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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / September 2006

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UPDATE 3 with DETAILS of What Broke -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?

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Ignoramus937 - 24 Sep 2006 03:46 GMT
I discovered some fascinating things about where that broken piece
comes from and why it fell off. It looks to me like it was improperly
installed at the factory.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Automotive/Drivetrain-Noise-In-Dodge-RAM-1500-Pickup/

I put pictures there of the exploded diagram of my 9.25" axle, and
highlighted how it should be installed.

I then made VERY detailed pictures of what remained from the part that
broke (adjuster ring lock), and how it LOOKS like it was installed
backwards and broke, probably as I was driving home from the dealer on
Day 1.

I want some opinions on this sh.t, specifically

- It is really wrong? Or am I confused?

- Is it covered by any sort of recall or advisory, given that my
pickup is a 1999 pickup

- Did the problem with the LEFT adjuster lock, in fact, could possibly
cause my problems with the RIGHT outer axle bearing?

- Just how f.cked I am here, can I possibly get by with just replacing
the right outer axle bearing and perhaps changing the oil a couple of
times and installing some rare earth magnet to collect metallic dust
over the next month.

Your collective help has been INVALUABLE to me and I cannot say enough
to express my extreme gratitude to all contributors so far.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU

i
RoyJ - 24 Sep 2006 04:20 GMT
I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
hyperventelating. There, OK now?

Looks like the retainer lock was installed backwards, just snapped off.
This would give you the score mark on ring gear. Neither of those items
really concerns me other than ranting about nincompoops at the factory.
I would be concerned if the bearing retainer had moved. If it was loose,
you will have trashed the bearings as well as gotten abnormal wear on
the ring/pinion.

Since I doubt you have any warranty coverage, it's up to you. I'd clean
up the whole assembly so you can see what it looks like without the oil
residue. A good wear pattern is centered in the ring gear teeth. Lots
more info in lots of places, try this for starters, keep looking.
http://www.ring-pinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf

If the tooth wear looks ok, finish flushing the gear case, put in fresh
oil, keep going. Perhaps drain and flush again in 30 to 60 days.

If the wear pattern shows that it has shifted over time or there is alot
of backlash, time to call in an expert and have them rebuild it.

Shrug. What other choices do you have?

> I discovered some fascinating things about where that broken piece
> comes from and why it fell off. It looks to me like it was improperly
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> i
Ignoramus937 - 24 Sep 2006 04:23 GMT
> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
> hyperventelating. There, OK now?

OK. :)

> Looks like the retainer lock was installed backwards, just snapped off.
> This would give you the score mark on ring gear. Neither of those items
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> more info in lots of places, try this for starters, keep looking.
> http://www.ring-pinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf

OK, will read this.

> If the tooth wear looks ok, finish flushing the gear case, put in fresh
> oil, keep going. Perhaps drain and flush again in 30 to 60 days.
>
> If the wear pattern shows that it has shifted over time or there is alot
> of backlash, time to call in an expert and have them rebuild it.

Backlash would be, as I try to rock the main ring, a measure of how
much it moves? Right?

> Shrug. What other choices do you have?

I dunno, maybe there is a safety recall for this or something...

Adjusting these adusters, according to beekeep, is not terribly
difficult. I will read some more.

The question is whether my carrier bearings are trashed.

i
Don Young - 24 Sep 2006 05:03 GMT
>> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
>> hyperventelating. There, OK now?
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>
> i

Somehow, I believe what you found is unrelated to your problem, though the
lock should be replaced properly. It sounds to me more like a bad axle
bearing. The carrier bearings work regardless of which wheel is turning.

Do not try to adjust or replace the carrier bearings or the pinion bearings
unless you are real sure it is necessary and you have the tools and
knowledge to do it properly.

