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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / July 2006

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04 Dodge Ram 1500 lift kit problem

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HomeBrewer - 22 Jul 2006 13:11 GMT
I just installed the 2002-05 RAM 1500 4WD 6” PERFORMANCE SYSTEM made by
Fabtech and put 35x12.5 BFG MTs and 17x9 MT classic II rims (see pic
here: http://members.cox.net/85cj7/images/NWFb.jpg and
http://members.cox.net/85cj7/images/NWFb2.jpg ). and I have 3 major
problems:

1). I had the truck aligned before installing the lift (according to
lift instructions) and all was fine. I installed the fabtech lift and
the truck is now pulling hard to the right. I had the Dodge dealer align
the front end and it is still pulling to the right. I returned it to the
dealer and had them verify and it is within (factory) specs. Did the
fabtech lift change the specs on the camber, caster, and/or toe? I will
contact Fabtech directly about this, but I doubt they will admit to it.
I think they would have included this in the instructions if the specs
changed, right? If they can't supply the new specs - how do I correct
the problem? Can I get a shop other that the dealer to align the truck
without using factory specs - or - is there no place to start then?

2). I have a vibration at 40-60MPH that is not very nice. (no changes
were made to the rear drive shaft, etc....)What components could cause
this? I had the tires balanced and they used the stick on lead weights
inside the rim. Are tires this big able to be balanced like that? I
thought there was something that goes inside the big tires that balances
them.

3). I had the dodge dealer recalibrate the computer / speedometer to
compensate for larger tires. Now the cruise control only works up to
45MPH (I can only turn on cruise below 40 MPH and then using the buttons
on the steering wheel accelerate up to 45MPH before it shuts off).
Again, I returned it to the dealer and they says it's not the computer
recalibration. They have never heard of the problem.  I know it has
something to do with the big tires and the computer recalibration,
because the cruise worked fine just before the recalibration.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.
SnoMan - 22 Jul 2006 14:52 GMT
>I just installed the 2002-05 RAM 1500 4WD 6” PERFORMANCE SYSTEM made by
>Fabtech and put 35x12.5 BFG MTs and 17x9 MT classic II rims (see pic
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>the problem? Can I get a shop other that the dealer to align the truck
>without using factory specs - or - is there no place to start then?

It will change the caster which can effect directional control and
bear in mind that the front end was NEVER disigned for the added
stress that this adds to vehcile some there will be issues. Have
dealer print out alignemnt setting on vehicle now and I can tell you
what to do because factory spec co out the wind with a lift. If you
want it to track right you will need to do some tweaking here.

>2). I have a vibration at 40-60MPH that is not very nice. (no changes
>were made to the rear drive shaft, etc....)What components could cause
>this? I had the tires balanced and they used the stick on lead weights
>inside the rim. Are tires this big able to be balanced like that? I
>thought there was something that goes inside the big tires that balances
>them.

With heavier and larger rotating masses it is harder to balance plus
ujoints in drive shfts are not constant velocity and they can cause
vibration at higher angle and the higher tourqe load on them from much
larger tires with stock gear makes it even worse.

>3). I had the dodge dealer recalibrate the computer / speedometer to
>compensate for larger tires. Now the cruise control only works up to
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>Any help or advice would be appreciated.

You need more the a speed calibration here. YOu effectively made your
final drive ratio about 2 steps taller and through in bigger tire drag
and your drive train will work a lot harder and your RPM is lowr at 40
than before becausethis (it is equal RPM wise to about 32 before the
lift) To fix this and make truck run a lot better you need at least
4.56's and 4.88 would be better still them recal speedo and such and
you will get what you are looking for and longer driveline life with
much better performance too.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
HomeBrewer - 23 Jul 2006 18:26 GMT
>>I just installed the 2002-05 RAM 1500 4WD 6” PERFORMANCE SYSTEM made by
>>Fabtech and put 35x12.5 BFG MTs and 17x9 MT classic II rims (see pic
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> what to do because factory spec co out the wind with a lift. If you
> want it to track right you will need to do some tweaking here.

