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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / February 2007

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'99 Ram 120K miles what else to do?

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Ed H. - 30 Jan 2007 03:13 GMT
'99 Ram 5.9L 4X4 automatic.

Currently I have 120K miles with little done to the engine or transmission
expect a recent plenum gasket replacement and of course normal tune ups
(including distributor cap, rotar, plugs and wires), fluid changes, belt and
hoses replacement, trans back flush and have no reason to doubt the engine,
tranny, or axles but am planning a 4X4 trip this summer which will take use
as much as 100 miles from the nearest paved road.  I would hate to abandon
it in the field and return with parts.

If it were your truck (specifically Tom Lawrence) what would you do?

Signature

It is the Soldier, not the reporter who has given use freedom of press
It is the Soldier, not the poet who has given us freedom of speech
It is the Soldeir, not the campus organizer who gives us freedom to
demonstrate
It is the Soldier who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag,
and whose coffin is draped by the flag, and who allows the protestor to burn
the flag.

--Father Denis Edward O'Brien

Tom Lawrence - 30 Jan 2007 04:25 GMT
> If it were your truck (specifically Tom Lawrence) what would you do?

The first thing that comes to mind is to check the timing chain.  This is
relatively easy to do by removing a valve cover, and observing the amount of
slack by turning the crankshaft pulley with a breaker bar/socket, and seeing
how much play there is before a valve moves (roll the engine clockwise until
a valve [doesn't matter which one] moves half-way down, then see how much
you cal roll it back before the valve starts moving back up).  A dial
indicator is useful here, to know exactly when the valve moves.  Any more
than about 5 degrees of rotation before valve movement would indicate a worn
chain.

Over 100K would make me wary of the water pump, as well.  I might change
that as a preventive measure, and would definitely change it if it turned
out the timing chain was worn.

Beyond that, it would be more about what I would bring with me...  basic
things like serp. belt, oil, tranny fluid, coolant [water is fine], hose
repair kit, some JB Weld (lots of potential for fixing things here...  holes
in radiators, oil pans, tranny pans, diff covers, etc.).  I would also pick
up a spare front wheel bearing.  It'll run you a couple of hundred dollars,
but it will be money well spent, because eventually you'll need to replace
one, or both, front hub bearings.  As long as you have a jack and basic
tools with you (including a hammer, and 12-point sockets), you can change
one of these if the need arises.

Some other things to throw in your emergency box...  pick up some master
cylinder plugs.  With one of those, and a bottle of brake fluid, you can
survive a broken brake line, by blocking off the broken line, and using just
the remaining brakes (front or rear).  A plug kit, some Fix-a-Flat, and a
small 12V compressor will deal with most tire damage.
SnoMan - 30 Jan 2007 13:09 GMT
>> If it were your truck (specifically Tom Lawrence) what would you do?
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>than about 5 degrees of rotation before valve movement would indicate a worn
>chain.
Actually there is no need to remove valve covers for this. You can
feel the amount of slop when you try to rotate  the dampner Up to 5
degrees or so is acceptable but beyond that and especailly if it is up
around 10 or more you need to change it soon.

>Over 100K would make me wary of the water pump, as well.  I might change
>that as a preventive measure, and would definitely change it if it turned
>out the timing chain was worn.

I would not base its replacement on timing chain condition but would
change it is I had it off to replace timing chain. 100K+ on a pump is
getting up there and it mau be reaching end of service life.

>Beyond that, it would be more about what I would bring with me...  basic
>things like serp. belt, oil, tranny fluid, coolant [water is fine], hose
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>tools with you (including a hammer, and 12-point sockets), you can change
>one of these if the need arises.

No mention of changinf Tcase or axle lubes. THis should have been done
long ago and is often overlooked

>Some other things to throw in your emergency box...  pick up some master
>cylinder plugs.  With one of those, and a bottle of brake fluid, you can
>survive a broken brake line, by blocking off the broken line, and using just
>the remaining brakes (front or rear).  A plug kit, some Fix-a-Flat, and a
>small 12V compressor will deal with most tire damage.

