OK, please help me with a different question. I've got a 95 1500 with a 5.3L
engine. 88K miles. Occasionally, the check engine light comes on. Sometimes
when I start it and sometimes when it's been running. it doesn't stay on.
Before a go to the local stealer, can anyone tell me the different reasons
the light may come on? It got a new cat installed at about 65K miles (still
under the warranty). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
> > > Just bought a 04' Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab from a local dealership. I
> > > drive away from the lot and after about 25 minutes of driving notice
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Catalytic Convertor which is still under warranty but they say there is
> absolutely nothing wrong with it.
> OK, please help me with a different question. I've got a 95 1500 with a
> 5.3L
There's your problem - someone transplanted a Chevy engine into your Dodge
:)
(It's a 5.2L engine, aka 318cu.in.)
> engine. 88K miles. Occasionally, the check engine light comes on.
> Sometimes
> when I start it and sometimes when it's been running. it doesn't stay on.
You can check the codes yourself. See here for details:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/pcm_fault_code.htm
Christopher Thompson - 27 Jun 2006 04:56 GMT
> > OK, please help me with a different question. I've got a 95 1500 with a
> > 5.3L
>
> There's your problem - someone transplanted a Chevy engine into your Dodge
> :)
> (It's a 5.2L engine, aka 318cu.in.)
or maybe someone decided that they wanted to have a good looking body on
their chevy. *grin*

Signature
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD
Real trucks don't need spark plugs
> > engine. 88K miles. Occasionally, the check engine light comes on.
> > Sometimes
> > when I start it and sometimes when it's been running. it doesn't stay on.
>
> You can check the codes yourself. See here for details:
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/pcm_fault_code.htm
E - 27 Jun 2006 13:44 GMT
Thanks Tom for that link. Sorry about the liter conversion - I knew it was a
318. The process of retrieving the codes worked. I got:
31: EVAP Solenoid Circuit - Short or open in the EVAP solenoid circuit.
Check for loose, broken, or shorted wire in the charcoal canister purge
solenoid wiring and connectors.
37: Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or Trans temp sensor too high or
low - Open or short in CKT wiring or connectors. Voltage out of range at
transmission temperature sensor input. From the 1995 TRUCK (Ram) manuals:
the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while
the standard package doesn't. The fault code detection system is probably
the same for both models. This could cause the low (no) voltage
indication....no sensor to send any voltage.
So if this is a intermittent problem, would it appear this is just a loose
wire or could this be something much worse? Hate going to the stealer here.
When I took it in for a 60K check up, I mistakenly forgot to ask what it
would cost. When they called me 5 hours later, I went to pick it up and they
gave me a bill for $1200+. They did not fix anything, that was just for the
routine maintenance (replace fluids, spark plugs, etc.) After I picked
myself off the floor, went to the bank for a personal loan, I vowed never to
go back. I'd like to be able to fix this myself if possible. Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks.
> > OK, please help me with a different question. I've got a 95 1500 with a
> > 5.3L
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> You can check the codes yourself. See here for details:
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/pcm_fault_code.htm
Tom Lawrence - 27 Jun 2006 14:01 GMT
> So if this is a intermittent problem, would it appear this is just a loose
> wire or could this be something much worse?
Okay - it's the code 31 that's setting the check engine light. The code 37
won't light it. I used to have a code 37 on my '95 V10 all the time... the
big cooling system kept the trans fluid cool enough that it would trip the
code. If you don't notice your torque converter clutch mis-behaving, I
wouldn't worry about it.
As for the evap. solenoid, well - check the wiring, and test the solenoid
for proper resistance (should be >100ohms). If it isn't, replace the
solenoid.
E - 27 Jun 2006 16:04 GMT
Thank you sir. I really appreciate your help.
> > So if this is a intermittent problem, would it appear this is just a loose
> > wire or could this be something much worse?
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> for proper resistance (should be >100ohms). If it isn't, replace the
> solenoid.
E - 28 Jun 2006 16:41 GMT
geez i feel so stupid. i looked last night for the charcoal canister under
the hood and could not find it. i'm used to a round coffee can like canister
and i did not see anything like that under the hood. is it hidden? or does
it look different from canisters i'm used to seeing? i feel like a fool even
asking this question.
> > So if this is a intermittent problem, would it appear this is just a loose
> > wire or could this be something much worse?
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> for proper resistance (should be >100ohms). If it isn't, replace the
> solenoid.
Tom Lawrence - 28 Jun 2006 20:23 GMT
> geez i feel so stupid. i looked last night for the charcoal canister under
> the hood and could not find it. i'm used to a round coffee can like
> canister
passenger-side frame rail. It's rectangular.