Specs are:
Left Front:
Camber = -0.0° specified range = -0.5° 0.5°
Caster = 4.5° specified range = 4.0° 5.2°
Toe = 0.05° specified range 0.00° 0.10°

Right Front:
Camber = -0.2° specified range = -0.5° 0.5°
Caster = 4.2° specified range = 4.0° 5.2°
Toe = 0.06° specified range 0.00° 0.10°

>>2). I have a vibration at 40-60MPH that is not very nice. (no changes
>>were made to the rear drive shaft, etc....)What components could cause
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> you will get what you are looking for and longer driveline life with
> much better performance too.

What does this have to do with the computer controlled cruise control?
The cruise should work based solely on the speedometer -or- the wheel
speed sensor. Somethig is not programmed correctly allowing it to switch
off at 45MPH.

Snoman - I really appreciate any advice here, but you need to work on
spelling / typos before posting. I really don't understand some of your
info, even when using contextual clues.

> -----------------
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
SnoMan - 23 Jul 2006 20:05 GMT
>Specs are:
>Left Front:
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Caster = 4.2° specified range = 4.0° 5.2°
>Toe = 0.06° specified range 0.00° 0.10°

Okay for starters, you always put more caster in right side than left
because roads tend to be crowned and you are a tiny bit left side
heavy so that with crowns will tend to make it go right and the extra
caster takes care of that. Try leaving left side caster alone and
increase right caster to 5.0. If it still pulls, take left side down
to about 4.0. On the camber, I like to see more here because of lift.
Shoot for +.5 on both sides. The negative chamber on right side is
also helping it pull too. Toe looks good. If it wants to follow crack
after resetting caster and camber I will tell you what to tweak on
toe.

>What does this have to do with the computer controlled cruise control?
>The cruise should work based solely on the speedometer -or- the wheel
>speed sensor. Somethig is not programmed correctly allowing it to switch
>off at 45MPH.

It has everything to do with it because cruise control has a lower
engine RPM limit because of engine and transmission function. It is
this limit that determines the lower limit of it and when you
increased tire size without changing axle ratio (which you really need
to do here big time) you increased the relative vechicle speed at same
engine RPM vs with stock tires hense the higher minimum speed for
cruise. Follow now?

>Snoman - I really appreciate any advice here, but you need to work on
>spelling / typos before posting. I really don't understand some of your
>info, even when using contextual clues.

Sorry about the typo's. Some times it is me and sometimes it is this
wireless keyboard that I am using. Sometimes I press one letter and
get another but some of it is me. (I have a big monitor that I sit
back from with keyboard in my lap and mouse is wireless too)

>> -----------------
>> The SnoMan
>> www.thesnoman.com
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
HomeBrewer - 24 Jul 2006 03:17 GMT
>>Specs are:
>>Left Front:
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> after resetting caster and camber I will tell you what to tweak on
> toe.

OK, I'll try to get them to do the corrections - I need to make friends
with someone that has a machine, cause I can't afford $59.95 everytime I
need to tweak this thing.

>>What does this have to do with the computer controlled cruise control?
>>The cruise should work based solely on the speedometer -or- the wheel
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> engine RPM vs with stock tires hense the higher minimum speed for
> cruise. Follow now?

I am tracking.....somewhat. I know I need new gears, but I was under the
impression that the cruise would work directly with the speedo
recalibration. You are saying the cruise control works on engine RPM as
well as speed? Can't the dealer program around this?

>>Snoman - I really appreciate any advice here, but you need to work on
>>spelling / typos before posting. I really don't understand some of your
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> get another but some of it is me. (I have a big monitor that I sit
> back from with keyboard in my lap and mouse is wireless too)

NP - thanks again for the advice!

>>>-----------------
>>>The SnoMan
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
SnoMan - 24 Jul 2006 06:27 GMT
>OK, I'll try to get them to do the corrections - I need to make friends
>with someone that has a machine, cause I can't afford $59.95 everytime I
>need to tweak this thing.

