Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / November 2008
Diesel Trucks
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.boB - 14 Oct 2008 02:43 GMT My little Dakota is about to give it up. As much as I hate to trade it in, I can't afford to keep it any longer.
A truck is no longer my daily driver. I need something to get me around in bad weather, carry more than 2 people, and tow a light trailer (5000#) at high altitude.
I looked at the new Ram, and I like it. But it's a lot heavier than my Dakota, and the Hemi doesn't impress me. It would be a step down in the power:weight ratio. It won't tow as well as my 5.9L Dakota.
Of course, that points directly at the turbo diesel. Excellent power even at 9,000' ASL. My Dakota only gets 6-9mpg while towing. I would expect the turbo diesel to do considerably better than that. There were rumors of the Dakota Diesel, but I don't see that happening any time soon.
Now, here's the rub. I don't know a lot about diesel trucks. I know enough about gas engines to pick a good one, and fix it if I have to. But not so with a diesel. I drove them around a bit over the years, but never owned one or worked on one.
Sometime in the next few months, I'll be buying one. I'm looking at all three: Dodge, Ford, and Chevy. Not particularly biased for or against either one. I like Dodge trucks, been driving them forever. Learned to drive in a Dodge work van back in the 70's. I hear that the Cummins engine is the best diesel around. I like the fact that it's an in line engine; in the gas engines, in-lines make more torque. But I also hear the Allison transmission in the Chevy is the best trans around.
For diesel owners, what do you like and dis-like? If you could buy another new truck today, what would it be?
What about a used truck? I'm probably more interested in a good used one. But all I'v seen have 100K miles or more on them. That's fine for the engine, but shocks, brakes, diffs, etc don't last that long. If you could have any recent model used truck, what would it be?
I have a bunch of other questions. But that will do for now.
-------- .boB 2006 FXDI hot rod 2008 Mustang Coupe 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.
DDT - 14 Oct 2008 14:25 GMT hemi has lots of towing power for 5000#, so does 310 hp 4.7 in dakota. Both much cheaper to own/operate the ram diesel for occational towing.
 Signature Dick dickmellon@att.net
> My little Dakota is about to give it up. As much as I hate to trade it > in, I can't afford to keep it any longer. [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 > 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. Fearless Fred - 14 Oct 2008 21:22 GMT It really will depend on the amount of towing you will be doing.
If you paln on traveling a lot towing a large trailer, such as a fifth wheel, you'll have to seriously consider the diesel.
Fred
 Signature Black 1999 Ram 2500 CTD Quad Cab Sport Black 2001 Dakota 4.7L 4X4 Sport
> hemi has lots of towing power for 5000#, so does 310 hp 4.7 in dakota. > Both [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] >> 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 >> 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast. Tom Lawrence - 15 Oct 2008 00:34 GMT > last that long. If you could have any recent model used truck, what > would it be? My first choice would be an '03 or early '04 Ram, diesel, with 6spd trans. The reason being is that it's the least complicated of the "all-electronic" engines, and no emissions equipment to speak of. The engine is bomb-proof, the transmission bullet-proof, and the axles HD-enough to not have to worry about for some time. I'd take an '03 or '04 over a late '98-'02, because of the more reliable injection system. The 24V ISB's a fine engine, but the injection pump is susceptible to damage if the fuel supply is diminished (failed lift pump). Comparatively, there have been very few CP3 injection pump (used on the '03 and up engines) failures.
I've had my '03 since I first got it, and having done a bunch of routine maintenance (as well as a bunch of non-routine upgrades), it's been the easiest truck I've owned to work on. Very few times have I ever encountered the "now why in the HELL did they do THAT?!" feeling when working on something.
While pulling an enclosed 8'x18' trailer, loaded with about 9K inside it, I was getting about 14MPG on flat land. Empty, driving around, I'm typically around 18-19MPG, but that's because I drive it like it's a sports car. If I were more mindful, I could easily get 21MPG from it. A performance box helps - keep the power level turned down, but the timing a little advanced, and it improves fuel economy over stock. Yes, really.
