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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Trucks / June 2009

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Another clunk!

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PeterD - 31 May 2009 17:34 GMT
OK, leaving for the flea market this AM...

About four miles from house, at 50 or so, get a rrriiiiiiittttt-clunk.
Stop and check, nothing obviouls. The rrriiiiiiiitttt sound is fast
(much faster than once per tire revolution). Once the clunk happens,
all is quiet for the rest of the trip.

Finish the flea market, and headed to Wally World. About 40 MPH and
get the exact same thing, but sooner, about two miles into the drive.
Exact same noise. A quick rrriiiiiiittttt (we're talking a couple of
seconds) and the clunk.

Finish Wally World, and pull out of the parking lot. A (short) block,
make a left turn, and in the middle of the turn 'Clunk'. No
rrriiiiitttt sound, but pronounced clunk.

Each time, happens once then never happens again for that drive. Three
trip segments, got almost the same thing each time (with the exception
that the third time, the pre-noise didn't happen.

The clunk feels and sounds just like a stuck brake pad, but since the
truck was rolling (without any obvious binding that I could tell) this
seems odd.

Recent repair(s): New pads all four corners. New hub on left front.
Tires are OK.

Dodge Ram 2500 HD Hemi, automatic, standard cab.

Anyone like to take a WAG? <bg>
Bill - 31 May 2009 22:35 GMT
Who replaced pads?
Might want to look at them.

> OK, leaving for the flea market this AM...
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> Anyone like to take a WAG? <bg>
PeterD - 01 Jun 2009 01:09 GMT
>Who replaced pads?
>Might want to look at them.

Me! <g> And I will look into them. They have about 8K miles on them
now (since Feb) including two round trips to Florida from New England
without problems, but that's not saying much...

I think tomorrow I'll toss it on the lift and pull all four wheels and
do a good visual.
FMB - 01 Jun 2009 03:36 GMT
>>Who replaced pads?
>>Might want to look at them.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I think tomorrow I'll toss it on the lift and pull all four wheels and
> do a good visual.

Could the brake fluid be contaminated?  Check out
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/toyota-car-help-t244114.html?p=2492920#po
st2492920

or http://tinyurl.com/mt27ny , post #5.

FMB
(North Mexico)
PeterD - 01 Jun 2009 14:19 GMT
>>>Who replaced pads?
>>>Might want to look at them.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>FMB
>(North Mexico)

If it is contaminated, it happened without opening the master
cylinder! <g> I didn't add (or remove) any fluid when doing the
brakes--monitored the level and it was OK before and after (higher
after, but OK both times).

I think the first thing it to check at the wheels. Bear is that of
course it is not a terribly visual thing to see.

Oddly, one other (missing in my other post) was this happened after
driving in light rain. Not the first wet driving since the last repair
work by a long shot, but it was the first wet drive for some weeks. I
wonder if the caliper pins have some rust/corrosion?
Bill - 02 Jun 2009 11:43 GMT
Does it have anti-lock brakes?

>>> wrote:
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> work by a long shot, but it was the first wet drive for some weeks. I
> wonder if the caliper pins have some rust/corrosion?
PeterD - 02 Jun 2009 13:01 GMT
>Does it have anti-lock brakes?

Yes, but I don't think that is the problem. (Think, but hell at this
point could be, that was my first thought originally!) Yesterday on a
short drive, it made a noise, a very metalic grinding, lasted a couple
of seconds and went away, like always. No precursor to the noise,
nothing after either.

Almost like there was a small rock caught in the pad/rotor area that
was occasionally dropping down into the works, so to speak.

No question, just got to find time to put it on the lift and pull the
wheels for an inspection. Now if those blasted wheels were not so hard
to get off...
Bill - 02 Jun 2009 21:58 GMT
How did you replace the pads?
Did you compress the slave cylinders? Forcing fluid backwards?
Or open the valve to allow it to escape, but you mentioned you did not add
any fluid having to do with the contamination post.

>>Does it have anti-lock brakes?
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> wheels for an inspection. Now if those blasted wheels were not so hard
> to get off...
PeterD - 03 Jun 2009 00:12 GMT
>How did you replace the pads?
>Did you compress the slave cylinders? Forcing fluid backwards?
>Or open the valve to allow it to escape, but you mentioned you did not add
>any fluid having to do with the contamination post.

Fluid backwards, which is how i usually do it.

Truck's in the lift bay now, and tomorrow I'll lift it up, pull the
wheels (where's that blasted sledge hammer?) and see if there is any
thing obvious. Maybe I'll see something.

Q: Am I the only one who has difficulity getting the wheels (stock
steel) off? I find the center hub always sticks, and it takes a couple
of wacks with the hammer to break 'em loose (we're talking NH road
salt, too...)
Bill - 03 Jun 2009 00:37 GMT
That's the problem.... NH...!

I do believe with anti lock brakes, you are not supposed to force the fluid
backward.

Has to do with the anti lock stuff.

That may be your problem.