You need to take it someplace where they warrant alignment for 90 or
180 days so you can get them the tweak it. Besides, they did not align
it correctly anyway. In the old days when I learned about it from old
timers, they would see how the car drove and check what it did and
then read the front end and adjust it to correct it based on
experiance. Today a alignment tech just follows spec and has no
creativety to tweak it correctly because they are not really running
the show per say as software is. Also factroy alignement specs are not
absolute because of production variances two cars may need to be
tweaked differently to do their best and as I said when you lift it,
factory specs are a guideline that you build on, not follow blindly.

>I am tracking.....somewhat. I know I need new gears, but I was under the
>impression that the cruise would work directly with the speedo
>recalibration. You are saying the cruise control works on engine RPM as
>well as speed? Can't the dealer program around this?

I guess you are not completely following me here or perhaps I am not
explaing it correctly.  You cannot program the engine to run cruise
control at a lower RPM because the tranny is part of the picture too
and it has its RPM input requirements to for minumum speed control and
gear and lockup as well. If you want cruise control to work again at
lower speed you will have to regear truck (which you need to do any
way) as they is no fix otherwise. The dealer programing just fixed
speedot. Shifts are happening at same general RPM as before but that
RPM yeilds higher speeds in each gear now and I will bet that OD right
now is about useless. Your car is acting the same it would if you had
stock tires and put taller gears in it.

>NP - thanks again for the advice!

Keep me posted because I know I can fix the pulling problem once we
get your truck dialed in proper. Do not feel bad, when I had my 2000
K3500 aligned for the first time last year, I took it back 3 times at
not charge before they got it right (they finally did what I told them
to do and it cured it) and it is still good today.  
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
Chris Thompson - 24 Jul 2006 16:30 GMT
>>OK, I'll try to get them to do the corrections - I need to make friends
>>with someone that has a machine, cause I can't afford $59.95 everytime I
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> gear and lockup as well. If you want cruise control to work again at
> lower speed you will have to regear truck

now see he's not the only one not following you because his complaint was
that the cruise would not work OVER 45 mph. how does minimum speed control
figure in?

Signature

----------------------------
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs.

(which you need to do any

> way) as they is no fix otherwise. The dealer programing just fixed
> speedot. Shifts are happening at same general RPM as before but that
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
SnoMan - 24 Jul 2006 17:19 GMT
>now see he's not the only one not following you because his complaint was
>that the cruise would not work OVER 45 mph. how does minimum speed control
>figure in?

That part is easy. With his tall tires with stock gears the engine
requires too much manifold pressure to cruise normally and the cruise
control will not engage unless the manifold pressure is above a
certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too low
and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part? People
install large lifts and tires with stock gear and expect a simple
programming to fix everything. His lift and tires is a lot and it is
overtaxing the drive train and its controls. If he would simply put
some 4.88 or deeper gears in it his troubles would go away and it
would aslo run a LOT better too. (there is more than just effective
gear ratio hear as there is the extra drag from lift and increased
rolling resistance of tires too.) What was a good cruise RPM with
stock tires and no lift no longer applies and you need a cruise RPM a
bit higher now to have more cruise power to overcome this added load.
Below is a link to a tire size/axle ratio calculator.  

http://www.snoman.com/HTML/axlecalc_5a.html
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
Tom Lawrence - 24 Jul 2006 17:57 GMT
> and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part? People
> install large lifts and tires with stock gear and expect a simple
> programming to fix everything.

That's funny, because my '99 Ram ran just fine with 35x14.5" Mickey's and a
4.5" lift, with the stock gears for a long time.  I simply corrected the
speedometer with a little electronic box (started with an Abbott ERA, but
switched to a Superlift Truspeed when I went up to 38's), and never had a
problem with cruise control - it would engage around 37-38MPH, and wouldn't
ever cut out (at least to 85MPH or so).
SnoMan - 24 Jul 2006 18:26 GMT
>> and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part? People
>> install large lifts and tires with stock gear and expect a simple
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>problem with cruise control - it would engage around 37-38MPH, and wouldn't
>ever cut out (at least to 85MPH or so).

