 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / August 20062500 diesel tire pressures
The doorplate on my truck says to fill the tires to 65 psi front and 80 psi rear. Are those pressures ok for tire wear if the truck is being driven with no load? If not, how would I determine the correct tire pressure to create an uniform tire "footprint" for even tire wear? >The doorplate on my truck says to fill the tires to 65 psi front and 80 >psi rear. Are those pressures ok for tire wear if the truck is being >driven with no load? > >If not, how would I determine the correct tire pressure to create an >uniform tire "footprint" for even tire wear? I would leave front at 65 PSI because it is pretty heavy up there (a lot heavier than rear is with no load) In rear you can safely drop back to 50 or 55 PSI with no load in it. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com Justin, For what it's worth, my '06 says to inflate the rear to 40psi and the front to 50psi when not loaded. When loaded, it says rear at 70 and front to 60 psi. The tires are load range E with max inflation to 80 psi. Kevin Justin, For what it's worth, my '06 says to inflate the rear to 40psi and the front to 50psi when not loaded. When loaded, it says rear at 70 and front to 60 psi. The tires are load range E with max inflation to 80 psi. Kevin Justin, while the door plate is fine for the factory installed tires, ALWAYS use the data cast into the rubber on the tire sidewall as the definitive answer to pressure questions. The pressure it notes is the pressure at which the tires should be run for maximum efficiency of fuel and wear. You can trade some of that wear life and fuel efficiency for comfort of ride by lowering the pressure, but that is exactly what it is.. a trade. There is no other proper pressure to run tires than the one listed on the sidewall. You can experiment, but each tire and each truck and each driver will have different results. Thus take any info other than the specified pressure on the tire as opinion rather than proven fact. "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) > The doorplate on my truck says to fill the tires to 65 psi front and 80 > psi rear. Are those pressures ok for tire wear if the truck is being > driven with no load? > > If not, how would I determine the correct tire pressure to create an > uniform tire "footprint" for even tire wear? >Justin, while the door plate is fine for the factory installed tires, ALWAYS >use the data cast into the rubber on the tire sidewall as the definitive >answer to pressure questions. This is incorrect which is not surpizing consideing the source. The tires show max pressure and max load and the door sticker is supposed to show recommended pressure for projected loads on axles because tire capacity is related to its pressure. Higher pressure will improve MPG a bit but nothing is gained running much past 60 PSI unless your actual load requires you to run more than that pressure. In the "old" days they used to include tire pressure/capacity charts/tables in owners manuals so you new were to set pressure at if you wanted to but today that info is kinda scarce at times. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com > This is incorrect which is not surpizing consideing the source. Normally I wouldn't reply to your repeated drivel. However, THIS drivel CAN get someone killed. > tires show max pressure and max load and the door sticker is supposed > to show recommended pressure for projected loads on axles because tire > capacity is related to its pressure. Tire sidewalls show recommended pressure and the load that the tire can carry AT the recommended pressure. If you want proof that a problem can be had by underinflating tires, please see Ford Motor Company and Firestone for the results. Numerous lawsuits, brought on by death and injury caused by tire failure, are on the books for anyone to see. http://archives.cnn.com/2000/US/08/21/tiredeaths.pressure.ap/index.html I'll repeat for those who are hard of understanding: USE THE SIDEWALL RATING when selecting a pressure for your tire. > Higher pressure will improve MPG > a bit but nothing is gained running much past 60 PSI unless your > actual load requires you to run more than that pressure. If the tires are NOT rated for 60 PSI, you can have CATASTROPHIC results by inflating to 60 PSI. If the tires are rated at over 60PSI, it is possible to overheat the sidewalls, causing CATASTOPHIC results. AGAIN: Use the TIRE SIDEWALL as the source for PSI rating for the tires you are running. > In the "old" > days they used to include tire pressure/capacity charts/tables in > owners manuals so you new were to set pressure at if you wanted to but > today that info is kinda scarce at times. The reason is "kinda scarce" is because not all vehicles have the samt exact tires on them as they left the factory with. If I were to inflate the tires on my 2000 Ram2500 to anything over 44PSI, I'd be over the spec for the tire. However, the factory tires were able to handle 65PSI (IIRC). Again, check the sidewall before doing something that could result in injury or death.  SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >>Justin, while the door plate is fine for the factory installed tires, >>ALWAYS [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > The SnoMan > www.thesnoman.com >> This is incorrect which is not surpizing consideing the source. > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > >USE THE SIDEWALL RATING when selecting a pressure for your tire. i went to my tire shop and asked them. the shop is a nationally known one. they are very strict with their guidlines, they follow the rules all the way. they have to, the liability is too huge. i asked them. they said USE THE SIDEWALL RATING when selecting a pressure for your tire. no question, no controversy. USE THE SIDEWALL RATING. >> Higher pressure will improve MPG >> a bit but nothing is gained running much past 60 PSI unless your [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >Again, check the sidewall before doing something that could result in injury >or death. >>> This is incorrect which is not surpizing consideing the source. >> Normally I wouldn't reply to your repeated drivel. However, THIS drivel CAN [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > pressure for your tire. no question, no controversy. USE THE > SIDEWALL RATING. Heres an example why this advice is absolute idiocy... Ex-GF had a 95 Chevy Crapalier coupe, had Badyear Vivas on it from the factory. Sidewalls said *44 PSI* on them. Having always heard the advice you're spewing here I actually pumped them all up to that level. Drove *really* funny, very busy... Got on the brakes a little bit for a yellow-light-going-red on the way back to the house and the ABS kicked in - ON DRY PAVEMENT. Hmm. Must be the cheap tires. Took it back to her to drive. So a few days later I notice theres a 'suggested' pressure on the door sticker thats something like 30 PSI or somesuch. Set it down to that, handed my girlfriend the keys and told her to 'drive it like she was late for class'. 