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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / March 2008

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96 Ram 1500 - 318 - Oil light

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Ann - 09 Mar 2008 13:42 GMT
Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil problem.

I have a '96 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 318 5.2L.  Last month I had the plenum
gasket replaced.  After that, my check engine light came on and the code
came up as the EVAP code.  They checked all the hoses on the intake
and cleared the code.  Then just two weeks ago I had the thermostat changed
out because I was having erratic heat temperatures coming out the vents
at idle.

Now, I have my oil light coming on. This only happens if the truck runs
for a good 2hrs in city driving.  Above 40 at cold and after warming up.
After the 2hrs, I come to any stop sign or a complete stop and the truck
is at idle.  The light will come on and the needle will drop way low (enough
for the lite to come on) and start to flicker.  I checked the oil level and
it is at the "safe" level.  I know it blows blue smoke but it has been doing
it for years.  Oil pressure gauge jumps back to normal while driving.

I am at a loss.  I had one place tell me it might be the pistons/rings or
valves
that need replaced.  I am not sure if it might be a bad job when they
replaced
the plenum gasket.  Just at a loss and would like to know if anyone else
had this problem or if anyone knows what the problem is.

Hate to get rid of this truck, since it has been a great truck and with
almost
150,000 miles on it.

Any help would be appreciated.
PeterD - 09 Mar 2008 14:28 GMT
>Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
>have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil problem.
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
>Any help would be appreciated.

Long post with little useful information:

1. What oil does it have in it?
2. When was the last oil change?
3. What kind/brand oil filter?
4. Have you put on a known good/accurate oil pressure guage to confirm
the reading?

I'd guess it was running cold, never warming up. Then the new
thermostat let it warm up and now the oil is thin, and it can't keep
oil pressure.

Maybe a heaverweight oil might give you a few more miles.
Ralph - 09 Mar 2008 15:21 GMT
> Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
> have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Any help would be appreciated.

Same thing happened to my '96 two years ago.  Replaced the oil pressure
switch and resolved the issue.  The part was $40 if I remember correctly.

Ralph
TBone - 09 Mar 2008 17:47 GMT
> Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
> have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> came up as the EVAP code.  They checked all the hoses on the intake
> and cleared the code.

It sounds to me like they forgot to connect something when they re-installed
the intake.

>  Then just two weeks ago I had the thermostat changed
> out because I was having erratic heat temperatures coming out the vents
> at idle.

Was the temp guage jumping around as well.  That is usually more of an
indication of low fluid rather than a defective thremostat.

> Now, I have my oil light coming on. This only happens if the truck runs
> for a good 2hrs in city driving.  Above 40 at cold and after warming up.

This is an indication of a worn engine.  What weight oil are you using?  If
you are using 10/30 or lighter, you can probably buy more time upping it to
10/40.

> After the 2hrs, I come to any stop sign or a complete stop and the truck
> is at idle.  The light will come on and the needle will drop way low
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> doing
> it for years.  Oil pressure gauge jumps back to normal while driving.

The next time that it does this, put it in neutral and slowly step on the
gas while watching the guage.  If the needle slowly comes up as you increase
RPM's, then as said before, the engine is just wearing out.  If the gauge
suddenly jumps back to normal. it could indicate a bad oil pressure sensor
and I would have that replaced first.  It is not overly expensive and will
confirm what the real problem is.

> I am at a loss.  I had one place tell me it might be the pistons/rings or
> valves
> that need replaced.  I am not sure if it might be a bad job when they
> replaced
> the plenum gasket.

The blue smoke is being caused by either the rings or valve seats and
guides, depending on when the smoke occures.  Start-up smoke is usually
caused by worn valve seals and guides and smoke while running is usually
caused by worn rings and/or cylinder walls.  The plenum gasket repair has
nothing to do with either.

> Just at a loss and would like to know if anyone else
> had this problem or if anyone knows what the problem is.

The symptoms that you described and the situation where it occurs really
sounds like a tired engine.  The oil pressure is dropping at idle when the
engine is hot but it may not be dropping as much as the gauge indicates.
You can replace the sensor and see if anything changes and you can increase
the viscosity of the oil to buy yourself a little more time.

