I'm at my wits end, and I'm hoping someone here can point the way.
I bought a QuadCab Dakota in 2000. Haven't had much problem with it,
other than the PCM module having to be replaced in 2002. Been very
dependable.
But my heater core sprung a leak two winters ago, and I finally got
around to replacing it last fall. Note that everything was fine, except
for the heater. So I spend a weekend tearing the whole $*#! truck dash
out to get to the $100 heater core that could have easily been desined
to slip out through the engine compartment. But I'll leave that rant
for another thread, as I have another whole list of headaches.
When I got everything back together, the ABS and brake lights stayed on
constantly. I assumed something was unplugged, but I couldn't find any
problems. Brakes worked, so I drove it.
Now, the engine would die at stoplights. If I hit the gas as it dropped
through 600RPM, it would keep running with no problem. If I slowed very
gradually with it in gear, so that it tried to lug up to the stoplight,
it would keep running. But if I just pushed the clutch in at 1000RPM
and let it drop off, the engine would die every time. What's more, as I
passed through about 2400RPM, there was a loud 'roar' coming from the
engine compartment that would disappear at around 2800. To top it all
off, the spedometer wouldn't register speed until I hit about 35MPH.
Further investigation revealed that a small vacuum line coming from that
'dongle' hanging off the front of brake booster to the interior was
pinched. I had also twisted that 'dongle' while trying to remove the
vacuum line going to the manifold.
"AHA! I found the culprit," I says to myself. Either the pinched hose
or me twisting the dongle must have broken some sort of diaphram in the
brake booster, which let excess air into the intake manifold, causing an
overlean condition at the stoplight. This also sucked air through the
broken diaphram at a resonant frequency at 2400RPM, causing the 'roar'.
Didnt' explain the spedometer problem, but "baby steps", I say.
I spend $100 and an afternoon replacing the brake booster.
The roar is still there, and the engine still dies at stops. So I turn
to Google and search for a problem. Turns out there is a problem with a
$30 sensor on the rear end that will cause the spedometer/brake light
problem. There is also a known problem with the fan clutch that will
cause this roaring problem. I would go out and buy all the parts
needed, but I find it hard to believe that all these things went bad at
the exact same time.
Can anyone here suggest a set of troubleshooting steps or test that I
can work through to determine if the fan or ABS sender is bad? Could I
have gotten a bad replacement brake booster?

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This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against
instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make
mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."
Big Al - 10 Apr 2005 07:34 GMT
> The roar is still there, and the engine still dies at stops. So I turn to
> Google and search for a problem. Turns out there is a problem with a $30
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> work through to determine if the fan or ABS sender is bad? Could I have
> gotten a bad replacement brake booster?
Easy check for the clutch fan. Drive the truck for a while to get the fan to
a normal condition. Then put the truck in neutral and open the hood. Rev the
engine up to around 2500 RPM and just listen. The fan should roar at first,
after a minute or so it should settle down and be quiet. There are a number
of other ways to check it, but this is easy.
Al
Steve Lusardi - 10 Apr 2005 08:06 GMT
Ernest,
Carry your thoughts a bit further. You were under the dash changing the
heater core. You were pulling, tugging and pushing everything around to
accomplish this most unpleasant task. I think all of your problems are due
to this. Yes, there is a hall effect sensor in the rear for the speedometer.
In fact, I think there is one on each wheel. The rams have one on the
differential as well. They all terminate under the dash. I mean, what can go
wrong with an inert sensor. It is only a coil of wire around a magnetic
slug. Check for continuity through the sensors from the dash end. It is very
likely that incorrect speed data could cause the PCM to create the stalls as
well as the brake ABS fault. I would disconnect and examine every pin in the
associated wire harness and reconnect carefully. Remember hall effect
sensors work by creating a magetic field at the end of the slug and when a
metallic object passes trough the field, some of the energy is coupled to
that object which momentarily increases the current draw of the sensor. This
change in current is detected as the speed signal.
Steve
> I'm at my wits end, and I'm hoping someone here can point the way.
>
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
> work through to determine if the fan or ABS sender is bad? Could I have
> gotten a bad replacement brake booster?
hoi polloi - 10 Apr 2005 15:19 GMT
> Ernest,
> Carry your thoughts a bit further. You were under the dash changing the
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> change in current is detected as the speed signal.
> Steve
Isn't the sensor for the speedometer in the transmission?
The one on the differential is for the anti-lock breaks.
JAM
Tom Lawrence - 10 Apr 2005 15:39 GMT
> Isn't the sensor for the speedometer in the transmission?
Not since '97. The sensor in the rear diff is used by both the CAB for ABS
functions, and the PCM for speedometer/odometer functions.
hoi polloi - 10 Apr 2005 15:15 GMT
> I'm at my wits end, and I'm hoping someone here can point the way.
>
[quoted text clipped - 52 lines]
> mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
> decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."
Welcome to the Dodge Dakota Lemon Club! I have a 2002 that has had some
of the same problems and many more. I filed a lemon law suit and got
cash for my troubles.
The idle problem is caused by the programing of the PCM. Recheck the
wiring connections and clean them, this may clear the indicator light
problems and the speedometer problems. The roaring sound is the fan.
JAM
Tom Lawrence - 10 Apr 2005 15:42 GMT
> Welcome to the Dodge Dakota Lemon Club! I have a 2002 that has had some
> of the same problems and many more. I filed a lemon law suit and got
> cash for my troubles.
Excuse me - but when you have a perfectly good working truck, then tear the
whole dash out, put it back, and all of a sudden have several seemingly
unrelated electrical problems, it's not because the truck is a lemon.
> The idle problem is caused by the programing of the PCM.
And this programming got changed by him replacing the heater core?
Ernest Christley - 10 Apr 2005 18:21 GMT
>>Welcome to the Dodge Dakota Lemon Club! I have a 2002 that has had some
>>of the same problems and many more. I filed a lemon law suit and got
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> And this programming got changed by him replacing the heater core?
That is my thinking on the subject, Tom. The fact that there is such a
clear demarcation point for the start of all the troubles really does
point the finger back at something I did.
One thing I did not mention, and it may be sort of important.
Immediately after I replace the brake booster, the roaring was much
diminished, but gradually increased to the previous levels within about
and hour. The tone is slightly different now. It stilled died at
stopping, but not as badly at first. I really do think the brake
booster is involved somehow, but most likely just as a victim.