Funny thing is you have a older car with older style control and I
know it is a slug without riding in it if it has stock gears. My
daughter DOHC Saturn would eat it up at higher speeds and my stock
K3500 would badly embarrass it at all speeds. I by a truck for power
not looks and I would not do any mod that would take that away and no
chip or air filter on tune will fix big tires and a lift, you needs
gears. If you feel you have good performance that just tell me that yu
have lower standards because the physics of it proves otherwise.  
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
Chris Thompson - 24 Jul 2006 18:53 GMT
wait now you talk about manifold pressures. fine I understand about
naturally aspirated engines. I do not claim to understand (without
researching it further) ALL of the factors the program looks at in order to
engage the cruise.  whether the MAP is one of those sensors for sure I'm not
going to comment on.

ALTHOUGH this has nothing to do with "minimum speed" so I ask again. what
does minimum speed have to do with not engaging over 45 mph?

I await an answer that actually has something to do with the minimum speed.

Signature

----------------------------
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs.

>
>>now see he's not the only one not following you because his complaint was
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
Tom Lawrence - 24 Jul 2006 20:02 GMT
> certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too low
> and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part?

And another thing...  why are you blabbing on and on about engine vacuum?
Let me quote you something from the '04 service manual:

5.7L Gas
The speed control system is fully electronically controlled by the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). A CABLE AND A VACUUM CONTROLLED SERVO ARE
NOT USED. This is a servo-less system. The controls consist of two steering
wheel mounted switches. The switches are labeled: ON/OFF, RES/ACCEL, SET,
COAST, and CANCEL. The system is designed to operate at speeds above 30 mph
(50 km/h).
SnoMan - 24 Jul 2006 21:41 GMT
>> certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too low
>> and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part?
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>COAST, and CANCEL. The system is designed to operate at speeds above 30 mph
>(50 km/h).

Tom, you are the one blabing here and you think that engien vacum has
not effect on been able to use cruise control. If the ECM thinks the
engine is laboring too much (MAP and RPM) it will not let cruise
engaged but you are likely one of those that want to beleive that
truck systems are immune to this stuff. BTW with his current setup he
will be turning about 1500 RPM in drive at 45 and a little over 1000
RPM in OD and no "Hemi" is going to what to pull that and the drag
with it in cruise control. I could even calculate how much power is
required and what is availble but you would think that is BS too
because you do not understand any of the physics here only your ego.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
Sweet Daddy Siki - 24 Jul 2006 22:17 GMT
>>> certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too
>>> low and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part?
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Tom, you are the one blabing here and you think that engien vacum has
> not effect on been able to use cruise control.

I think the vacuum is somewhere else, else?

If the ECM thinks the
> engine is laboring too much (MAP and RPM) it will not let cruise
> engaged but you are likely one of those that want to beleive that
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> required and what is availble but you would think that is BS too
> because you do not understand any of the physics here only your ego.

Give us a break.  You are book smart, but try the real man's world.

Sweet Daddy

> -----------------
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
TBone - 24 Jul 2006 22:52 GMT
Well snowman, here is the point that you seem to be missing.  IT DID WORK
PRIOR TO THE REPROGRAMMING according to the OP and unless a speedo
reprogramming somehow changed the load on the engine or the vacuum....

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

>
> >> certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too low
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
HomeBrewer - 24 Jul 2006 23:19 GMT
> Well snowman, here is the point that you seem to be missing.  IT DID WORK
> PRIOR TO THE REPROGRAMMING according to the OP and unless a speedo
> reprogramming somehow changed the load on the engine or the vacuum....

Actually I never tried the cruise before the reprogram...I really wish I had
now though!
HomeBrewer - 24 Jul 2006 23:26 GMT
> Actually I never tried the cruise before the reprogram...I really wish I
> had
> now though!

I didn't explain fully  - I took the truck on a 1000 mile road trip for the
4th of July, the cruise worked fine as it always has....on the 15th I
installed the lift / tires. I had the computer recalibrated after that and
the very next day I noticed the cruise didn't work properly. I know and
already planned on re-gearing the axles after the lift, but not until I can
afford it (2-3 months).  I assumed the speedo recal would fix the computer
with -or- without the gears.

I assume now that I will have to get the computer recalibrated again after
the re-gear?
Tom Lawrence - 24 Jul 2006 23:33 GMT
> I assume now that I will have to get the computer recalibrated again after
> the re-gear?

