Tune up with new spark plugs and distribution cap. I wonder when was
last time u guys had ur durango tuned up? Its low mile and u said
somtimes jostling around with engine makes it work.

MMmmmm......check for corrosion on those pins.  Take the

connectors apart and have a look inside.  Moisture...corrosion

or something along those lines possibly.

There was a recall on '03 Rams to add O-rings to the PCM connectors - you
may want to check and see if anything similar was released for the
Durango's.

Even if not, I'd put a bit of dielectric grease across all the pins, and
might even go so far as to run a tiny bead of silicone around the outside of
the plugs, where they meet with the receptacles, to try and seal out any
moisture.

"electronic cleaner" ???!!!

What the heck is it? Some of that stuff will do more harm than good.

JAM

It sounds like you are traveling down that same road in diagnosing the problem
as I did a while ago.  First, it is my understanding that the problem is within
the computer (for most  if not all of the ones that were analyzed beyond
replacing the pcm, anyway), more specifically what happens is that over time
with hundreds of on/off cycles of the rig the circuit board will develop
microscopic cracks in the printed circuit land patterns causing the electrical
connection to open or at least become very poor quality after the engine
compartment has been at operating temp for some time and there has been lack of
airflow in there, like you went to the store a couple miles away, turned off the
rig went in and came out 5-10 minutes later got in the rig started up and was
fine for about a half of a block, the "no bus", the rig stalls and won't fire
but will turn the motor over.  NOW, you probably pop the hood and go out and
start "checking stuff out" under there. (Meanwhile the heat is escaping from the
engine area...)  You likely have figured out if it has happened for a while that
you don't need to try to start the engine rather just cycle the key from off to
on and watch the trip odometer.  If it hasn't reset itself (yet) it will flash
three times and display "no bus", when it is ready to start again when the key
is cycled the odometer display reads normally.  With my rig initially it would
cool itself off if I opened the hood for 3-5 minutes, with it closed it was a
little longer but not a lot.  Over time it will likely become longer, given the
nature of the problem, mine did and my rig didn't develop the issue until I had
driven it for almost a year.  The pcm is considered to be part of the emissions
control systems so you should get a replacement at no charge(they are warranted
for 8 years I believe) other than the cost of one or more service appointments
while they "prove" it to themselves, unless you simply demand that it be
replaced and use printouts of the 150 or so identical problems logged in Allpar
or other problem tracking sites.  I just put in a used PCM since I didn't have
the time to sit there while they checked it out and also didn't have another
vehicle to use, cost me about 120$ been fine since.  Also sometimes I would get
a error message if I ran the dashboard diagnostic when the "no bus" went away,
before doing anything else, it reads out in the same display.  As I recall the
code was 192X, as well as 1999.  However, many if not most of the time it showed
no other errors, and as you indicated it resets the PCM reset able errors as
well.  I was told that I needed to have the pcm reprogrammed to show my rigs VIN
number, which Daimler Chrysler of course wanted to soak me fifty bucks for, so I
may do it one day but it has been running fine for almost a year with no
perceivable differences.  I did order the exact PCM number for the way mine is
configured which didn't hurt either I suppose.  The no bus problem IMHO is one
of the most dangerous failures since it is random and it literally disables the
vehicle immediately, if you are in the fast lane on a freeway, or in the middle
of an intersection trying to turn it can get VERY exciting, I almost crashed
several times in similar situations attempting to get off the roadway.  It
seemed to help a little if I left the hood wit the main latch open only held by
the safety latch, not a safe practice either but if it avoids being completely
disabled it is worth it, at least as a temporary measure.  The reason you
haven't yet associated the problem to heat is that the PCM  seems to lag behind
the apparent engine bay heat and it is in the flow of air from in front of the
airbox which might keep it a bit cooler.  In the winter here in Oregon my rig
would almost never fail, but in summer when it got over 80 degrees you had
better keep air moving through the engine and if you stop raise the hood
slightly until you get back to the vehicle or expect a no bus within 3-5 minutes
of starting off down the road again.  It does get worse over time though if mine
was any indication of the failure mode, with winter approaching it might appear
to go away, but trust me it is still in there.  Good luck and I hope I have
helped a little anyway.  Now, if I could figure out a way to inexpensively fix
my next legendary Durango design bug:  The "rocking horse" drivers side electric
seat, where the motorized part separates from the seat base bolted to the cab
floor, of course none of you Durango drivers ever heard of that one did you?
Best regards, Joe