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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / May 2006A/C recharge on 01 TD 2500?
I have a 2001 2500 Cummins td with 6-speed manual. A/C worked last fall, now it does not. Clutch did not engage, indicating low pressure. I have the manifold guages and an adapter to tap the can of R-134a. I connected it up and the pressure was low and the same on high and low side. I tried to charge with a can of refrigerant and the clutch on the compressor now engages for very short periods - a few seconds, but it does not seem to want to take a charge. The R-134a can is upright - correct? Do I need to evacuate the system before charging? I looked at a vacuum pump (pneumatic) at Harbor Freight last week, but it had an R-12 connector on it, so it did not seem as if that would do much good. Maybe they rent these at Checker Auto? I have had good luck charging the older R-12 systems with hydrocarbon (alcane) refrigerants. In this case you do not evacuate the system and you hold the can upside down. I can use the same refrigerant on this truck but since it is designed for R-134a and I can buy this readily, I would like to stick with the right stuff. Any advice on stop-leak? Thanks for any advice, Charles >I have a 2001 2500 Cummins td with 6-speed manual. A/C worked last fall, >now it does not. [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > >Charles A couple of pointer here. First the pressure will be the same on the high and low side when the system is not running. The fact that it is cycling, tells me it is still low on R134a. If it was low enough not to run, it will likely take around two cans (give or take). ALso as you add it in upright possition the can will chill quickly and lower the internal pressure and greatly slow down the rate of charge. Try placing the can in a pan of hot water as you charge it as it will slow the cooling of the can and speed the charging. (it will not exploded and the water will be quite cool when can is empty from its cooling effect). While it is hard to say what your exact pressure should be (it varies with temp and humidity) It should be around 30 to 40 PSI on low side and about 160 to 200 on high side when running at a idle with AIR on full. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com > I have a 2001 2500 Cummins td with 6-speed manual. A/C worked last fall, > now it does not. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > The R-134a can is upright - correct? Correct for a 12oz. can, incorrect for a 30lb. jug. > Do I need to evacuate the system before charging? I looked at a vacuum > pump (pneumatic) at Harbor Freight last week, but it had an R-12 > connector on it, so it did not seem as if that would do much good. Evacuation has nothing to do with whether or not refrigerant will charge back into the system and everything to do with removal of contaminants from the system. > Maybe they rent these at Checker Auto? I gotta wonder if the droids at Checker even know what a Micron gauge actually is? ;-) > I have had good luck charging the older R-12 systems with hydrocarbon > (alcane) refrigerants. In this case you do not evacuate the system and > you hold the can upside down. I can use the same refrigerant on this > truck but since it is designed for R-134a and I can buy this readily, I > would like to stick with the right stuff. What country are you located in? > Any advice on stop-leak? Great for totally destroying many things including; Vehicle AC systems Recovery and recycling equipment. > Thanks for any advice, Advice would be to pay someone with the proper schooling to fix your AC. Something tells me that the unasked question is; how do I get the R-134a from the can into the trucks system? No? >Correct for a 12oz. can, incorrect for a 30lb. jug. Now this is silly for two reasons Fiest the 30lb bottle has more mass and would cool slower so it would maintain pressure longer vs a can and inverted it would inject liquid like a can would which has to be done carefully and not for the inexperianced. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com > >Correct for a 12oz. can, incorrect for a 30lb. jug. > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > The SnoMan > www.thesnoman.com You should probably go look at a 30lb. jug of R-134a, they are clearly labeled as to which end should be up for vapor versus liquid. (IOWs, you're dead wrong) Otherwise, totally agree on the part about inexperienced. >> >Correct for a 12oz. can, incorrect for a 30lb. jug. >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Otherwise, totally agree on the part about inexperienced. Last I saw they quit manufacturing 30 pound cans with a dip tube so you could draw liquid with the can upright, too much confusion. R410A was configured like this also, but no longer. No problems charging liquid, IF you know what you are doing! I almost always charge liquid, but then I do it on a daily basis! As for the OP, he has a leak, and it should be repaired before adding refrigerant. I don't feel this is a DIY job in this case. Greg > >> >Correct for a 12oz. can, incorrect for a 30lb. jug. > >> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > refrigerant. I don't feel this is a DIY job in this case. > Greg By this point, it is never a DIY job as the only way for it to be low is for there to be a leak.  SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving >No problems charging liquid, IF you know what you are doing! I almost always >charge liquid, As do I and have for many years but I would not recommand it to a novice. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com but point still is. this guy seems to be in experianced with a/c systems. not only is it nessasary to know what you are doing, but it can also be dangerous not only to the vehicle but to yourself also if you do not know what you are doing. i highly reccomend taking it to a qualified service center. Signature-Chris 05 CTD 06 Liberty CRD > >No problems charging liquid, IF you know what you are doing! I almost always > >charge liquid, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > The SnoMan > www.thesnoman.com >> >Correct for a 12oz. can, incorrect for a 30lb. jug. >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Otherwise, totally agree on the part about inexperienced. Last jug I saw side right side up for vapor, upside down for liquid. (BTW, I have a few refigerant jug here too and I have only been messing with them for 30 years too) ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com you only got maybe 8-10 oz in those little 12oz cans,, put in some more.. if a system is empty i usually run a vacume on it and be sure it holds it for 15 minutes ,then fill. those pumps you hook to a compressor work well . lucas http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm If you have stop leak Through it in the trash DO NOT USE IT it stops the leak maybe but it plugs everything else up too. Don't go anywhere near the 134 system with R12 >I have a 2001 2500 Cummins td with 6-speed manual. A/C worked last fall, > now it does not. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > compressor now engages for very short periods - a few seconds, but it > does not seem to want to take a charge. * What were the Hi and Lo pressure readings before you started, what was the ambient temperature and what type of fan was installed in front of the condenser while filling? > The R-134a can is upright - correct? * Never ever invert the can to shoot liquid in the system it will destroy the compressor > Do I need to evacuate the system before charging? I looked at a vacuum > pump (pneumatic) at Harbor Freight last week, but it had an R-12 > connector on it, so it did not seem as if that would do much good. * If you buy a Vac pump new it does not matter which fitting is on it because you use the fill fitting (standard schreader) on your guages to evac the system to 500 microns. > Maybe they rent these at Checker Auto? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > truck but since it is designed for R-134a and I can buy this readily, I > would like to stick with the right stuff. * If you have a leak more than likely it is the O-rings at the connectors between the fire wall and condensor or any place thet are located on the connections. You should have the system evacuated all o-rings replaced and then refilled with the exact r-134a as per MFGR. > Any advice on stop-leak? * Not in any life time should you ever use that crap, the only thing other than refrigerant used in the system is a refrigerant dye to look for leaks under a black light. > Thanks for any advice, * It sounds like you are just trying to save a buck like all of us, however it would be prudent to get some good books and do some serious reading on AC&R especially automotive and it would be advisable to get your EPA cert as required by Federal Law to work on the system. http://experts.about.com/q/Auto-Air-Conditioning-1591/index.htm and http://www.keep-it-kool.com/ good luck > Charles Coasty >>I have a 2001 2500 Cummins td with 6-speed manual. A/C worked last fall, >> now it does not. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > * Never ever invert the can to shoot liquid in the system it will destroy > the compressor Never? Maybe never for the DIY guy, but I rarely charge with vapor. It depends on the system, and where the ports are. On a automotive system, if the ports are at the compressor then I probably would not venture to try charge liquid. If the port is Back at the evaporator coil the liquid will flash to a gas before it gets to the compressor, unless you are really pounding it in! Greg >>>I have a 2001 2500 Cummins td with 6-speed manual. A/C worked last fall, >>> now it does not. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > really pounding it in! > Greg It is better to be safe than sorry especially in auto ac systems. On the other hand when filling a 400ton low pressure chiller with R123 liquid is the only way to go when the thing holds 350 lbs. Coasty |
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