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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / April 200686ish D150 225 goes 1/2 a block then dies, won`t restart until cold
Hi guys, this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 D150 225 SL6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies, won`t restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things, set idle, etc., was running fine last summer, missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but, once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet, then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with, it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying, then same thing -- would not start until cool I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 D150 before I stole the part: -- checked all vacuum hoses, and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, new coil (plugs were very carbonated) -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump, fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb (holley 6145 1bbl), adjusted carb (curb and fast idle), put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb, and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve, breather cap, pcv valve -- replaced choke assembly(used) -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly (used) -- replaced computer (used) -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression: cylinder 1: 145 cylinder 2: 147 cylinder 3: 145 cylinder 4: 145 cylinder 5: 55 cylinder 6: 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 (about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5) set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so, since the brakes, power steering, new tires, excellent body, lights etc., all done, it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other D150, but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brother`s spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach > Hi guys, > [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] > > rach It won't restart because it doesn't have gas or spark? Which is it? Robert >> Hi guys, >> [quoted text clipped - 82 lines] > > Robert i don`t know -- but i just thought -- i`ll take a wire off the coil tomorrow night -- had a few beers now and do't feel like doing it now unless i can't sleep later -- and see if it sparks i think it`s fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas? I have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a garage and hoist i`ll have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the same time (old steel tank probably full of rust which is why i have been keeping the gas tank topped up) thanks robert rach >> It won't restart because it doesn't have gas or spark? Which is it? >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > rach Running a few hundred feet after a cold start and dying sounds like the float bowl is running empty. I have had a float stick on a Holley 7855 do that a time or two. But, you've changed carbs.... Robert >>> Hi guys, >>> [quoted text clipped - 90 lines] > i think it`s fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at > all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas? Yup..sure do. Cylinder 5..you SURE about that reading? If its that low, and you have a cat on the thing..cut it off with a sawzall and drive it home. > I have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a > garage and hoist i`ll have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > rach >>>> Hi guys, >>>> [quoted text clipped - 89 lines] >> i think it`s fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at >> all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas? i can`t spell when inebriated either ;-) > Yup..sure do. > > Cylinder 5..you SURE about that reading? positive -- checked it three times now -- the other readings are consistent too > If its that low, and you have a cat on the thing..cut it off with a sawzall > and drive it home. no cat converter (or smoked cats for that matter heehee) -- i wish rach >> I have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a >> garage and hoist i`ll have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> >> rach How have you got the idle mixture screw adjusted? It should start and run with it set 1 1/2 full turns from lightly bottomed and the curb idle screw at 1 full turn open. Then adjust for best idle at 700 to 750 warm. Fast idle should not have to be over 1000 -1200 rpm. Reset the timing between 10 and 12 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Also check the heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold. If it's stuck open you could be stalling due to carburetor icing.  SignatureBudd Cochran > Hi guys, > [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] > > rach > Hi guys, > > this truck is possessed > it is a mostly 82-86 D150 225 SL6 with some parts that are not even > close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies, won`t restart until cold That could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil, bad splice in the ignition lines, failing ballast or a failing ignition module. > i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several > small things, set idle, etc., was running fine last summer, missing a bit [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > but, once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet, then > will not restart until cold That sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. > no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem > the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start > with, it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying, then same thing > -- would not start until cool Even if the ignition cuts out, you still will not get a flooding smell. Do you have a timing light? If so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. If not, then you most likely have an ignition problem. Actually, a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that don't need them. > I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor > tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > cylinder 5: 55 > cylinder 6: 147 That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you have a compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. It can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. I would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder, make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke, hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. If you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust, you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. If it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and I would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. If the compression does not improve with a wet test, you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and I would be concerned about its reliability. If you hear nothing at all, then you may have a bent connecting rod and I would not trust or use that motor without further inspection. > -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees That sounds a bit over advanced. > set curb idle to 825-875 (about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5) > set fast idle to 1700 Fast Idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current problems. > -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety > so, since the brakes, power steering, new tires, excellent body, lights > etc., all done, it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other > D150, but need to get it running -- and stay running first With that #5 cylinder, I would not invest much money in THIS motor. > -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my > brother`s spare car > > any ideas will be greatly appreciated Good luck. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >> Hi guys, >> [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that don't > need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- Princess Auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so i'll try this test -- thank you for the tip >> I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor >> tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to > allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. holy sh.t is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- i'll check on this while at napa i love you guys! > It can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. I would look > into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder, make sure that #5 [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and I > would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. that would be what budd mentioned with squirting the oil in #5 yes? If the > compression does not improve with a wet test, you probably have a damaged > piston or severely damaged walls and I would be concerned about its > reliability. If you hear nothing at all, then you may have a bent > connecting rod and I would not trust or use that motor without further > inspection. thank you >> -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees > > That sounds a bit over advanced. the manual said 16 -- and it sounds good -- but i'll check my chilton manual today -- had that on my list to do -- budd told me 10-12 degrees >> set curb idle to 825-875 (about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5) >> set fast idle to 1700 > > Fast Idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current > problems. yes a bit fast but it runs smoother and sounds happier >> -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety >> so, since the brakes, power steering, new tires, excellent body, lights >> etc., all done, it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other >> D150, but need to get it running -- and stay running first > > With that #5 cylinder, I would not invest much money in THIS motor. exactly -- depending on how bad it is, will decide when this season to deal with it i am starting to think that ultimately changing its 225 with its twin's is not the way to go -- instead take all the new parts easy to access off Possessed and switch with its twin's old stuff, keep the twin with the body work to do this april i have to - fix starter and flywheel in 87 4x4 dakota, do a bunch of body work and put it up for sale -- motor is on its way out -- no burning oil but no power under load -- -- it's ugly, don't need it get a daily driver i need a 4x4 for winter so i could get my little 88 4x4 dakota with cracked block ready first (do floor and interior incl. seats and belts, rad, then have motor installed, and start driving it so i can give back my brother's car before end of april) or deal with "Possessed" -- see if its old 6145 carb was good (now squeaky clean) -- borrow choke back, and see how the twin runs, if ok, consider installing a manual choke i have -- sell off Possessed, work on twin -- if old carb was good, install manual choke, otherwise consider electronic fuel injection conversion, do body work later either way, it is a lot of work >> -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my >> brother`s spare car >> >> any ideas will be greatly appreciated > > Good luck. thanks tbone, i'm going to need it! rach >>> Hi guys, >>> [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > i do have a timing light so i'll try this test -- thank you for the tip Even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4" from the block will tell you if you have spark. Dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but I have a very old one. BG >>> I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor >>> tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] >> allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the >> head. By way of explanation, if the valve is burnt or bent, this will not help you. You will still need to pull the head. > holy sh.t is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and > am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to > two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that > strong -- i'll check on this while at napa > > i love you guys! To do the test Tom mentions, you need an air hose run all the way to the truck, if it's not in your shop ... and I think you said it was out in the field? I suggest the compression guage . . .it's a bit more portable and will do the preliminary testing. >> It can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. I would look >> into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder, make sure that [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > that would be what budd mentioned with squirting the oil in #5 yes? Yes, it is. I just gave a description instead of the name since you are new to auto mechanics. Trying to not cause confusion for you. > If the >> compression does not improve with a wet test, you probably have a damaged [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > the manual said 16 -- and it sounds good -- but i'll check my chilton > manual today -- had that on my list to do -- budd told me 10-12 degrees 10-12 will get you started a bit easier and load the battery down a little less while cranking. >>> set curb idle to 825-875 (about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5) >>> set fast idle to 1700 [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Possessed and switch with its twin's old stuff, keep the twin with the > body work to do Don't throw the block away until you've pulled the head ( watch out!!! It's heavy!!!) and looked at the bores. If there's no serious scoring ( a fingernail catches on them) then it's not likely to need much overbore if any. My first /6 had 133,000 miles on it and the bores had 0.002" wear. The rod throws and mains were worn only 0.0005". Knocked out the ridge, honed the bores and put in all standard sized parts. Btw, a quick way to boost compression is to mill the head up to 1/10 of an inch. It raises the static compression ratio one full point. > this april i have to > - fix starter and flywheel in 87 4x4 dakota, do a bunch of body work and [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > rach Budd >>>> Hi guys, >>>> [quoted text clipped - 197 lines] > > Budd Distributor pick up will sometimes act that way. Is 12 volts still available at the coil when the engine stalls? I have seen corroded terminals in the bulkhead connector or the ignition switch wiring connector produce similar symptoms. I may have missed some of this thread. Just offering some ideas I didn't see. The slant 6 is a good motor. Like the older ones with solid lifters and a 2-barrel carb better. Had to run one with three weak cylinders for a couple years until funds were available to get another. >>> That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you >>> have a compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > By way of explanation, if the valve is burnt or bent, this will not > help you. You will still need to pull the head. To remove a valve, yes, the head has to come off. If you only want to change the valve springs or seals without removing the head and you don't have an air compressor there is another way. Remove the push rods or rockers and spark plug, then roll the crankshaft until the piston is all the way down. Feed a foot or two of clothes line into the spark plug hole. Leave some of the rope hanging out of the hole so you can get it back out when you are finished. Turn the crankshaft (by hand) until the piston pushes the rope up against the valves. The rope will hold the valves closed allowing you to remove the springs and seals. SignatureKen T-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. Besides, bad valve seals won't drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. Another possibility, but pretty rare on /6's is a blown head gasket. Usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them, which is why I don't suspect it with her engine. SignatureBudd Cochran >>>> That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you >>>> have a compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > hand) until the piston pushes the rope up against the valves. The rope > will hold the valves closed allowing you to remove the springs and seals. > T-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. Besides, > bad valve seals won't drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. Another > possibility, but pretty rare on /6's is a blown head gasket. Usually they > blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them, > which is why I don't suspect it with her engine. I didn't mention anything because there is nothing to do. If it has a bad valve, that's it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust, just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. Where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap? Replacing valve seals, retainers, and springs is what the tool was intended for, not what I am having her use it for. Perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >> T-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. >> Besides, bad valve seals won't drop the cylinder pressure to 55 [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > springs is what the tool was intended for, not what I am having her > use it for. Perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. Perhaps you should take that reading class. SignatureKen Hey Nosey, GFY! SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > >> T-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. > >> Besides, bad valve seals won't drop the cylinder pressure to 55 [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Perhaps you should take that reading class. > Hey Nosey, GFY! :-) LOL SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > Hey Nosey, GFY! > > :-) > Perhaps a first grade > reading class is in order. Perhaps then you would write more clearly. Let us know when you've completed it. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> T-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. > Besides, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > intended for, not what I am having her use it for. Perhaps a first grade > reading class is in order. Why from you, Tom. Rach mentions a dead cylinder and you start talking about using air to change springs and seals. So explain how changing the springs and seals are gonna help her dead cylinder? Btw, you missed where she decided to work on the other truck because of the dead cylinder in this one. SignatureBudd Cochran John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9 "Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for the government of any other." (John Adams) >> T-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. > Besides, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > intended for, not what I am having her use it for. Perhaps a first grade > reading class is in order. Once again Budd, you see only what you want to see. I gave her a description of what the tool was intended for so she could say it to the salesman if she wanted to buy one. I then went on to explain how to use that tool to help her diagnose what failed on that cylinder. It had nothing to do with changing seals or springs but feel free to show me exactly where I said to do either one or is this just another one of your all too typical false accusations? BTW, why are you replying to me? SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Why from you, Tom. > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com *** > >>> Hi guys, > >>> [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > the block will tell you if you have spark. Dwell meters are hard to find > since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but I have a very old one. BG That would require someone else cranking the engine and the risk of being shocked. Most timing lights have long enough wires to bring it into the cab with you and hold the trigger while cranking and if not, a simple rubber band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock. > >>> I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor > >>> tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] > By way of explanation, if the valve is burnt or bent, this will not help > you. You will still need to pull the head. But the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this, to see where the air is leaking from. > > holy sh.t is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and > > am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > field? I suggest the compression guage . . .it's a bit more portable and > will do the preliminary testing. I guess reading isn't your thing. If you look above, you will see some compression numbers. How do you think she got them, here is a hint, a COMPRESSION GUAGE. The test I suggested using the air chuck will help to determine where the air is going. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >> >>> Hi guys, >> >>> [quoted text clipped - 60 lines] > band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you > can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock. ROTFLMBO!!!! Gee, Tom, haven't you the cerebral cellular matter to think of: 1) holdng it by the insulating boot 2) holding it with a pair of insulated handle pliers 3) using a remote starter button 4) shorting the solenoid relay with a screwdriver 5) having a friend or loved one crank the engine ????? Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . >> >>> I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor >> >>> tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new [quoted text clipped - 60 lines] > to > see where the air is leaking from. If a wet cranking test shows no improvement, then the head needs to be pulled anyway, so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it all back up? >> > holy sh.t is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal >> > and [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > COMPRESSION GUAGE. The test I suggested using the air chuck will help to > determine where the air is going. And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, including reading. IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, why don't you buy her a few hundred yards of hose, a huge compressor to supply the pressure / volume at that distance and have it all shipped internationally to Canada . . .I'm sure she'll appreciate the gift. Alternatively, you could just send her a huge extension cord . . . . . SignatureBudd Cochran John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9 "Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for the government of any other." (John Adams) > >> >>> Hi guys, > >> >>> [quoted text clipped - 76 lines] > > ????? But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. Do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20,000 volts. Does she already have a remote start button? Does she know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF she is too far away from the metal, it will arc back to her anyway. The timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. It appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. > Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . And yet, far more than you seem to be sometimes. > >> >>> I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor > >> >>> tomorrow by tearing up the tape, but I have had some help from my new [quoted text clipped - 64 lines] > pulled anyway, so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it > all back up? Why? Since she claimed this to be a throw away motor, if the problem is just a burned valve, who cares. Let it run that way until she gets rid of it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to depend on it as it may completely fail and get her stuck. > >> > holy sh.t is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal > >> > and [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, > including reading. And this from the one who uses the excuse of not being politically correct as a defense for treating others like crap. > IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, why > don't you buy her a few hundred yards of hose, a huge compressor to supply > the pressure / volume at that distance and have it all shipped > internationally to Canada . . .I'm sure she'll appreciate the gift. > Alternatively, you could just send her a huge extension cord . . . . . You are kidding, right?!?!?! You hardly need a huge compressor to do this and if she intends to repair the vehicle then she will need to more it to an area where she has tools and light anyway. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >> >> >>> Hi guys, >> >> >>> [quoted text clipped - 97 lines] > really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold > back 20,000 volts. Quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore, Tom. > Does she already have a remote start button? Does she > know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > one > that just posts to argue. No, Tom, that would only be you since you've posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me. >> Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . > > And yet, far more than you seem to be sometimes. Really? I'm not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic. >> >> >>> I AM going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to > distributor [quoted text clipped - 80 lines] > Why? Since she claimed this to be a throw away motor, if the problem is > just a burned valve, who cares. Obviously, not you, that's for certain. > Let it run that way until she gets rid of > it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to > depend > on it as it may completely fail and get her stuck. And you completely missed or ignored her post about not swapping engines now and the one about the location of the truck. >> >> > holy sh.t is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal >> >> > and [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > And this from the one who uses the excuse of not being politically correct > as a defense for treating others like crap. It's not an excuse, Tom, I'm not politically correct and you will always get from me what you dish out. >> IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, why >> don't you buy her a few hundred yards of hose, a huge compressor to [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > an > area where she has tools and light anyway. I see English is still not your forte' . . .but I have to assume you mean she needs to "move" the vehicle. Unless I'm