Don Young
Roy - 24 Sep 2006 05:40 GMT
>>> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
>>> hyperventelating. There, OK now?
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>
> Don Young

After reading all this, I'm in agreement with Don on this. Do the lock
replacement, replace the axle bearing, I'd do both sides while it is apart.
Then I'd probably run it for a 100 miles, drain it, look it over and if all
is okay, refill the rear end and be done with it.

Roy
Ignoramus937 - 24 Sep 2006 05:43 GMT
>>>> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
>>>> hyperventelating. There, OK now?
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
> Then I'd probably run it for a 100 miles, drain it, look it over and if all
> is okay, refill the rear end and be done with it.

Makes sense. Should I put in a small rare earth magnet somewhere on
the bottom to collect loose steel grit?

i
Roy - 24 Sep 2006 06:04 GMT
>>>>> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
>>>>> hyperventelating. There, OK now?
[quoted text clipped - 66 lines]
>
> i
If it would make feel better, go for it. Myself I wouldn't bother. I'd
change the fluid more often maybe every 15K.

Roy
Don Young - 25 Sep 2006 04:14 GMT
>>>>>> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
>>>>>> hyperventelating. There, OK now?
[quoted text clipped - 72 lines]
>
> Roy
If you do install a magnet inside, be very sure it can't come loose. It
could do a lot more damage than any loose grit.

Don Young
beekeep - 24 Sep 2006 11:26 GMT
>Makes sense. Should I put in a small rare earth magnet somewhere on
>the bottom to collect loose steel grit?
>
>i

Isn't there one attached to the cover?

beekeep
beekeep - 24 Sep 2006 11:24 GMT
>>> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop
>>> hyperventelating. There, OK now?
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>
>Don Young

I agree.  But check the backlass.  If it is close don't ajust anything.  Change
out the wheel bearings and seals and see what happens.

beekeep
Pete C. - 24 Sep 2006 05:44 GMT
> I discovered some fascinating things about where that broken piece
> comes from and why it fell off. It looks to me like it was improperly
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> i

Go to alldata.com and check the TSB Titles to see if there was a recall
ot TSB that might be applicable. You have to pay to get the full
bulletin, but the titles are generally descriptive and free. If you find
one that sounds applicable you can check with the dealer for the full
detail.

Pete C.
Anthony - 24 Sep 2006 12:32 GMT
> Your collective help has been INVALUABLE to me and I cannot say enough
> to express my extreme gratitude to all contributors so far.



Personally, I'd first check backlash, record it, then pull the carrier,
flush and check the carrier bearings, based on the grit you found in the
bottom of the can.
It's not difficult to reset the lash / bearing pre-load on this type of
set-up, same thing as a Ford 9" as far as that goes. Check your wear
pattern on the ring gear and pinion. While you have the carrier out,
check the pinion bearings for feel and any backlash.
See how much wiggle you have (if any) in the spiders and make sure the
pins are still corretly in place.
Pull the axles, replace both bearings.  While you have it all apart,
clean the inside of the housing really good, including the tubes. You
want to get all of that grit out of there that you can before you re-
install anything.
All that grit sloshing around is probably what got your axle bearing(s).
If one has failed, the other is not far behind, which is also why I
suspect the carrier bearings are going to be damaged, and probably the
pinion bearings also.
If the lock has broken off, the possibility that the preload was lost
early on is relatively high, which is not a good thing.
Definately check for the TSB's.
I would just replace all the bearings and seals while I had it apart
(pinion included).

Signature

Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

beekeep - 24 Sep 2006 17:16 GMT
>> Your collective help has been INVALUABLE to me and I cannot say enough
>> to express my extreme gratitude to all contributors so far.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>I would just replace all the bearings and seals while I had it apart
>(pinion included).

