Not much - but it's better to attach a hose to the bleeder screw and expel
fluid from the caliper when compressing the pistons, rather than forcing the
fluid back up and into the resevoir.  This accomplishes several things - it
works the bleeder screw so it doesn't freeze up, it gets some old fluid out
of the system, it doesn't allow the resevoir to overflow and make a mess,
and most importantly, it doesn't force any contaminants back up the system,
possibly into the ABS pump.  Just make sure the tube fits tightly over the
bleeder nipple, and the other end is in a contained immersed in fluid (this
way, if the piston happens to bounce back a little bit when you remove the
clamp, it won't suck in air).  The slide pin bolts that mount the caliper
torque to 24ft.lbs.  Your lug nuts go to 135ft.lbs., in a criss-cross
pattern.

Use the old inner pad as a backing plate to compress the pistons, since
there's two of them.  Bottom out the pistons, then re-tighten the bleeder
screw.

When you remove the pads, check the rotor for any scoring.  I always check
the rotors for excessive run-out (need a dial indicator for this) as well.
If there's no grooves, and the run-out's within specs, the rotor's good to
go for another set of pads.  If not, I just toss 'em and put on new
rotors...  even on our trucks, these days there's just not much excess
material on the rotors, and more often than not, having them cut will bring
them below minimum thickness, and will cost almost as much as a new set.
Fortunately, the 3rd gen trucks (even the HD 4x4's) use a separate rotor and
hub, meaning you just have to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper
adapter to the knuckle to remove the rotor.

When you're all finished, pump up the brakes until the pedal gets firm, then
top off the fluid resevoir with fresh brake fluid.