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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / May 2007

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Different Front Brake Pad Usage

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axel - 24 Apr 2007 04:58 GMT
I bought my truck with 30,000 miles on it about 6 years ago.  Now I
have about 104,000 miles on it.  At 75,000 miles (about two years ago)
I had to have my front brakes done.  Unfortunatly the front brakes -
don't remember exactly which site but I strongly believe it was the
left site -  suddenly started grinding on my way to work one day and I
had them fixed the same day at a shop next to my work place - didn't
really have another choice.  I was told that the pads on one site -
again I believe the left side - were completely gone, but the other
site obviously had to be done as well.  They blamed it on the caliper
not retracting on that site so that they were used more than the other
site.  So they also replaced the calipers and the rotors and new
pads.  As I had not checked the brakes myself and needed the car, I
had to believe them and I just had to pay.  I assume that the brakes
must have been done right before I bought the car, so I got about
45,000 miles out of the front.  My rear brakes were adjusted only.
Now the grinding started again about 29,000 miles later.  I am about
5,000 miles above the warranty of the above described brake job, so
there is no chance they will give me something for free, so I will
attempt to do the brakes myself this time.
I checked them out this weekend, haven't actually replaced them yet.
Turns out that the inner pad on the driver side seems to be completely
gone, the driver side outside pad still looks ok.  The passenger side
pads look much better.  What is actually grinding - not every time I
brake however - is the upper caliper bolt on the driver side touching
the most outside edge of the disc.  The truck is not pulling to either
side when breaking nor does it seem that the break performance
degraded in a noticable way.
When looking at the pads and caliper piston through the little
openings in the caliper housing, I noticed that the rubber boot
covering the piston is damaged, hanging loose, looking rotten.  The
dust cap however seems intact.  I will run to the store to check what
a new one is supposed to look like.  Found a couple good articles on
the net two, but the pictures don't show that part in the detail
needed for me to make a decision.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60246
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/brakepadreplace.htm
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/caliper.php
http://home.insightbb.com/%7Ejbenner/mods/Brakejob.htm

Here my questions:
- Does it seem normal that the driver side pads are used significantly
more than the passenger side?  Again, the truck does not pull side
ways when breaking.  The truck is equipped with standard rear wheel
anti lock break system, in other words, there is nothing controlling
pressure between the left and right front, its one line coming from
the combination valve to the T that splits between the left and the
right.  However the break lines to the left side are obviously a lot
shorter then to the right.  Don't know if that contributes to the
different usage.  It seems odd however.
- Do I need to replace the caliper again because the dust boots are
gone?  I am ok with the pads replacement, but the caliper should last
longer than 2 years. Is there potentially a caliper repair kit
available or is it not worth the effort?

Thanks for sharing your experience.
Axel
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Pickup 5.9l 104,000 miles
Tom Lawrence - 24 Apr 2007 05:47 GMT
Replace the rubber brake hoses this time - they deteriorate over time, and
can cause residual pressure to remain at the caliper, causing excessive
wear.  They cost about $20 each.
SnoMan - 24 Apr 2007 13:44 GMT
>Replace the rubber brake hoses this time - they deteriorate over time, and
>can cause residual pressure to remain at the caliper, causing excessive
>wear.  They cost about $20 each.

This is not a bad tip but you might also check the wheel bearing
endplay too because if it it too tight and it does not alllow the
rotors to float or flex a bit ( maybe 5 to 10 thousandths or so) to
further retract the pads into caliper it can cause them the drag a bit
and wear sooner. One more thing, it is hard to rate brake life because
it has a lot to do with how you drive and use your brakes because
while normal might be 50 or more for one person it might be 20 or 30 K
for another because of their driving habits.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
axel - 25 Apr 2007 01:01 GMT
On Apr 24, 12:47 am, "Tom Lawrence"
<tNlOaSwPrAeMnMcIe...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Replace the rubber brake hoses this time - they deteriorate over time, and
> can cause residual pressure to remain at the caliper, causing excessive
> wear.  They cost about $20 each.

Checked out the cost for the hoses, they are $19 for right side and
$32 for left side at the local parts store.

I also checked on a caliper repair kit:  It's about $7 per caliber
piston and includes the seal and the rubber dust boot which is the one
which is rottened away on all four caliper pistons.  Anybody out there
who has replaced the caliper piston seal and rubber dust boot before?
I would spend only $14 per side id I do that rather than buying an
entire caliper which will cost me about $54 per side after turning my
old once in.  Just figuring out if its worth the effort and we are
also talking about brakes here which need to be safe.