mistaken, this is the truck stuck in deep snow mentioned in another post, so moving it would be difficult if not impossible right now. Again, you ignore previously posted info and plunge forward with your crap expecting everything to be as you say it should be. Go back to you assaults and insults, Tom. It's truly your calling in life. SignatureBudd Cochran John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9 "Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for the government of any other." (John Adams) > > But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. Do > > you > > really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold > > back 20,000 volts. > > Quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore, Tom. I don't buy cheep tools Budd. At best, they will cause even more damage to what you are working on and at worst, they can seriously injure you while doing it. If you knew even half of what you claim to you would know that the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all. > > Does she already have a remote start button? Does she > > know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to > you in a month or better from me. Sorry Budd, but you really are standing on thin ice here. You are the one making most of the attacks lately, even if you try to hide behind replying to others posts. > >> Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . > > > > And yet, far more than you seem to be sometimes. > > Really? I'm not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic. Sure you are, like when you suggested she use a compression guage to determine what was leaking, especially after she already performed that test to get the readings. My advice simply allowed her to determine why #5 had such poor compression and there was nothing useless about it. > >> > But the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing > > this, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Obviously, not you, that's for certain. You are correct, I don't. Why should I if she doesn't. It's only a motor that she intended to dump anyway, not someones life or even only means of transportation. > > Let it run that way until she gets rid of > > it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > And you completely missed or ignored her post about not swapping engines now > and the one about the location of the truck. Trucks can be towed if needed and unless she swaps that one out, she will have to rebuild it. > >> And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, > >> including reading. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > It's not an excuse, Tom, I'm not politically correct and you will always get > from me what you dish out. Now that is just a lie. You are more times than not the one that dishes it out. You may call it politically incorrect, I just call it ignorant. > >> IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, why > >> don't you buy her a few hundred yards of hose, a huge compressor to [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > stuck in deep snow mentioned in another post, so moving it would be > difficult if not impossible right now. LOL, reduced to attacking me on typos huh! Is that all you got? If the truck is currently so stuck, what is the point of fixing it if it cannot get out of where it is anyway? > Again, you ignore previously posted info and plunge forward with your crap > expecting everything to be as you say it should be. Do you mean like your rewrite of Ohms laws, Mr the voltage drop goes down as current increases. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >> > But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. >> > Do [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from > electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all. Really?? Then why are the vinyl rubber grips on my Craftman tools given a insulation rating BY THE MANUFACTURER, WESTERN FORGE AND BY CRAFTSMAN? Why have I been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110, 220, and 440 volt LIVE wires as a millwright? How come I can hold a plug wire on a capacitor discharge ignition BY THE BOOT OR THE WIRE INSULATION and check for spark? What's the voltage rating for a single layer (3 mil) of vinyl electrical tape . . . go ahead, cheat and look on the package, I'd rather you get this one right for your own safety. You do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the world's population are hypersensitive to electrical shock and can't touch an ignition system at all when the engine is running, don't you? Btw, I also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my step-dad with no insulation. The knurled grip handles don't slip as bad as the rubber handles when greasy. Now, to make sure you understand that I do know the effects of ignition sparks, I test the point type ignition Briggs, Kohler, Tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the primary wires. The resultant spark is only about 3000 volts, but if I get a spark at all the coil is good. Occasionally, I get bit by them. >> > Does she already have a remote start button? Does she >> > know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > making most of the attacks lately, even if you try to hide behind replying > to others posts. ROTFLMBO!!!!! It's really funny , Tom, that you and theguy complained I was always attacking so I quit. and now your doing it to me and to Max. >> >> Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . >> > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > to get the readings. My advice simply allowed her to determine why #5 had > such poor compression and there was nothing useless about it. Your test, Tom, from talks with Rach via email, aren't practical for her to do and I tried to tell you that.I wasn't "correcting" or slamming you at all. But you took offense anyway, so you screwed up, Tom. You assumed inccorectly. Now shove it where the sun don't shine. >> >> > But the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing >> > this, [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > that she intended to dump anyway, not someones life or even only means of > transportation. Be honest, Tom, the only one you care about at all is yourself. >> > Let it run that way until she gets rid of >> > it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Trucks can be towed if needed and unless she swaps that one out, she will > have to rebuild it. Did you see the post about digging out snow to pull an engine??? That was this truck, Tom. >> >> And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, >> >> including reading. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > it > out. You may call it politically incorrect, I just call it ignorant. stick and stones, Tom. >> >> IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, > why [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > get > out of where it is anyway? I was just making sure my powers to read your mind were working yet and I see I can still read greeting cards. Your English is atrocious, period, either accept that you will be corrected at times or take a remedial course. Back to the topic, it was the same truck she wanted to pull the engine on . . get this thru your skull, and REPAIR before changing her mind. SignatureBudd Cochran John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9 "Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for the government of any other." (John Adams) > >> > But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. > >> > Do [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Really?? Then why are the vinyl rubber grips on my Craftman tools given a > insulation rating BY THE MANUFACTURER, WESTERN FORGE AND BY CRAFTSMAN? Perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of pliers. I did say most, not all. > Why have I been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110, 220, and 440 > volt LIVE wires as a millwright? How come I can hold a plug wire on a > capacitor discharge ignition BY THE BOOT OR THE WIRE INSULATION and check > for spark? Anyone who works on live wire unless it is absolutely necessary is an idiot, period and a millwright does not have to. I have to work in live boxes on occasion but not on live wires. While I also have linesman pliers that are insulation rated, most of my others are not, probably because the rubber is more porus to prevent them from becomming slippery when exposed to greese and oil which would also reduce their insulating ability by a considerable amount. > What's the voltage rating for a single layer (3 mil) of vinyl electrical > tape . . . go ahead, cheat and look on the package, I'd rather you get this > one right for your own safety. Did you wrap your handles in vinyl "electrical" tape and if not, what is your point? Since you really don't have a clue when it comes to electrical circuits as