Left out stop leak for cooling system and I would carry a low pressure
radiator cap too (7 PSI) to slow leak if you get one in boonies. (I
run 7 PSI caps all the time) I would carry some electrical tape to
because it can do a temp repair on a radiator hose too. Basically
though if you keep your ride in good order to begin with, you will not
likely have problems in the wild. Look it over and if the hose or
lines be it fuel or brake look questionable, replace then in your
driveway, not in the wild.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Roy - 30 Jan 2007 15:17 GMT
>>> If it were your truck (specifically Tom Lawrence) what would you do?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>>worn
>>chain.

Snip a bunch of stuff that Tom already posted.

Now, how about you answer Denny's question!!!

> TheWrongAnswer.com
SnoMan - 30 Jan 2007 16:06 GMT
>Now, how about you answer Denny's question!!!

How about growing up and getting a life. I do not dance on your
string. When I see the trolls come out, I waste no more time with a
thread. Some come here looking for help while other such as yourself
come looking for trouble and nothing more.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Roy - 30 Jan 2007 17:20 GMT
>>Now, how about you answer Denny's question!!!
>
> How about growing up and getting a life. I do not dance on your
> string. When I see the trolls come out, I waste no more time with a
> thread.

Denny asked you a question based on your answer. I guess by avoiding and not
answering a valid question as usual, points to another one of your BS
answer's.

Some come here looking for help while other such as yourself
> come looking for trouble and nothing more.

Told you months ago that I found your answer's wrong, dangerous, and if
followed at time expensive. Further told you that I had all sort's of time
to point out where your post's are BS.
Sorry you don't like it, all you have to do is stop posting BS answer's.
Failing that learn to live with it.

Time to adjust your sig.

> -----------------
> TheBSAnswerMan.com
Ed H. - 31 Jan 2007 02:15 GMT
>>Over 100K would make me wary of the water pump, as well.  I might change
>>that as a preventive measure, and would definitely change it if it turned
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> change it is I had it off to replace timing chain. 100K+ on a pump is
> getting up there and it mau be reaching end of service life.

I think he was refering to having to remove the water pump in order to
replace the timing chain.  One of those while you're at it... PM jobs.
Ed H. - 02 Feb 2007 03:17 GMT
Sorry snowjob, I tend to overlook your posts.  As I mentioned in my original
post I change _all_ fluids.

> No mention of changinf Tcase or axle lubes. THis should have been done
> long ago and is often overlooked
Ed H. - 31 Jan 2007 00:31 GMT
The timing chain was my primary concern but I didn't want to mention it so
people would respond without my putting that goblin in their mind.  I'll
certainly check it and may just go ahead and replace it and the water pump.

I carry most of the stuff you mentioned, but will go ahead and purchase a
wheel bearing now.

As always, good information and thanks.
Stormin Mormon - 31 Jan 2007 12:22 GMT
As Tom said, timing chain is a serious concern. Something to
check.

What comes to mind to me, are both the "what to pack" issues, and
"how to go about the trip".

Tires. Being 100 miles from the paved, I'd want a spare wheel.
Tire plug kit, Fix a Flat, and the lighter socket power air
compressor. Tires are a serious concern. Farmer jack might be
useful, in addition to the scissors jack. Breaker bar and impact
socket set.

The other concern which came to mind is getting stuck. Definitely
have a come-along winch, and chain and rope. I've gotten my truck
stuck in the mud one time, where I had a tree in the right
dirction, but no come along tool. That was embarassing. If
possible, travel with another group, and take turns going ahead.

Communication. I'd bring the cell phone, even if you think you
won't be in service area. Sometimes you can get a signal from a
hill top, or top of a tree. CB and FRS are also good for short
range comms. Satelite phone, I've never used one but hear they
are expensive but worth it.

Fluids. Gasoline comes to mind. Please buy good gasoline, such as
Mobil or Exxon. Nevermind the save 2 cents a galon crap gasoline.
And a couple bottles of alcohol drygas. Water, both for you to
drink and also for the vehicle cooling system. Oil, and
transmission fluid. In a pinch, you can use Dexron II in place of
motor oil to get you out of a spot. Dexron II also used as
steering fluid. Brake fluid. Couple cans of ether starting spray.

Plan on maybe having to spend a night in a tent. Unless that's
already part of the plans. Tent, and multiple ways to light and
kindle a camp fire. Lighter, matches flint.

First aid kit. And medications you usually take, plus the ones
you don't want to need (pack the pain pills you got after your
last dentist apointment).

