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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / October 2006

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Brake Job

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Craig C. - 12 Oct 2006 01:36 GMT
I've touched on this subject before because I knew it wouldn't be long
before the brakes started squeeling.  Well, that time has finally come.

I plan to have a complete brake job done.  New pads and rotors all the
way around.

So, a couple of questions:

1)  Are vented rotors really the way to go, or are the positive things
I read simply a marketing ploy?

2)  Any suggestions of a good brake mechanic in the North Dallas, Texas
area?  I prefer not to go to the dealer unless I have to.

3)  Is there a particular brake type I need to prevent squeeling?  It
seems that everytime I have had a brake job done in the past, the new
pads ALWAYS squeel, whereas the OEM pads never did.

4) Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Craig C.
2004 Ram 2500, CTD, 4x4, QC
Mike Simmons - 12 Oct 2006 02:02 GMT
> I've touched on this subject before because I knew it wouldn't be long
> before the brakes started squeeling.  Well, that time has finally come.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> 1)  Are vented rotors really the way to go, or are the positive things
> I read simply a marketing ploy?

For normal driving, vented rotors are unnecessary

> 2)  Any suggestions of a good brake mechanic in the North Dallas, Texas
> area?  I prefer not to go to the dealer unless I have to.

Can't help you there, but avoid the Midas, Car-X, Meineke shops unless you
want to buy a "complete" brake job.
> 3)  Is there a particular brake type I need to prevent squeeling?  It
> seems that everytime I have had a brake job done in the past, the new
> pads ALWAYS squeel, whereas the OEM pads never did.

Buy a good quality pad, don't buy on price alone.

> 4) Any other suggestions?

Don't buy on price alone.  Quality is like buying oats... if you want nice,
clean, fresh oats you will have to pay a price... oats that have already
been thru the horse can be had somewhat cheaper...

Mike

> Thanks,
> Craig C.
> 2004 Ram 2500, CTD, 4x4, QC
Craig C. - 12 Oct 2006 02:25 GMT
>Buy a good quality pad, don't buy on price alone.

And where would one buy these quality pads?  Napa?  Autozone?

> > 4) Any other suggestions?

> Don't buy on price alone.  Quality is like buying oats... if you want nice,
> clean, fresh oats you will have to pay a price... oats that have already
> been thru the horse can be had somewhat cheaper...

Well said.  I have no problem spending the money.  My problem is
knowing *where* to spend the money.

Craig C.
Mike Simmons - 12 Oct 2006 10:55 GMT
>>Buy a good quality pad, don't buy on price alone.
>
> And where would one buy these quality pads?  Napa?  Autozone?

NAPA is OK, Autozone...... never!

Mike

>> > 4) Any other suggestions?
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Craig C.
Joe Brophy - 12 Oct 2006 13:00 GMT
>>>Buy a good quality pad, don't buy on price alone.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>>> clean, fresh oats you will have to pay a price... oats that have already
>>> been thru the horse can be had somewhat cheaper...

A few months ago I did my brakes and had to replace a damaged rotor, the
replacement purchased from NAPA.  They had two rotors one for about 35$ and the
other for about 60$.  They were identical physically so I asked what the
difference was between them and the parts clerk said: "The least expensive one
is made in China the other is made in the U.S., other than that they are the
same."  I told him given that they are functionally the same I will take the
least expensive one.  To which he replied: "If it were me that is what I would
do too."  No issues thus far, works fine.  regards, Joe.

PS: I DID however opt for the premium quality pads which were a few bucks more
than standard OEM replacements since my past experiences have shown me that the
better pads wear significantly longer than standard issue.
>> Well said.  I have no problem spending the money.  My problem is
>> knowing *where* to spend the money.
>>
>> Craig C.
Jon - 12 Oct 2006 17:24 GMT
Craig,

Everybody has an opinion on brake pads....like people do with car
wax..(!?!)..but let me make just two remarks:

1.  A good number of years back, we had a portion of the braking
material crack off a pad of our sport-class road racing car.  With few
options, we ran to the closest discount store, got a set of
"Performance Friction" pads, and ran them for the closing practice
session and the entire next day.  While not replacements for the Hawks
we were supposed to be running, my brother (driver of said car) was so
impressed with their performance that he advised putting them on the
hauler and our daily drivers -- very progressive feel with no heat fade
and no squeal.  I must have installed a couple dozen over the years,
with nary a complaint -- save for the fact that I think they've made
them slightly less aggressive over the years, and you quickly get used
to a hair less response when dead cold.  I drive like a real jerk when
I can, and I've gotten years out of sets.  Even on contractor's trucks,
I only had the chance to warrantee two pair (lifetime warrantee - worn
to spec) -- the boss's truck and the service truck.

