'93 Dakota, trouble codes 12,55 sitting for 8months

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Matt - 29 Apr 2006 20:44 GMT

I have a 1993 Dakota LE that, 8 months ago, the tensioner for the belt
broke off and I just got around to replacing it today. It has been sitting
there for 8 months with out being started. After replacing it tensioner,
belt and the air filter (a family of mice had made a home around the outside
the filter) I tried to start it up and it wouldn't do anything. Most of the
lights were pretty dim so I pulled my wife's car up next to it and tried to
give it a jump. The lights were much brighter and it looked like the battery
had a good charge. This time when I turned the key it could heard a clicking
from the engine. Any ideas what that could be? Did I just not give it enough
time to fully boost or could it be something more dire?

When the old tensioner broke off it went down with some force and
knocked the lower radiator hose off, I have replaced that as well. The
Ignition Coil is right behind the tensioner, I'm wondering if it's possible
it may have gotten damaged at the same time.

What is the Trouble Code 12? I have heard it is "Battery feed to ECM"
I have also heard that it is basically the "Begin error codes" like the 55
code is "end error codes" which is correct?

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone may be able to offer.

-Matt

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Coasty - 30 Apr 2006 00:06 GMT

Follow the link and all shall be revealed.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html

Coasty

> I have a 1993 Dakota LE that, 8 months ago, the tensioner for the
> belt broke off and I just got around to replacing it today. It has been
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> -Matt

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Marsh grassman Monster - 30 Apr 2006 00:34 GMT

> I have a 1993 Dakota LE that, 8 months ago, the tensioner for the belt
> broke off and I just got around to replacing it today. It has been sitting
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> -Matt

========
========

Code 12 is a "battery disconect" code.
define both words, add definitions, get answer.

As for the symptom.......
I would suggest using a fully charged battery with clean connections
before doing anything else.

~:~
MarshMonster
~wonders if you know that the ole AutoZonedOut store charges dead
batteries
before they test them.....ahem~

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GeekBoy - 30 Apr 2006 01:12 GMT

>> I have a 1993 Dakota LE that, 8 months ago, the tensioner for the belt
>> broke off and I just got around to replacing it today. It has been
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> I would suggest using a fully charged battery with clean connections
> before doing anything else.

Not just a fully charges battery, but one with fully operational cells.

> ~:~
> MarshMonster
> ~wonders if you know that the ole AutoZonedOut store charges dead
> batteries
> before they test them.....ahem~

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Tom Lawrence - 30 Apr 2006 01:13 GMT

> give it a jump. The lights were much brighter and it looked like the
> battery had a good charge. This time when I turned the key it could heard
> a clicking from the engine. Any ideas what that could be?

Yep... not enough juice to engage the starter.

> Did I just not give it enough time to fully boost or could it be
> something more dire?

Yep. It could also be that the battery's toast, and won't take a charge
anymore.

> When the old tensioner broke off it went down with some force and
> knocked the lower radiator hose off, I have replaced that as well.

We remember you trying to destroy your engine by driving it with no
coolant...

> Ignition Coil is right behind the tensioner, I'm wondering if it's
> possible it may have gotten damaged at the same time.

A bad ignition system makes the engine go "rrrrRRRRrrr rrrRRRRrrr
rrrRRRRrrr", really fast. A bad/weak battery makes it go "click click
click".

> What is the Trouble Code 12?

Amazingly enough.... bad battery. Technically, it means the PCM saw a loss
of power within the last 50 key cycles. Probably happened sometime between
parking it and first trying to start it. If the voltage drops below about
10V, the PCM goes a little haywire.

> Thanks in advance for any advice anyone may be able to offer.

Treat your truck to a new battery, make sure it's got coolant back in it,
and hope you didn't warp the head by overheating it. Run it with the
radiator cap removed, because you're going to have a nice big air pocket in
there. Once the engine comes up to temp, and the thermostat opens, the air
should purge out. Expect some coolant to come out of the top of the
radiator - have a bucket there to catch it. Once it runs for several
minutes at operating temp., shut it down, top off the radiator, put the cap
on, and fill the overflow tank to it's indicated level for 'HOT'.

Again - cross your fingers that the engine doesn't overheat, doesn't blow
white smoke out the tailpipe, or the oil doesn't turn a milky-brown color
(all signs of a failed head gasket).

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Matt - 01 May 2006 01:59 GMT

So I need to take the radiator cap off fill it with 50/50 coolant/water
first? You said to have a bucket ready to catch the coolant, how exactly do
I do that since it will be coming out the top of the radiator?

Thanks again,
Matt

> Treat your truck to a new battery, make sure it's got coolant back in it,
> and hope you didn't warp the head by overheating it. Run it with the
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> white smoke out the tailpipe, or the oil doesn't turn a milky-brown color
> (all signs of a failed head gasket).

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TBone - 01 May 2006 03:35 GMT

It is called gravity. The fluid will run down the side of the radiator so
keep the bucket under the radiator below the opening.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving

> So I need to take the radiator cap off fill it with 50/50 coolant/water
> first? You said to have a bucket ready to catch the coolant, how exactly do
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> > white smoke out the tailpipe, or the oil doesn't turn a milky-brown color
> > (all signs of a failed head gasket).

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Matt - 01 May 2006 04:04 GMT

Ah, ok. So we're talking an "overflowing beer", not a "volcanic eruption"
here.. gotcha

> It is called gravity. The fluid will run down the side of the radiator so
> keep the bucket under the radiator below the opening.

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TBone - 01 May 2006 12:30 GMT

Pretty much, It may spit a little but you can stop that by either putting a
rag over the opening or leave the cap on loose so the fluid can run past it.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving

> Ah, ok. So we're talking an "overflowing beer", not a "volcanic eruption"
> here.. gotcha
>
> > It is called gravity. The fluid will run down the side of the radiator so
> > keep the bucket under the radiator below the opening.

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Matt - 02 May 2006 05:22 GMT

Just an update, I did what you guys told me to do (along with a little help
from my father) and she's back up and running like she was 8+ months ago.
Doesn't seem to be any white smoke or anything. Now I just need to wash and
wax it and change the oil.

Thanks again for all of the advice!!

-Matt

> Pretty much, It may spit a little but you can stop that by either putting
> a
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> so
>> > keep the bucket under the radiator below the opening.

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Tom Lawrence - 02 May 2006 07:48 GMT

> Just an update, I did what you guys told me to do (along with a little
> help from my father) and she's back up and running like she was 8+ months
> ago. Doesn't seem to be any white smoke or anything. Now I just need to
> wash and wax it and change the oil.

Good. Keep an eye on the level of coolant in the overflow. For the next
couple of weeks, make a habit to check it each morning before you start it
up, and make sure the level isn't dropping.

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