2000 dodge ram engine control fuse

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edtheward - 06 Sep 2007 00:36 GMT

anybody have a clue why my engine control fuse would keep blowing? My
truck recently died on the road, got it towed to a service station,
turned out to be the fuse. they replaced it and the guy told me if I
put a 35 amp fuse in ( it takes a 30) I probably would not have a
problem again. well, THEY put in a 30 and within thirty minuttes of
driving it blew again. I swapped a 40 in there ( pulled from the tow
lights fuse) and got back home. going to go buy some spare fuses, but
was wondering if anyone had a clue why it would do that, and what
issues I might run into if I put a bigger fuse in.

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Beryl - 06 Sep 2007 01:12 GMT

> ... and what issues I might run into if I put a bigger fuse in.

Melting wires instead of fuses. You're heading for bigger problems going
to 35 amps, 40 amps...

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Tom Lawrence - 06 Sep 2007 01:55 GMT

> problem again. well, THEY put in a 30 and within thirty minuttes of
> driving it blew again. I swapped a 40 in there ( pulled from the tow
> lights fuse) and got back home. going to go buy some spare fuses, but
> was wondering if anyone had a clue why it would do that, and what
> issues I might run into if I put a bigger fuse in.

Fuses blow for a reason. That particular fuse powers the ASD relay, which
in turn powers the fuel injectors (I'm assuming a gasoline engine here) and
ignition coil. Check the wiring harness for any damage between the Power
Distribution Center and these components. It's possible one of the fuel
injector solenoids is drawing too much current, and causing your problem.

Putting in a larger fuse will (may) mask the problem, but allow for the
overloading of the wires in your wiring harness. That leads to just as hard
a breakdown, only the fix is much more complicated.

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Max Dodge - 06 Sep 2007 02:18 GMT

> Putting in a larger fuse will (may) mask the problem, but allow for the
> overloading of the wires in your wiring harness. That leads to just as
> hard a breakdown, only the fix is much more complicated.

And may involve a fire extinguisher.

Signature

Max

"Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, he is not entitled to his own
facts." Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynihan of New York

>> problem again. well, THEY put in a 30 and within thirty minuttes of
>> driving it blew again. I swapped a 40 in there ( pulled from the tow
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> overloading of the wires in your wiring harness. That leads to just as
> hard a breakdown, only the fix is much more complicated.

Reply to this Message

Bill Dukenfield - 06 Sep 2007 04:33 GMT

> > Putting in a larger fuse will (may) mask the problem, but allow for the
> > overloading of the wires in your wiring harness. That leads to just as
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> --
> Max

Ya, when I was in the Navy we called that the smoke test. Jumper the
fuse and see what smokes!

JAM

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EDTHEWARD - 06 Sep 2007 19:15 GMT

yes, it is a gas powered 360 magnum.

thanks for the replies. both times the fuse blew I was accelerating from a
stop sign or pulling out onto a road. I guess that may point to the
injectors.

any way I can properly test this on my own? or test the current at the
fuse? I am not an idiot when it comes to vehicles, but far from a mechanic.
some sort of suggestion would be of help. I am a little peeved that the shop
I went to fixed the fuse but did not look farther into why it was happening.

I bought a few spare 30amp fuses so If I do try anything I have a backup in
case it is still blowing fuses.

thanks again for the replies. If anyone has any more suggestions I would be
glad to hear them.

I will be inspecting the wiring harness cables ( that I can get to) visually
first.

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Tom Lawrence - 06 Sep 2007 20:24 GMT

> any way I can properly test this on my own? or test the current at the
> fuse?

Well, not much point in testing the current at the fuse... it's already
telling you it's >30A.

You can do a quick test on the injectors... disconnect the electrical
connector (carefully... those little locking tabs tend to get brittle over
time, and can break easily) from each injector, and measure the resistance
across the injector terminals. The FSM says you should measure 12 ohms, +/-
1.2 ohms (10.8 to 13.2). Do this when the engine is cold.

Reply to this Message

EDTHEWARD - 06 Sep 2007 21:09 GMT

>> any way I can properly test this on my own? or test the current at the
>> fuse?
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> resistance across the injector terminals. The FSM says you should measure
> 12 ohms, +/- 1.2 ohms (10.8 to 13.2). Do this when the engine is cold.

what kind of tester do you recommend?

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Tom Lawrence - 06 Sep 2007 22:48 GMT

> what kind of tester do you recommend?

Any digital multimeter would be fine. If you're going to buy one, you don't
have to spend a lot of money, but make sure you get one that takes "normal"
(AA, AAA, 9V) batteries, and not some hard-to-find specialty battery.

The one I normally use on my vehicles cost me less than $20, IIRC.

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Beryl - 07 Sep 2007 01:38 GMT

>>what kind of tester do you recommend?
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> The one I normally use on my vehicles cost me less than $20, IIRC.

I use one like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899
'cept mine is yellow.

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