2.  I don't have many beefs about the Chinese rotors (and I'm currently
running a pair), but on German cars that utilize a tapered retention
screw, I've seen them crack at that spot.  With no dimensional
difference, I think we're seeing the reality of a lesser alloy.  In
addition, each set I've seen lately has been sold with a "turned"
surface -- where you have to take an abrasive disc and give it a
non-directional finish.  No big deal if you have the equipment and
don't mind doing so, but it is one extra step.  If you look at the big
name brand, you'll see that they do indeed give the braking surface a
superior finish -- one that you feel immediately at the pedal if you
don't resurface the cheap stuff.

Caveat emptor -- Jon
.boB - 13 Oct 2006 00:10 GMT
>>>Buy a good quality pad, don't buy on price alone.
>>
>>And where would one buy these quality pads?  Napa?  Autozone?
>
> NAPA is OK, Autozone...... never!

   Actually, AZ sells a brake carbon-metallic  pad from
Performance Friction.  It is very good.

Signature

.boB
Arrived:  2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged   Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
    1HD1GEL10VY3200010    CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

BigIronRam - 12 Oct 2006 02:34 GMT
> 2)  Any suggestions of a good brake mechanic in the North Dallas, Texas
> area?  I prefer not to go to the dealer unless I have to.

Craig, if you're interested I can put you in touch with my mechanic in
Plano.  Ping my screen name using comcast dot net as the domain.
.boB - 12 Oct 2006 03:28 GMT
> I've touched on this subject before because I knew it wouldn't be long
> before the brakes started squeeling.  Well, that time has finally come.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> 1)  Are vented rotors really the way to go, or are the positive things
> I read simply a marketing ploy?

  Drilled and slotted rotors are simply for looks, and will
actually decrease braking performance by decreasing surface
contact area.  Just have your stock rotors resurfaced and you'll
be fine and it will save you money.

> 3)  Is there a particular brake type I need to prevent squeeling?  It
> seems that everytime I have had a brake job done in the past, the new
> pads ALWAYS squeel, whereas the OEM pads never did.

    Use a ceramic pad.  They sqeal, but at such a high frequency
that humans can't hear it.  Be carefull, as some ceramic pads are
not recommended for towing.

> 4) Any other suggestions?

    Very carefully follow the instructions for properly bedding
the pads.

Signature

.boB
Arrived:  2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged   Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
    1HD1GEL10VY3200010    CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra -  427W EFI, Damn Fast.

NapalmHeart - 12 Oct 2006 10:48 GMT
>> I've touched on this subject before because I knew it wouldn't be long
>> before the brakes started squeeling.  Well, that time has finally come.
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
>     Very carefully follow the instructions for properly bedding the pads.

In a word, Raybestos.  More expensive than the economy pads and worth it.
(IMHO, anyway)

Ken
Stormin Mormon - 12 Oct 2006 22:03 GMT
Since you're asking about a mechanic, it's clear that you are taking
your truck to a shop.

Most shops are not happy when you bring in your own parts. About all
you can do is ask around, and find a place that installs semi-metalic
pads. Which last three or so times longer than organic pads.

A couple vehicles ago, I used organic pads on the front of my dodge
van. Had to replace them about eveyr year. I remember them being about
$11, adn th4e semi metalic were about $30. The semi metalic were the
bargain, cause I only had to change them once, compared to three times
for the organic.

Signature

Christopher A. Young
 You can't shout down a troll.
 You have to starve them.
.

I've touched on this subject before because I knew it wouldn't be long
before the brakes started squeeling.  Well, that time has finally
come.

I plan to have a complete brake job done.  New pads and rotors all the
way around.

So, a couple of questions:

1)  Are vented rotors really the way to go, or are the positive things
I read simply a marketing ploy?

2)  Any suggestions of a good brake mechanic in the North Dallas,
Texas
area?  I prefer not to go to the dealer unless I have to.

3)  Is there a particular brake type I need to prevent squeeling?  It
seems that everytime I have had a brake job done in the past, the new
pads ALWAYS squeel, whereas the OEM pads never did.

4) Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Craig C.
2004 Ram 2500, CTD, 4x4, QC
 
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