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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / July 2006

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Oil PSI gauge - T Fitting

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brian - 12 Jul 2006 00:02 GMT
I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
working i need to use a T-Fitting at the sending unit.  The gauge I
bought is a mechanical oil gauge. THe orignal oil gauge works, but I
like the look of the other gauges in the truck also.  Would a T-fitting
work?  If it does what size do I need to get?  Also where is the right
place to put the coolant temperature sender for the new gauge at.  Took
out one coolant sensor and the hole was to small.  There looks to be
another but its in one heck of a place to get to, right next to the
coolant hose.  Is there anywhere else I could put it, the instructions
said there could be someother place to put the sender than the coolant
sensor, but it don't say where.

I would Appreciate any help,

Brian
.boB - 12 Jul 2006 01:30 GMT
> I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Brian

    Augmenting or replacing the factory gauges is a good idea.  They are not always
as accurate as they could be.

    Yes, a T fitting will do fine.  It's usually a 1/8" NPT.  SOmetimes you have to
use a short piece of pipe to extend it out far enough for clearance.  ANother trick
is to go to a shop that makes hydraulic hoses.  They can make you a short piece of
hydraulic hose with the correct fittings on each end.  Then use a clamp to put the
senders anywhere you want.

    You should not remove any of the factory water temp senders.  The computer needs
those.  Again, you can use a T fitting.  It's best to put it as close to the
thermostat as possible.  Some people have placed it in the heater line.  But that's
not as reactive and accurate as it should be.  You want to be measuring the water
temp as it exits the engine - through the thermostat and out the upper radiator hose.

    Summit and Jegs both sell an inline petcock.  It's designed to go in the lower
radiator hose.  You could remove the petcock, add the temp sensor, and then install
it in the upper hose.

Signature

.boB
Arrived:  2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged   Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
    1HD1GEL10VY3200010    CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

Bryan - 12 Jul 2006 02:21 GMT
> > I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> > understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> radiator hose.  You could remove the petcock, add the temp sensor, and then install
> it in the upper hose.

I concur with what Bob said.  In addition, you would do yourself a favor by
using copper tubing to interface the oil pressure gauge (instead of the
cheesy plastic tubing supplied with the gauge).  This is because the plastic
tubing has a propensity to fracture, and then leak hot oil.  Soft-drawn
copper tubing is much better in that regard, and can be obtained from just
about any auto parts store -- use the 1/8" OD size. When you install it,
dress it with at least a half-turn loop at the engine, to allow for movement
by the engine.

Bryan
brian - 12 Jul 2006 04:01 GMT
> > I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> > understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
> 1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

I read that some ram engines like the V10 have 2 temp senders.  One is
for the gauge and one is for the computer.  The book don't show but one
sender for the 5.2L, but I noticed 2 on mine.  One has only one wire
coming from it, and the other has 2 wires.  I don't won't to cause a
check engine light or the engine not running right because of taking
one sender out.   How do you install the temp sender into the hose
without it leaking, or how do you install the petcock?  Its all new to
me.  If there is a simple way to hook up the sender just so it works
i'll do that.  The factory gauge works fine, so i'm not really
concerned about the new temp gauge.  I just want the oil to work right.
Thanks,
Brian
.boB - 12 Jul 2006 05:06 GMT
>>     Summit and Jegs both sell an inline petcock.  It's designed to go in the lower
>>radiator hose.  You could remove the petcock, add the temp sensor, and then install
>>it in the upper hose.

> I read that some ram engines like the V10 have 2 temp senders.  One is
> for the gauge and one is for the computer.  The book don't show but one
> sender for the 5.2L, but I noticed 2 on mine.  One has only one wire
> coming from it, and the other has 2 wires.  

   Better check your factory service manual before disconnecting anything.

> How do you install the temp sender into the hose
> without it leaking, or how do you install the petcock?  

   The inline petcock comes as a short piece of alum pipe, with a bung welded in to
the middle.  You cut the hose in half, insert the pipe, and re-assemble with hose
clamps.  Unscrew the petcock, screw in the temp sensor.
     I have one of these drains in the lower radiator hose on my Cobra.  Been there
for over 4,500 miles - many of them hard track miles - without any problem at all.

Signature

.boB
Arrived:  2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged   Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
    1HD1GEL10VY3200010    CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

Big Al - 12 Jul 2006 07:17 GMT
> > I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> > understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> hydraulic hose with the correct fittings on each end.  Then use a clamp to put the
> senders anywhere you want.

The oil sender in a 92 has to be grounded. It has both the gauge and light
contacts in it. And you need a very deep 1 1/16" socket to get it out. My
special sender socket is not deep enough.

I would use an 1/8" pipe tee and a short pipe nipple. All in brass. It's
going to de a challenge to get the oil line connected to it where it's
located.

Al
brian - 12 Jul 2006 14:12 GMT
> > > I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> > > understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> Al

I looked at the sender, its in a pretty tight place to get to.  I going
to take it to a garage and let them hook up the oil psi gauge becase i
could't even get any of my tools to it.

Brian
brian - 12 Jul 2006 15:55 GMT
> > I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> > understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
> 1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

I went and look at the engine as to where to place the temp sender.
The place around the thermostat is almost impossible to get to and even
worse getting a wrench in there.  I'm thinking about doing it the
fastest and easest way, putting it in the heater hose.  Its very easy
to get to.  I'm going to cut the hose and insert a piece where I can
bolt the sender in and it will be in the coolant all the time. Now if I
so this which heater hose should i put the sender in - the return hose?
I'm not really to concered about the water temp gauge, the factory is
working fine and it has a pretty new temp sender.

Thanks, Brian
brian - 13 Jul 2006 00:24 GMT
> > > I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8.  I
> > > understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light
[quoted text clipped - 52 lines]
>
> Thanks, Brian

I noticed a shut off(I think) on the inlet heater hose before it
reaches the firewall.  If the heater is off there is no coolant flowing
thur it.  So i should't place it in the return hose.  The shut off
turns the coolant back into the engine.  Is this right?
.boB - 13 Jul 2006 05:29 GMT
> I noticed a shut off(I think) on the inlet heater hose before it
> reaches the firewall.  If the heater is off there is no coolant flowing
> thur it.  So i should't place it in the return hose.  The shut off
> turns the coolant back into the engine.  Is this right?

   No, it just shuts it off.

Signature

.boB
Arrived:  2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged   Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
    1HD1GEL10VY3200010    CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

brian - 14 Jul 2006 03:44 GMT
> > I noticed a shut off(I think) on the inlet heater hose before it
> > reaches the firewall.  If the heater is off there is no coolant flowing
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
> 1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

Went to hardware store and got a tee and installed it in the hose and
bolted in the sender.  Everthing works, no leaks. The factory temp
gauge was up to almost 1/4 onm te gauge, (has only C & H readings)  the
new temp got to about 155.

Thanks a bushel for the help,
brian
 
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