'05 Ram 2500 diesel questions...

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Jeremy - 25 Dec 2005 22:47 GMT

Merry Christmas, y'all!

Haven't read the group much lately here, but always was able to find
the help I needed here before, and I had a few questions for y'all on
the Cummins diesel.

I just bought an '05 2500 earlier this year, and they took care of the
first oil change for me, but it's that time again, and I'm a little
lost. I had a 360 gas engine in a '94 1500 before, and got to know it
pretty well, but I cannot find the oil filter on the diesel yet. I
also noticed that the drain plug looks to be a square indention rather
than a normal bolt head, so it looks like I need a new tool. Anyone
have any ideas on either of these for me?

Additionally, I'm supposed to have the engine block heater installed,
but it didn't come with the cord to hook it up. So I've got the cord
now, but I don't know where it hooks into the heater at. Can anyone
point me in the right direction?

Thanks for your time, and hope y'all have a great Christmas!

-Jeremy

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Max Dodge - 25 Dec 2005 23:22 GMT

Oil filter is located at the top passenger side front of the engine. The pan
plug is a 3/8" square, so if you have a ratchet and extension, you are set.
You will want to change the fuel filter at some point as well. Use the
appropriate socket to remove the cannister lid. Using a square socket will
crack the boss, and lead to a headache.

The engine heater cord should plug in just aft of the oil filter on the
passenger side of the block.

Signature

Max

"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)

> Merry Christmas, y'all!
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> -Jeremy

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Tom Lawrence - 26 Dec 2005 01:56 GMT

Just to add to Max's info:

> pretty well, but I cannot find the oil filter on the diesel yet.

As Max said, it's on the passgner-side front. You can access it from below
with a 93mm end-cap wrench and long extension, or from up top with a strap
wrench. Just remove the air box (easy enough to do), and you'll have easy
access to the filter.

> also noticed that the drain plug looks to be a square indention rather
> than a normal bolt head, so it looks like I need a new tool. Anyone
> have any ideas on either of these for me?

Watch your torque when putting the plug back. It's only 44ft.lbs. Several
people have cracked their plug by over-tightening.

As for the fuel filter, use a 1-1/8" socket to unscrew the lid. Befoe you
do that, aim the clear drain tube that comes from the bottom of the canister
into a coffee can (I extended my drain hose - used a 3/8" hose barb repair
kit, and a length of 3/8" air hose), then open up the yellow drain lever.
Now when you back off the canister lid, the canister will drain out (if it
didn't already drain when opening up the lever). Remove the lid, and the
filter comes with it. Pull the filter off the lid, remove the O-ring from
the lid (new filter comes with new O-ring), put new O-ring back onto lid,
lube it with some oil or diesel fuel, snap new filter in place, and put the
lid back. DO NOT FORGET TO CLOSE THE YELLOW DRAIN HANDLE. Tighten the lid
"just snug" - but make sure there isn't a gap between the lid and the
canister housing. Now turn the ignition to 'ON', and momentarily 'bump' the
key to START. This will activate the fuel pump, and will fill the canister
with fuel. Once the pump shuts off (about 30 seconds), start the truck. It
may run rough for a few seconds - it may even stall. If it does, just
re-start it. Once the air purges out, it'll smooth out.

Fuel filter changes should be done anywhere between 10,000 and 15,000 miles.
That usually works out to every other oil change. Buy only Fleetguard fuel
filters (and only Fleetguard Stratapore oil filters). Geno's Garage
(http://www.genosgarage.com) is the popular on-line source for these.
Geno's gets $12.95 for a fuel filter, and as you read above, it takes about
10 minutes to change out. Most dealerships charge over $100 for this
service.

By the way - you'll use 3 gallons of oil on an oil change. Plan accordingly

:) Use a 15W40 oil rated for diesel use, and stick with a name-brand oil.

Shell Rotella-T, Mobil Delvac 1300, Valvoline Premium Blue, or Chevron Delo
400 are all popular choices.