made clear by your voltage drop reduction when current increases statement (completely the opposite of fact), you really should just shut up here. > You do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the world's population are > hypersensitive to electrical shock and can't touch an ignition system at all > when the engine is running, don't you? I didn't know the percentages but since I am one of them... Perhaps that is why I use other methods to check for spark. > Btw, I also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my > step-dad with no insulation. The knurled grip handles don't slip as bad as > the rubber handles when greasy. That would be because the rubber on those handles were intended for insulation, not better grip like most others are. -- blabber snipped -- > >> > Does she already have a remote start button? Does she > >> > know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > It's really funny , Tom, that you and theguy complained I was always > attacking so I quit. and now your doing it to me and to Max. Really, when did that happen. It sure didn't in this thread or the way you are treating the others in Caravan thread. Speaking of theguy, could you be any more twofaced. When he took the other side in the political discussions, he was your new best friend but the minute that crap ended, suddenly he was the enemy again. You make it clear where your true motivation lies. > >> >> Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . > >> > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > all. But you took offense anyway, so you screwed up, Tom. You assumed > inccorectly. Sorry Budd, but calling it useless information is nothing more than slamming and if you don't realise this, then you really are an idiot. > Now shove it where the sun don't shine. How immature. > >> >> > But the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing > >> > this, [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Be honest, Tom, the only one you care about at all is yourself. You are entitled to your opinion but as usual with you, it is both childish and wrong. > >> > Let it run that way until she gets rid of > >> > it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Did you see the post about digging out snow to pull an engine??? That was > this truck, Tom. So what, I simply gave her a means to find out what was wrong with that cylinder. Whether it was practical for her to do it at this time is not the issue. Are you really this shallow Budd that you have to be jealous over something like this. > >> >> And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, > >> >> including reading. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > stick and stones, Tom. Sorry Budd, but the way you are acting in this thread makes what I said a fact, not an insult. > >> >> IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, > > why [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > see I can still read greeting cards. Your English is atrocious, period, > either accept that you will be corrected at times or take a remedial course. Back to the lame insults again, huh Budd. While you may think of my English as atrocious, at least I understand what I read, unlike you and your new Budds Law, LOL! Between you and Maxi's perpetual motion machine, the two of you should be able to end all our dependency on oil of any kind. To bad you are both full of sh.t. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >> >> > But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. >> >> > Do [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > Perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of > pliers. I did say most, not all. ROTFLMBO!!!!! Right, Tom, you know all the secrets of Craftsman, Western Forge, Rigid, Channelock, Proto, Snap-On, and so on. . . . You really should do some research. >> Why have I been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110, 220, > and 440 [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > idiot, > period and a millwright does not have to. Ah, you were there, were you? Shows how little you know of reality. > I have to work in live boxes on > occasion but not on live wires. What makes a box "live" and the wires inside them not "live", Tom? > While I also have linesman pliers that are > insulation rated, most of my others are not, probably because the rubber > is > more porus to prevent them from becomming slippery when exposed to greese > and oil which would also reduce their insulating ability by a considerable > amount. Aha . . .you bought non-rated tools deliberately so "most" tools are not rated. I see your reasoning now. >> What's the voltage rating for a single layer (3 mil) of vinyl electrical >> tape . . . go ahead, cheat and look on the package, I'd rather you get [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > up > here. So you don't know, after all. It should be you shutting up if you're dumb enough to work with non-rated tools on any wire, live or not. A friend of mine was knocked off a press when a set-up man turned the juice back on after removing the safety tag. The next day we were issued padlocks. (Btw, industry standard for 3 mil vinyl electrical tape is 15,000 volts / layer.) >> You do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the world's population > are [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > is > why I use other methods to check for spark. Then don't assume everyone has to do it your way. You are the exception to the norm, not the norm. >> Btw, I also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my >> step-dad with no insulation. The knurled grip handles don't slip as bad [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > That would be because the rubber on those handles were intended for > insulation, not better grip like most others are. Here again, you make assumptions based on your choisce of tools. None of my pliers, except ones for non electrical use, are un-rated, but that's because I worked with high voltages for ten years. > -- blabber snipped -- --fact reinserted-- Now, to make sure you understand that I do know the effects of ignition sparks, I test the point type ignition Briggs, Kohler, Tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the primary wires. The resultant spark is only about 3000 volts, but if I get a spark at all the coil is good. Occasionally, I get bit by them. I put this in, Tom, not just for you, but for anyone reading the post. If the plug lead is held, in some safe manner, with a gap of 3/16" or less, it is a good way to test a lawn mower coil. >> >> > Does she already have a remote start button? Does she >> >> > know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Really, when did that happen. ah, your infamous selective memory again. > It sure didn't in this thread or the way you > are treating the others in Caravan thread. Oh??? In which reply to you in the caravan thred have I attacked you? > Speaking of theguy, could you be > any more twofaced. When he took the other side in the political > discussions, he was your new best friend but the minute that crap ended, > suddenly he was the enemy again. You make it clear where your true > motivation lies. To agree with someone does not make them a friend. I have agreed with you several times, but you do not wish to be a friend so you will not be considered one at all. >> >> >> Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . >> >> > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > slamming > and if you don't realise this, then you really are an idiot. Sorry, Tom, but useless information is useless information, a point you have claimed about information I gave in the past. My intent was to inform you as to the situation rach was in, but since the situation matters not to you, you made the info I gave you as useless as yours was for her. There was no slam intended towards you, but you'll never see it or accept it. >> Now shove it where the sun don't shine. > > How immature. How so? Does the sun shine in your basement? inside the trees outside your house? inside a can of peaches? if you assumed I meant aywhere else then it is you that is immature. >> >> >> > But the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of > doing [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > childish > and wrong. Not from what we see of you here. >> >> > Let it run that way until she gets rid of >> >> > it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > So what, I simply gave her a means to find out what was wrong with that > cylinder. True. I agree with this and did so all along. > Whether it was practical for her to do it at this time is not the > issue. Wrong, Tom. It is the issue. What good is advice that cannot be implemented even if it is the best advice? Advice that is usable is much more productive for all. > Are you really this shallow Budd