I'd suggest to post this question to alt.survival and
misc.survivalism and rec.backcountry where you will get different
(and possibly better) advice than what I've written.

Generally, the part that breaks is the one you left home.

Signature

Christopher A. Young
 You can't shout down a troll.
 You have to starve them.
.

> '99 Ram 5.9L 4X4 automatic.
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> If it were your truck (specifically Tom Lawrence) what would you do?
Ed H. - 01 Feb 2007 01:58 GMT
> What comes to mind to me, are both the "what to pack" issues, and
> "how to go about the trip".

Thanks for the advice.  I carry all that stuff and more.  For this trip I'll
even take 2 spare tires.

> Generally, the part that breaks is the one you left home.
Ain't that the truth!
Roy - 31 Jan 2007 13:24 GMT
> '99 Ram 5.9L 4X4 automatic.
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> If it were your truck (specifically Tom Lawrence) what would you do?

There's a ton of good advice written on what to bring. Here's a couple of
more from my beach playing day's. A couple of 2x12's a foot long to put the
jack on, in case your in mud or sand. Also some other blocking just in case.
If need be you can always burn it. A air tank, a compressor is good but
sometimes not fast enough to catch the repaired area of a tire. The ones
where ya rip the sidewall a bit on a rock and have a handful of plugs and
slime in the tire. A hunk of that blue plastic 9x12, folds up small and
gives you something to lie on, keeps you dry. Also make's a stretcher for
worse case situations.
Nosey - 31 Jan 2007 13:30 GMT
> There's a ton of good advice written on what to bring.

Here's a good checklist:
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Offroaders_Checklist.htm
Signature

Ken

Roy - 31 Jan 2007 13:51 GMT
>> There's a ton of good advice written on what to bring.
>
> Here's a good checklist:
> http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Offroaders_Checklist.htm
Ken, I read that list, the beyond basic one. I don't think any of us have a
truck/trailer big enough or all the permits needed to take it all with
us.<VBG>
Boy, they sure cover it though. Thanks for the link.

Roy
Ed H. - 01 Feb 2007 03:47 GMT
> Boy, they sure cover it though. Thanks for the link.
>
> Roy

And how!
I by no means carry every thing they list, especially in the way of spare
parts (thus the reason for my original post), but a few things I think they
missed are:
Axe
JB weld (can be used on fuel lines, gas tanks, oil pans, etc.)
Spare distributor cap and rotor
Sorbent Material for containing and/or cleaning spilled fluids
First Aid
-Naproxen as an anti-inflammatory and anti-menstrual cramping aid
-Moleskin for use on blisters
-Cough suppressants
-Mouth barrier for CPR
-Eye, nose, mouth shield
Stormin Mormon - 31 Jan 2007 15:41 GMT
Best list I've seen in awhile. Of course, the list presumes that
you know a bit about how to use each of the tools. I'd guess that
most of the folks on this list are good repair persons.

Signature

Christopher A. Young
 You can't shout down a troll.
 You have to starve them.
.

> > There's a ton of good advice written on what to bring.
>
> Here's a good checklist:
> http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Offroaders_Checklist.htm
Mike Simmons - 01 Feb 2007 00:08 GMT
> Best list I've seen in awhile. Of course, the list presumes that
> you know a bit about how to use each of the tools. I'd guess that
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> Here's a good checklist:
>> http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Offroaders_Checklist.htm

Y'all fergot the most important thing!!  BEER!!  Oh yeah, and don't ferget
spare fuses for your heated seats!!

;^)

Mike
Ed H. - 01 Feb 2007 02:00 GMT
> A hunk of that blue plastic 9x12, folds up small and gives you something
> to lie on, keeps you dry. Also make's a stretcher for worse case
> situations.

I hadn't thought of that.  I take coveralls incase I need to crawl under,
but a tarp would make finding dropped parts a lot easier too.
Bob M - 01 Feb 2007 19:09 GMT
>>A hunk of that blue plastic 9x12, folds up small and gives you something
>>to lie on, keeps you dry. Also make's a stretcher for worse case
>>situations.
>
> I hadn't thought of that.  I take coveralls incase I need to crawl under,
> but a tarp would make finding dropped parts a lot easier too.

 Or like me. I always end up with a screw or too extra after I put
things back together. I always wonder how those things multiply when I
have something apart. Either that or I'm seeing double from the beer.

Bob
 
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