Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / August 2005

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

New To Group. Need Help With 85 W-150 RUST

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
stacker - 10 Aug 2005 07:47 GMT
Hi all! Is this the right place to ask for help trying to keep my 1985 W-
150 on the road? Lots of questions including how the roof panels and drip
rail are welded together before they start to disintegrate. Is taking the
old outer roof panel off a safe job for an amateur? The best rust
inhibiters to use before priming, painting and undercoating the bad spots
under the box floor and behind the sides, good sources for generic body
parts when available, etc. I can't afford a bodyshop, so I need to do my
own work when possible. This is a great old pickup, but is in need of some
serious TLC. Mechanically, it runs great, but has a delayed thud and
shudder when accelerating from a complete stop at a sign or light. It's
been doing it for quite some time (3 years?), but nothing obvious has
surfaced. Thanks, and .....HELP!!!!!! Andy
Morgan - 10 Aug 2005 16:40 GMT
> Hi all! Is this the right place to ask for help trying to keep my 1985 W-
> 150 on the road? Lots of questions including how the roof panels and drip
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> been doing it for quite some time (3 years?), but nothing obvious has
> surfaced. Thanks, and .....HELP!!!!!! Andy
I have an '87 for sale, if you're within a couple hours of Springfield,
MA come take a look.
Erik Veng for sheet metal.
Check your gear lash in the differential, possibly might want to do
bearings.
You don't even want to try separating the outer roof from the inner when
you don't have a body shop or a welder and it's also welded around the
window openings. Get those wrong and it'll leak more than it ever did.
Replacing the cab is so much easier. Disassemble the nose after
unplugging and disconnecting things and unbolt the cab from the frame.
You'll want to gut the cab and take the doors off of course. This also
makes it -much- easier to work on and fix the one you have and get at
other things like the u-joints for the transfer case, stuff like that.
Check your frame while you're at it and oil the bastard with old motor
oil or thinned out grease..kero and 90 weight gear oil sprayed up along
the frame and into the bed ought to do a lot for where you can't reach
with undercoat..
Oh, good undercoat, 3M Professional Grade rubberized undercoat.. This
stuff is the sh.t to use.. Bought fenders from a Dodge dealer and
wherever I sprayed its never rusted, inner side of the fenders
obviously. Outer side has surface rust from the dirt and other crud
beating up on the paint. I bought the fenders back in '91 and except for
wrinkling one I have the other still with no inside rust.

My other truck is something of a bastard child.. It started life as a
'74 D100 and now has the bed of a'78, cab from an '80(12/1979), A/C from
an '87 Ramcharger, trans from a '67 Coronet, heads and intake from a '69
 273.. Rebuilt it twice so far. I should name it Franken-truck.
stacker - 10 Aug 2005 17:44 GMT
My other truck is something of a bastard child.. It started life as a
> '74 D100 and now has the bed of a'78, cab from an '80(12/1979), A/C
> from an '87 Ramcharger, trans from a '67 Coronet, heads and intake
> from a '69
>   273.. Rebuilt it twice so far. I should name it Franken-truck.

Hi Morgan. Thanks for the tips. I'm on the Minnesota/Wisconsin border in
the heart of rust territory. This truck was already a collection of bits
and pieces of other trucks when I bought it. God only knows where alot of
the running gear and body parts came from. I"ve had a couple mechanics,
that have more on the ball than I will ever have, check the drive train.
The rear differential has been gone over. It can be in motion up to 5 or 10
feet before the thud comes along. If I am gentle with it, no thud at all.
The rear springs are not the best. I'm gonna run with the used oil idea.
The frame needs a shot of something to hold the rust back. I have a body
shop that is more than willing to put the new outer roof on, I just
wondered about taking the old roof off, grinding down the welds, and
handing it to them to finish the reassembly. I'm not crazy enough to try it
after seeing the way it is welded together at the back of the cab. Anything
I do has to be done in a friends barn. No garage here.
Morgan - 10 Aug 2005 18:34 GMT
>  My other truck is something of a bastard child.. It started life as a
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> after seeing the way it is welded together at the back of the cab. Anything
> I do has to be done in a friends barn. No garage here.
Mn.. Just so you know, my dad told me that when he was in the Coast
Guard and stationed in Virginia Beach they had an old jeep to go down
the beach and get the kids for school. Once a month they'd mix up some
kero and 90 weight and spray it down to coat all where the salt water
would splash. They had the thing for -years- and when they used a
pressure washer to clean off all the gunk from all those years to sell
it the thing looked brand new.
My old truck still has the original e-brake cables because whenever I
get any grease from greasing u-joints on my hands I just smear it along
the cables. Mind you, these are the old steel jacketed & wire wound
cables and its a really good idea to slime them when you need 'em to
work. Your truck however has the e-brake setup that if you want to you
can pull off the lever on the side of the frame and put a grease fitting
in it, should keep it from seizing like my '87 wanted to.. I had to
smack that sucker with a hammer and spray with penetrating oil to get it
to loosen up. By the way, I've been to Menasha, WI..  Right accross from
Pierce Fire Equipment when I was working for Swift Transportation. Saw
some nice old vehicles too.. Anyway, your cab is put together in such a
way that you'd have to cut the inner side of the roof loose to get at
the welds for the outer roof..not fun.
Andy - 10 Aug 2005 20:42 GMT
I had to smack that sucker with a hammer and spray with
> penetrating oil to get it to loosen up. By the way, I've been to
> Menasha, WI..  Right accross from Pierce Fire Equipment when I was
> working for Swift Transportation. Saw some nice old vehicles too..
> Anyway, your cab is put together in such a way that you'd have to cut
> the inner side of the roof loose to get at the welds for the outer
> roof..not fun.

AArgh! I can do without that roof job. I'll let the body guy worry about
the roof, and just take care of the stuff I can handle. The last guy that
had this truck loused-up the E-brake set-up, so it is unuseable. As a
matter of fact, he just let the whole thing go to pot. More work. I was
going to replace the valve cover gaskets before winter too, but it doesn't
seem to leak alot. Where it does, NO rust problems, so let it leak awhile
longer! My wife has an aunt somewhere over near Menasha. It's almost
straight East across the state of Wi.from here. Anyway, back to drip rail
hunting. Chrysler dropped the part, and there isn't a stocking dealer left
anywhere.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.