that you have to be jealous over > something like this. What is there to jealous of? You gave good advice but not for the situation. I tried to explain the situation and you get mad. >> >> >> And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among > others, [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Sorry Budd, but the way you are acting in this thread makes what I said a > fact, not an insult. In your biased opinion. >> >> >> IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . > .so, [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > Back to the lame insults again, huh Budd. I thought it to be imaginative, myself, and only a tease, but I forgot you take everything as an insult even when someone agrees with you. > While you may think of my English > as atrocious, at least I understand what I read, unlike you and your new [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > you > are both full of sh.t. Too bad that like Matt and Bill you think you education places you in a higher class of society than everyone else. That you are too good to be told that your advice is inappropriate for the situation. I'm done with you, go play. SignatureBudd Cochran John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9 "Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for the government of any other." (John Adams) > > Perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of > > pliers. I did say most, not all. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Right, Tom, you know all the secrets of Craftsman, Western Forge, Rigid, > Channelock, Proto, Snap-On, and so on. . . . Nope, and neither do you. > You really should do some research. PKB there Budd, PKB. > >> Why have I been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110, 220, > > and 440 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Ah, you were there, were you? Nope, and I didn't have to be and the fact that you didn't come up with one of your fantastic stories shows you have no valid reason either, that is if you did it at all. > Shows how little you know of reality. No, it demonstraites you ignorance and stupidity. But please, prove me wrong and show me exactly why you needed to do it. > > I have to work in live boxes on > > occasion but not on live wires. > > What makes a box "live" and the wires inside them not "live", Tom? You are kidding, right????? But just in case your not, if there is voltage being applied to the buss bars, the box is hot but until the wires are actually connected to an activated breaker or directly to the buss, they are not. When you pull new lines to the box they are not connected to anything and by definition, are not live. > > While I also have linesman pliers that are > > insulation rated, most of my others are not, probably because the rubber [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Aha . . .you bought non-rated tools deliberately so "most" tools are not > rated. I see your reasoning now. No, I bought tools designed for their purpose and many of my pliers have rubber covers on their handles and are clearly labled that their grips are not designed for electrical protection but then again, they don't get slippery when they get dirty either. My linesman pliers OTOH, have smooth grips and do get slippery when exposed to greese or wire lube. > >> What's the voltage rating for a single layer (3 mil) of vinyl electrical > >> tape . . . go ahead, cheat and look on the package, I'd rather you get [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > mine was knocked off a press when a set-up man turned the juice back on > after removing the safety tag. The next day we were issued padlocks. I have pliers and cutters that are rated for electrical use but I don't normally use them on my vehicles. I bet your friend would have been knocked on his a.s anyway because he was probably touching things with his bare hands which is expected when the power is shut down. He should have used a padlock anyway and the one who removed the tag should have been fired. > (Btw, industry standard for 3 mil vinyl electrical tape is 15,000 volts / > layer.) And the point is? > >> You do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the world's population > > are [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Then don't assume everyone has to do it your way. You are the exception to > the norm, not the norm. It is better to assume on the side of safety rather than get someone hurt. And you say that I don't care about anyone but myself. > >> Btw, I also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my > >> step-dad with no insulation. The knurled grip handles don't slip as bad [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > pliers, except ones for non electrical use, are un-rated, but that's because > I worked with high voltages for ten years. You have done a lot of jobs and they all seem to be between 5 and 10 years. You must be well over 100 by now. > > -- blabber snipped -- > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > about 3000 volts, but if I get a spark at all the coil is good. > Occasionally, I get bit by them. Big deal, your bite is still a minimum of 1/5th the zap she could get from that automotive ignition and that would only be 1 spark compared to 6 or more at 10 times the voltage her truck could zap her with. > I put this in, Tom, not just for you, but for anyone reading the post. If > the plug lead is held, in some safe manner, with a gap of 3/16" or less, it > is a good way to test a lawn mower coil. And you accuse me of giving useless information. At least mine was on topic. > >> > Sorry Budd, but you really are standing on thin ice here. You are the > > one [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > ah, your infamous selective memory again. And your typical spin while offering absolutely no proof to back your accusation at all. > > It sure didn't in this thread or the way you > > are treating the others in Caravan thread. > > Oh??? In which reply to you in the caravan thred have I attacked you? Where did I say you did it to me but you sure did with the other two. > > Speaking of theguy, could you be > > any more twofaced. When he took the other side in the political [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > several times, but you do not wish to be a friend so you will not be > considered one at all. Really, name 3 times. You did call him "friend" back then but the soon as he stopped attacking me.... It seems that the only ones you call friend are the ones that agree with you. > > Sorry Budd, but calling it useless information is nothing more than > > slamming [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > to the situation rach was in, but since the situation matters not to you, > you made the info I gave you as useless as yours was for her. Funny, when did you get the job of determining what information is of use to whom? And even if that were true, who made it your job to inform me or anyone else? IF I kept hammering that point after being told that she couldn't do it then maybe, but that is not what happened. And then you give information about testing a small engine coil, LOL, talk about useless. > There was no slam intended towards you, but you'll never see it or accept > it. Because if no slam was intended, what was the point of saying anything at all. Face it Budd, a slam was what it was, simple as that. > >> Now shove it where the sun don't shine. > > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > house? inside a can of peaches? if you assumed I meant aywhere else then it > is you that is immature. Your spin is getting weak Budd. It doesn't matter where you meant when you said shove it, the fact that you said it at all was what was immature and you know where you meant as you have said the same to me many times. > > So what, I simply gave her a means to find out what was wrong with that > > cylinder. > > True. I agree with this and did so all along. Now that is a lie. You actually made complaints about needing a compressor and suggested using a compression guage which WAS completely useless information and incorrect as well. > > Whether it was practical for her to do it at this time is not the > > issue. > > Wrong, Tom. It is the issue. What good is advice that cannot be implemented > even if it is the best advice? Advice that is usable is much more productive > for all. Because eventually, she is going to have to move the truck by some means and when she does, then she can perform the test if she actually wants to diagnose it further. > > Are you really this shallow Budd that you have to be jealous over > > something like this. > > What is there to jealous of? You gave good advice but not for the situation. > I tried to explain the situation and you get mad. The point Budd is that it is not your job to to explain the situation since you are not the OP. Unless of