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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / December 2006will axle mount of a 2500 or 3500 fit on 1500?
I was wondering if I could use axle from 2500 or 3500 dodge ram 4x4 to put on my 1500 dodge ram. Will the mounting fit? Or I will have to do some welding to make adjustment. I honestly don't see why not it work that way. Give me ur opinion about that Front or rear axle?? While the axle should bolt right up, the pinion will be a different size and require a modification to the drive shaft.  SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > I was wondering if I could use axle from 2500 or 3500 dodge ram 4x4 to > put on my 1500 dodge ram. Will the mounting fit? Or I will have to do > some welding to make adjustment. I honestly don't see why not it work > that way. > > Give me ur opinion about that > Front or rear axle?? While the axle should bolt right up, the pinion will > be a different size and require a modification to the drive shaft. Both front and rear axle. Even if its same year of truck but different in size and shaft requires modification? I assume it ll be the same pinion size. Wish dodge made their truck easier I never had problem except for 4x4 hi gear, had new tranny and new 4x4 (auto) and runs so great. Just want make some modification with my suspension and make it stronger for some serious mud ride > > Front or rear axle?? While the axle should bolt right up, the pinion will > > be a different size and require a modification to the drive shaft. > > Both front and rear axle. Even if its same year of truck but different > in size and shaft requires modification? I assume it ll be the same > pinion size. The problem is that the 2500 and 3500 use different size u-joints than a 1500 series so your front and rear u-joints will be a different size than those on the transer case where that would be the same with the origional rears. > Wish dodge made their truck easier It is not a matter of making it easier or harder, it is a matter of money. The 1500 is a bit underdesigned when it comes to the drive train as they use the same components as the Dakota. You can't even get the standard shift with the 260 as the NV3500 is not up to the added torque. I guess that they think of it as just a big car. > I never had problem except for 4x4 hi gear, had new tranny and new 4x4 > (auto) and runs so great. Just want make some modification with my > suspension and make it stronger for some serious mud ride If you really want to do that, I would suggest replacing the transfer case as well with the NV4500 and then you can use the 2500 drive shafts as well. Much stronger that way. I'm not sure how difficult it will be to fit it in as I'm sure the mounts will be different. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving Dude thanks for ur advice. Sounds like a couple of grand to put on. Ill just stick with what my truck has. Lifting it up and change several parts (front) and new tires will do at same price. But ill keep that advice u just gave me for a later project. R u a mechanic? > Sounds like a couple of grand to put on. Ill just stick with what my > truck has. Lifting it up and change several parts (front) and new tires > will do at same price. But ill keep that advice u just gave me for a > later project. Alright.... first, what year truck do you have? What size tires are you looking to put on? How much lift? Are you going to go with a complete kit, or try and cobble the pieces together yourself? What's the intended use of the truck once it's lifted? Drive it around on the street looking mean, light off-roading, serious rock-crawling? Any towing in it's future? What engine and transmission is in it? What gear ratio in the axles? And finally, what's your budget? I'm looking for a completely lift kit, 3.5 inches front 3 inches rear since my truck is 1996 dodge ram 5.2l with 312 cid 8 cylinders. Its a plow truck so front is one inches lower than rear. I just put all new suspension on it so I can have better ride when driving with plow. Don't know my axle ratio yet, just got the truck and fixed little up, had 4x4 worked on, new tranny, altogether was 4 grand. I m looking to spend 3 grand in spring time on this truck. Its easy to lift it up, want two shocks in front with enlongated steering stabilizers, better control arm and pitman arm (my steering gear is getting wornt out so add other 300). I don't think it ll need new drive shaft after lifting it up 3 inches more. I also want 34 inches by 13 maybe 14 if permit (this is why I asked about the axle from 2500 or 3500 on my 1500) I want make it look wicked mean. It would be nice if I had ten grand budget then I would go for 4 bore carb, turn it into 5.9 liter with chrome headers, chrome manifold, chrome cat conventor, chrome muffler. Along with what I said above. My rear differentals r defitinely single wheel differental. (Right side) but left side seems to lock on with right side when it comes to reversing or towing. Its getting cold to work on my truck right now. Any ideas dudes my advise, and Tom L. may disagree but if you want to put wider tires on the truck and are going to need the wider rims to accommodate use a rim offset that will work with the existing axle. Signature---------------------------- -Chris 05 CTD 06 Liberty CRD Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs. > I'm looking for a completely lift kit, 3.5 inches front 3 inches rear > since my truck is 1996 dodge ram 5.2l with 312 cid 8 cylinders. Its a [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Any ideas dudes > my advise, and Tom L. may disagree but if you want to put wider tires on > the truck and are going to need the wider rims to accommodate use a rim > offset that will work with the existing axle. Certainly - you've