
Slick Willy

'73 CB 450
'95 XJ 600
'99 Dakota Sport
'03 FLSTF - parted ways in late July
'04 FLHRCI - Entering geezerdom' at a mere 32 ...

Remove the "BenDover" to reply

Carolina Watercraft Works, Inc. - 15 Mar 2005 22:02 GMT
Those wouldn't be Diehard batteries by chance would they?

Signature

_________________________
Laszlo Almasi
Carolina Watercraft Works, Inc.

Don't you hate it when money beats out love?

>I have a '99 Dakota 3.9 sport with 5 speed trans.  103k on the clock and
> running pretty good except them ball joints that suck...
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
> lurking for over a year, but don't recall ever seeing this specific
> problem.
Slick Willy - 16 Mar 2005 15:13 GMT
> Those wouldn't be Diehard batteries by chance would they?

Nope.  Just went out and looked, and it has a cover on it, so I can't tell
what it is.  I know it came from the dealer's, so whatever the dealer has
is what I got.  It's not a sealed battery as it has 2 caps that I've
removed to verify that it's now low on fluid.

Signature

Regards,
Slick Willy

'73 CB 450
'95 XJ 600
'03 FLSTF - parted ways in late July
'04 FLHRCI - Entering geezerdom' at a mere 32 ...

Remove the "BenDover" to reply

Carolina Watercraft Works, Inc. - 16 Mar 2005 15:19 GMT
I'd replace it with a sealed battery...other than a Diehard. My guess is
that the fluid evaporating is causing your terminals to corrode.

As for the slow turnover, I'd check all of your connections for either
corrosion or being loose.  Then proceed from there.  A loose connection
will cause the cable ends to heat up...which may be the cause of the odor
you described.

Signature

_________________________
Laszlo Almasi
Carolina Watercraft Works, Inc.

Don't you hate it when money beats out love?

>> Those wouldn't be Diehard batteries by chance would they?
>
> Nope.  Just went out and looked, and it has a cover on it, so I can't tell
> what it is.  I know it came from the dealer's, so whatever the dealer has
> is what I got.  It's not a sealed battery as it has 2 caps that I've
> removed to verify that it's now low on fluid.
Slick Willy - 16 Mar 2005 16:14 GMT
> I'd replace it with a sealed battery...other than a Diehard. My guess is
> that the fluid evaporating is causing your terminals to corrode.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> will cause the cable ends to heat up...which may be the cause of the odor
> you described.

Thanks for the info.  I did double check the connections from the starter
and everything looked good.  Will replace battery (again) and report back
what happens.

Signature

Regards,
Slick Willy

'73 CB 450
'95 XJ 600
'03 FLSTF - parted ways in late July
'04 FLHRCI - Entering geezerdom' at a mere 32 ...

Remove the "BenDover" to reply

Kurt - 17 Mar 2005 09:18 GMT
Sounds to me that your voltage regulator is over charging your battery, this
is why you are low on electrolyte.

>> I'd replace it with a sealed battery...other than a Diehard. My guess is
>> that the fluid evaporating is causing your terminals to corrode.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>and everything looked good.  Will replace battery (again) and report back
>what happens.

1997                  SFA 60920
1998,1999,2000,2001,2002,2003   AMA 602785
Due to E-Mail spamming bots my reply address is
incorrect. Add a "-" between mr and wizard
This is what we have to do to prevent "Spamming?"
Sucks doesn't it?
Slick Willy - 17 Mar 2005 16:18 GMT
> Sounds to me that your voltage regulator is over charging your
> battery, this is why you are low on electrolyte.

Is there a way to test that at my house, or is this a case where I have to
take it to a garage and have them run a test ?

Signature

Regards,
Slick Willy

'73 CB 450
'95 XJ 600
'03 FLSTF - parted ways in late July
'04 FLHRCI - Entering geezerdom' at a mere 32 ...

Remove the "BenDover" to reply

TBone - 17 Mar 2005 16:52 GMT
If you have a volt meter or multi-meter, you can test it yourself.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

> > Sounds to me that your voltage regulator is over charging your
> > battery, this is why you are low on electrolyte.
>
> Is there a way to test that at my house, or is this a case where I have to
> take it to a garage and have them run a test ?
Slick Willy - 17 Mar 2005 17:23 GMT
"TBone" <t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com> wrote in news:DKh_d.14351$nZ.1064170
@twister.southeast.rr.com:

> If you have a volt meter or multi-meter, you can test it yourself.

Cool.  I have the clymer manual, so I will look up how to test in there.

Signature

Regards,
Slick Willy

'73 CB 450
'95 XJ 600
'03 FLSTF - parted ways in late July
'04 FLHRCI - Entering geezerdom' at a mere 32 ...

Remove the "BenDover" to reply

Mac Dodge - 18 Mar 2005 18:41 GMT
Hey  TBone,  Bush kicked Kerry's a.s Nov 2nd.
ROTFLMAO!