course, you are running for the position of net nannie. > > Sorry Budd, but the way you are acting in this thread makes what I said a > > fact, not an insult. > > In your biased opinion. How is it a biased opinion? > >> I was just making sure my powers to read your mind were working yet and I > >> see I can still read greeting cards. Your English is atrocious, period, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I thought it to be imaginative, myself, and only a tease, but I forgot you > take everything as an insult even when someone agrees with you. Why is it that you can say anything you want and it is only a tease but if anyone does it to you, it is an unforgivable personal attack. > > While you may think of my English > > as atrocious, at least I understand what I read, unlike you and your new [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Too bad that like Matt and Bill you think you education places you in a > higher class of society than everyone else. I think no such thing Budd and when do you ever even hear me talk about it. There are plenty of people both smarter and with better educations than I have and plenty who are not as smart and have less. The difference between us is I don't attack those that have less or think myself superior to those who have more and you do both although more of the latter. > I'm done with you, go play. Yea, sure. I have heard that one before. You may be done now because you don't have a valid argument and I hope so for your sake. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > >> Hi guys, > >> [quoted text clipped - 90 lines] > to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that > strong -- i'll check on this while at napa ive always used the hose from my compression tester for that. you just have to remove the shrader valve. my compression tester has a fitting that my air hose will plug right onto, works great. Signature-Chris > i love you guys! > [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] > > rach > That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you have a > compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor > to > the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to > allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. First, using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. Use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. Safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesn't bleed past the rings too fast..... WHICH IT WILL DO given the compression reading. But I have to ask, how the hell are new stem seals going to help compression? Why are you even suggesting somehting like that regarding a low cylinder pressure reading? > It can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. Sure it can, but it won't tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. > I would look > into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder, make sure that #5 > it is on its compression stroke, hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure > and > see what happens. If you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust, you > have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. Um, NO. If its an exhaust valve, what you've suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat, causing more damage. If its an intake valve, what you've suggested can result in backfire through the intake, which has no good effects at all. > If > it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > connecting rod and I would not trust or use that motor without further > inspection. A bent connecting rod in a slant six is >almost< impossible, and certainly would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur. >> -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees > > That sounds a bit over advanced. Not on a slant six. >> set curb idle to 825-875 (about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5) >> set fast idle to 1700 > > Fast Idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current > problems. Fully agree, 1700 is way too high for idle speed. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> Hi guys, >> [quoted text clipped - 120 lines] > > Good luck. > First, using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. > Use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the > piston up against it to hold the valves closed. Safer and easier than > hoping the air prssure doesn't bleed past the rings too fast..... Or that you don't have it exactly at TDC, in which case the air blows the piston back down... usually right after you remove the keeper :) If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > First, using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. > > Use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Or that you don't have it exactly at TDC, in which case the air blows the > piston back down... usually right after you remove the keeper :) LOL, if the rocker arms were removed, who cares. The pressure will still not drop enough to let the valves fall but then again, nobody is suggesting replacing springs or seals anyway. The tool is only being used to determine what, if anything, is leaking. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you have a > > compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > piston up against it to hold the valves closed. Safer and easier than hoping > the air prssure doesn't bleed past the rings too fast..... Are you really this desperate Max. Who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. I was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one, she can tell the salesman what it is used for since I don't remember its name. > WHICH IT WILL DO given the compression reading. That is the whole idea, to find out where the pressure is going. > But I have to ask, how the hell are new stem seals going to help > compression? Why are you even suggesting somehting like that regarding a low > cylinder pressure reading? I am doing no such thing, moron. It is a TEST TO SEE WHERE THE AIR IS GOING IF ANYWHERE AT ALL. Perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete a.s out of yourself. > > It can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. > > Sure it can, but it won't tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a > leak down tester. LOL, it will show you where you are leaking from. I guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. > > I would look > > into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder, make sure that #5 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > you've suggested can result in backfire through the intake, which has no > good effects at all. Hahahahaha, you really are a retard. How is pushing 100lbs of air into a non-running engine going to cause either one of these conditions? You do know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed, right???? > > If > > it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > A bent connecting rod in a slant six is >almost< impossible, and certainly > would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur. WRONG!!!! It can happen, I have seen it and it caused NO NOISE AT ALL and I never said it was the most likely cause of the problem, only that it could and is far more likely than your bad battery in the other thread. > >> -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees > > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Fully agree, 1700 is way too high for idle speed. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Are you really this desperate Max. Who the hell is telling her to replace > either seals or springs. I was explainig the purpose of the tool so in > case > she wants to get one, she can tell the salesman what it is used for since > I > don't remember its name. Its a leakdown tester, something you would know if you..... well if you knew. But you don't. > I am doing no such thing, moron. It is a TEST TO SEE WHERE THE AIR IS > GOING > IF ANYWHERE AT ALL. Perhaps you should read the whole thing before making > a > complete a.s out of yourself. Perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a complete a.s of yourself. >> Sure it can, but it won't tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a >> leak down tester. > > LOL, it will show you where you are leaking from. I guess your engine > diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. Yeah, which would put it far higher than either one of yours. >> > see what happens. If you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust, > you [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed, > right???? YOU claim the following: >> > see what happens. If you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust, > you >> > have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. My point is, she CANNOT "get by with that for a while" without risking serious damage to the cylinder head. Try reading before you make an a.s of yourself. >> A bent connecting rod in a slant six is >almost< impossible, and >> certainly [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > never said it was the most likely cause of the problem, only that it could > and is far more likely than your bad battery in the other thread. No noise at all, despite having a 4.125" stroke that would have the rod slapping the piston skirt? No noise at all, despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore? Yeah, ok... sure. We'll chalk this one up to your overall credibility. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> > That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you have a >> > compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect your [quoted text clipped - 98 lines] >> >> Fully agree, 1700 is way too high for idle speed. > > Are you really this desperate Max. Who the hell is telling her to replace > > either seals or springs. I was explainig the purpose of the tool so in [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Its a leakdown tester, something you would know if you..... well if you > knew. But you don't. Once again Max, you got it wrong. It is called an Air Hold Fitting and a set costs around $6. A leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. A leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. Now who is the one that doesn't know. > > I am doing no such thing, moron. It is a TEST TO SEE WHERE THE AIR IS > > GOING [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a > complete a.s of yourself. I must say Max, you do make me laugh when it is you are once again the one doing just that. > >> Sure it can, but it won't tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a > >> leak down tester. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Yeah, which would put it far higher than either one of yours. Sure battery boy, whatever you say. I guess that goes along with your cold air from a compressor burning valve seats. > >> > see what happens. If you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust, > > you [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > you > >> > have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. That is correct. It will help determine if a valve and which one (if not both) have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve. > My point is, she CANNOT "get by with that for a while" without risking > serious damage to the cylinder head. Try reading before you make an a.s of > yourself. That is not what you said so perhaps you should write more clearly. The point is that since the cylinder is already down to 50lbs, the damage has already been done and she has made the claim that the engine is a throwaway anyway so who cares about additional damage and with only 50lbs of compression, I doubt it will get much worse now anyway. Once again, you accuse me of doing what you are doing right now. > >> A bent connecting rod in a slant six is >almost< impossible, and > >> certainly [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > No noise at all, despite having a 4.125" stroke that would have the rod > slapping the piston skirt? Hahahaha, now that would depend on where it bent and how much, wouldn't it. > No noise at all, despite cocking the piston in > the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of > friction in the bore? Once again, that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird a.s. > Yeah, ok... sure. We'll chalk this one up to your overall credibility. The sad thing here Max is that between this and the Caravan thread you are rapidly losing any possible credibility you thought you had but don't let that worry you since you don't really have any anyway. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Once again Max, you got it wrong. It is called an Air Hold Fitting and a > set costs around $6. A leakdown tester is more in the price range between [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > just > as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. Now who is the one that doesn't know. Why spend so much time (let alone $6) on dragging an air hose out to the engine if its already failed? You defeat your own argument here. > That is correct. It will help determine if a valve and which one (if not > both) have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to > backfire or burn an exhaust valve. Yeah, you made thta observation before, and I wasn't taking issue with that. Maybe its that reading problem you have? > Hahahaha, now that would depend on where it bent and how much, wouldn't > it. Yup, and it wouldn't take much, because its not going to bend "just a little bit" once its started. On a stroke that long its going to club that rod to death, making all sorts of noise in the process. >> No noise at all, despite cocking the piston in >> the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of >> friction in the bore? > > Once again, that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird a.s. Once again you've got no facts to back up you inane claims, just stupid colloquailisms that mean nothing and are irrelevant. Sadly, its getting easier to drive you to that point. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> > Are you really this desperate Max. Who the hell is telling her to > replace [quoted text clipped - 121 lines] > rapidly losing any possible credibility you thought you had but don't let > that worry you since you don't really have any anyway. > > Once again Max, you got it wrong. It is called an Air Hold Fitting and a > > set costs around $6. A leakdown tester is more in the price range between [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Why spend so much time (let alone $6) on dragging an air hose out to the > engine if its already failed? You defeat your own argument here. LOL, is that all you got? I guess its better than admitting to error. > > That is correct. It will help determine if a valve and which one (if not > > both) have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to > > backfire or burn an exhaust valve. > > Yeah, you made thta observation before, and I wasn't taking issue with that. > Maybe its that reading problem you have? It is probably more in line with your writing ability. > > Hahahaha, now that would depend on where it bent and how much, wouldn't > > it. > > Yup, and it wouldn't take much, because its not going to bend "just a little > bit" once its started. Care to back that one up? > On a stroke that long its going to club that rod to > death, making all sorts of noise in the process. Once again, you make claims that you can in no way back up. > >> No noise at all, despite cocking the piston in > >> the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Once again you've got no facts to back up you inane claims, just stupid > colloquailisms that mean nothing and are irrelevant. You are the one making claims here and have yet to back up a single one. I know you and Budd like to accuse the other one of doing what you are to try and throw the other readers off as to who is screwing up but you do it so often that it really doesn't work anymore. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >>> That is NOT GOOD. You may have a real problem with #5. Do you have a >>> compressor? If so, they make a fitting for it to connect your [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > she wants to get one, she can tell the salesman what it is used for since I > don't remember its name. <snip> That's OK -- when I explained what I wanted, he knew right away. I almost always get help from the manager -- he is best at reading my mind :-) My late hubby always ordered his parts for the company he worked for for 18 years -- the biggest used parts place in Gatineau (several acres and multimillion) -- he was very honest and well liked -- they all take care of me like family -- his company and his contacts. I am very lucky. ...and since I have to ask for parts in English, when I can tell him what it's for, he knows what I mean <chuckle> If I knew the name of the part, it probably wouldn't help either <grn> Rach Hi everyone! Thank you so much for your help. I have a lot to go through -- which will keep me busy -- and I added a formatted version on my website so I can go print it at the library I also figured if anyone had similar problems in future it might be a reference for them to check Here's the link: http://www3.sympatico.ca/rske/dodgetrucks/86ish_D150.html I'll keep you all posted rach > Hi guys, > [quoted text clipped - 78 lines] > > rach Hi! Great news -- I complied the thread as some of you know, and the engine advice will be very helpful now and in future. It is now running. I did get some help from my new boyfriend (who shares renovation skills with me) and used to do some mechanics 25 ye |
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