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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / June 20055.9L Long Block or Short Block
Which do I want???? Will they both fit in a 98 4x4 Dodge Durango?? -- plaidfr The term long or short does not refer to the length of the block, it refers to the completeness of the build. A short block is just the block and its internal components (pistons, connecting rods, crank) but does not include the cam, pushrods, heads, intake ... A long block is more complete and includes most of what is missing from the short block but is still usually missing a few things and is not ready to run.  SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Which do I want???? Will they both fit in a 98 4x4 Dodge Durango??? > The term long or short does not refer to the length of the block, it refers > to the completeness of the build. A short block is just the block and its > internal components (pistons, connecting rods, crank) but does not include > the cam, pushrods, heads, intake ... A long block is more complete and > includes most of what is missing from the short block but is still usually > missing a few things and is not ready to run. What he said. Your decision should be based on a lot of things. Cost is only one of them. But also, what are you looking to do? Trailer towing vs. drag strip runs vs. daily commuting. One of these years, mine will need a rebuild. Or I'll want to do it for better performance. It's only got 70K now, so no rush. I'd use an essentially stock long block, with cast or hypereutectic pistons, and a slightly better cam for more torque. Then add as set of Edelbrock's new heads, and probably the stock (but slightly improved) beer barrel intake. That should make a real stump puller that will last another 100K+ miles and not cost a fortune. Signature.boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project > > The term long or short does not refer to the length of the block, it refers > > to the completeness of the build. A short block is just the block and its [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > probably the stock (but slightly improved) beer barrel intake. That should make a > real stump puller that will last another 100K+ miles and not cost a fortune. With what you are going to do, wouldn't you be better off starting with a short block? SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >>>The term long or short does not refer to the length of the block, it > [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > With what you are going to do, wouldn't you be better off starting with a > short block? Maybe. When I get ready to do it, I'll start looking around and see what's available. Sometimes it's better to get a long block custom built, and some times not. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I only have 70K miles on the engine now, and it runs just great. But I can never leave well enough alone when it comes to engines. So I'm thinking about it now. I haven't even finished the two projects I'm working on now, and I'm already thinking of a third. And then there's the wife's car.......... Signature.boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project <SNIP> > I only have 70K miles on the engine now, and it runs just great. But I can never >leave well enough alone when it comes to engines. So I'm thinking about it now. Like I always say; "if it aint broke, you just haven't f.cked with it long enough" Malcontent Southern California's Four Seasons: Earthquake, Mudslide, Brushfire, and Riot >A short block is just the block and its > internal components (pistons, connecting rods, crank) but does not include > the cam, pushrods, heads, intake ... Short block will generally include the cam and lifters. Any that do not are better left in favor of those that do. SignatureMax Give a man a match, and he is warm for a short while. Light him on fire, and he is warm for the rest of his life. > The term long or short does not refer to the length of the block, it > refers [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >> Which do I want???? Will they both fit in a 98 4x4 Dodge Durango??? > >A short block is just the block and its > > internal components (pistons, connecting rods, crank) but does not include > > the cam, pushrods, heads, intake ... > > Short block will generally include the cam and lifters. Any that do not are > better left in favor of those that do. I guess that depends on stock or performance. A basic stock short block may come with a cam but not a performance one. If you were going stock, why would you use a short block anyway? On the performance side, they simply have no idea what I want to use the engine for, what RPM range I want the power in, what heads, intake, or fuel system I am going to use so how could they have any idea what cam to give me. Now the cam bearings would be installed but usually not the cam itself. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > >A short block is just the block and its > > > internal components (pistons, connecting rods, crank) but does not [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > come with a cam but not a performance one. If you were going stock, why > would you use a short block anyway? several reasons: bad rod, excessive ring wear, broken crank anywhere else, use a long block; the extra dollars wil be saved on NOT having to re-do the heads > > > >A short block is just the block and its > > > > internal components (pistons, connecting rods, crank) but does not [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > bad rod, excessive ring wear, broken crank While all true, in most cases like this, people would just replace the entire engine. The time saved and the warranty in most cases more than make up for the extra cost of the engine itself. > anywhere else, use a long block; the extra dollars wil be saved on NOT > having to re-do the heads agreed. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving I gather you are trying to swap a 360 in where a 318 is now first, make sure it will pass emissions inspections if that is required the ECM MAY be able to increase fuel flow enough for the larger engine one of the mounts is different, I think LH side the balancer is different the flex-plate may or may not be different, the converter for the transmission will need to be changed that being said, I'd go with a long block, to avoid un-necessary parts-swapping, plus Dodges are bad for valve guides needing to be replaced; what you save on head work will make up for the extra cost of LB vs SB > Which do I want???? Will they both fit in a 98 4x4 Dodge Durango??? Thank you all for your input... I'll have to let you guys know how i ends up. Looks like I will go with the Long Block, no real need fo the performance mods. I just want more power to tow a trailer especially when travelling uphills. My 318 has about 200k miles on it and the rear seal is starting to lea so it needs to be pulled anyways, hence the question of upgrading to th 360. Thank -- plaidfr Here is a tip, get on the net and look for a late model engine from a wreck with low mileage. Buy the engine complete with computer and cat. You will need some odds and ends from both the old and new engines. Steve > Which do I want???? Will they both fit in a 98 4x4 Dodge Durango??? |
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