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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / October 2008Bleed trapped air from coolant system ?
I did an oil change and backflushed the heater core today because it wasnt too warm even when the engine had warmed up,and it helped the heater to blow hotter than it was before,but now i can hear the water sloshing around behind the dash when i rev up / accelerate. It sounds to me like there is a bit of air trapped in there. If thats the case,how can i bleed it off? I let the engine idle for a few mins, and took around the block a few times while keeping an eye on the temp gauge,which didn't go any higher than normal,so I also want to know if its safe to drive it like this >I did an oil change and backflushed the heater core today because it wasnt >too warm even when the engine had warmed up,and it helped the heater to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >while keeping an eye on the temp gauge,which didn't go any higher than >normal,so I also want to know if its safe to drive it like this And when i said water,I meant coolant ! >I did an oil change and backflushed the heater core today because it wasnt >too warm even when the engine had warmed up,and it helped the heater to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >while keeping an eye on the temp gauge,which didn't go any higher than >normal,so I also want to know if its safe to drive it like this This is a problem with corvettes as well. You have to sorta burp them. Park on a steep incline with the nose high, open the radiator cap and run it, the air will come out. Vettes had a bleeder on the thermostat housing for this. >>I did an oil change and backflushed the heater core today because it wasnt >>too warm even when the engine had warmed up,and it helped the heater to [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > it, the air will come out. Vettes had a bleeder on the thermostat housing > for this. Thanks Roy,I just gave it a try,took the cap off and let it idle for a few mins and then topped it up a bit to replace any expelled air. Then I took it round the block a few times and it wasnt nearly as noticable,although one particular sharp left i made, i did notice it,but after that i think it settled down . I'll try it again tomorrow and see how it goes. ! By the way,I've only had the truck a few months and i dont know when the last time it was flushed out,if ever,there was loads of brown sh.t came out when i flushed it,but it went clear after about 60 seconds Still looks kinda dirty in the reservoir too,even after refilling with coolant,maybe i should flush out the rad and reservoir too. I was trying to find a drain plug on the rad but couldnt find it. Do you happen to know where it is? Its so tight down there i couldnt really tell. >>>I did an oil change and backflushed the heater core today because it >>>wasnt too warm even when the engine had warmed up,and it helped the [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > I was trying to find a drain plug on the rad but couldnt find it. Do you > happen to know where it is? Its so tight down there i couldnt really tell. Ah, if you only flushed the heater core, the crap from the rest of the cooling system will be right back into it. Best to do the whole thing at one time. Regards the drain, I haven't a clue. I always drop the lower radiator hose. Thinking about it, you say you have only had the truck a few months. Where it is a 2K and if they are originals, it might be time to change out all the hoses while your making a mess. > I was trying to find a drain plug on the rad but couldnt find it. Do you > happen to know where it is? Its so tight down there i couldnt really tell. You don't say what kind of vehicle you have, but on most, the drain is on the inside (facing the engine) of the radiator, bottom-left (driver's side) corner. There should be a little nipple sticking down, with a plastic valve that you can turn. You need to twist this counter-clockwise, while pulling it out. It's OK to twist it back and forth while pulling on it, just so that you end up with it 90° from where it was (the handle of the valve should be in-line with the nipple - just like a gas valve shutoff). >> I was trying to find a drain plug on the rad but couldnt find it. Do you >> happen to know where it is? Its so tight down there i couldnt really [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > it was (the handle of the valve should be in-line with the nipple - just > like a gas valve shutoff). Cool,I'll check that out,might as well flush the whole thing. And the sloshing noise seems to have cleared up,and the heater is nice and toasty now at least. >> I was trying to find a drain plug on the rad but couldnt find it. Do you >> happen to know where it is? Its so tight down there i couldnt really [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > it was (the handle of the valve should be in-line with the nipple - just > like a gas valve shutoff). Cool,I'll check that out,might as well flush the whole thing.Coolant is cheap enough. Heater is nice and toasty now at least too >I did an oil change and backflushed the heater core today because it wasnt >too warm even when the engine had warmed up,and it helped the heater to blow [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >keeping an eye on the temp gauge,which didn't go any higher than normal,so I >also want to know if its safe to drive it like this It would really help to know what make model, etc.. My Dodge Dakota has an air bleed next to the radiator cap... Takes about a 3/8" allen, as I recall.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing > On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 18:28:13 -0700, "Me" > <Thisisafakeaddress@fakeexample.fake> [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > 3/8" > allen, as I recall.. I believe it is a 2K Dak bro. Roy > mac > > Please remove splinters before emailing On a 97 dakotas the drain is on left lower, rear. Turn it a 1/4 turn left and pull out. I'm fighting heater core leak since flushing with prestone flush. Wish I had'nt done that. Added two small bars leak but it is still leaking.  SignatureDick > On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 18:28:13 -0700, "Me" > <Thisisafakeaddress@fakeexample.fake> [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Please remove splinters before emailing Yeah,sorry,it is a 2000 Dak. >> My Dodge Dakota has an air bleed next to the radiator cap... Takes about a >> 3/8" allen, as I recall.. >Yeah,sorry,it is a 2000 Dak. Should be the same, ours is a 2001 with 4.7L, built in 2000 mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
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