Fuse is good. Power is def being sent through the switch to the
intermittent controller, so I think the switch is ok too. The
intermittent is clicking when powered, so it MAY be good but I don't
have the test procedures to verify.
R(k)
On Thu, 10 Apr 2008 14:52:18 -0700, grimisme wrote:
> Fuse is good. Power is def being sent through the switch to the
> intermittent controller, so I think the switch is ok too. The
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>> Is the power fuse to the wipers still good? Could be control power
>> is from a different source. wag
break out your test light and connected it to ground then probe the "hot"
wire going to the motor. unplug it if you need to. with the light
connected between the power and ground when you cycle your wiper switch
you should see your test light "light up" should blink as the
intermittent wiper controller does its thing and should burn steady on
low/high.
consult your wiring diagram if in doubt what wires are the "hot" and
"ground"....best i can do for you as i dont have a wiring diagram or a 86
ram charger to look at.

Signature
Chris
grimisme@gmail.com - 12 Apr 2008 19:33 GMT
Update:
I pulled the motor off the truck last night. I test for voltage at the
harness with the switch on, and I got a reading. On this wiper motor
is a little module with 5 spade slots that plug into the motor just
above where the harness connects. I took that off, and plugged the
motor back in and the motor works if I manually ground one of the
spades.
On the motor body, there are 4 spades for the harness, lined up like
this: | | | | and checking continuity against a 5th spade the module
plugs into, the outer two have continuity with the 5th one, and the
inner two with each other only. Since the module snaps onto all 5, I
imagine it is acting kind of like a bus and distributing power to the
other connections. Testing continuity on this module fails, none of
the slots have continuity with each other which I would expect if
that's what it is doing.
I think this may be a noise suppression module, inside are what look
like cylindrical capacitors, the only marking I can make out on one is
250v and MAC.
Anyway, heading to the wrecking yard in a bit as the module is not
available without a new motor. And I'm too cheap for that, especially
since the motor works ;)
grimisme@gmail.com - 12 Apr 2008 20:32 GMT
Update 2:
Not going to the wrecking yard. After my last post, I thought about
what was actually happening. I went back out and plugged that module
in then ran a jumper from the motor mount plate to ground. The motor
does exactly what it should at all switch positions.
Take the jumper off, the motor stops. Looks like I have a bad ground
somewhere.
Will post back with conclusion.