Two big problems with my truck

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newworldactor@yahoo.com - 05 Apr 2007 22:52 GMT

Truck: 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 (bought used in 2003)

I just changed the rotors (and brakes), to do so I had to remove the
hub(s). First let me tell you something I found when took the wheels
off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the
hub/rotor assembly. Both Hubs are torque'd to 150 pounds.

Now to the problems:

Problem 1:

On the drivers side I noticed that the rotor "wobbles" a little, could
this be because of the LACK of a spacer? or is there another problem
(bearing, etc) ?

Problem 2:

On the drivers side only, I smell "grease", could the rotor wobble be
heating up this side causing the wheel bearing grease to heat up? Or
something else?

Thank you

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Tom Lawrence - 05 Apr 2007 23:21 GMT

> hub(s). First let me tell you something I found when took the wheels
> off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the
> hub/rotor assembly. Both Hubs are torque'd to 150 pounds.

That spacer was put on to address a brake pull condition. My '99 had it
new - I suspect it was a TSB issued previously, and was put on yours during
some dealer service the previous owner had done.

> On the drivers side I noticed that the rotor "wobbles" a little, could
> this be because of the LACK of a spacer? or is there another problem
> (bearing, etc) ?

No - nothing to do with the spacer (as the spacer sits between the hub and
the wheel). If the rotor's not running true, it's either warped, or not
pressed on to the hub assembly properly.

> On the drivers side only, I smell "grease", could the rotor wobble be
> heating up this side causing the wheel bearing grease to heat up? Or
> something else?

Got an infrared thermometer? Shoot both hubs after driving a while, and see
if there's a temperature differential.

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Midlant - 05 Apr 2007 23:56 GMT

Should I be looking for this spacer on my 96? I am going to be changing
my front brakes in the next week or two. Didn't know I had to pull the
hubs.
John

>> hub(s). First let me tell you something I found when took the wheels
>> off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Got an infrared thermometer? Shoot both hubs after driving a while,
> and see if there's a temperature differential.

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Tom Lawrence - 06 Apr 2007 04:15 GMT

> Should I be looking for this spacer on my 96?

Well - I never said it actually helped :) I took it off my '99 when I put
different wheels/tires on, and never noticed a problem. I think it was just
another attempt to fix a somewhat problematic braking system.

> I am going to be changing my front brakes in the next week or two. Didn't
> know I had to pull the hubs.

If you want to get the rotors off, yes, you do. I don't subscribe to the
theory of always turning the rotors. I check them with a micrometer and a
dial indicator, and if they're within spec (much harder to warp these
larger/thicker rotors), I just go over them with a brake disc on an air
sander to break the glaze.

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TBone - 06 Apr 2007 18:30 GMT

> > Should I be looking for this spacer on my 96?
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> larger/thicker rotors), I just go over them with a brake disc on an air
> sander to break the glaze.

Where did you get a "brake disk"?

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Tom Lawrence - 06 Apr 2007 20:40 GMT

> Where did you get a "brake disk"?

Most auto parts places. Truth be told, it's not much more than a scotch
brite pad - it just says it's "designed" for brake rotors. Heck, some 120
grit sandpaper would probably do just as well. Just don't go nuts with
it... . if you see sparks, well - you're going nuts with it :)

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Midlant - 06 Apr 2007 23:50 GMT

Thanks Tom. I didn't think I had to take the all that off just to
replace the pads. On my bikes and anything else I use a little emory
cloth or what's lying around to scuff any glaze. It's always worked for
me. No squeaks or squeals. Hose down with break cleaner and wha lah.
Thank you again.
John

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Tom Lawrence - 07 Apr 2007 00:17 GMT

> Thanks Tom. I didn't think I had to take the all that off just to replace
> the pads. On my bikes and anything else I use a little emory cloth or
> what's lying around to scuff any glaze. It's always worked for me. No
> squeaks or squeals. Hose down with break cleaner and wha lah.

Yep - in that case, just a 3/8" allen wrench to pull the two caliper slide
bolts, and off comes the caliper with the pads in it. Don't forget to
clean/re-grease the slide pins, as well as a light coat of brake grease on
the rails of the caliper mount (where the caliper slides back and forth).
If you have a dial indicator, it's worth a quick check of the rotors for
run-out. I think the spec is stamped on the rotors.

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Midlant - 07 Apr 2007 15:20 GMT

Thank you Tom. You're a blessing.
John

>> Thanks Tom. I didn't think I had to take the all that off just to
>> replace the pads. On my bikes and anything else I use a little emory
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> quick check of the rotors for run-out. I think the spec is stamped on
> the rotors.

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