yes its common for the rears to start howling. as far as prices maybe
someone else who has rebuilt thiers can tell you. now as far as suprises i
dont remember any on the last one i did. pritty standard rear i believe.

---
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real trucks don't need spark plugs

You'll need one "special" tool - that's the rear adjuster tool.  Instead of
shims, the Chrysler 9.25" uses a threaded adjuster nut on each side to set
backlash and carrier bearing preload.  I made mine from a 4' piece of 3/4"
pipe, a 1/2"-drive socket, and a spindle nut.  The adjusters can be backed
off with a punch (they have holes in them that you can engage and lever
against), but you need the tool to tighten to specific torque values.  If
you have the means to make your own (just need the listed components, and a
welder), you can remove the diff, remove an adjuster, and find the
proper-sized nut (about 1.5" or so) to fit in the hex opening of the
adjuster.  If not, you can buy this tool from a decent R&P shop (Randy's
Ring and Pinion sells them, for example).

The 9.25" also uses a crush sleeve to set the pinion pre-load.  You'll need
a pretty powerful impact gun, or a BIG breaker bar to get the spacer to
start collapsing.  You'll also need to hold the yoke still while you do
this.  A big pipe wrench, and a length of pipe to fit over the wrench and
wedge against the ground, will suffice.  Once you overcome the initial
torque and get the spacer to start collapsing, go nice and slow with
torquing the pinion nut down, checking the rotational torque frequently.  If
you go too tight, you have to start over with a new crush sleeve.  Make sure
to get a few of these, just in case.

While you have the axle all apart, you should get new axle bearings as well.
You'll need a slide hammer with internal puller legs to remove them.
Measure their depth inside the axle (I seem to remember they're set in
.600"), and drive the new ones in with a socket to the same depth (not
super-critical on the depth - give or take .010" or so).

Some torque specs (should really have the factory service manual, though):

Bearing cap bolts - 100ft.lbs. (once backlash is set)
Pinion nut - 210ft.lbs. (starting torque - continue to torque until proper
rotating torque is achieved)
Pinion rotating torque (new bearings) - 15 - 35 in.lbs.
Ring gear bolts - 115 ft.lbs.
Backlash - .005" - .008"
Preload adjusters - 75ft.lbs.

I've done a few 9.25" axles for friends - Randy's R&P
(http://www.ring-pinion.com) is where I've always ordered the stuff.  Decent
prices, but more importantly, good quality gears and installation kits.

Auburn.  About $350 or so

Two things:

#1 - Check everything.  I swore my 9.25" was dead once the howl was so
unbearable.  Ended up being a trashed u-joint - was jammed up tight
enough the crawl-under-and-shake test didn't work, the only way I could
find it was jacking the truck up and watching the drive shaft.

#2 - Houston is one big junkyard.  You should be able to find a used
axle dirt cheap, and they're not that hard to swap if its a dud.  I was
able to get a 21k mile flood-damage-total NV3500 for about the same as
the dealer quoted for just the base overhaul parts.

If you plan to keep the truck forever I'd say overhaul it with the best
parts you can afford but otherwise IMO its just not worth it...

JS