Okay... that's enough rambling for now. :)

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Jeremy - 26 Dec 2005 19:53 GMT

Alrighty, I think I know what I'm doing now. Thanks guys. Found the
plug for the block heater, just gotta run the cord now. The oil filter
looks to be a bit of a pain to get to, but I'd noticed it before, just
wasn't sure that was it. I'd already bought a Wix oil filter for this
change, but I notice you recommend Fleetguard. Any reason you
recommend them over others, and is there any problem using this Wix
this time and getting those ordered for next time.

On those Fleetguards, I'd read this on that site - "At Geno's Garage,
we took time to analyze the filter purchasing quantities of our
customers. Predictably, in a given maintenance interval (i.e. a 30,000
mile period), the oil filter is changed four times, the fuel filter two
times, and the air cleaner is changed once."

That looks to be an oil change every 7,500 miles? Is that where you
typically change yours? I'd been still aiming for 3,000-5,000 miles
for changes. Equals out to a fuel filter change every 15,000, like you
said. And is the fuel filter located inline from the tank? Hopefully
not located in the tank, like on my old '94 with the 360 gas.

Bought a case of six gallons of Rotella-T 15W40, so I'm set there.

If I'm gonna remove the air box to get to the oil filter anyway, I'd
been looking at getting an aircharger kit like this one
(http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=63-1532) from K&N to
put in there, and that would be a good time, I imagine, since I'd have
it out anyway. I'd also seen one from AIRAID, I believe it was. Any
preference of one over the other? I've had good luck with K&N so far,
and figured on sticking with them, but just didn't know if there were
any noticable differences.

Thanks again, guys!

Reply to this Message

Tom Lawrence - 26 Dec 2005 22:25 GMT

> change, but I notice you recommend Fleetguard. Any reason you
> recommend them over others, and is there any problem using this Wix
> this time and getting those ordered for next time.

No, the Wix should be fine. I (and many others) recommend Fleetguard
because it's what Cummins recommends. They're a high-quality filter, and
won't give you any problems. Other lesser-quality filters have been known
to come apart and cause problems.

> That looks to be an oil change every 7,500 miles? Is that where you
> typically change yours? I'd been still aiming for 3,000-5,000 miles

You can certainly do that, but it's wasteful. Cummins rates the engine for
15,000 mile oil changes under light duty, and 7,500 mile oil changes under a
HD maintenance schedule (which most people actually fall under - check your
owner's manual).

> said. And is the fuel filter located inline from the tank? Hopefully
> not located in the tank, like on my old '94 with the 360 gas.

Nope - the fuel filter canister is located on the driver's side of the
engine, towards the back.

> Bought a case of six gallons of Rotella-T 15W40, so I'm set there.

Perfect. My only complaint with Rotella is that it tends to stink for a bit
after an oil change. Because of that, I switched to Delvac 1300, and the
smell went away.

> If I'm gonna remove the air box to get to the oil filter anyway, I'd
> been looking at getting an aircharger kit like this one
> (http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=63-1532) from K&N

No. Cummins requires a filter with 99.5% first-pass efficiency. The K&N is
well below that. If you want to go with a re-useable filter, I highly
recommend a filter system from Scotty Air Systems,
(http://www.scottysystems.ca/), which uses a UNI dual-layer foam filter.
Scotty is extremely diligent about filtration, and has done extensive
testing and oil analysis to find the best filters for his airboxes.

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Jeremy - 28 Dec 2005 17:31 GMT

I'll check into the Fleetguards from here on out, then. I know they
Midwest Kenworth place just across the highway carries them, too, and
one of the guys at O'Reilly's mentioned them to me just a day or so ago
as being what I should look at using, too. Not sure what Midwest
Kenworth asks for them, but I checked with prices for Wix and such I
can get at O'Reilly's, and that package from Geno's is cheaper, so I'll
probably just order from them.

