> OK, all that for this. Is there any way to pull that busted door out and
> place in a new one without pulling the whole dash out (which includes
> pulling the steering column)?
>> OK, all that for this. Is there any way to pull that busted door out and
>> place in a new one without pulling the whole dash out (which includes
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> having twice shelled out for HVAC-related repairs on two of my other
> vehicles (leaking evap. in one truck, leaking heater core in another).
Tom, thanks for the advice. You are one of the respected few here that give
good advice. I took some of it.
I layed the steering wheel to the front seat, took off the glove box, the
front panel that goes from the glove box to the center panel, the floor
console, etc... took the bolts off both ends of the dash and the center to
the floor bolts, and the screws and bolts by the windshield, A pillar covers
and ends and various stuff.
This allowed me the room to pull the electronic box that sits over the HVAC
unit just to the left of the recirc door. Allowing me the room means it was
loose enough for me to push up the right side of the dash about 2 inches
without removing the dash in its entirity. With that electronic box gone, I
had room to take off the recirc actuator. I cut the gril off the air intake
(for recirc) and reached in and took out the busted door and the piece that
busted off.
I worked out that white nylon bushing thingy (technical term I can't
replicate from the manual) and put the new door in (greased). Replaced the
thingy and actuator. Tested system. All passed.
Put everything back together. What a pain in the a.s. All that for a $30
door ($40 retail). Oh, and I didn't replace the grill I cut out. I figured
it was there to keep small cats or dogs out of the HVAC system when on
Recirc. Since I keep out the small animals, I thought I might do without
the replacement. If someone gives me a good reason to glue it back in, I'll
consider it.
This was a major job for me and for major jobs I usually build up some
tools. Only thing I needed extra for this was the trim stick. I had a
cheap one a long time ago, but I splurged and spent almost $6 on a new one
that has a screwdriver type handle. Worked fine.
FMB
(Only one B in FMB)
Tom Lawrence - 16 Dec 2005 04:53 GMT
> I worked out that white nylon bushing thingy (technical term I can't
> replicate from the manual) and put the new door in (greased). Replaced
> the thingy and actuator. Tested system. All passed.
Good to hear... I haven't had to remove the dah in a 3rd Gen yet... just
the basic bezel removals to run wiring, etc. I have had to do the job on
both a '99 and '95 model - not fun. The 3rd gens seem to be a lot easier
(not an easy job, just easier than previous years). You were pretty much
one or two steps from removing the entire IP... a few electrical
disconnects (the big bulkhead and the ones around it), and the dash would
have come out of the truck.