Actually, no - you won't.  Speed is determined by rear axle rotation speed,
which is directly related to the diameter of the tires.  Changing the gear
ratio won't change the number of revs per mile for your tire (probably
around 601 or so), so the speedometer will remain correct no matter what
gear ratio you put in.
HomeBrewer - 25 Jul 2006 02:40 GMT
Close, my tires do598 rotation per mile....and that's good to know. Thanks
for the info, now I am positive that the dealer screwed something up with
the computer.

>> I assume now that I will have to get the computer recalibrated again
>> after the re-gear?
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> (probably around 601 or so), so the speedometer will remain correct no
> matter what gear ratio you put in.
TBone - 25 Jul 2006 03:01 GMT
My mistake, I thought that I read that you did.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

> > Well snowman, here is the point that you seem to be missing.  IT DID WORK
> > PRIOR TO THE REPROGRAMMING according to the OP and unless a speedo
> > reprogramming somehow changed the load on the engine or the vacuum....
>
> Actually I never tried the cruise before the reprogram...I really wish I had
> now though!
Tom Lawrence - 24 Jul 2006 23:21 GMT
> Tom, you are the one blabing here and you think that engien vacum has
> not effect on been able to use cruise control.

You're the one who said, "cruise is vacum controlled too" (spelling mistake
and all).  I'm simply pointing out that you have no comprehension of the
systems you profess so much knowledge in.

> If the ECM thinks the engine is laboring too much (MAP and RPM) it will
> not let cruise
> engaged

But it is engaging just fine...  it's suddenly DISengaging at 45MPH.  I
believe the dealership screwed something up when they changed the pinion
factor in the PCM.  The only reasons the CC would automatically disengage is
if it thought the trans was in park or neutral, if the RPM increased rapidly
(like a clutch was disengaged in a M/T vehicle - N/A here), excessive engine
RPM (again, mostly a M/T issue), a speed signal that increases 10MPH/s
(spinning the tires), or a speed signal that decreases 10MPH/s (vehicle hit
something).  It will also disengage above 85MPH.

There's zero mention of engine vacuum as a cause of CC disengagement
anywhere in the FSM.  None.  Zip.  Nada.  The fact that hundreds of other
truck owners have upgraded to 35" tires (it's been a very popular upgrade)
without issue, also leads me to believe there's something "screwy" with his
particular truck.

> truck systems are immune to this stuff. BTW with his current setup he
> will be turning about 1500 RPM in drive at 45

Actually, 1700 - but let's not nitpick.

> and a little over 1000 RPM in OD

Which OD?  There's two of 'em, y'know...

So - if you're correct, and it's vacuum-related, he should be able to select
manual '2', engage CC at 40MPH, and accelerate via the CC controls up to
50MPH, no problem (that'll start him out at about 2500RPM, and finish up
about 3100RPM).  If it still cuts out at 45MPH, then what will your answer
be?
HomeBrewer - 25 Jul 2006 17:50 GMT
> So - if you're correct, and it's vacuum-related, he should be able to
> select
> manual '2', engage CC at 40MPH, and accelerate via the CC controls up to
> 50MPH, no problem (that'll start him out at about 2500RPM, and finish up
> about 3100RPM).  If it still cuts out at 45MPH, then what will your answer
> be?

I tried it . even in "2" with 3200 RPMs the cruise still shuts off at 40
MPH. In the service manual it says it is designed to work above 30 MPH, but
I was testing it this morning and had it set at 25MPH and it worked. I'm
baffled but the dealer is supposed to fix it on Thursday.
Tom Lawrence - 26 Jul 2006 00:17 GMT
> I tried it . even in "2" with 3200 RPMs the cruise still shuts off at 40
> MPH.

Yeah...  Definately a vacuum problem.  Def-def-definately.  Uh-oh...  three
minutes to Wapner...

Hey Snoman...  any other bright ideas?
theguy@whatever.net - 25 Jul 2006 01:16 GMT
>>> certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too low
>>> and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part?
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>required and what is availble but you would think that is BS too
>because you do not understand any of the physics here only your ego.

yeah, but he has a bigger gun than you do.

