>> Since the dome light is always hot, I would think some thing is shorted in
>> that circuit. It could also cause the dead battery. Your going to need a
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>and it is still popping the int fuse I agree about the dome light we'll
>check that after work today thanks for the help any other ideas??
If you are able use a digital multimeter ($5-$8 from harbor freight) try
measuring the resistance (with the battery disconnected) from the fuse connector
to the frame and see if it is a true "short" (approx. 1-5 ohms) or a higher
value. Then compare that reading with the resistance from the dome light to the
frame, the reading in ohms that is LOWER should be closer to where the actual
short is at in the harness. If they are about the same, and are a very low
value there should be something obvious in that part of the harness or one of
the harness connectors touching the frame. Make sure your meter has a fresh
battery to prevent inaccurate readings. How long does it take to blow the fuse,
instantly or does it take a few seconds? I often use a straight pin soldered to
one of the meter leads to pierce the insulation of suspect wiring without
damaging it permanently, the lower the resistance to the frame, the closer to
the short you are and conversely, if the resistance is going up as you check
the distribution from the fuse you are going away from the short, of course.
good luck, Joe.
jonanddacia - 17 Aug 2006 08:18 GMT
> >> Since the dome light is always hot, I would think some thing is shorted in
> >> that circuit. It could also cause the dead battery. Your going to need a
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> the distribution from the fuse you are going away from the short, of course.
> good luck, Joe.