As for working on the engine itself, well... there's not really that much to it. Oil changes are the same - filter's a little tough to get to from underneath, but removing the air box (good time to clean it out anyway, and it's only a couple of nuts holding it in place) gives you easy access while leaning over the right fender. Fuel filter changes are equally as easy - canister with a screw-on lid on the driver's side - might need a stepstool to reach it, but you just spin the lid off with a socket wrench, pull the filter out, wipe out the bowl, install a new one, and you're done. The injection system is self-priming, so no concern about purging the air out first. The serp. belt is no different than any other engine... water pump is two bolts to swap out (literally takes about 10 minutes to change one). Most sensors are each to reach, and so far I've been able to diagnose any problem via the built-in OBD-II code display on the dash (most of my problems have been self-induced).
Valves should be adjusted after 100K, and every 100K after that. This is also a simple job - just remove the valve cover, and adjust the rocker-arm clearances with a feeler gauge. Nothing fancy to worry about there. No timing chain to worry about - no distributor or DIS to worry about... overall, I think maintaining a diesel engine is easier than a gasoline equivalent.
PeterD - 15 Oct 2008 14:27 GMT >> last that long. If you could have any recent model used truck, what >> would it be? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >the transmission bullet-proof, and the axles HD-enough to not have to worry >about for some time. Things to check on that 03/04 would be front axel u-joints and ball joints which seem to have a much higher than normal failure rate. (Ball joints seem to be a very common failure, and can provide some price negoiation room for you!)
.boB - 15 Oct 2008 15:53 GMT > On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 19:34:54 -0400, "Tom > Lawrence" [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > and can provide some > price negoiation room for you!) Thanx to both of you. That's valuable information.
-------- .boB 2006 FXDI hot rod 2008 Mustang Coupe 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.
brokersdad - 17 Nov 2008 00:41 GMT One thing i've found owning a diesel (02 Ram CTD), any money you think your saving now , they usually get you when it comes time to repair it! Don't really know if it's worth owning one unless your heavy into hauling
Carolina Watercraft Works - 17 Nov 2008 04:48 GMT Unless you can fix your own.
 Signature ------------------------------------------ Laszlo Almasi ----Cool Toys ----Mack Daddy Trailers ----Ice Angels
> One thing i've found owning a diesel (02 Ram CTD), any money you think > your saving now , they usually get you when it comes time to repair it! > Don't really know if it's worth owning one unless your heavy into hauling Tom Lawrence - 17 Nov 2008 05:03 GMT > One thing i've found owning a diesel (02 Ram CTD), any money you think > your saving now , they usually get you when it comes time to repair it! Such as?
brokersdad - 17 Nov 2008 10:24 GMT On the 02 Dodge cummins right back to 98.5 it's the notorious lift pump and injection pump problem. Lift pump pressure fails and if you don't notice quick enough it takes the injection pump with it and that job can run you about $3000. The 03 and up Dodge has a different injection pump so I don't think it's an issue on those, but I still hear of them having lift pump issues., so you may be looking at an upgrade to an aftermarket pump to solve a potential problem. That's how I solved my 02's problem. Throttle posistion sensors are another one I hear about, they run about $500 from what i'm told. Oil changes run you about $75-$100 bucks and of course don't forget the price of diesel...more than gas. If your a guy that can't do any of your own work on the engine part of the truck yourself, a good mechanic can run you about $100 an hour..at leat thats what Cummins Eastern in Dartmouth was charging.
brokersdad - 17 Nov 2008 10:25 GMT On the 02 Dodge cummins right back to 98.5 it's the notorious lift pump and injection pump problem. Lift pump pressure fails and if you don't notice quick enough it takes the injection pump with it and that job can run you about $3000. The 03 and up Dodge has a different injection pump so I don't think it's an issue on those, but I still hear of them having lift pump issues., so you may be looking at an upgrade to an aftermarket pump to solve a potential problem. That's how I solved my 02's problem. Throttle posistion sensors are another one I hear about, they run about $500 from what i'm told. Oil changes run you about $75-$100 bucks and of course don't forget the price of diesel...more than gas. If your a guy that can't do any of your own work on the engine part of the truck yourself, a good mechanic can run you about $100 an hour..at leat thats what Cummins Eastern in Dartmouth was charging.
mac davis - 17 Nov 2008 16:12 GMT >> One thing i've found owning a diesel (02 Ram CTD), any money you think >> your saving now , they usually get you when it comes time to repair it! > >Such as? Probably all those spark plugs and distributor caps..
mac
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