>> rach im with you on that he didnt mention milky oil so im thinking that
>> possibly a failed gasket into a intake runner. i would think a cracked
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> that burn off if the engine finally starts or is there a way to dry out
> the cylinders short of removing the heads?
all i can suggest is look for a leak at the mainfold gasket and hope for the
best
other than that you are looking at a lot of time and decide if you want to
do it yourself or take it in for replacement -- you do not want to replace
the manifold -- at least an hour's shade tree time and not worth the hasssle
unless you plan to scrap the truck you took it out of -- so go to a used
parts place and get them to do the install and guarantee a new intalled temp
themostat and gasket at the same time
imnsho
rach
> So, if it is a manifold problem, what's the procedure? Pull the manifold
> and look for the leak.
That's what I'd do. Fix the plenum gasket while you have the manifold apart
(remove the plenum pan, and replace the factory gasket with a bead of RTV) -
they're known to leak oil into the intake, as well. I'd replace the bypass
hose at this time, since more often than not you wind up destroying it to
get the manifold off. A new thermostat is standard procedure, as well. I'd
also change the upper and lower radiator hoses if they're older than 30K
miles or so... all this stuff is easily done when the manifold is off
(since you're draining the coolant anyway).
> that would need to be replaced. Is a cracked manifold a fairly common
> occurance?
Not really - unless it was removed/replaced once before and not torqued
properly.
> The engine has 185m miles on it.
That's impressive. You drive it to the sun and back? :)
> the culpret and they get replaced, what about the coolant that's in the
> cylinders? Will that burn off if the engine finally starts or is there a
> way to dry out the cylinders short of removing the heads?
After fixing the problem and changing the oil (and plugs - they're cheap),
start it up, and any remaining coolant will promptly burn off. Drive it for
a bit, then change the oil once more to get rid of any residual coolant.
Rachel Easson - 28 Jan 2006 17:16 GMT
>> So, if it is a manifold problem, what's the procedure? Pull the manifold
>> and look for the leak.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> the bypass hose at this time, since more often than not you wind up
> destroying it to get the manifold off. ...
i am going to ask a stupid question -- as far as i know a plenum pan /
gasket is inside or behind the intake manifold -- would you know if an ol'
86ish d150 would have one? don't know much about this
and i think a cracked manifold is a lot more common on an SL6
rach
Tom Lawrence - 28 Jan 2006 20:02 GMT
> i am going to ask a stupid question -- as far as i know a plenum pan /
> gasket is inside or behind the intake manifold --
The "beer-barrel" intake manifolds of the 318/360's used in (at least) the
'94+ trucks have a belly pan bolted to the bottom of them, that creates the
plenum chamber inside the intake manifold. The problem with these is that
the belly pan is made of steel, the intake is cast aluminum, and the gasket
is of a sort-of-not-too-flexible variety. Over many heat/cool cycles, the
different rates of expansion/contraction of the dissimilar metals causes the
gasket to fail, and sucks oil from the lifter valley into the manifold.
You can see a picture of it here:
http://www.hughesengines.com/general/fasteners/magnum_fasteners.asp
> would you know if an ol' 86ish d150 would have one?
Sorry, no. My hands-on experience is with the '94+ models.
>> rach im with you on that he didnt mention milky oil so im thinking that
>> possibly a failed gasket into a intake runner. i would think a cracked
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> something that caused the coolant to turn blue. He said there was coolant
> in the oil and immediately suspected the head gasket.
Water in the oil?? How long has this been going on? How much water in the
oil?? Antifreeze and bearings do not play well together at all.
Roy
Peter Kemp - 28 Jan 2006 19:28 GMT
>>> rach im with you on that he didnt mention milky oil so im thinking that
>>> possibly a failed gasket into a intake runner. i would think a cracked
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Roy
Well i jsut went and checked and the oil on the dipstick is nice and
clean and smooth with no signs of any foreign liquid. Here's a little
history on this thing. Maybe something here might lend a clue to what's
going on.
This is my son's truck. About 3-4 months ago, he was having a real
overheating problem and was losing his coolant from below the water
pump. About a year earlier, he and his soner buddies replaced the water
pump. This time he and I did it by the book so I could make sure that
it was done properly. We got the new pump installed and everything went
fine for a couple of months and then it began overheating again. When i
opened the hood, I noticed a white powdery substance all over the front
of the engine block, especially behind the pump pulley. It also looked
like the radiator had developed a leak too. I sure a lot of this damage
resulted from my son driving the thing while it was hot and then coming
home and filling the radiator with water.
Anyway, the day before Xmas, we replaced the radiator, water pump,
bypass hose, thermostat and fan clutch. After the installation,
everything worked beautifully. The truck held the temperature even with
the AC on which, before, would send the temp gauge rising. I had
suspected the fan clutch early on based on some messages on this board.
A call to the Dodge house resulted in a quote of $340 for a fan clutch
-- money that i didn't have, so I never replaced it. Later a friend
told me that shouldn't cost that much and I found the clutch at PEP
boys for about $70. Now that i look back, I'm thinking that the bad fan
clutch probably caused all the prior problems.
The truck worked great for until after New Year's when my son went to
start the thing and it would turn over but not fire. After the battery
died, I hooked the jumpers and turned it until it started. It ran for a
day or two and then did the same thing. This time it wouldn't start at
all so I AAA'd it to my local mechanic. He kept it for a couple of days
and said that it started up for them and kept starting. He said the
plugs were covered in coolant and that the head gaskets were bad. I
went and picked it up. It started like it should and I drove it home.
My son drove it for a few days with out problems and then it reverted
to it's problems again.
So, it seems that the coolant is somehow entering the intake and
getting into the cylinders. I'm not sure what the mechanic was saying
about the coolant in the oil but it appears that the oil is not
contaminated. Also, after we installed all the cooling equipment, I
immediately took the truck to Valvoline and had the oil changed. I
would have thought they would have spotted any liquid in the oil if
there was any, so it appears that the problem developed after our
weekend mechanic work. I wonder if there was something we did wrong. A
water pump is pretty much a no-brainer so I don't know how we could
have messed that up.
One interesting note: When I pulled the water pump that my son had
installed, there was a hole rusted out between the two chambers of the
water pump. I suspect his use of water instead of coolant may have
eaten away at the metal. Could it be possible that this has occurred
somewhere within the manifold?
BTW: No the truck has not been to the sun but it has been to my son who
seems to be in constant motion. In Roman numerals, M stands for one
thousand and in the print/advertising business, 185m would be 185,000
miles.
Thanks for the kind help and suggestions from all concerned. This
newsgroup is a great help.
Roy - 28 Jan 2006 20:44 GMT
>>>> rach im with you on that he didnt mention milky oil so im thinking that
>>>> possibly a failed gasket into a intake runner. i would think a cracked
[quoted text clipped - 73 lines]
> Thanks for the kind help and suggestions from all concerned. This
> newsgroup is a great help.
I would think that both a compression test and a coolant pressure test will
answer you question as to where the water is coming from. I'd do the
compression first.
Roy