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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / January 2006What is a good brand of Engine Flush?
Subject line sez all. What is the recommended brand of engine flush (that's readily available) for a sluggish V8 at 90k miles? None. You probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. > Subject line sez all. What is the recommended brand of engine flush > (that's readily available) for a sluggish V8 at 90k miles? >None. You probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. > >> Subject line sez all. What is the recommended brand of engine flush >> (that's readily available) for a sluggish V8 at 90k miles? There are many who will disagree with you, depending on the circumstances. I've used coal oil,deisel fuel, ATF, Shaler Rislone, Bardahl #1, Casite engine flush, and a host of other commercial engine flushes over the last almost 40 years. Only lost one engine to it, and it was beyond help before the flush. If I had dropped the pan right away a set of bearings and an oil pickup screen would have salvaged it, but hindsight has 20-20 vision.(1965 225 slant six with a split oil pickup screen due to some hamfist working on it previously) It's not so much what you use as how you use it, and what you are attempting to accomplish. It is a WHOLE lot easier to, for instance, adjust the valves on a flathead Dodge or Continental, when you can actually see the tappets.Or when you have an engine that has sat for 6-10 years and although it ran fine when parked, it smokes badly when restarted due to stuck oil control rings due to sludging. In the case of a heavily sludged engine you need to be gentle and take your time. On a relatively clean engine, like the one with stuck rings, you can afford to be more agressive. The best way to remove engine sludge is to prevent it. Adjust oil change intervals according to operation parameters. Lots of highway miles for example are better than short trips that don't warm the engine up. If the engine sits a lot change the oil every few months or, for synthetics, check with the oil manufacturer. Always change the filter with the oil. Budd >>None. You probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. >> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > your time. On a relatively clean engine, like the one with stuck > rings, you can afford to be more agressive. >The best way to remove engine sludge is to prevent it. Adjust oil change >intervals according to operation parameters. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Budd Definitely no argument there, Budd, but when you are in the business, as I was, you always ran into the guy who "knew better" and was proud of the fact he never changed the oil, or the guy who was just forgetful and neglected to change the oil, or the guy who used the cheapest oil he could get. Or you got the guy who bought the car one of those guys used to own. In those cases, the judicious use of a flushing agent was often necessary. >>>None. You probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. >>> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> your time. On a relatively clean engine, like the one with stuck >> rings, you can afford to be more agressive. >>The best way to remove engine sludge is to prevent it. Adjust oil change >>intervals according to operation parameters. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > forgetful and neglected to change the oil, or the guy who used the > cheapest oil he could get. Not only have I met him, when income for my family was below non-existant, I made him look like he changed oil too often. A slant six and a 383 I had went for 5 (/6)and 4 years (V-8) without oil changes, but I knew that wasn't right . . .just no money for 5 quasrts of oil. Was it right? No, but it was neccessary. But I agree with you, there are some that think oil changes are stupid. > Or you got the guy who bought the car one of those guys used to own. > In those cases, the judicious use of a flushing agent was often > necessary. I had a 64 1/2 Barracuda (yeah, the really rare one and my second ever car) that had black sludge on the rockers when I got it (273 V-8) and it took seven oil changes with the old thin viscosity Wynn's Friction Proofing to clean it out, each change being run only 500 miles between changes with filter each time. The previous owner? An elderly man that got it for his birthday in early 65 right after they came out then died in 67 years later which was when I bought it ($950). He only put 20,000 miles on it but they were all short slow trips and the original filter was still on the car. Budd >>>>None. You probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. >>>> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >>> your time. On a relatively clean engine, like the one with stuck >>> rings, you can afford to be more agressive. >Subject line sez all. What is the recommended brand of engine flush >(that's readily available) for a sluggish V8 at 90k miles? There are two brands I hear about more than any of the others, The better of the two IMHO anyway is called RESTORE, comes in a cylinder shaped can about the size of a large can of tennis balls. The other brand I hear about good results from a lot of people who swear by it is called "Rislone". In addition I have used Amsoil's engine flush prior to every oil change in my 1999 Durango SLT 5.9l. I slowly have become a big supporter of synthetics in general, but I don't exclusively se Amsoil's products. I have used Mobil 1 seemingly forever and the engines I have maintained that used it in the crankcase have usually gone well over 200k or more with no major breakdowns or increased oil consumption. I usually complement Mobil 1 with an oil additive called Tufoil (made by Fluororamics on the east coast) Use Amsoil's transmission fluid over Daimler Chrysler's ATF-4. I do periodically use Amsoil's oil anaolysis services as part of a (hopefully) thought out , effective maintenance strategy that prolongs the useful life of my vehicles and helps to reduce the probability of a roadside failure. Engine and automatic transmission flushing about every 3-5 maintenance intervals is part of the big picture as well. Good luck. Joe. |
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