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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / March 2009

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Replace Ram Front Shocks

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scorpioex1@msn.com - 19 Mar 2009 20:07 GMT
Friends,

    I have a 1996, Ram, 1500, SLT, 4X4, 5.9, with the snow plow/
towing group.  I do plow snow.  One of my front shocks blew.  I was
looking on Rock Auto and, as usual, I'm a bit comfused.  They talk
about some with 2" or 4" lift.  I'm not sure which I need.  Also any
brand recomendations would be appriciated.

    Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated
than in the Chrysler Service Manual.  Are there any tricks or
suggestions for their replacement.  Thanks.

Steve
Roy - 19 Mar 2009 20:22 GMT
> Friends,
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> about some with 2" or 4" lift.  I'm not sure which I need.  Also any
> brand recomendations would be appriciated.

If your truck is not lifted get the hd shock. I've been happy with monroe in
snow plowing applications. Although I have not plowed snow with a 1/2 ton
truck.

How much plow weight are you carrying. Make and model

>     Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated
> than in the Chrysler Service Manual.  Are there any tricks or
> suggestions for their replacement.  Thanks.
>
> Steve
scorpioex1@msn.com - 19 Mar 2009 20:39 GMT
Roy,

    It's a bit much for a 1/2 ton but I have a Boss 7 1/2' Super Duty
straight blade.  I have a set of 3/4 ton timbrens in the front.  I
have 3/4's because the 1/2 tons wouldn't fit and in talking with the
factory they sent me the 3/4's for free saying they would fit better
when I described my truck's front end.

Steve

> <scorpio...@msn.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
Roy - 20 Mar 2009 00:43 GMT
Roy,

    It's a bit much for a 1/2 ton but I have a Boss 7 1/2' Super Duty
straight blade.  I have a set of 3/4 ton timbrens in the front.  I
have 3/4's because the 1/2 tons wouldn't fit and in talking with the
factory they sent me the 3/4's for free saying they would fit better
when I described my truck's front end.

Steve

I couldn't find a site that had the weight of your plow. I'd still go with
the monroe's. But I've been out of plowing for a couple of years and things
may have changed

Hopefully Denny will pick up on this thread.

Here is a site that is nothing but snow plowing.  http://www.plowsite.com/
try looking here or asking a question of these folks.
Tom Lawrence - 20 Mar 2009 00:47 GMT
>     Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated
> than in the Chrysler Service Manual.  Are there any tricks or
> suggestions for their replacement.  Thanks.

Nothing much to it.  The bottom bolt is accessed from the front - it's got a
flag nut on the back (a flag nut is a nut pressed in to a piece of metal
that jams itself against something, preventing the nut from turning when you
loosen/tighten).   Once that bolt is removed, remove the shock tower from
the top by removing the three nuts holding it down.  Depending on the
clearance, you can sometimes pull the whole shock still attached to the
tower up and out.  If not, remove the top shock nut (hold the stud on the
shock from moving with a wrench or vise grips.  Better shocks have an allen
head broached in the top of the stud for this purpose), remove the tower,
then pull the shock out.  On a relatively new/non-rusty vehicle, it's pretty
easy.

On an old rusty shock, it can be a bitch to get the top nut off.  If you can
fit a Sawzall in, you can cut it off.  If not, you could split the nut with
a cold chisel.  On some shocks, I've resorted to griding a couple of flat on
the rod with a grinder, then grabbing it with a set of vise grips to keep it
from turning - but in your application, the coil springs would be in the
way.

If there's enough threads showing on the stud, you could double-nut the top
of the stud (jam two nuts against each other), hold the top nut, and turn
the one that's holding the shock to the tower.

Sometimes you have to get a little creative.

Of course, before resorting to the above methods, soak the nuts with
penetrating oil (real penetrating oil, like Kroil or PB Blaster.  WD-40 is
not that good of a penetrating oil) first.
scorpioex1@msn.com - 20 Mar 2009 03:00 GMT
Thanks Roy and Tom,

    Roy, it's a RT3 and I believe the blade weight is knocking on 700
lbs.

    Tom, the Haynes says I need to put the truck on jack stands.  Is
that necessary?

Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't
figure out if anyone may know.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.dodge.trucks/browse_thread/thread/4e606
e653a4ee420?hl=en
#

Thanks again, Steve
<
<

> >     Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated
> > than in the Chrysler Service Manual.  Are there any tricks or
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> penetrating oil (real penetrating oil, like Kroil or PB Blaster.  WD-40 is
> not that good of a penetrating oil) first.
Tom Lawrence - 20 Mar 2009 04:57 GMT
>    Tom, the Haynes says I need to put the truck on jack stands.  Is that
> necessary?