5 minutes later she returns and the damned sidewalls are scored halfway up, but damn she had a smile on her face. I pushed them back up to 35 psi and it drove fine and the tires wore evenly after that. On my 92 Explorer XLT, I almost always ran 32 psi. It drove best that way. You could barely go around a curve in the road without the tires squeeling at the sticker-suggested 26 psi, but the sidewall 36 psi was *WAAAY* too high. Oh... and I ran 120 psi on my Schwinn 10-speed.. 27x1.25" tires... Tire sidewall rating was either 130 or 150 psi, but 120 is all my old compressor could work itself up to. 120 psi was enough to break all the neighborhood posted speed limits and have the ability to coast *forever* after hitting top speed. JS > > This is incorrect which is not surpizing consideing the source. > > Normally I wouldn't reply to your repeated drivel. However, THIS drivel CAN > get someone killed. Who are you kidding, you reply to his at just about every opportunity and now you are using the Budd fear tactics as well, LOL! > > tires show max pressure and max load and the door sticker is supposed > > to show recommended pressure for projected loads on axles because tire > > capacity is related to its pressure. > > Tire sidewalls show recommended pressure and the load that the tire can > carry AT the recommended pressure. Really Max, I have yet to see a chart on the side wall of any of my truck tires. I do however see a MAX pressure and a MAX load rating. These however are not recommendations, they are MAXIMUM limits. > If you want proof that a problem can be > had by underinflating tires, please see Ford Motor Company and Firestone for > the results. Numerous lawsuits, brought on by death and injury caused by > tire failure, are on the books for anyone to see. > > http://archives.cnn.com/2000/US/08/21/tiredeaths.pressure.ap/index.html What point exactly are you trying to make???? Ford recomended a lowered tire pressure to prevent rollovers and it worked. The rest of it amountd to nothing more than lawsuits and bogus accusations about the reason for some defective tire failures. Even in this article, there is no proof that the lowered pressure had anything to do with it and it went on further to mention that Goodyear installed 500,000 tires on those vehicles at that pressure with NO failures. > I'll repeat for those who are hard of understanding: > > USE THE SIDEWALL RATING when selecting a pressure for your tire. While this may be valid advice for a CAR tire, it is complete BS for a LT tire. > > Higher pressure will improve MPG > > a bit but nothing is gained running much past 60 PSI unless your [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > inflating to 60 PSI. If the tires are rated at over 60PSI, it is possible to > overheat the sidewalls, causing CATASTOPHIC results. Where did he or anyone else say to go beyond the MAXIMUM rating on the side of the tire or is this just another one of your distortions? He was talking about an LT tire which many of them if not most have maximum ratings ABOVE 60 PSI. > AGAIN: Use the TIRE SIDEWALL as the source for PSI rating for the tires you > are running. Wrong answer. The TIRE SIDEWALL is a source of MAXIMUM PRESSURE and CAPACITY for the specific tire, not the only pressure the tire can be used at. > > In the "old" > > days they used to include tire pressure/capacity charts/tables in [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > on my 2000 Ram2500 to anything over 44PSI, I'd be over the spec for the > tire. However, the factory tires were able to handle 65PSI (IIRC). LOL, the chart is there for a reason Max. It is there because there could be huge load differences form one day to the next and if you think that one tire pressure (the max) is valid for the full load range, then you really need to do some reading on the subject. > Again, check the sidewall before doing something that could result in injury > or death. At least this statement is valid despite what you actually meant. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving Ahh yes, another bullshit reply from Tbone. My door label has NO chart, and notes that the front tires should be at 65PSI, and the rears at 80PSI. My tire sidewall says it'll handle 3300 lbs at 44PSI. So in your obviously professional, "know more than Max does" opinion, at what pressure do YOU feel I should keep my tires? Think carefully.....you'll need a way to spin your way out of the obvious correct answer...... SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> > This is incorrect which is not surpizing consideing the source. >> [quoted text clipped - 88 lines] > > At least this statement is valid despite what you actually meant. > Ahh yes, another bullshit reply from Tbone. Ahh yes, the typical Max response when once again being proven wrong. > My door label has NO chart, and notes that the front tires should be at > 65PSI, and the rears at 80PSI. Mine has that same bogus sticker and it lists the wrong size tires for the truck as well but the truck also came with a tire inflation pressures pamphlet that the owners manual specifically refers to. And on the back page, it has a few chart showing how much load the tires can handle with pressures from 30 to 80 PSI in 5 pound increments for all of the tires that the truck comes with. Gee Max, that is 12 different pressures. Now not all of the tires have values for all of the pressures on the chart as some pressures are either too high or too low for a given tire size but most of them have at least 6 entries. I guess that always filling them to the max is not the only or correct way to go. > My tire sidewall says it'll handle 3300 lbs at 44PSI. Well, according to your absurd logic, you put the wrong size tires on your truck and that could lead to you getting killed. > So in your obviously professional, "know more than Max does" opinion, at > what pressure do YOU feel I should keep my tires? I don't know, what size and type are the tires, how much of a load do you have on them, and at what speed do you do most of your driving? Just because they hava a max pressure of 44PSI, it doesn't mean that they must always be filled to that level and in some cases, they actually may need to be filled to up to 10PSI ABOVE the pressure rating on the side wall (LT tires only) and this is directly from the tire inflation pamphlet that came with my truck. > Think carefully.....you'll need a way to spin your way out of the obvious > correct answer...... I don't need to spin my way out of anything Max. You have just proven once again that you don't know half as much as you think you do. http://www.goodyeartires.com/faqs/Inflation.html This is directly from Goodyear and all you need to do is read the second and third sentence. I think that I will take the word of a manufacturer over yours, no offence intended. BTW, I see in a recent post from MoParMaN that the new low sulfur diesel is just now coming out. I guess that you were wrong about that one as well Mr. I have been using it for years. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > This is directly from Goodyear and all you need to do is read the second > and > third sentence. I think that I will take the word of a manufacturer over > yours, no offence intended. None taken. You have just proven my point. Go back and read what I said in my initial reply. I specifically stated that the tire sidewall took precedence over the tag on the door pillar. Moreover, I specifically stated that any deviation from the sideway for the sake of comfort or load handling would result in a compromise that detracted from wear and ride. But ultimately, SAFETY takes first billing, and THAT is derived from the sidewall rating of the tire. Since you have specifically stated that the TIRE manufacturer is to be the final source of info, that means the best info on the truck is the sidewall of the tire, as I stated in my initial reply. Have a nice day. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> Ahh yes, another bullshit reply from Tbone. > [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > Mr. > I have been using it for years. > > This is directly from Goodyear and all you need to do is read the second > > and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > my initial reply. I specifically stated that the tire sidewall took > precedence over the tag on the door pillar. And Goodyear says you are wrong. Read sentence 4. > Moreover, I specifically stated > that any deviation from the sideway for the sake of comfort or load handling > would result in a compromise that detracted from wear and ride. And once again, Goodyear says you are wrong and so does the tire inflation pamphlet that came with your truck. > But ultimately, SAFETY takes first billing, and THAT is derived from the > sidewall rating of the tire. Where did you come up with this? The sidewall simply states the maximums the tire is rated for so unless you are always at the or near the maximum load capacity of the tire, keeping it at the maximum pressure does not increase safety and as shown by the very article that you posted, can actually be dangerous. > Since you have specifically stated that the TIRE manufacturer is to be the > final source of info, that means the best info on the truck is the sidewall > of the tire, as I stated in my initial reply. LOL, I really feel sorry for you Max. > Have a nice day. You too. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Where did you come up with this? The sidewall simply states the maximums > the tire is rated for so unless you are always at the or near the maximum > load capacity of the tire, keeping it at the maximum pressure does not > increase safety and as shown by the very article that you posted, can > actually be dangerous. Well Tom, its a simple case of reading the sidewall. I told you what pressures the sticker recommended, and you also noted that the tire size was incorrect on the sticker. Thus, the sticker is irrelevant in regard to my tires. My tires are 265/75, the sticker rates 245/75. The sticker notes maximum pressures of 65 and 80 PSI. My sidewall calls for a maximum of 44PSI. If I follow your advice, my tires explode. My tires are the same size as factory, and are a load range above what the factory installed. Sorry Tom, but you are wrong. Done here. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> > This is directly from Goodyear and all you need to do is read the >> > second [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > You too. > > Where did you come up with this? The sidewall simply states the maximums > > the tire is rated for so unless you are always at the or near the maximum [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > incorrect on the sticker. Thus, the sticker is irrelevant in regard to my > tires. The sticker has nothing at all to do with the discussion or the point being made. > My tires are 265/75, the sticker rates 245/75. The sticker notes maximum > pressures of 65 and 80 PSI. My sidewall calls for a maximum of 44PSI. Big deal, that still doesn't mean that the MAXIMUM pressure printed on the side wall is the only pressure the tire can or even should be used at, only a maximum. > If I follow your advice, my tires explode. Really??? Show me exactly where I said to ignore the tires rated maximum and go blindly by the sticker on the pillar. > My tires are the same size as factory, and are a load range above what the > factory installed. And they can only handle 44 PSI What is the load range and who makes them? > Sorry Tom, but you are wrong. Just because you say it doesn't make it so, even if you really want it to be true. The article you posted, Goodyear, and the pamphlet that came with your truck says that you are the one who is wrong, even if you are completely unable to admit it. > Done here. You have been done for a while now Max. Have a nice day. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > The sticker has nothing at all to do with the discussion or the point > being > made. Sorry Tom, it was the center of the discussion and was part of the original question. It appears you have failed to read once again. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> > Where did you come up with this? The sidewall simply states the > maximums [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > > You have been done for a while now Max. Have a nice day. > > The sticker has nothing at all to do with the discussion or the point > > being > > made. > > Sorry Tom, it was the center of the discussion and was part of the original > question. It appears you have failed to read once again. Sorry Max, but wrong again. The center of the discussion was varying tire pressure due to the load put on them and that running max pressure for the tire all the time is not always the best thing. You were the one who jumped in with a Budd style fear of death reply stating that the tire must ALWAYS be inflated to the max pressure printed on the sidewall or the tire could fail and someone could be killed. This is of course, complete bullshit because if it were true, your truck would not have come with that inflation pamphlet showing varying pressures for different loads. You then accuse Snowball of telling people to over inflate the tire with no regard to the sidewall maximum which he never did. I guess that was just some desperate spin. BTW Max, I thought that you were done. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Sorry Max, but wrong again. The center of the discussion was varying tire > pressure due to the load put on them and that running max pressure for the > tire all the time is not always the best thing. Wrong. Here is the original post: > The doorplate on my truck says to fill the tires to 65 psi front and 80 > psi rear. Are those pressures ok for tire wear if the truck is being > driven with no load? > > If not, how would I determine the correct tire pressure to create an > uniform tire "footprint" for even tire wear? Obviously this is another case of Tbonedonwannabeeleevheebeewrong. >You were the one who jumped > in with a Budd style fear of death reply stating that the tire must ALWAYS > be inflated to the max pressure printed on the sidewall or the tire could > fail and someone could be killed. Wrong. Here is what I said: > Justin, while the door plate is fine for the factory installed tires, > ALWAYS [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > will have different results. Thus take any info other than the specified > pressure on the tire as opinion rather than proven fact. As you can see, there is no mention of death at all in my original reply. Nor did I say that the pressure was to ALWAYS be at the rating on the sidewall. > BTW Max, I thought that you were done. Just straightening out your lies as usual. Now run along and play with Miles. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> > The sticker has nothing at all to do with the discussion or the point >> > being [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > sidewall maximum which he never did. I guess that was just some desperate > spin. BTW Max, I thought that you were done. <severely sniped for brevity> >"Max Dodge" <max340@verizon.net> wrote in message >> There is no other proper pressure to run tires than the one listed on the >> sidewall. >Nor did I say that the pressure was to ALWAYS be at the rating on the >sidewall. Not really any of my business to jump into your little squabble here, but can you reconcile these two statements for us? >Miles. DJ > Not really any of my business to jump into your little squabble here, > but can you reconcile these two statements for us? Its pretty much what I told you in the first answer. The recommended pressure for best load bearing ability and proper tire profile is the one on the sidewall. As I mentioned, ANY other pressure is a compromise to the lifetime and the ride quality of the tire. At some point, be it lower or higher than that recommended on the sidewall, the pressure you choose will lead to increased wear or less ride comfort. At some further point on the pressure gradient, the pressure you choose will lead to catostrophic failure of the tire, which can lead to injury or death. This is not some scare tactic, it is real life and is documented in the Ford Explorer/Firestone findings of a couple years back. What some people don't seem to understand is, the literature and the door tag are for the factory tires. In my case, and I suspect yours, the door tag is for the factory stock tires and doesn't even apply to the optional tires. My door tag indicates maximum pressures for a 245/75/16 tire. The truck was optioned to arrive with 265/75/16's, so the door tag does NOT apply to the tires on the truck. Furthermore, the tires I am currently using have a maximum pressure of 44psi, roughly 35psi less than the tag recommendation. Using the tag info would lead to catostrophic failure of the tire. As such, the first and foremost info is the sidewall of the tire. It shows the maximum pressure, which is also the pressure that will allow the tire to attain its proper profile. This is where it will wear best, and deliver the best fuel economy. It is therefore the proper pressure to run the tire. As I said before, if you choose to run at any other pressure, you are compromising the tire's ability to wear properly and to operate properly. At some point, the tire will fail prematurely, be it wear or catostrophic failure. NO table of info can properly indicate what pressure you should run a tire, since that table comes from either the truck or the tire manufacturer. As such, each one knows very little about the other due to the vast number of variables involved. A small example: In sand, your truck will fare much better with considerably lower pressure in the tires. And thats fine on sand at low speeds. On the highway, such a pressure would lead to overheating of the sidewall, and a blowout. Depending on speed and conditions, you might wreck, or simply pull over with a trashed rim. That is why you should follow the sidewall recommendation AND learn to read the wear patterns on the tire tread. That way, you are best informed about the particular tires and load YOU have, and need not follow some table, or half-assed guess from some newsgroup a.shole. Tire tread can tell you a world of info from wear/load/pressure problems to suspension problems, or handling problems. The tire is the best source of info. I'll say it again.... the TIRE and its sidewall are the BEST source of info on the pressure you should run. Proper pressure is that listed on the sidewall. Anything you choose based on conditions after reading that pressure is a compromise that YOU aree making to the tire's ability to meet rated wear and load. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) > <severely sniped for brevity> > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > DJ > > Not really any of my business to jump into your little squabble here, > > but can you reconcile these two statements for us? > > Its pretty much what I told you in the first answer. And you were wrong then so why should this long winded answer be any different. > The recommended pressure for best load bearing ability and proper tire > profile is the one on the sidewall. As I mentioned, ANY other pressure is a > compromise to the lifetime and the ride quality of the tire. Right from the start, you are full of sh.t. The pressure on the sidewall IS NOT the recommended pressure, it is the MAXIMUM pressure!!! While this may be somewhat valid with a "P" series tire, it is complete BS with a "LT" series tire. > At some point, be it lower or higher than that recommended on the sidewall, > the pressure you choose will lead to increased wear or less ride comfort. Once again, with a "LT" tire this is complete crap. It really amazes my how little to no grasp of simple basic physics you have. >At some further point on the pressure gradient, the pressure you choose will > lead to catostrophic failure of the tire, which can lead to injury or death. > This is not some scare tactic, it is real life and is documented in the Ford > Explorer/Firestone findings of a couple years back. Once again, you see only what you want to see. The article you posted showed that there was no proof that the reduced tire pressure is what caused the failures and it went on further to talk about 1/2 million Goodyear tires also inflated to that low pressure without any failures. Sorry Maxi, it is a fear tactic and nothing more. > What some people don't seem to understand is, the literature and the door > tag are for the factory tires. In my case, and I suspect yours, the door tag [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > maximum pressure of 44psi, roughly 35psi less than the tag recommendation. > Using the tag info would lead to catostrophic failure of the tire. I am still waiting for you to tell us the make and model of the tires you have on your truck now. I see that you keep refering to the pressure printed on the sidewall of the tire as MAXIMUM but also refer to it as reccomeneded. Which one is it????? > As such, the first and foremost info is the sidewall of the tire. It shows > the maximum pressure, which is also the pressure that will allow the tire to > attain its proper profile. This is where it will wear best, and deliver the > best fuel economy. It is therefore the proper pressure to run the tire. Oh, I see, so now the maximum pressure is the only pressure that the tire can reach its proper profile. While this may be somewhat true for a "P" series tire that may only see a load change of a few hundred pounds, it is completely retarded to say that about a "LT" tire that can see load changes of over 2000 LBS on the same vehicle. Like I said, you have no concept of physics at all. > As I said before, if you choose to run at any other pressure, you are > compromising the tire's ability to wear properly and to operate properly. Funny that the very manufacturers of these tires don't agree with you. > At some point, the tire will fail prematurely, be it wear or catostrophic > failure. NO table of info can properly indicate what pressure you should run > a tire, since that table comes from either the truck or the tire > manufacturer. As such, each one knows very little about the other due to the > vast number of variables involved. More complete crap and a further example that you don't know what in the hell you are talking about. The pressure that a specific tire type and size needs to carry a given load can be calculated and these are the values listed on the vehicle sticker based on the factory tire size and expected weight on its axles. And while this sticker is based on the tire the truck was intended to come with, many also come with a more comprehensive chart that lists different sized tires and loads with the required pressure for each. If the sidewall pressure was the only valid pressure for the tire, why would they ever include such a pamphlet that could libel them if the tire were to fail? > A small example: In sand, your truck will fare much better with considerably > lower pressure in the tires. And thats fine on sand at low speeds. On the > highway, such a pressure would lead to overheating of the sidewall, and a > blowout. Depending on speed and conditions, you might wreck, or simply pull > over with a trashed rim. You have actually disproved your own point, LOL!!! According to you, any deviation from the sidewall pressure could lead to disastrous results and now you are making the claim that under certain conditions, it is not only acceptable, but advantageous to run at a pressure considerably lower than the sidewall pressure. Common sense would also say that the same would apply to a tire supporting considerably less than its maximum designed weight but then again, common sense is the one thing you have damn little of. > That is why you should follow the sidewall recommendation AND learn to read > the wear patterns on the tire tread. That way, you are best informed about > the particular tires and load YOU have, and need not follow some table, or > half-assed guess from some newsgroup a.shole. What's the matter Max, did I piss you off by proving you to be in error once again? While it is a good idea to learn to read wear patterns, that is useless for most instances of pressure levels in a truck where they take time to form and the load on them can change drastically on a daily basis. The only one acting like an a.shole now is you. > Tire tread can tell you a world of info from wear/load/pressure problems to > suspension problems, or handling problems. The tire is the best source of > info. Suspension problems sure and perhaps pressure problems in a vehicle that has a consistant load but that is usually not the case in a truck. > I'll say it again.... the TIRE and its sidewall are the BEST source of info > on the pressure you should run. And I'll say it again, when it comes to an "LT" tire you are wrong. > Proper pressure is that listed on the > sidewall. Again, wrong. Maximum pressure is listed on the sidewall. >Anything you choose based on conditions after reading that > pressure is a compromise that YOU aree making to the tire's ability to meet > rated wear and load. And again, you would be wrong and have nothing to back up this complete load of sh.t. And BTW this long winded load of sh.t you posted still didn't answer the simple question posted by DJ. You first said: > >> There is no other proper pressure to run tires than the one listed on the > >> sidewall. and then claimed > >Nor did I say that the pressure was to ALWAYS be at the rating on the > >sidewall. He asked you to reconcile these two statements and you have yet to do so. Why is that Max??? SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > <severely sniped for brevity> > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Not really any of my business to jump into your little squabble here, > but can you reconcile these two statements for us? LOL, I would like that to be properly explained as well. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > Sorry Max, but wrong again. The center of the discussion was varying tire > > pressure due to the load put on them and that running max pressure for the > > tire all the time is not always the best thing. > > Wrong. Here is the original post: LOL, who said that I was referring to your original post or is that just more spin. > > The doorplate on my truck says to fill the tires to 65 psi front and 80 > > psi rear. Are those pressures ok for tire wear if the truck is being [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Obviously this is another case of Tbonedonwannabeeleevheebeewrong. No. just another case of Max spin and denial. Goodyear and DC both say that filling the a LT to max pressure with no load actually INCREASES tire wear. Once again, you are as usual, full of sh.t. > >You were the one who jumped > > in with a Budd style fear of death reply stating that the tire must ALWAYS [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > use the data cast into the rubber on the tire sidewall as the definitive > > answer to pressure questions. Which is incorrect. > > The pressure it notes is the pressure at which the tires should be run for > > maximum efficiency of fuel and wear. You can trade some of that wear life > > and fuel efficiency for comfort of ride by lowering the pressure, but that > > is exactly what it is.. a trade. Once again incorrect as said by both DC and Goodyear and I didn't even bother to check the other manufacturers where I know I will see the same information. > > There is no other proper pressure to run tires than the one listed on the > > sidewall. You can experiment, but each tire and each truck and each driver > > will have different results. Thus take any info other than the specified > > pressure on the tire as opinion rather than proven fact. Once again, complete bullshit, especially for an LT tire. > As you can see, there is no mention of death at all in my original reply. > Nor did I say that the pressure was to ALWAYS be at the rating on the > sidewall. Yea, but I replied to your second post which started of with > Normally I wouldn't reply to your repeated drivel. However, THIS drivel CAN > get someone killed. Sounds a lot like a typical Budd style fear of death response to me. > > BTW Max, I thought that you were done. > > Just straightening out your lies as usual. Now run along and play with > Miles. No, just another lie from you. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > What point exactly are you trying to make???? Ford recomended a lowered > tire pressure to prevent rollovers and it worked. Really now? They didn't lower the pressure to prevent rollovers. They did so to improve ride quality. > > What point exactly are you trying to make???? Ford recomended a lowered > > tire pressure to prevent rollovers and it worked. > > Really now? They didn't lower the pressure to prevent rollovers. They > did so to improve ride quality. Once again, Miles jumps into the thread in an attempt to prove me wrong, slips in his own bullshit and lands flat on his face, LOL! Did you even read the article that I was summarizing Miles??? http://archives.cnn.com/2000/US/08/21/tiredeaths.pressure.ap/index.html Now I know that reading comprehension is not your thing but try re-reading the forth and especially the sixth paragraph. You should be done here but if you wish to further entertain us, feel free to reply. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > Once again, Miles jumps into the thread in an attempt to prove me wrong, > slips in his own bullshit and lands flat on his face, LOL! Did you even > read the article that I was summarizing Miles??? Now go read the full congressional report especially the first 2 of the 3 rounds. Read Fords testimony. The documents you mention raised questions about Ford's position during testimony that accidents involving the Explorer and Firestone tires aren't related to Ford's recommended tire pressure for the Explorer. Fords own testimony is in contradiction to your statements TBone. Try not to base your baseless comments one what you read on the net. Read the congressional testimony as to exactly what Ford said. Gee Miles, since as usual you fail to back up anything, I think that I will take what CNN said over you and as I said before, reading comprehension is not your strong point. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > > Once again, Miles jumps into the thread in an attempt to prove me wrong, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > comments one what you read on the net. Read the congressional testimony > as to exactly what Ford said. > Gee Miles, since as usual you fail to back up anything, I think that I will > take what CNN said over you and as I said before, reading comprehension is > not your strong point. lol, CNN huh? I think I'd rather take Fords own testimony during the congressional hearings over what CNN or you say. The trouble with you isn't reading. It's the fact you take what you first read as fact and feel no need to ever do any research into the matter. Typical far lefty. Just read headlines that fits your needs. > > Gee Miles, since as usual you fail to back up anything, I think that I will > > take what CNN said over you and as I said before, reading comprehension is > > not your strong point. > > lol, CNN huh? I think I'd rather take Fords own testimony during the > congressional hearings over what CNN or you say. LOL, sure Miles. The problem is that your reading comprehension is not at 100% with your extreme right wing bias clouding it all of the time but hey, post a link and prove me wrong. > The trouble with you > isn't reading. It's the fact you take what you first read as fact and > feel no need to ever do any research into the matter. Typical far > lefty. Just read headlines that fits your needs. Back to silly accusations I see, how typical. The point is Miles, I simply summarized the article that Max posted and asked him how it backed his point. You then jumped in with some crap that Ford reduced air pressure significantly for ride quality and that it had nothing to do with rollovers when ride quality was not even directly mentioned in the article he posted. As for who you choose to believe, lets look at that. You choose to believe a statement made by Ford when it was in their best interest for them to mislead or even outright lie instead of CNN who would gain nothing by lying and hurt their hard won reputation doing so. Believe whoever you want but I will stick with the safer bet but then again, you haven't even backed up what you claim Ford said. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > LOL, sure Miles. The problem is that your reading comprehension is not at > 100% with your extreme right wing bias clouding it all of the time but hey, > post a link and prove me wrong. Hmm...well now TBone, you never read the congressional testimony of Ford so I guess thats how you avoid your own lack of reading comprehension. Just don't read it at all! How do I know you didn't read it? Because if you did you wouldn't be whining right now. > As for who you choose to believe, lets look at that. You choose to believe > a statement made by Ford when it was in their best interest for them to > mislead or even outright lie instead of CNN who would gain nothing by lying > and hurt their hard won reputation doing so. Believe whoever you want but I > will stick with the safer bet but then again, you haven't even backed up > what you claim Ford said. You made a statement as to why Ford reduced pressure as stated by CNN. The problem is that this is what CNN stated, not what Ford stated under oath at the congressional hearing. Was CNN under oath? Did Ford get charged with perjury? The answer is NO to both. Again you simply read headline stories that agree with your bias and run with it. No need to read the actual case at hand when the biased media can interpret it for you. > > LOL, sure Miles. The problem is that your reading comprehension is not at > > 100% with your extreme right wing bias clouding it all of the time but hey, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > comprehension. Just don't read it at all! How do I know you didn't > read it? Because if you did you wouldn't be whining right now. I'm not the one whining Miles, that would be you. There is a difference between reading a testimony and understanding it which you have failed to do and as I see once again, you are unable to back up what you say. At least you are consistent. Unfortunately, it is consistently wrong. > > As for who you choose to believe, lets look at that. You choose to believe > > a statement made by Ford when it was in their best interest for them to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > You made a statement as to why Ford reduced pressure as stated by CNN. No, I summarized the article posted by Max. > The problem is that this is what CNN stated, not what Ford stated under > oath at the congressional hearing. Oh yea, nobody under oath has ever lied or not given the complete truth, LOL!!! > Was CNN under oath? Nope and why would they be and what possible reason would they have to lie? Ford had hundreds of millions of reasons to lie or at least hide the truth. I guess it would have done wonders for their sales to admit that they designed a disaster of a vehicle that even fully inflating its tires puts you at significant risk. Get real Miles. > Did Ford get charged with perjury? LOL, nope and how many convicted criminals have been convicted of perjury??? Purgery is just about impossible to prove and is seldom prosecuted. Once again, your lame spin fails. > The answer is NO to both. Again you simply read > headline stories that agree with your bias and run with it. More complete crap and you should be the last one to talk about bias. > No need to read the actual case at hand when the biased media can interpret it for you. Like I said, your reading comprehension is severely limited. The biased media as you call it did not interpret Fords testimony, they reported on internal documents and test results that had nothing to do with the congressional testimony. Face it Miles, you are as usual, wrong again but feel free to continue to respond and make a fool out of yourself. I will wait for that link that is never going to come. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > I'm not the one whining Miles, that would be you. There is a difference > between reading a testimony and understanding it which you have failed to do > and as I see once again, you are unable to back up what you say. At least > you are consistent. Unfortunately, it is consistently wrong. Difference huh? The difference is reading it, or not reading it which would be the case with you. You are very consistent in only reading headline stories that suit your biased needs. You're not one to dig any further. Research is not your forte. > Nope and why would they be and what possible reason would they have to lie? Are you for real???? The news media doesn't lie? They always tell the truth and just report a story huh? Oh geez. I knew you were gullible but now you just went and proved it. News media doesn't lie?? Oh man, now thats some funny stuff right there. >> Did Ford get charged with perjury? > > LOL, nope and how many convicted criminals have been convicted of perjury??? > Purgery is just about impossible to prove and is seldom prosecuted. Once > again, your lame spin fails. Not impossible with those documents CNN claimed to see....whoops, they only 'SAW' them. They never could actually produce them and prove their origin when asked. > Like I said, your reading comprehension is severely limited. The biased > media as you call it did not interpret Fords testimony, they reported on > internal documents and test results that had nothing to do with the > congressional testimony. Face it Miles, you are as usual, wrong again but > feel free to continue to respond and make a fool out of yourself. I will > wait for that link that is never going to come. Those documents were never produced for the congressional hearing. Why weren't they? Oh yes, you always want a link so you do not have to actually do any research yourself. Links exist that will say anything you want them to say. Good grief. > Justin, while the door plate is fine for the factory installed tires, ALWAYS > use the data cast into the rubber on the tire sidewall as the definitive [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > will have different results. Thus take any info other than the specified > pressure on the tire as opinion rather than proven fact. Then why exactly do decent tire manufacturers offer documentation with suggested pressures for given loading, operation speed, and ambient temperature? Check out Michelin or BF Goodrich's websites sometime. They've got a LOT of documentation online. With radial tires, overinflating-for-the-actual-load actually decreases fuel economy. Also, you generally get 'funny' tire wear (center wear) and the reduced initial contact patch can be a very dangerous situation... JS > Then why exactly do decent tire manufacturers offer documentation with > suggested pressures for given loading, operation speed, and ambient > temperature? Ever check to see what the manufacturer suggested pressures are? Are they the same as the door pillar tag? Which pressure