>-----------------
>The SnoMan
>www.thesnoman.com
azwiley1 - 25 Jul 2006 02:05 GMT
SnoMan,

   I am a professional installer of 12 volt aftermarket electronics and I
am here to tell you that engine vacuum has NOTHING to do with nor does it
effect (as you say) a completely ELECTRONIC cruise control, factory or
aftermarket.

   An electric cruise will (and does in most cases) get its signal for
vehicle speed from the VSS.  There are no vaccum lines hooked up anywhere on
the units, so explain to me how vaccum effects them?

>>> certain level when you select it. (what this means is vacum is too low
>>> and cruise is vacum controlled too) Did you get that part?
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
Chris Thompson - 25 Jul 2006 02:41 GMT
.
> SnoMan,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> vehicle speed from the VSS.  There are no vaccum lines hooked up anywhere
> on the units, so explain to me how vaccum effects them?

he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.

Signature

----------------------------
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs

azwiley1 - 25 Jul 2006 03:26 GMT
Chris,

   How is the wife liking the Liberty?  My wife and I are thinking about
getting one for her, with the CRD.

> .
>> SnoMan,
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.
Chris Thompson - 25 Jul 2006 04:20 GMT
she loves it. she's getting 22 - 25 mpg out of it driving to and from work.
she works about 30 miles away and drives interstate at 75 - 80 mph. if she
slows it down to 65 - 70 she gets better, closer to 30. I've read that the
liberty CRD will not see production for the 07 model year, something about
emissions. but they are going to introduce a diesel powered Grand that will
see mpg numbers closer to what the Cummins powered trucks are seeing.

Signature

----------------------------
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs.

> Chris,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>>
>> he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.
azwiley1 - 25 Jul 2006 04:32 GMT
That figures.  Come out with something that works and works well and when we
have a problem lets drop it instead of fixing it.  I guess my wife would be
happy though, as she has always loved the Grands.

> she loves it. she's getting 22 - 25 mpg out of it driving to and from
> work. she works about 30 miles away and drives interstate at 75 - 80 mph.
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>>>
>>> he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.
Chris Thompson - 25 Jul 2006 04:47 GMT
Tara would rather have the liberty than the Grand. easier to park. the grand
is close the size of the old durango and she says the liberty is much better
suited to running around in town than the durango was. food for thought. but
yes I agree its a shame that the CRD is seeing its end this year and I've
already sent my email to that affect, of course my little spill did nothing
to change minds but it made me feel better to have voiced my opinion on them
dropping it.

Signature

----------------------------
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs.

> That figures.  Come out with something that works and works well and when
> we have a problem lets drop it instead of fixing it.  I guess my wife
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>>>
>>>> he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.
Chris Thompson - 25 Jul 2006 04:43 GMT
Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs.
> she loves it. she's getting 22 - 25 mpg out of it driving to and from
> work. she works about 30 miles away and drives interstate at 75 - 80 mph.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> powered Grand that will see mpg numbers closer to what the Cummins powered
> trucks are seeing.

in addition when i told her about your question she said "HURRY!!!" she
highly recomends the CRD over the gas versions of the liberty.

here's the link to the article in USA TODAY.

http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2006-06-05-diesel_x.htm

> ----------------------------
> -Chris
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>>    How is the wife liking the Liberty?  My wife and I are thinking about
>> getting one for her, with the CRD.
azwiley1 - 25 Jul 2006 05:15 GMT
Thanks for the link.  Maybe we will be able to find a real good used one if
it comes down to that when we do this.
She also likes the Toyota Highlander, and since it will be HER vehicle not
mine, what ever she wants is what she will get.

> Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs.
>> she loves it. she's getting 22 - 25 mpg out of it driving to and from
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>>>    How is the wife liking the Liberty?  My wife and I are thinking about
>>> getting one for her, with the CRD.
JS - 25 Jul 2006 03:58 GMT
> .
>> SnoMan,
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.

