Tips for my new Cummins diesel

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JB - 23 Jan 2007 00:25 GMT

Hello Everyone,
I just purchased a new 2006 2500 with a 5.9 Cummins diesel. I'm going
to use it to tow our travel trailer. I've never owned a deisel before
and was wanting to know if anyone can give me some tips on the engine.
Is there a better manufacturer of gasoline than others? Can anyone
recommend a place that is reasonable for oil changes??? Anything
advise is better than what I have now which is nothing. I always read
the Owner's Manual but I'd like to hear from someone who's owned one
(or two) for some practical advise.

Thank you in advance.

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azwiley1 - 23 Jan 2007 00:37 GMT

> Hello Everyone,
> I just purchased a new 2006 2500 with a 5.9 Cummins diesel. I'm going
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Thank you in advance.

Well, I would recommend that you DON'T put gasoline in the tank! <VBG>

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JB - 23 Jan 2007 00:45 GMT

Bad use of words... I should have said "deisel fuel" instead of
gasoline. As I said, this is my first diesel and I've got to pay
attention to my use of words. Thanks for the feedback.

> Hello Everyone,
> I just purchased a new 2006 2500 with a 5.9 Cummins diesel. I'm going
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Thank you in advance.

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azwiley1 - 23 Jan 2007 01:03 GMT

Give it a day or two, there are a few guys, Tom L. and Max, to name a few
that I am sure will be able to give you an advice you might need.

There are a few you will find in your best interests not to listen to,
Snoman being at the top of the list.

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Joseph Myers - 23 Jan 2007 02:38 GMT

>Hello Everyone,
>I just purchased a new 2006 2500 with a 5.9 Cummins diesel. I'm going
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>Thank you in advance.

If you don't do your own maint. the best thing is to take it to the
dealer, not one of the quick change places.

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Tom Lawrence - 23 Jan 2007 05:18 GMT

> Is there a better manufacturer of gasoline than others?

[insert requisite ribbing re: gasoline vs. diesel]

The biggest enemy of any diesel fuel system is water in the fuel. Find a
station that does a high volume of diesel sales - this ensures that the
tanks get turned over quickly. Every week or so, at first, drain a little
fuel from the fuel filter drain (clear plastic tube coming off the fuel
filter canister, low on the driver's side of the engine, open the yellow
valve and drain a little fuel into a clear container) and check for water.
Diesel is lighter than water, so any water will sit on the bottom. If
you're getting water, find a different station, and/or drain the water out
frequently.

> Can anyone recommend a place that is reasonable for oil changes???

No matter where you take it/who does it, make sure to use only Fleetguard
filters (Mopar filters are also fine, as they're just re-labeled
Fleetguard). No Fram, no Wix, no "house brand" filters - no matter how much
they tell you, "hey, they're all the same". Make sure a quality
diesel-rated oil is used - Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac 1300, Chevron Delo
400, or Valvoline Premium Blue - all in 15W40 weight. (Again, Mopar-branded
oil is OK, too). Ditto on the fuel filters (every 10K-15K miles, depending
on fuel quality). You really should learn to do this kind of stuff
yourself, as a typical dealer will charge over $100 to change a fuel filter.
The things cost $12 and takes about 10 minutes to change. Do the math...

> advise is better than what I have now which is nothing. I always read
> the Owner's Manual but I'd like to hear from someone who's owned one
> (or two) for some practical advise.

When starting up, especially in cold weather, let the grid heaters do their
thing (wait for the light to go out before starting). Don't worry about
idling to "warm it up"... just drive it easy until the coolant is up to
operating temp. ('bout 195°F or so - middle of the water temp gauge). Some
of the worst abuse you can give a diesel is to run it hard right after
start-up.

After towing, give it a few minutes of idling before shutting down (the
manual talks about this). This allows the turbo to cool down, so that it
doesn't burn up the oil in it's bearings. This will wear out the turbo over
time.

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TBone - 23 Jan 2007 22:22 GMT

> > Is there a better manufacturer of gasoline than others?
>
> No matter where you take it/who does it, make sure to use only Fleetguard
> filters (Mopar filters are also fine, as they're just re-labeled
> Fleetguard). No Fram, no Wix, no "house brand" filters - no matter how much
> they tell you, "hey, they're all the same".

Ok I gotta ask. I can understand your warning about Fram but I have been
using Wix filters for over 20 years and AFAIK, they make a high quality
filter so what is so dam special about Fleetguard that puts them at such a
high level where nothing else can be used or is this some warranty thing?

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Tom Lawrence - 24 Jan 2007 01:36 GMT

> Ok I gotta ask. I can understand your warning about Fram but I have been
> using Wix filters for over 20 years and AFAIK, they make a high quality
> filter so what is so dam special about Fleetguard that puts them at such a
> high level where nothing else can be used or is this some warranty thing?

Mainly a warranty thing. It's pretty hard for a dealership to squawk about
your choice of oil filter when you use the one recommended by the people
that build the engine. And with cost between the two about equal ($10.09
for a WIX filter from NAPA, $10.50 for a Fleetguard Stratapore filter from
Geno's), there's no reason not to use what's recommended.

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TBone - 24 Jan 2007 03:42 GMT

> > Ok I gotta ask. I can understand your warning about Fram but I have been
> > using Wix filters for over 20 years and AFAIK, they make a high quality
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> for a WIX filter from NAPA, $10.50 for a Fleetguard Stratapore filter from
> Geno's), there's no reason not to use what's recommended.

Thanks Tom

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