Axel
aarcuda69062 - 25 Apr 2007 02:38 GMT
In article
<1177459273.164387.54040@t39g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,

> On Apr 24, 12:47 am, "Tom Lawrence"
> <tNlOaSwPrAeMnMcIe...@earthlink.net> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Axel

You need to factor in the cost of new pistons also.
If the caliper is sticking causing the uneven/premature brake
wear, it's the piston jamming in the bore because it's rusting
due to the damaged boot. Once the plating is damaged on the
piston, there's no saving it...
You'll also want to buy a brake cylinder hone to hone the caliper
bores as part of the rebuild, and you'll need a way to properly
install the boot without distorting it.

By the time you're all done, you'll probably be better off
getting a set of re-man calipers.
Greg O - 25 Apr 2007 03:10 GMT
> In article
> <1177459273.164387.54040@t39g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> By the time you're all done, you'll probably be better off
> getting a set of re-man calipers.

Agreed.
Greg
samstone@aol.com - 25 Apr 2007 03:37 GMT
>By the time you're all done, you'll probably be better off
>getting a set of re-man calipers.

I'll third this suggestion.
SnoMan - 25 Apr 2007 14:08 GMT
>If the caliper is sticking causing the uneven/premature brake
>wear, it's the piston jamming in the bore because it's rusting
>due to the damaged boot. Once the plating is damaged on the
>piston, there's no saving it...

No arguement there. Most calipers fail because of this which cause
pads to not retract properly ad wear faster.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
axel - 01 May 2007 03:29 GMT
Well, I started this thread so let me tell you what I ended up doing:
I went to 4 different auto parts stores.  They all listed the caliper
repair kit ranging from $ 10 to $22, but no one caried them.  The
closest I got was that the warehouse had 1 (I would have needed 4)
which they would have needed to ship.  So, I ended up buying 2
remanufactured calipers, which cost about $54 each after returning the
old cores.  Spend $50 on some good pads plus a bottle of brake fluid
and a clear hose for bleeding.  I had my rotors turned for $10 each.
So overall it cost me under $200 and while I was working on the truck
in front of our garage, my wife and our two daughters were outside
with me and we actually had a nice afternoon.  They brakes feel great
now and I will do my rear brakes (drums) soon.

Thanks for all the advise.
Axel
axel - 01 May 2007 03:54 GMT
What I forgot to mention is the following regarding the different wear
I was concerned about:  I started out saying that this is the 1st
brake job I did.  Well, after seeing how fat the new pads are, I take
back that I have a problem with significantly different wear.  I would
say compared to the driver side inner pad, which was 100% gone, the
passenger side inner pad was about 90% gone.  So, I consider this
normal and like stated above, I replaced what I thought was necessary.

Thanks again.
Axel
SnoMan - 01 May 2007 12:52 GMT
>What I forgot to mention is the following regarding the different wear
>I was concerned about:  I started out saying that this is the 1st
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>passenger side inner pad was about 90% gone.  So, I consider this
>normal and like stated above, I replaced what I thought was necessary.

It is not unusual for the to be samll differences in pad wear. When
you have a sticky caliper there will be BIG differences in pad wear
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Greg O - 24 Apr 2007 23:47 GMT
> Here my questions:
> - Does it seem normal that the driver side pads are used significantly
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Axel
> 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Pickup 5.9l 104,000 miles

If the dust cover/boot is torn that covers the piston it is very likely the
piston is sticking slightly, causing that side to wear faster. You need to
replace or rebuild that caliper. Check the prices on kits or a rebuilt
caliper. Often there is not enough price difference to justify the time
spent rebuilding the caliper yourself.
The pads should wear equally on the same axle, but they will not be exactly
the same, a small bit of variance is not unusual. If one pad is shot, and
the other is 1/2, I would be looking for a problem. As far as life of brake
pads, more money spent usually means longer pad life. although more
expensive pads are harder and wear the rotors faster too. Once I had brakes
done by a local shop. I told them to put in the highest quality pads they
had, which in turn lasted 20,000 miles! They billed me about $35 for the
pads so I knew by the price they sold me some crap. After that I always did
the brake work myself. Pads cost me about $65, but they would last 65,000 -
75,000 miles too!
Greg
 
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