He did.  His explanation made sense since I've seen the same thing on my
Hyundai.  Left the auto-stick in 4th (OD) and climbed a very steep hill
at 55 (1800 rpm or so, on a 2.7L V6, rolling weight about 4300#)...  It
pulled the accelerator to the floor, dropped out of lockup, kept losing
speed, and after a second or two the cruise "let go".  Luckily nobody
was behind me, else it might have been an embarrassing situation (its
embarrassing enough already, I drive a Hyundai SUV)

It has a Mitsubishi electronic cruise module controlled by the ECM - its
got a regular ol' throttle cable for the human interface.

Hmm, aren't the Hemis "throttle-by-wire" (I know the 4.7's are)?  This
would mean the cruise and "your foot" actually run the same servo on the
side of the throttle body, so therefore the problem wouldn't be the
servo unless the accelerator pedal didn't work either.

JS
Chris Thompson - 25 Jul 2006 04:24 GMT
.
>> .
>>> SnoMan,
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> JS

There's zero mention of engine vacuum as a cause of CC disengagement
anywhere in the FSM.  None.  Zip.  Nada.

as posted by Tom L.

further in an auto trans setup it should downshift to a lower gear to achive
the torque multiplication needed to maintain the speed (an autostick doesnt
do this as you select the gears like in a standard shift)
Signature

----------------------------
-Chris
05 CTD
06 Liberty CRD

Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs

JS - 25 Jul 2006 10:45 GMT
> .
>>> .
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> There's zero mention of engine vacuum as a cause of CC disengagement
> anywhere in the FSM.  None.  Zip.  Nada.

Weird.  I originally attributed mine to a potentially misadjusted cruise
cable (system freaking out due to the servo not being able to pull
farther).  I rarely leave it in manual shift mode when using the cruise
unless I'm locking it into 3rd in hilly terrain with 4 people in it...

> as posted by Tom L.
>
> further in an auto trans setup it should downshift to a lower gear to achive
> the torque multiplication needed to maintain the speed (an autostick doesnt
> do this as you select the gears like in a standard shift)

Yeah.  It can pull itself out of lock-up, but it won't downshift out of
4th until it drops under 30-35 or so.

JS
SnoMan - 25 Jul 2006 14:05 GMT
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 21:41:56 -0400, "Chris Thompson"

>he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.

and what question is that? You guys turned this into a circus.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
theguy@whatever.net - 25 Jul 2006 15:38 GMT
>On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 21:41:56 -0400, "Chris Thompson"
>>
>>he can't, and I'm still waiting on my question to be answered.
>
>and what question is that? You guys turned this into a circus.

"us guys" only took what you offerred.  a little late to start
whining.

>-----------------
>The SnoMan
>www.thesnoman.com
SnoMan - 25 Jul 2006 14:04 GMT
>SnoMan,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>vehicle speed from the VSS.  There are no vaccum lines hooked up anywhere on
>the units, so explain to me how vaccum effects them?

The electronic cruise is monitored by ECM and if the engine does npt
have the needed power reserve to power it, it will not let it engage.
It is not transparent as you assume. It determines this by MAP or
Vacum (which ever term you want to use)
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
azwiley1 - 25 Jul 2006 16:41 GMT
Really, then how come NONE of the Rostra electronic cruise control units I
sell and install have no vaccum line hook ups, NONE use MAP, vaccum, or
manifold pressure?  They will ALL engage at 25 mph or higher, etc..

Oh hell you know it all.

>>SnoMan,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
HomeBrewer - 25 Jul 2006 02:43 GMT
According to my calculations - and a lot of online calculators - I'd say the
truck would be better off with 4.11 gears....

> To fix this and make truck run a lot better you need at least
> 4.56's and 4.88 would be better still them recal speedo and such and
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
Chris Thompson - 23 Jul 2006 02:38 GMT
>I just installed the 2002-05 RAM 1500 4WD 6” PERFORMANCE SYSTEM made by
>Fabtech and put 35x12.5 BFG MTs and 17x9 MT classic II rims (see pic here:
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> a shop other that the dealer to align the truck without using factory
> specs - or - is there no place to start then?

Camber and Caster are the angles that would cause a pull toe in wouldnt. i
would further check to make sure the rest of the of the suspension is tight.
take it to a requtable front end shop. sounds like your going to need
quality, qualified professional help on this one.