You mentioned it happens once during any trip, then does not happen until
you power it off, and back on again.

Could be one of those anti lock valves is causing problems.

Might try and flush all the fluid out by replacing each line till it flows
clear.

PIA, but you live in NH...

I do NOT miss the snow. But I do get an awful lot of Hurricanes this way..

> wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> of wacks with the hammer to break 'em loose (we're talking NH road
> salt, too...)
Tom Lawrence - 03 Jun 2009 04:56 GMT
> I do believe with anti lock brakes, you are not supposed to force the
> fluid backward.

Correct...  you could flush some of the junk inside the caliper back up into
the ABS pump.  Always open the bleeder before pushing the piston back.  It
gets some old fluid out, takes any gunk with it, and (most importantly)
keeps the bleeder screw from siezing (if done on a regular basis) so that
when you go to bleed/flush the whole system, you don't snap off a siezed-up
bleeder screw.

>> Q: Am I the only one who has difficulity getting the wheels (stock
>> steel) off? I find the center hub always sticks, and it takes a couple
>> of wacks with the hammer to break 'em loose (we're talking NH road
>> salt, too...)

Nope, you're definitely not the only one.  Try a coat of anti-sieze around
the hub before replacing the wheel.  It will slow down the rust formation.
Regular tire rotation, coupled with anti-sieze, will keep the wheels from
rusting/siezing to the hub.
PeterD - 03 Jun 2009 13:43 GMT
>That's the problem.... NH...!
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
>I do NOT miss the snow. But I do get an awful lot of Hurricanes this way..

I woke up last night about 2 AM... A loud voice, and a flashing red
light said "Check the Parking Brake"... <g> In the past, that voice
has been right more often than wrong, so I'll also check the parking
brake.

(I'm used to trucks that have the parking brakes as part of the main
braking system, so I didn't think about it before...)
Licker - 31 May 2009 23:04 GMT
If one of the pistons on the calibers is sticking you will hear that clunk
when it releases suddendly.  You stated that you replaced all 4 pads.  Do
you mean all 4 wheels?  Check the back since the drive train is pushing the
vehicle.  If it was a front you might feel it pull to one side or another.
PeterD - 01 Jun 2009 01:11 GMT
>If one of the pistons on the calibers is sticking you will hear that clunk
>when it releases suddendly.  You stated that you replaced all 4 pads.  Do
>you mean all 4 wheels?  Check the back since the drive train is pushing the
>vehicle.  If it was a front you might feel it pull to one side or another.

Yes, all four corners. Only had one bad pad (for some reason one of
the rear pads word more than any of the others) but since I had to
pull the front hub to replace it, I did the pads in front too--cost
for parts was trivial overall, and labor was already done. <g>

Since all four wheels are dual-piston calipers one sticking piston
might just be the problem.
Steve W. - 01 Jun 2009 16:39 GMT
>> If one of the pistons on the calibers is sticking you will hear that clunk
>> when it releases suddendly.  You stated that you replaced all 4 pads.  Do
>> you mean all 4 wheels?  Check the back since the drive train is pushing the
>> vehicle.  If it was a front you might feel it pull to one side or another.
>
> Yes, all four corners.

CLUE

Only had one bad pad (for some reason one of the rear pads word more
than any of the others)

CLUE
Hint - one pad worn more than others is a sure sign of a sticking
caliper/piston. I'm betting that one of the calipers isn't sliding
properly and the clunk your hearing is the caliper shifting against the
pins.

> but since I had to pull the front hub to replace it, I did the pads in front too--cost
> for parts was trivial overall, and labor was already done. <g>
>
> Since all four wheels are dual-piston calipers one sticking piston
> might just be the problem.

Signature

Steve W.

PeterD - 01 Jun 2009 18:25 GMT
>>> If one of the pistons on the calibers is sticking you will hear that clunk
>>> when it releases suddendly.  You stated that you replaced all 4 pads.  Do
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>properly and the clunk your hearing is the caliper shifting against the
>pins.

And them's big clues, too... When I pull the wheels I bet I see uneven
wear on that corner again. At least I hope so.

>> but since I had to pull the front hub to replace it, I did the pads in front too--cost
>> for parts was trivial overall, and labor was already done. <g>
>>
>> Since all four wheels are dual-piston calipers one sticking piston
>> might just be the problem.
PeterD - 06 Jun 2009 23:30 GMT
>OK, leaving for the flea market this AM...
>
>About four miles from house, at 50 or so, get a rrriiiiiiittttt-clunk.
>Stop and check, nothing obviouls. The rrriiiiiiiitttt sound is fast
>(much faster than once per tire revolution). Once the clunk happens,
>all is quiet for the rest of the trip.

I hate to leave a thread (I've started) without resolution... So here
it is:

The right front hub has failed. The left one failed in February, now
the right.

I will start another thread, I know Chrysler had a recall on hubs (not
2004s) and I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same problem.
IMHO, the odds that two hubs fail, for the same reason (clearly lack
of lubrication) is very suspect given the other recall.
 
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