really got to be careful to keep the load centered on the wheel bearings with the D44... I've seen lots of guys with out-of-spec camber due to bent axles from the extra leverage of big tires sticking way too far out. As for the rest, a 3" lift kit is pretty straight-forward, so not much to go wrong there. I was worried he was looking to stuff 38's or something underneath, since he was originally asking about swapping in 1-ton running gear. > Any ideas dudes for what you describe, you bought the wrong truck. take the money that you would have spent on axle swaps and the modifications required to make them work, and add it to the money you have from selling your truck. then use it to buy the _right_ truck for the job that you describe. a 2500/3500. SignatureNathan in Montana http://ConcealedCarryForum.com http://1911Tech.com http://GlockCarry.com > The 1500 is a bit underdesigned when it comes to the drive train as they > use > the same components as the Dakota. You can't even get the standard shift > with the 260 as the NV3500 is not up to the added torque. I guess that > they > think of it as just a big car. you realize that the 1500 is a half ton rated probably at best around 7000 lbs gross trailer rating. while the engine (hemi for example) in a lot of half tons are the same engine found in the gas versions of the 3/4 and 1 tons applications the suspension, drivetrain, and brakes are designed as such (1/2 ton). so I would disagree that the half tons are under designed, but would say instead they are over abused. I'm guilty too, that's why I quit buying half ton trucks. Signature---------------------------- -Chris 05 CTD 06 Liberty CRD Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs. > > The 1500 is a bit underdesigned when it comes to the drive train as they > > use [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > but would say instead they are over abused. I'm guilty too, that's why I > quit buying half ton trucks. If that were the case dude, then why wasn't the 5 speed offered with the 360??? The simple fact is that the 5 speed offered and transfer case for that matter is the same one used in the Dakota and that transmission is not capable of dealing with the torque of the 360 in that application which to me is simple sub-standard. And then when you add up all of the failures with the 9 1/4 in rear again, mostly in the 1500 series..... SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving My truck isn't 5 spd. Its automatic. I could sell my truck annd get bigger truck that can handle more power. My 1500 is so awesome and ur right its prone to beating, can't help it that's the beauty of truck. Its always if u change this, this will affect that, dang cause and effect. Thanks for updating ur advice. I know but mine is. Either way, both still use the same axles, transfer case, and drive shafts and are nowhere near as strong as the ones on the 2500. SignatureIf at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving > > My truck isn't 5 spd. Its automatic. I still need to change my steering gear. Its leaking slowly, It usually takes a month and half when fluid goes to its miniminal point. I just got to add fluid from time to time. Its just most defitinely pain in the bottoms when time comes to take it apart. I have take plow frame off because its in the way. With that kind of work it probably would take me 3 to 4 hours the most to replace new one. Then my 1500 is done and I can sell it for couple grand more than what I bought it. I take real good care of my truck but its sad to know that there r drawbacks about 1500 compared to 2500 and 3500. This site is so wicked awesome. Thanks awesome people. T bone, once again, back to axle again. I wonder if I get drive pinion gear shaft from my 1500 axle and put it in 2500, will the gears fit with eachothers or its not worth the pain in the bottom work? There's two different size of rear axles for dodge, 9 1/4 like u said and 9 3/8 inches too. I really wish I won a megabucks and I would do this kind of work everyday and enjoy life wrecking trails with dodge truck. Is there such thing as a heavy duty axle for 1500? >> > The 1500 is a bit underdesigned when it comes to the drive train as >> > they [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > me is simple sub-standard. And then when you add up all of the failures > with the 9 1/4 in rear again, mostly in the 1500 series..... here again Tbone your talking about an engine capable of handling the job of a 1 ton (its was offered in the BR/BE 1 tons, not exactly sure if it was ever offered in the DR, but I think it was) in a half ton truck, then your complaining that a half ton trans and transfer case isn't strong enough for it....WELL!!! sure they aren't. you have to use the stuff rated for that power, certainly. but does that mean the NV3500 sub standard? id think not. you see you have to have reasonable expectations of the equipment. for example I wouldn't ask a Nissan p/u to pull 40 tons of freight cross country. but that being said. ill spot you this they could have used a stronger trans and offered a standard shift with the 360 in a half ton. and ok so the bearings in the 9 1/4 corp. axle wasn't the best. I'm sure if you could get some corporate executive at Chrysler to admit the truth it was a extremely bad decision to use that particular vendor. other than that I really didn't see any other problems with the axle. Signature---------------------------- -Chris 05 CTD 06 Liberty CRD Real Trucks don't NEED spark plugs. > Front or rear axle?? While the axle should bolt right up, the pinion will > be a different size and require a modification to the drive shaft. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > > > Give me ur opinion about that |
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