> Hate to get rid of this truck, since it has been a great truck and with
> almost
> 150,000 miles on it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.

You could always have the engine rebuilt if the rest of the truck is worth
the expense.  The way I do it is to figure out how much the project will
cost and then take a good look at the vehicle and determine if I could get a
replacement in the same condition for the same or less money.  If so, then I
don't bother as I would be wasting money.  Good luck.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

aarcuda69062 - 09 Mar 2008 18:24 GMT
> Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
> have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil problem.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> out because I was having erratic heat temperatures coming out the vents
> at idle.

Why anyone would do an intake gasket job and -not- replace the
thermostat is beyond me...

> Now, I have my oil light coming on. This only happens if the truck runs
> for a good 2hrs in city driving.  Above 40 at cold and after warming up.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> it is at the "safe" level.  I know it blows blue smoke but it has been doing
> it for years.  Oil pressure gauge jumps back to normal while driving.

Sounds like this may be a high mileage engine.

> I am at a loss.  I had one place tell me it might be the pistons/rings or
> valves

Any of the three is quite a stretch.

> that need replaced.  I am not sure if it might be a bad job when they
> replaced
> the plenum gasket.  

If they used Roloc discs to clean the gasket surfaces, the debris
from the Roloc discs will more often then not find its way to the
bearings and destroy them.  Oil analysis and autopsy of the oil
filter will reveal whether this has happened.

> Just at a loss and would like to know if anyone else
> had this problem or if anyone knows what the problem is.

Or, it could simply be that the oil pressure sending unit has
worn out and needs replacing.

> Hate to get rid of this truck, since it has been a great truck and with
> almost
> 150,000 miles on it.

Does your repair order from the intake gasket job show that the
engine oil and filter was changed ?  It should/better have been!
Christopher D. Thompson - 09 Mar 2008 22:11 GMT
> Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
> have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Any help would be appreciated.

How often has the oil been changed? regularly? as in every 3,000 miles?
put a manual gauge on it and run it for long enough to get it acting up,
if the manual gauge shows a problem then drop the pan and look. i suspect
you will find sludge particles floating around in the oil pan, these get
picked up in the oil pump's pickup screen little by little. then you find
a dropping or erratic oil pressure. most common is the dropping oil
pressure. If you find sludge your best course of action is to replace the
engine assy. the next best would be to clean the pan, replace the oil
pump and pickup tube then hope you can last a while before enough of the
sludge up top gets dislodged to start causing you problems again.

When i was working on cars i replaced more than a few engines for this
very thing.

another guess would be that you have a leaking oil pressure sending unit.
I've seen them leak into the plastic housing and after its warmed up good
give all kids of erratic/wrong readings before again this can be proven
with a visual inspection and mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Signature

Chris

Ann - 10 Mar 2008 04:37 GMT
Thanks to all who gave some insight.

I just had the oil pressure sending unit/switch? *behind the engine*
replaced.

Yes, oil change has been done every 3,000 miles as I have had problems
before
with the oil pickup screen getting clogged. That was replaced last year
along with
the oil pump.

Last place that worked on it changed the oil and put 10W40 in it.  I am
wondering
if the place before them actually did any work because the last place I took
it to
said the thermostat was not replaced and had not been changed in quite some
time.
That was based on the way the gasket was when it was taken off.

As for the blue smoke, I am thinking about having the piston rings redone on
my
extended warranty and since they have to take off the top part of the engine
to
replace the valve seals and guides while they are in there and accessable.
Any
other gasket they can get to, might as well replace those.

Just today on errands, after it was warmed up, the needle would slowly drop
to
just above the lower mark and stay there.  But then sometimes at idle, it
would
be just enough for the light to flicker on / off.  I did slowly give it gas
at idle but
the needle did not jump.  Got it up to 2000 RPMs and it slowly got up to
just
below 40 and then after letting off the gas, it slowly dropped again.

