not sure about Mopar's, but on GM's, after a dead battery, you have to do a
key on-off-on-off-on-off-then start

something about 'preventing high RPM idle on a fresh start' (as in first
start at the factory), according to the local battery/alternator/starter guy

try it, AFTER you have the battery charged AND load-tested and know it's
good (you might be better off to just instal a known good battery for a
start)

as far as the 'fuel pressure fuse', pure phlogiston

I think I found the answer: From the dodge archives..

approximately 10 volts or lower. This means that the computer has lost
track of the position that the idle air control motor is in.  It no
longer knows if the motor is open - closed - or anywhere in between.
 This is why the vehicle dies as soon as the throttle is let off.  It no
longer has the ability to control the idle.  It would eventually relearn
the value if the vehicle was operated through a variety of acceleration
and deceleration scenarios, however it is easier to replace the faulty
battery and reset all sensor minimum values with the DRBII.
    Someone might comment on the fact that they can reconnect their
battery after it has been disconnected and that it will start and idle
fine.  Why is that so if the memory has been lost?  My only answer is
from experience only, not technical knowledge.  Low voltage is by far
worse for a computer than no voltage.  It is my belief that the low
voltage will cause the processors to develop false values which will
result in a variety of problems when trying to start the vehicle.
     Remember that the crankshaft and camshaft hall-effect sensors have
a power up wire of 9 volts.  Even if the engine cranks and the fuel pump
could develop enough fuel pressure under 9 volts, the vehicle will never
start.

I really doubt it...  I leave my cell phone plugged in to my accessory
outlet (always powered) all the time, and never have a problem.  The draw
from a charger is VERY low.  It soulds like your battery died from 'old
age' - but your cell phone didn't have anything to do with it.  Of course,
if the charger malfunctioned, it could draw enough out of your battery to
run it down, but then your cell phone would be a puddle of goo on the seat,
as well.

Yep - it's dead.  Usually, if a battery drops below 10V at no load, it's
gone.

Absolutely.

Nope...  if that were the case, it wouldn't run at all - regardless of how
much throttle you give it.

Steve,
It is a 99% chance your battery is bad. If you have a good battery, 5 years
is the expected life and less if you started with a discount special. On the
idle thing, the computer lost its spark and fuel map position when the
battery failed, so it is now running on the default settings. The computer
will have to relearn the correct spark and mixture settings. This is best
done by a long trip of about 3 hours in a city setting. Otherwise it can
take a week or more of short trips.
Steve

Just being curious .. have you put a meter on the battery posts while the
engine runs to assure that your alternator is putting out about 15 volts?
Clean the battery posts/terminals to assure that corrosion isn't preventing
your battery from taking a charge?