> The 5.9L motor in my 98 2500 quad cab has developed a lower end knock.
> It's most noticeable on start for a few seconds but it's always there
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.

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So how much would a long block cost ?
>>The 5.9L motor in my 98 2500 quad cab has developed a lower end knock.
>>It's most noticeable on start for a few seconds but it's always there
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> going with a long block instead and get the new (rebuilt heads) and valve
> train as well.
Christopher Thompson - 24 Jul 2005 20:17 GMT
> So how much would a long block cost ?
dont quote me on it because its been a few years but seems to me the last
time i priced a long block for a customer it was around 1300 to 1500 for a
jasper long block with completion kit. like i say ive been out of the
business for a while and not sure how well you could trust my memory. but
the thing i used to like about jasper for my customers was i could get them
a long block resonably priced with completion kit (plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
thermostat, hoses, waterpump, belt ect. pritty much everything needed for a
complete install) with a 3year 75,000 mile warr through jasper. ofcourse you
would have to check with jasper on the specifics on warr and price, but i
had good success with them. their website is www.jasperengines.com and thier
phone number is (800) 827-7455. hope this is some help.
chris
> >>The 5.9L motor in my 98 2500 quad cab has developed a lower end knock.
> >>It's most noticeable on start for a few seconds but it's always there
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> > going with a long block instead and get the new (rebuilt heads) and valve
> > train as well.
> The change in sound you are describing sounds like a main bearing.
Hardly. Mains make very little noise when failed. In fact, an engine with a
failed main could run for quite some time, depending on how much oil
pressure is lost due to the failure. Particularly in the 360, where the
mains are 2.800" diameter, the crank is stiff enough to keep any flex to a
minimum.
Fact is, it could be any bearing on the crank, but is much more likely to be
the rods than the mains.
>The
> problem is that if a bearing has failed, the chances are pretty good that
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> going with a long block instead and get the new (rebuilt heads) and valve
> train as well.
Otherwise, seems like you are hitting the mark.

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Max
Give a man a match, and he is warm for a short while. Light him on fire, and
he is warm for the rest of his life.
>> The 5.9L motor in my 98 2500 quad cab has developed a lower end knock.
>> It's most noticeable on start for a few seconds but it's always there
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> going with a long block instead and get the new (rebuilt heads) and valve
> train as well.
SnoMan - 25 Jul 2005 05:35 GMT
>> The change in sound you are describing sounds like a main bearing.
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>to be
>the rods than the mains.
I agree that mains rarely make noise themselves and "might" cause a
little vibration rumble in the engine if the get real loose along with
bad oil pressure. But indirectly they do cause noise form other
sources because when main gets worn, they can cause rods to go because
of lack of oil pressure to rods so in a way worn mains do cause noise.