> How exactly are you hooking your gauge to the fuel rail. Does your vehicle
> have a test port? If so, did you test the pressure with the vehicle
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> > all I have to do is figure out why it does not run. I have spark, but
> > is the coil putting out enough juice?
>> How exactly are you hooking your gauge to the fuel rail. Does your
>> vehicle
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> doesn't start. I still have good spark. Could it be the crank position
> sensor? Is there any way to check that?
How much fuel are you spraying into the throttle body? It take more fuel
than you might think to get it to fire off that way. How do you know that
you have good spark? Do you have a timing light? If so, make sure that you
are firing off that spark at the correct time. There are a few tests that
you can perform to see where the problem is. As said before, use a timing
light to make sure that the spark is being triggered and at the correct
time. This will help to confirm that the crank and cam position sensors are
working. The next easy thing to do would be a compression check on a few
cylinders. Low compression across the board could indicate a jumped timing
chain. Since you are lucky enough to have a fuel test port, there are a few
things that you could do there as well. Hook up your gauge and turn on the
ignition to build up pressure then turn off the ignition and see if and how
fast the pressure leaks down. If it leaks down quickly that would indicate
either a leaking injector or a failing check valve in the fuel pump but that
in itself probably wouldn't
stop your vehicle from running. If it holds pressure, then remove the fuel
pump relay and turn have someone turn the key to the start position and
watch the fuel pressure. It should fall off fairly quickly and if not, you
are not injecting any fuel.
To diagnose that, you would need either an analog multi-meter or a digital
volt meter and a continuity light. Disconnect the electrical connector from
one of the injectors and with the ignition on, check for 12V between one of
the pins in the injectors electrical connector and ground. You may need to
crank it for a few seconds while performing this check for the computer to
sense the engine cranking and power up the injectors. If you get no voltage
on either pin, then the injectors are not being powered up which could be
caused by a wiring problem, bad computer, or IIRC, a failing crank position
sensor. If you get power on one pin and you are using an analog multi-meter
(needle type), then set it to continuity and connect one lead to the other
pin and the other to ground and have someone crank the engine. You should
see the meter pulse as the engine cranks. The computer fires the injector
by pulsing its ground connection. Digital multi-meters don't work well here
as the pulse is to short for many of them to respond properly. If you are
using a continuity light, it should flash briefly as the engine cranks. If
no ground pulse is detected, then again, you could have a wiring problem
(ground issue), a bad computer, or the cam position sensor is failing.
Since you are getting spark, it seems unlikely that either sensor is the
problem and in most cases, either one of them would set a code and light the
check engine light if they were not working. It seems to me with the
conditions that you described up to this point like you got some bad fuel
that either has excessive water or has plugged the injectors and that's
where I would look.

Signature
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
Jeepers363 - 03 Feb 2008 18:03 GMT
> >> How exactly are you hooking your gauge to the fuel rail. Does your
> >> vehicle
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> --
> If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
Clogged cat converter. Runs like a top now.