If you replace the pinion bearings you will need a in/ounce torque wrench to set
the preload.

beekeep
Roy - 24 Sep 2006 17:41 GMT
>>> Your collective help has been INVALUABLE to me and I cannot say enough
>>> to express my extreme gratitude to all contributors so far.
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> beekeep

Imo there is a bit of over reaction going on. The truck has 70K+ on it. It
is not unheard of for a axle bearing to go south at that mileage. Sure the
lock has to be replaced, but there didn't seem to be a glaring problem with
the wear on the ring&pinion that I saw. Some of these posts have the op
about rebuilding the rear end. Sorta like tearing down a engine for a broken
rocker arm. Then again it is not my truck. If it were I'd do a good visible,
replace the lock, flush it, do both axle bearings, fill it, run it, drain
it, take another good look at it, if okay, refill and be done with it.
Of course that's me, I'm not overly anal about this stuff. I'm aware that
others are, that's cool.

Roy
RoyJ - 24 Sep 2006 18:48 GMT
What Roy said. Flush it well, replace the lock tab, replace the axle
bearing, drive on. Don;t make a big deal out of it.

In any case, if the noise continues, I would NOT reccomend a DIY repair.
So bolt it back together takes 15 minutes to flush well, 15 minutes to
bolt the cover on,  if it isn't right you lost 30 minutes.

the OTHER Roy

>>>>Your collective help has been INVALUABLE to me and I cannot say enough
>>>>to express my extreme gratitude to all contributors so far.
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> Roy
BDK - 24 Sep 2006 18:45 GMT
> I discovered some fascinating things about where that broken piece
> comes from and why it fell off. It looks to me like it was improperly
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> i

I really think you're going to be a lot better off to take it to a shop
that knows what they are doing, setting up a rear isn't something you
want to learn by guessing and "trying".

BDK
Carl Byrns - 24 Sep 2006 20:42 GMT
> - Is it covered by any sort of recall or advisory, given that my
> pickup is a 1999 pickup

Probably not, but it can't hurt to ask.

Here's how the dealer will look at it:
If you've been a _good_ customer of the local dealer, the service department
might go to bat for you with the regional rep.
If you did all the routine service yourself (or anyplace other than the
dealer), this is where you get spend all the money you saved.

Sorry, but that's how the game is played.

-Carl
Tony - 24 Sep 2006 21:11 GMT
Iggy,

It seems to that the lock was improperly installed. Therefore the side
adjuster backed off, causing the ring gear to develop excessive backlash
(which would cause noise when taking your foot off the gas), and the ring
gear moved over enough to break off the improperly installed lock.

I would remove the ring gear and carrier, wash out the banjo with a full can
of brake cleaner, blow out with air. Clean the ring gear, bearings, races
with brake cleaner and air. Re-install everything and previously described
and you should be good. Don't forget a new cover gasket. I prefer a gasket,
but a bead of silicone works too.

I wouldn't recommend using a power washer as someone posted, the water can
be impossible to get out of the axle tubes, and you will contaminate your
new gear oil and get milky.

You can try to get Dodge to make the repair, you have a good case, but it
might be easier to fix it yourself than deal with that hassle.

While your at it this is a good time to install a limited slip differential
:^)

Tony

> I discovered some fascinating things about where that broken piece
> comes from and why it fell off. It looks to me like it was improperly
> installed at the factory.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Automotive/Drivetrain-Noise-In-Dodge-RAM-1500-Pickup/

> I put pictures there of the exploded diagram of my 9.25" axle, and
> highlighted how it should be installed.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> i
glyford@gmail.com - 25 Sep 2006 03:04 GMT
Iggy,

Before you get too deep in this thing, take five minutes to do a local
search on car-part.com for another used axle in your area.  I did that
with 2.3L Ford engine
and managed to find an engine with only 30k on it for less than I'd
already spent
on diagnostics.  Before you get too far into this, take a quick check
to see if
there is a cheap replacement around, it may mean you could then rebuild
this
one (or not) at your leisure...

 --Glenn Lyford
azwiley1 - 25 Sep 2006 04:07 GMT
This site has helped me find used parts as I have needed to.

www.car-parts.com

> Iggy,
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
>  --Glenn Lyford
 
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