> way it seems to turn and spring back. I wonder if anyone has any tips or
> tricks for removing the rear brake drums. Any help will be greatly
> appreciated.
>> way it seems to turn and spring back. I wonder if anyone has any tips or
>> tricks for removing the rear brake drums. Any help will be greatly
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> may be rusted around the hub. Spray around the hub with some penetrating
> oil to help loosen it.
Thanks for the response. I was not sure which way to turn the star
adjuster. I even have the Service Manual, which only states "3) Remove the
brake drum" , not saying how. I initially started turning the adjuster
inwards and did so quite easily for a while and then it stopped turned due
to resistance. I assumed that I was tightening the adjuster at this point.
When trying to turn the adjuster in the opposite direction, towards the
outside, it was difficult turning the wheel. I had the impression that
there might be a ratcheting lever or lock that kept the adjuster wheel from
untightening. However, there is no reference to such a thing in the manual.
When trying to remove the drum, it will not budge at all. I tried hitting
it a few times, hoping the impact would free the drum up if it was frozen.
That did not work. I will go out now and spray it real good with
penetrating oil and give it another shot
Sunday, this time being sure I turn the adjuster to the outside.
Thanks,
Bill
TBone - 14 Aug 2005 02:29 GMT
If the shoes are holding it, it will move a little but will spring back. If
it is solid and you can turn it, then it is rusted in place as Tom said.
When I did mine, I used one of my large pullers to help get them free but in
hind sight, penetrating oil probably would have helped.

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>
> >> way it seems to turn and spring back. I wonder if anyone has any tips or
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> Thanks,
> Bill
Tom Lawrence - 14 Aug 2005 03:23 GMT
> When I did mine, I used one of my large pullers to help get them free but
> in
> hind sight, penetrating oil probably would have helped.
Yeah - I never had (nor have - go figure :) a puller large enough for my
drums. At times, a sledge hammer sure came in handy. I've often heard of
the trick (but never tried it personally) if running the truck in gear up to
about 20MPH or so, then hitting the brakes. The idea is that the shock load
without the wheels clamping the drum will be enough to free it.
Sounds like a perfect way to make shrapnel to me, but hey - it's worked for
others.
Also - make sure there aren't any of those little metal assembly clips on
the studs. Sure, they look small and thin enough, but they make it a ROYAL
pain to remove the drum (or rotor, depending). Pry them off with a
screwdriver and toss them out - they're just there to hold things together
on the assembly line, and aren't needed otherwise.