Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / January 2008

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

'99 Ram 1500 battery drain in 10 days

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Ed H. - 19 Dec 2007 04:57 GMT
I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning the
main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even release
because they had no power). I suspect I may have to replace the main battery
after being drained so thoroughly.  I have a battery isolator/combiner which
allowed me to start the truck and after a few minutes of charging it idled
smoothly and I was able to drive it the rest of the day without incident.
The main battery is only a few years old.  It has sat for up to a week
before without any problem.  I haven't had a chance to have the main battery
tested or to check my "truck off" current draw.  So either...

1) The main battery needs service/replacement.
2) The isolator/combiner is drawing current from the main battery.
3) I have a current draw somewhere unrelated to the isolator/combiner.
4) 14 days is too long to allow the truck to sit without a battery
maintainer.

What is the "normal" current draw while the truck is shutdown, and how many
days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery to sit
idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?
nunya - 20 Dec 2007 13:25 GMT
>I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning the
>main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even release
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> many days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery to
> sit idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?

you say the battery is only a few years old.  how many is a few?  down here
in the south where we get periods of 100 degree days it has a tendency to
kill batteries during the heat.  what is your climate like?  i would figure
out how old that battery is and test it before i went looking for more
complicated issues.  if the battery checks out then dig deeper.
michael
Ed H. - 21 Dec 2007 03:20 GMT
>>I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning the
>>main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even release
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> for more complicated issues.  if the battery checks out then dig deeper.
> michael

The battery is about 2 years old, the climate here is almost perfect except
for the wind.  We complain about the heat when it reaches 90F and the cold
when it reaches 50F, (yet we don't complain when the winds are at 35+ MPH
from noon to sunset, unless it's a "cold" day) so I think the battery should
be good, but I don't know how long it sat at the autoparts store before I
bought it.  I had a 6 year old battery in my Scout II tested while I was
looking into starting problems with the Scout and it held 650 amps (the
battery's rated CCA) for a minute with no problem.  I realize the age and
performance of that battery doesn't translate to this battery.

I also recieved some good information about the ignition off drain (IOD)
this truck should experience and a few tips on how to trouble shoot, so I
think I'm armed with the knowledge I need, now all I need is the time.

If I find that the IOD is within parameters, I'll have the battery tested.
Beryl - 21 Dec 2007 04:02 GMT
>>>I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning the
>>>main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even release
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>
> If I find that the IOD is within parameters, I'll have the battery tested.

punkin sez check for an open relay.

Dead Batteries
http://tinyurl.com/32elzj

"Check for an open relay, etc."
- punkin, May 15, 7:38 pm
Ed H. - 21 Dec 2007 06:38 GMT
>>>>I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning
>>>>the main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
> "Check for an open relay, etc."
> - punkin, May 15, 7:38 pm

Thanks, and Merry Christmas.
nitpik - 02 Jan 2008 17:46 GMT
Put a DC ammeter in line with your battery and cable and see how many amps
it's drawing and then disconnect one thing at a time until you see it drop
significantly.  Often times the alternator can have a broken diode that will
suck the life out of a battery, and yet still charge the battery.  Start
with the alternator.

Go back to one battery for these tests, remove the stuff in between the two
batteries.

>I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning the
>main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even release
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> many days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery to
> sit idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?
Ed H. - 04 Jan 2008 00:38 GMT
> Put a DC ammeter in line with your battery and cable and see how many amps
> it's drawing and then disconnect one thing at a time until you see it drop
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Go back to one battery for these tests, remove the stuff in between the
> two batteries.

Yeah, I did all that and found about a 0.7 amp draw unless I remove the IOD
fuse (which seems high to me) and a 0.46 amp draw with the IOD fuse in, but
the Seatbelt Timing Control Module unplugged.  I think I'll just continue to
pull the IOD fuse when it will be parked for a while.

>>I have a '99 Ram that I haven't driven in about 14 days.  This morning the
>>main battery was dead (the seat belt tensioners wouldn't even release
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>> many days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery
>> to sit idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?
PeterD - 04 Jan 2008 14:15 GMT
>Yeah, I did all that and found about a 0.7 amp draw unless I remove the IOD
>fuse (which seems high to me)

0.7 is high...

>and a 0.46 amp draw with the IOD fuse in, but
>the Seatbelt Timing Control Module unplugged.  

0.46 is borderline. Best below 0.40 if you can.