I did check my owner's manual, even before I posted anything here...
It still says 3000 miles. In fact, it has very little relating to the
diesel engines at all in it. So thanks, you've convinced me that I was
right in the first place, I got the wrong manuals. Going back to the
dealership later today to pick my truck up, and I'm gonna get the right
manuals from them. It'll make a lot more sense with those.

Was also thinking about picking up a service manual, since Chilton
doesn't have one for the truck yet. Anyone got any experience with
those? I was pretty good with the Chilton's, but I'm just afraid the
service manual is going to be like a foreign language to me.

On that Scotty Air system, there's a tube there in the top left hand of
the picture (http://www.scottysystems.ca/scotty5preview.jpg). Is that
a replacement for the silencer that comes stock in the tube running
from the airbox? I'll probably look into one of these, too. They seem
to run not too much more than the K&N and such anyway.

Thanks again for your help! And if y'all have any other suggestions
for me, I'd be glad to hear them. The only other thing I'm looking at
now is something like Banks' High-Ram intake, and maybe working on the
exhaust a bit. Not trying to ramp up my hp and torque too much, but I
wouldn't mind a bit extra. The thing pulls the trailers great at the
moment anyway.

Jeremy

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Tom Lawrence - 28 Dec 2005 18:07 GMT

> diesel engines at all in it. So thanks, you've convinced me that I was
> right in the first place, I got the wrong manuals.

In addition to getting the proper owner's manual, go to
http://www.hemitruckclub.com/ and click the link on the left for the '05
Manual' - this is a .zip file of several .PDFs, including the entire Factory
Service Manual. This has the full maintenance schedule, complete wiring
diagrams, and full service procedures for everything on the truck. It's an
extremely valuable resource, even if you only intend to do routine
maintenance.

> Is that a replacement for the silencer that comes stock in the tube
> running
> from the airbox?

No - that's probably the piece that attaches the filter to the plastic
airbox.

> I'll probably look into one of these, too. They seem
> to run not too much more than the K&N and such anyway.

Nope - only a few dollars more. If I wasn't running a twin-turbo system,
I'd still have my Scotty 3 on my truck.

> now is something like Banks' High-Ram intake

I have one, and the only reason I bought it was that it looked nice. Don't
expect any performance gains from it, despite the hype from Banks.

> and maybe working on the exhaust a bit.

The combination of a better-flowing air intake and a better-flowing exhaust
will certainly let the turbo spool up quicker. If you live anywhere in the
snow belt, a stainless steel system will hold up much better. MBRP offers a
nice 4" cat-back system in stainless steel.

> Not trying to ramp up my hp and torque too much, but I wouldn't mind a bit
> extra.

Yep. HP gets expensive :)

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A Slab Of Red Meat - 20 Jan 2006 00:00 GMT

> Merry Christmas, y'all!
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> -Jeremy

www.dieseltruckresource.com I'm manganos on there. Congrats and
welcome to our moneypit!

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Christopher Thompson - 20 Jan 2006 02:22 GMT

> > Merry Christmas, y'all!
> >
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> > than a normal bolt head, so it looks like I need a new tool. Anyone
> > have any ideas on either of these for me?

the indention is a 3/8 square drive your 3/8 ratchet wrench will fit. dont
overtighten.

the oil filter is on the right side of the motor near the air box infact the
duct work to the turbo runs next to it.

> > Additionally, I'm supposed to have the engine block heater installed,
> > but it didn't come with the cord to hook it up. So I've got the cord
> > now, but I don't know where it hooks into the heater at. Can anyone
> > point me in the right direction?

the engine block heater is next to the oil filter has a black cover screwed
over it. remove the cover and chunk it. then screw the cord on thats it.

> > Thanks for your time, and hope y'all have a great Christmas!
> >
> > -Jeremy
>
> www.dieseltruckresource.com I'm manganos on there. Congrats and
> welcome to our moneypit!

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