> If you have a volt meter or multi-meter, you can test it yourself.
TBone - 18 Mar 2005 19:06 GMT
Yea, but the thing is that many didn't actually vote FOR Bush, just AGAINST
Kerry, how sad.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

> Hey  TBone,  Bush kicked Kerry's a.s Nov 2nd.
> ROTFLMAO!
>
> > If you have a volt meter or multi-meter, you can test it yourself.
Mac Dodge - 18 Mar 2005 20:31 GMT
Surrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr  TBone!   Spin it anyway you want.  That's
the hilarious thing about you Democreeps and also why you will
continue to lose more elections.  You can't accept the fact the
voters are voting *for* what the Republicans are and rejecting
the Michael Moore's, the Whoppie Goldbergs, gay marriage, and
the whole looney left agenda.  Even the Hildabeast has finally
understanding reality.  Why do think she is starting a move to
the right?   Hint:  She wants to be the next president and has started
to distance herself from Howard Dean and his wacko left wing
nut cases.
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

> Yea, but the thing is that many didn't actually vote FOR Bush, just
> AGAINST
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>
>> > If you have a volt meter or multi-meter, you can test it yourself.
Kurt - 19 Mar 2005 10:09 GMT
Well, maybe.

Do you have a meter that will read DC voltage?  If so, you can get a good
idea.

Here is one easy check you can do.

First read the voltage at the battery terminal posts when the ignition is
turned off, it should read around 12.3-12.7 volts DC  Then start the vehicle &
check the voltage, it should read around 12.8-13.6 volts DC

If it is reading in the 15-16 volt range your voltage regulator is cooking the
battery.

Now, to check & see if the voltage regulator is truly staying in the charge
mode too long, is not worth your time to monitor how long it is engaged versus
the true charge state of the battery & whether it (the battery) requires to be
charged at that time.  Leave that to a reputable repair shop, but they would
probably just change out the voltage regulator instead of wasting the time.

I hope that helps you out.

>> Sounds to me that your voltage regulator is over charging your
>> battery, this is why you are low on electrolyte.
>
>Is there a way to test that at my house, or is this a case where I have to
>take it to a garage and have them run a test ?

1997                  SFA 60920
1998,1999,2000,2001,2002,2003   AMA 602785
Due to E-Mail spamming bots my reply address is
incorrect. Add a "-" between mr and wizard
This is what we have to do to prevent "Spamming?"
Sucks doesn't it?
TBone - 19 Mar 2005 15:44 GMT
Most current DC products like to stay in the 14.5V range which I also
believe is a little to the high side but that is the way it is.  The
regulator is part of the PCM so just changing it out is not an option unless
you like to spend big $$$$.  The problem may be a combination of two things,
the excessive voltage common among DC products and an excessive current draw
when the vehicle is not running.  IF your meter can read current, check to
see how much the truck is drawing when not running (ignition off) and make
sure that it is how it is when you leave it.  If you are drawing more than
1/2 an amp, this is probably your real problem.  If you want to see the
voltage when driving, you can use the cigarette lighter socket as a voltage
source and plugs are available from radio shack for a few bucks to connect
your meter too.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

Well, maybe.

Do you have a meter that will read DC voltage?  If so, you can get a good
idea.

Here is one easy check you can do.

First read the voltage at the battery terminal posts when the ignition is
turned off, it should read around 12.3-12.7 volts DC  Then start the vehicle
&
check the voltage, it should read around 12.8-13.6 volts DC

If it is reading in the 15-16 volt range your voltage regulator is cooking
the
battery.

Now, to check & see if the voltage regulator is truly staying in the charge
mode too long, is not worth your time to monitor how long it is engaged
versus
the true charge state of the battery & whether it (the battery) requires to
be
charged at that time.  Leave that to a reputable repair shop, but they would
probably just change out the voltage regulator instead of wasting the time.

I hope that helps you out.

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 09:18:52 -0600, Slick Willy
<d_dumbassBenDover@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Kurt <mrwizard@comcast.net> wrote in
>news:28fi31d20jsvf3upuulubcorq5ek49i2a1@4ax.com:
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>Is there a way to test that at my house, or is this a case where I have to
>take it to a garage and have them run a test ?

1997                  SFA 60920
1998,1999,2000,2001,2002,2003   AMA 602785
Due to E-Mail spamming bots my reply address is
incorrect. Add a "-" between mr and wizard
This is what we have to do to prevent "Spamming?"
Sucks doesn't it?
Slick Willy - 21 Mar 2005 20:00 GMT
> Most current DC products like to stay in the 14.5V range which I also
> believe is a little to the high side but that is the way it is.  The
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> can use the cigarette lighter socket as a voltage source and plugs are
> available from radio shack for a few bucks to connect your meter too.

Just to follow-up, I did remove the caps from my battery this weeked and
the left side ( closest to the front of the truck ), was a little low.  
Little as in less than 2 baby eye dropper's worth accross the 4 cells.  I
removed the right side cap, but it was fine.  I topped the left side off
with distilled water.  I didn't run any further tests on it till I had
the truck running for an extended period of time.  My commute to work is
36 Miles each way, so when I get home tonight, I will check my voltage as
directed by Kurt and TBone, and report back tomorrow.

Thanks for the follow-up.

Signature

Regards,
Slick Willy

'73 CB 450
'95 XJ 600
'03 FLSTF - parted ways in late July
'04 FLHRCI - Entering geezerdom' at a mere 32 ...

Remove the "BenDover" to reply

 
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