Generally speaking make sure your test is done about 30 minutes after
the last thing done on the vehicle (close doors, don't reopen them,
etc.) wait 30 minutes then test. Some circuits will draw current for a
while then shut themselves off after an predetermined interval.
Ed H. - 04 Jan 2008 19:49 GMT
>>Yeah, I did all that and found about a 0.7 amp draw unless I remove the
>>IOD
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> etc.) wait 30 minutes then test. Some circuits will draw current for a
> while then shut themselves off after an predetermined interval.

Thanks.  I know the CTM should shut off after about 2 minutes and the SCTM
after about 30 minutes.  The problem is my digital multimeter shuts off
after 15 minutes, and my ammeter isn't sensitive enough to see a difference.
I should get an old fashioned analog multimeter with the correct
sensitivity.  Everything is working (at least for now), so I've learned how
to live with it.
Fearless Fred - 05 Jan 2008 22:05 GMT
Had a very similar problem ... if it's a Quad Cab let me know.  I'll let you
know what I found with mine.

Fred

> Put a DC ammeter in line with your battery and cable and see how many amps
> it's drawing and then disconnect one thing at a time until you see it drop
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>> many days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery
>> to sit idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?
Roy - 05 Jan 2008 23:54 GMT
> Had a very similar problem ... if it's a Quad Cab let me know.  I'll let
> you know what I found with mine.

Gotta ask, wtf does the number of doors have to do with it
Fearless Fred - 11 Jan 2008 01:21 GMT
Hey Roy!

It has to do with the seat belt system they had to come up with for the quad
cab.

Belts are not attached to the body but to the seat structure.  They are
electrically locked in a collision.

Fred

>> Had a very similar problem ... if it's a Quad Cab let me know.  I'll let
>> you know what I found with mine.
>>
> Gotta ask, wtf does the number of doors have to do with it
Ed H. - 06 Jan 2008 03:58 GMT
> Had a very similar problem ... if it's a Quad Cab let me know.  I'll let
> you know what I found with mine.

It is a quad cab.

> Fred
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>>> many days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery
>>> to sit idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?
Fearless Fred - 11 Jan 2008 01:17 GMT
The quad cab has a motion sensor under the seat as the seat belts aren't
anchored to the door posts.

There is a wiring harness under the seat that connects to the motion sensing
device to lock the seat belts in case of collision.

The plug that connects this harness under the seat shorts and you have
current flowing all the time.

If you would like to know how to fix this drop me a note.

Drop the j in the email address.

Fred

>> Had a very similar problem ... if it's a Quad Cab let me know.  I'll let
>> you know what I found with mine.
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>>>> many days should I expect a stock (or replacement of like kind) battery
>>>> to sit idle and still be able to provide cranking amps?
PeterD - 11 Jan 2008 15:01 GMT
>The quad cab has a motion sensor under the seat as the seat belts aren't
>anchored to the door posts.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>If you would like to know how to fix this drop me a note.

Maybe you could post it here, that way it will be in the archives for
future searches...
Roy - 11 Jan 2008 16:16 GMT
>>The quad cab has a motion sensor under the seat as the seat belts aren't
>>anchored to the door posts.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Maybe you could post it here, that way it will be in the archives for
> future searches...

Really! If this guy has the fix... Guess we need the jaws of life to pry the
answer out of him. Ed has had this problem for a few weeks. I'm sure he
would like to see it posred as well.
Fearless Fred - 13 Jan 2008 23:09 GMT
Sorry guys ... been very busy lately and truck is in storage.

I will go over there this week and get the info on which conductor on that
harness that you have to cut and splice through.  You have to bypass the
plug or replace the wiring harness under that seat to fix this problem.

Fred

>>>The quad cab has a motion sensor under the seat as the seat belts aren't
>>>anchored to the door posts.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> the answer out of him. Ed has had this problem for a few weeks. I'm sure
> he would like to see it posred as well.
Fearless Fred - 18 Jan 2008 00:14 GMT
Hi Guys!

Finally got a chance to have a look at the truck in storage.

The fix is to splice the light blue conductor going into the multi conductor
plug under the driver's seat.  Cut the wire on both sides of the plug and
butt splice it around the connector.

The problem is an internal short in the multi conductor plug under the seat
that develops over time.

Sorry for the delay.

Fred
> Sorry guys ... been very busy lately and truck is in storage.
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>> the answer out of him. Ed has had this problem for a few weeks. I'm sure
>> he would like to see it posred as well.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.