Not really - might make it a little easier lining up the new shock, but it's
not like you have to take any weight off the suspension or anything.

> Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't
> figure out if anyone may know.

No idea on that one...  sorry.
GeekBoy - 20 Mar 2009 19:43 GMT
"Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't
figure out if anyone may know."

I went to one of those gritty looking NAPA dealers (not the usual retail
outlet) looking for a part I had no name of either.
I waited around for 30 minutes, but they found the exact part I needed for a
vehicle that GM no longer makes part for (or hardly anyone else too).

Thanks Roy and Tom,

    Roy, it's a RT3 and I believe the blade weight is knocking on 700
lbs.

    Tom, the Haynes says I need to put the truck on jack stands.  Is
that necessary?

Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't
figure out if anyone may know.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.dodge.trucks/browse_thread/thread/4e606
e653a4ee420?hl=en
#

Thanks again, Steve
<
<

On Mar 19, 6:47 pm, "Tom Lawrence" <n...@go.away.edu> wrote:
> > Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated
> > than in the Chrysler Service Manual. Are there any tricks or
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
> penetrating oil (real penetrating oil, like Kroil or PB Blaster. WD-40 is
> not that good of a penetrating oil) first.
scorpioex1@msn.com - 20 Mar 2009 21:14 GMT
Thanks Again,

    Tom, they're soaking as we speak and the shocks will be in
tomorrow.

    GeekBoy, I know just the gritty NAPA store to try and if not I'll
try the dealer.  As a coincidence I just got a "Special Exclusive
Invitation" from the dealership I bought the truck from with a
guaranteed winning number on it if I come in.  I could win $15,000
cash; a $500 Walmart gift card; or a $5 Walmart card.  I wonder which
I won?  In all honesty they've been decent to me over the years and
I'm looking for a new vehicle for my girlfriend so it won't hurt to
stop by.

    Let you know how the repair goes.

Steve

> I went to one of those gritty looking NAPA dealers (not the usual retail
> outlet) looking for a part I had no name of either.
> I waited around for 30 minutes, but they found the exact part I needed for a
> vehicle that GM no longer makes part for (or hardly anyone else too).
scorpioex1@msn.com - 20 Mar 2009 21:18 GMT
> Thanks Again,
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
scorpioex1@msn.com - 20 Mar 2009 21:22 GMT
Roy,

    I got Monroe Gas Magnums.  Sound Okay?

Steve

<
<
<

With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.
Roy - 20 Mar 2009 22:04 GMT
> Roy,
>
>     I got Monroe Gas Magnums.  Sound Okay?

They should do.

Gotta ask how many miles on the shock that blew? Were they originals?

> Steve
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.
scorpioex1@msn.com - 20 Mar 2009 22:44 GMT
Roy,

    They are originals.  She's only knocking on 100,000 but they've
been all hard working miles though.  I haul, tow, and plow on the
shores of Lake Erie (so salt is always a lurking demon) and she's
never spent a day out of the weather.  Also, I'm the only one in the
family with a pickup so....  But I'm glad to help when I can.  I don't
baby her but try to take reasonably care.  I'm guessing I have either
a back window or third brake light leaking into the passenger
footwell, an active ABS and brake light indicator which I believe is
related to that rear axle clamp, a faulty drivers side window
regulator, a passenger side window that likes to 'go down' but not
up.  I have a few projects ahead of me, as we all always do.  Along
with leaking transmission lines that I haven't gotten to yet.
Hopefully all summer jobs.  Thanks again for all the advise.

Steve

> Roy,

>     I got Monroe Gas Magnums.  Sound Okay?

They should do.

Gotta ask how many miles on the shock that blew? Were they originals?

- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

> Steve

> <
> <
> <

> With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.
Roy - 20 Mar 2009 22:54 GMT
> Roy,
>
>     They are originals.

I figure shocks are good for about 2 years without a plow. You did well with
yours.

She's only knocking on 100,000 but they've
> been all hard working miles though.  I haul, tow, and plow on the
> shores of Lake Erie (so salt is always a lurking demon) and she's
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
>> With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.
Roy - 20 Mar 2009 21:08 GMT
Thanks Roy and Tom,

    Roy, it's a RT3 and I believe the blade weight is knocking on 700
lbs.

With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.
 
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