recommendation is readily found while on the road? What pressure would keep the tire in its designed profile and flexibility design, door pillar or sidewall? What tire pressure will keep a tire from excessive sidewall flex? > Check out Michelin or BF Goodrich's websites sometime. They've got a LOT > of documentation online. Congrats! Now, which info is on the sidewall of the tire, the stuff BFG and Michelin publish, or the door pillar specs? > With radial tires, overinflating-for-the-actual-load actually decreases > fuel economy. Pure bullshit. Proper inflation via the info on the sidewall (I run 2 lbs less due to variation in guage temp, air temp and tire temp, to keep it just under spec) will keep the tire at its proper contact patch with the road surface while keeping sidewall flex at a minimum, thus lowering rolling resistance. > Also, you generally get 'funny' tire wear (center wear) Center wear is an indication of overinflation of the tire under ANY conditions. A tire inflated to the spec on the sidewall will have proper profile and contact, and will wear evenly. > and the reduced initial contact patch can be a very dangerous situation... As could the contact patch of an underinflated tire, seen here in the second drawing. http://www.procarcare.com/includes/content/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/ch25/25re adtirewear.html As you can see, the tire ALSO loses contact patch when under inflated. Again, use the info on the tire sidewall for inflation pressures. > Ex-GF had a 95 Chevy Crapalier coupe, had Badyear Vivas on it from the > factory. Sidewalls said *44 PSI* on them. Having always heard the advice [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > in - ON DRY PAVEMENT. Hmm. Must be the cheap tires. Took it back to her > to drive. Goodyear Viva tires are manufactured exclusively for Wal-Mart, so yeah, It WAS the cheap tires. Furthermore, its very hard to believe that a tire designed for use on a typical passenger car had a pressure rating of 44PSI, since thats well over the norm. They also are guaranteed for 80,000 miles, not exactly a tire that grabs the pavement very well. This guy found them to be terrible tires and replaced them after 2000 miles. http://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?additionalComments=y&tireMake= Michelin&tireModel=Energy+MXV4+Plus&commentStatus=P > So a few days later I notice theres a 'suggested' pressure on the door > sticker thats something like 30 PSI or somesuch. Set it down to that, > handed my girlfriend the keys and told her to 'drive it like she was late > for class'. 5 minutes later she returns and the damned sidewalls are > scored halfway up, but damn she had a smile on her face. I pushed them > back up to 35 psi and it drove fine and the tires wore evenly after that. Wonder of wonders...... maybe you misread the sidewall and it was 34 PSI like MOST passenger car tires without a speed rating?? > On my 92 Explorer XLT, I almost always ran 32 psi. It drove best that > way. You could barely go around a curve in the road without the tires > squeeling at the sticker-suggested 26 psi, but the sidewall 36 psi was > *WAAAY* too high. A Ford Exploder is automatically DQ'ed as a test vehicle because of well publicized problems in the ratings on the tire and the vehicle. According to easily found data, Ford was incorrect at 26PSI (on the door) and Firestone claimed that anything over 30PSI would work, AFTER they dropped the claim that 36PSI was proper in light of losing money after Ford and Firestone had a huge falling out and $$ started flashing. > Oh... and I ran 120 psi on my Schwinn 10-speed.. 27x1.25" tires... Tire > sidewall rating was either 130 or 150 psi, but 120 is all my old > compressor could work itself up to. 120 psi was enough to break all the > neighborhood posted speed limits and have the ability to coast *forever* > after hitting top speed. Which is irrelevant given the drastic differences in the type of tire and the vehicle. SignatureMax "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) >> Justin, while the door plate is fine for the factory installed tires, >> ALWAYS use the data cast into the rubber on the tire sidewall as the [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > JS >Then why exactly do decent tire manufacturers offer documentation with >suggested pressures for given loading, operation speed, and ambient >temperature? It depends on who you talk to. I am running BFG 245/75-17E on my dually. I got no documentation other than the doorpost sticker when I bought the truck new. I emailed BFG and asked for load/inflation tables since they were not to be found on the web. BFG snail-mailed me the requested tables. They show ratings from 35 psi @ 1100 lbs to 80 psi @ 3910 lbs. for single tire usage. There is no dual tire rating, yet on the sidewall of the tires, they do show a dual rating. They included a letter that said I should adjust the tire pressures according to the loading. I emailed them back and asked about dual tire configurations. (My truck has 3600 lbs on the rear axle, 4800 on the front.) Their answer: "Use the door sticker information." which conflicts with their first answer of "inflate to the pressures shown on the inflation tables for the loading on the tires." Greg >>Then why exactly do decent tire manufacturers offer documentation with >>suggested pressures for given loading, operation speed, and ambient [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Greg I had 2 new front tires put on my dually last week. I took it Discount Tires. When they input my truck (2005 3500 Dually HD) and which tire I had (General) it spit out the tire pressures for a loaded and unloaded truck. Pretty cool. Loaded Mine was 80 pounds rear on all 4 tires and 65 front. Unloaded 50 to 65 pounds rear and 50 to 65 front. So, I assume you would adjust them for the type of ride you want. I run mine 55 front and 65 rear when not pulling my 14.5K 5th wheeler. When towing I run all of them maxed out. SignatureMoParMaN---Remove Clothes To Reply --SCUD Coordinates 32.61204 North: 96.92993 West-- > The doorplate on my truck says to fill the tires to 65 psi front and 80 > psi rear. Are those pressures ok for tire wear if the truck is being > driven with no load? > > If not, how would I determine the correct tire pressure to create an > uniform tire "footprint" for even tire wear? You may find this more helpful, page 7 of the first link is probably what you're looking for. http://www.goodyear.com/truck/pdf/databook/loadInflation.pdf http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rv_inflation.pdf |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.