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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / May 2005

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Brake Rotors Question

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Fred - 27 May 2005 02:27 GMT
Hi All!

Been wondering lately about replacement of the front rotors on my 99 CTD
2500 RWD.  Is there a measurement or rule of thumb used by brake shops on
when the rotors need to be replaced or is it strictly appearance, out of
true criteria that's used?

Also, how many times can the rotors be resurfaced

TIA

Best to all

Fred
TBone - 27 May 2005 02:32 GMT
> Hi All!
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Also, how many times can the rotors be resurfaced

Brake rotors should never be resurfaced, it just takes the life out of them.
If they are warped or gouged, then just replace them otherwise they should
be good to go.

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If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca - 27 May 2005 03:00 GMT
>> Hi All!
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>If they are warped or gouged, then just replace them otherwise they should
>be good to go.

I agree in principal - however there IS a "minimum thickness" spec
cast into the rotor, and published. If the rotor is below that
thickness it MUST be replaced. A very light clean-up cut will often
get rid of a minor pulsation, and will give a firmer pedal and faster,
more effective break-in. Usually a rotor is good for 2 or 3 of these
"light" cuts.

However, today, USUALLY a rotor requires much more than that "light
cut" to clean up, in my experience - and Rotors are not much more
expensive than the machining cost - unless you can do it yourself.
beekeep - 27 May 2005 12:55 GMT
>> Hi All!
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>If they are warped or gouged, then just replace them otherwise they should
>be good to go.

Pure bullshit.  I have had mine turned every time that I have replaced
the brake pads.  I have only replaced the rotors once, the last brake
job, and have over 260,000 miles on the vehicle.  The pads last longer
and there is no pull to either side when braking.

beekeep
TBone - 27 May 2005 20:28 GMT
> >> Hi All!
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> job, and have over 260,000 miles on the vehicle.  The pads last longer
> and there is no pull to either side when braking.

LOL, just because you like to waste money and beat down your rotors doesn't
mean anything.  If you get to someone who actually knows what they are
doing, they may be able to resurface them properly without killing them but
in most cases, they just cut the hell out of them which serves no purpose.
As it seems, the rotors used on Dodge trucks are barely thick enough to do
the job as it is (with the number of warped rotor cases I see here) so
making them even thinner makes no sense.  I used to get them cut all of the
time as well but found no benefit in doing that.  If the rotors are warped
or gouged, I just replace them since cutting them is not all that much less
in cost and the thicker new rotors are safer anyway.

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If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

Lurker - 27 May 2005 03:24 GMT
Both by appearance and by meaurement.  If they are excessively pitted and
(being a '99) I would replace rather than cutting them down.  If you cut
them down you will have warped rotors and replace the in probably less than
a year anyway.
Did the rotors on my '97 van two years ago because of warpage.

> Hi All!
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Fred
Nosey - 27 May 2005 07:09 GMT
> Hi All!
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Fred

The brake rotors on your truck can be resurfaced an unlimited amount of
times as long as the finished thickness is more than 1.285". If your wear
exceeds this amount you have to replace them. Hub & rotor assemblies are
available for your truck for just under $100.00 each at Napa stores. New
rotors are better than re-surfaced rotors. If you can afford new ones get
them.
www.napaonline.com
No Spam for me - 28 May 2005 07:06 GMT
I have resurfaced rotors and can agree that every rotor is stamped with the
min spec. rust sometimes makes them tough to read or convert mm to in. but
there are book specs to go by also.
Selling brakes needs to be a system thing. Don't just slap pads on and
expect new brakes.
To get back close to original performance, Rotors must be trued and calipers
lubed, bushings and anti rattle springs replaced, fluid flushed to get the
system up to par. Think about it, how long do springs, bushings and fluid
stay good at high rotor temps over 40k miles?
People spend 50 bucks for pads 100 bucks or more for labor and pass on the 5
dollar bushings or springs and 5-10 dollar rotor turning. You get LESS than
what you paid for when you short cut a few cheap items.
If rotors are in need of replacement, spend a bit more and get the drilled
vented models for better than new performance, and longer life with no
warping.

> Hi All!
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Fred
 
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