Needless to say, I think the piston rings, valve seals and guides and
another
plenum gasket will need to be done and hopefully they will put it all back
together
correctly.  As I have a feeling the last place did not do it right.  As for
the oil
pressure sensor, since a new is on, maybe it is a bad one or something
internaly
in the engine. The last place told me they put a gauge on the sensor and it
matched what the needle was showing.

Thanks for the great comments.... anymore to what I have included above?
> Ok guys, I have been reading your posts for quite some time now and I
> have used alot of the good advice here. I am at my end with an oil
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
TBone - 10 Mar 2008 05:28 GMT
> Thanks to all who gave some insight.
>
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
>
> Thanks for the great comments.... anymore to what I have included above?

The plenum gasket has nothing to do with the problems that you are now
having.  Also neither the rings or the valve seals have anything to do with
oil pressure.  If you are already running 10W40, then it is time for a
rebuild.  The results from the test that you performed indicates that the
sensor is working properly and your engine is losing oil pressure due to
bearing wear.  If you are considering replacing the rings, have them do a
full rebuild since they basically have to take most of the engine apart
anyway to do that and you need the bearings replaced anyway.  Take it to
someone that you trust and ask them for a full breakdown of what they are
going to do.

Signature

If at first you don't succeed,  you're not cut out for skydiving

Ann - 10 Mar 2008 11:59 GMT
Hmmm  a rebuild....  I cringe at the cost of that and do not think my
extended
warranty would cover that.  That would leave me eating up the cost.

Maybe it is time for a new truck!

>> Thanks to all who gave some insight.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 57 lines]
> someone that you trust and ask them for a full breakdown of what they are
> going to do.
Tom Lawrence - 10 Mar 2008 12:10 GMT
> Hmmm  a rebuild....  I cringe at the cost of that and do not think my
> extended warranty would cover that.  That would leave me eating up the
> cost.

What kind of extended warranty do you have on a 12 year old truck?
Ann - 10 Mar 2008 23:48 GMT
I bought an extended warranty from a company for a couple grand that
covers about 75% of the engine and powertrain.  But it only pays out
if there is a part that actually breaks down.  Will cover gaskets, etc..
if some tear down is required to get to a part.  It will cover pistons
and rings! so that is why I am thinking of having them pay for that along
with whatever else it takes to get to the pistons.  Just hoping that there
is nothing else discovered while tearing down.

Engine runs smooth, no knocks, pings, etc.. other than this #@$^$#
oil pressure problem and blue smoke.  I can smell the smoke when
I have to put it in reverse when backing into the driveway or if at idle
I give it gas.

If I have to do a rebuild. I will buy a new truck and sell this one or keep
it parked in the driveway until I have money for a rebuild.

>> Hmmm  a rebuild....  I cringe at the cost of that and do not think my
>> extended warranty would cover that.  That would leave me eating up the
>> cost.
>
> What kind of extended warranty do you have on a 12 year old truck?
nunya - 11 Mar 2008 13:44 GMT
>I bought an extended warranty from a company for a couple grand that
> covers about 75% of the engine and powertrain.  But it only pays out
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>>
>> What kind of extended warranty do you have on a 12 year old truck?

don't know how my last reply to this thread ended up starting a new thread
but either i or my news reader hit a bad line of code.  i don't believe in
rebuilding in todays modern age of crate engines unless it is a classic
engine and ride.  you can get a drop in replacement from mopar with a
warranty in the 3,000 dollar range.  i can't buy the parts and pay the
machine shop for that.  much less figure in labor.
michael
Nosey - 11 Mar 2008 13:56 GMT
> don't know how my last reply to this thread ended up starting a new
> thread but either i or my news reader hit a bad line of code.

The subject line was changed so it shows up as a new topic.
Signature

Ken

PeterD - 11 Mar 2008 14:17 GMT
>I bought an extended warranty from a company for a couple grand that
>covers about 75% of the engine and powertrain.  But it only pays out
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>If I have to do a rebuild. I will buy a new truck and sell this one or keep
>it parked in the driveway until I have money for a rebuild.

Try some Lucas oil treatment... That may solve (temporarily) your
problems. Eventually you will need to rebuild probably.

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