> 2). I have a vibration at 40-60MPH that is not very nice. (no changes were
> made to the rear drive shaft, etc....)What components could cause this? I
> had the tires balanced and they used the stick on lead weights inside the
> rim. Are tires this big able to be balanced like that? I thought there was
> something that goes inside the big tires that balances them.

my first guess would be that you have changed your driveline angles. your u
joints may be running at too high of an angle. its not a big deal if you
know what your doing. but thats the thing you need to know what your doing
here too.

> 3). I had the dodge dealer recalibrate the computer / speedometer to
> compensate for larger tires. Now the cruise control only works up to 45MPH
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> something to do with the big tires and the computer recalibration, because
> the cruise worked fine just before the recalibration.

sorry cant help you on this one.

> Any help or advice would be appreciated.

your welcome, hope i've been of some help.
SnoMan - 23 Jul 2006 03:20 GMT
>>I just installed the 2002-05 RAM 1500 4WD 6” PERFORMANCE SYSTEM made by
>>Fabtech and put 35x12.5 BFG MTs and 17x9 MT classic II rims (see pic here:
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>take it to a requtable front end shop. sounds like your going to need
>quality, qualified professional help on this one.

Actualimproper toe in with a improper camber can indeed pull as iot
can aggrevate it. ANd again, stock alignment spec tend to be a
starting point with a lift, not the final word because the stress on
front end (which does actually flex some) has all changed with a big
lift with oversized tires. (it changes the load center relative to
axle pivots and the forces the road transmitts back to steering axle
relatie to them)

>> 2). I have a vibration at 40-60MPH that is not very nice. (no changes were
>> made to the rear drive shaft, etc....)What components could cause this? I
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
>your welcome, hope i've been of some help.

-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
HomeBrewer - 23 Jul 2006 18:15 GMT
> Camber and Caster are the angles that would cause a pull toe in wouldnt. i
> would further check to make sure the rest of the of the suspension is tight.
> take it to a requtable front end shop. sounds like your going to need
> quality, qualified professional help on this one.

All fasteners were re torqued to specs after 100 miles...everything is
dead on. I switched front tires from side to side and it still pulls
right slightly. Seems to be less than before the switch tho.

>>2). I have a vibration at 40-60MPH that is not very nice. (no changes were
>>made to the rear drive shaft, etc....)What components could cause this? I
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> know what your doing. but thats the thing you need to know what your doing
> here too.

The lift was designed to keep factory drive line angles, the front diff
was dropped to compensate, the rear was only lifted ~1" using helper
springs, there is no stress on any of the u-joints. I think the vibe is
tire related now.

>>3). I had the dodge dealer recalibrate the computer / speedometer to
>>compensate for larger tires. Now the cruise control only works up to 45MPH
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>something to do with the big tires and the computer recalibration, because
>>the cruise worked fine just before the recalibration.

> sorry cant help you on this one.
>
>>Any help or advice would be appreciated.
>
> your welcome, hope i've been of some help.
HomeBrewer - 24 Jul 2006 23:31 GMT
I've lurked here for a while (I've owned dodge trucks for the past 4-5
years) but I don't read posts unless I need info, and I don't feel I know
enough to pass info to others. I get the feeling that not many people like
the SonMan. Should I be taking his advice - or ? He seems to be very
knowledgable on the subject, more so that the service techs at the dealer
that I have dealt with.
Roy - 25 Jul 2006 06:43 GMT
> I've lurked here for a while (I've owned dodge trucks for the past 4-5
> years) but I don't read posts unless I need info, and I don't feel I know
> enough to pass info to others. I get the feeling that not many people like
> the SonMan. Should I be taking his advice - or ? He seems to be very
> knowledgable on the subject, more so that the service techs at the dealer
> that I have dealt with.

This is a unmoderated newsgroup. Anybody can give any advice they feel like.
YOU have to decide who's advice is good and who's is not. Myself, I'm
comfortable with advice and info I've received from Tom Lawrence, Denny,
Wiley, Mac, Tbone, theguy, beekeep, JS, mac, chris and a couple of others.
I'm sure that if you read back over your thread you will figure out who to
listen to.

Roy
 
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