Signature
This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against
instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make
mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."
Tom Lawrence - 10 Apr 2005 18:49 GMT
> That is my thinking on the subject, Tom. The fact that there is such a
> clear demarcation point for the start of all the troubles really does
> point the finger back at something I did.
It's unfortunate, but I'm thinking you pinched a bundle of wires behind the
dash somewhere.
Ernest Christley - 10 Apr 2005 18:32 GMT
Another clue:
The dongle hanging off the front of the brake booster has two lines
coming out. One goes to the manifold. I assume this is for vacuum.
The other runs to a tee and then into the firewall at a couple of
places. (The new one also has a capped nipple sticking out the front
that the old one didn't have, but I'm assuming it's is a non-player here.)
Do the lines running through the firewall act as a pressure relief
system? There is at least one one-way valve right after the dongle (I
could blow through it one way, but not the other). I could not blow
through the system from the brake booster side after removing the valve.
If the pressure gets to high, would it destroy a diaphram in the booster?

Signature
This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against
instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make
mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."
TBone - 11 Apr 2005 00:18 GMT
> Another clue:
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Do the lines running through the firewall act as a pressure relief
> system?
No, the ones going through the firewall are used by your climate control.
> There is at least one one-way valve right after the dongle (I
> could blow through it one way, but not the other). I could not blow
> through the system from the brake booster side after removing the valve.
These valves are used to maintain vacuum on the brake booster when the
intake manifold vacuum drops.
> If the pressure gets to high, would it destroy a diaphram in the booster?
The brake booster is powered by vacuum, not pressure so there should never
be "pressure" on its diaphragm. You cannot blow into it because the one way
valve prevents it. I would look under your dash and make sure that you
don't have a loose or broken vacuum line. The air being sucked through it
could be causing both your noise and stalling at idle.

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Ernest Christley - 11 Apr 2005 02:56 GMT
> The brake booster is powered by vacuum, not pressure so there should never
> be "pressure" on its diaphragm. You cannot blow into it because the one way
> valve prevents it. I would look under your dash and make sure that you
> don't have a loose or broken vacuum line. The air being sucked through it
> could be causing both your noise and stalling at idle.
Thanks, TBone. That is on the agenda for the AM. I do remember the
line that went through on the driver's side got pinched and I had to
rework some stuff to get it back in right. Might have some work to do
still.

Signature
This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against
instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make
mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their
decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."