Hello,
I have a 98 Dakota with a V6 and the air quits when it gets warm. I checked
the pressure with one of those charger canisters with the gauge on it, it
was a little low, but not much, it is fully charged now. The compressor
cycles on and off and blows cold air until the truck gets warm then the
clutch does not engage again unless the truck is shut off and allowed to
cool. I temporarily bypassed the pressure cycle switch so the compressor
runs constantly but the clutch still disengages, blows warm air and will not
engage when the truck gets warm, (about 5-8 minutes). The radiator is full
and both radiators are clean. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
George
John Smith - 18 Jul 2006 03:45 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> George
Nah, of all the people to find posting here! You don't post on the F1 ng do
you? Trade it in! just kidding, you might have over charged it, not sure if
it has a high pressure switch or not. It could have a bad relay or wire. I
would say bring it in and have it looked at by a pro.
SnoMan - 18 Jul 2006 13:42 GMT
>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>it has a high pressure switch or not. It could have a bad relay or wire. I
>would say bring it in and have it looked at by a pro.
I agree it is liklley overcharge because a cheap gauge on the low
pressure side of system is a poor way to charge the system because it
does not give you a clue as to what is going on on the high side.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
Molesworth - 28 Jul 2006 03:00 GMT
> >> Hello,
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> pressure side of system is a poor way to charge the system because it
> does not give you a clue as to what is going on on the high side.
I had a similar prob, except the air cooling stopped to be replaced with
warm air.... expert says that a vacuum line is blocked/broken and to
check them all out, plus there are at least 2 one-way valves. If either
fails it will default to warm air either at the heater or on the screen.
HTH
Molesworth

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Olaf - 30 Jul 2006 16:43 GMT
>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> sure if it has a high pressure switch or not. It could have a bad relay or
> wire. I would say bring it in and have it looked at by a pro.
A 1998 will have a high-pressure cutout switch, as should any factory r-134a
system. It is required even on an r-12 to r-134a conversion because r-134a
runs at higher pressure. The switch is likely saving your system from
blowing the safety relief valve... which would be good.
R. Pierce Butler - 24 Jul 2006 23:57 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> George
overcharged.
High side pressure switch is shutting off the compressor.
Dido - 25 Jul 2006 02:52 GMT
Recver all refrigerant evacuate system properly
recharge with clean refrigerant start motor put air ON
and make sure your electrial fan (rediator fan) comes on
and stays on, now cooling OK?
from Dido
>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> High side pressure switch is shutting off the compressor.
Stormin Mormon - 25 Jul 2006 03:08 GMT
Or, bunch of air in the system. Good idea at this point to evacuate
the refrigerant charge, vacuum out the air, and charge with a known
weight of new refrigerant.

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Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Creamy Goodness" <creamy_goodness@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:J_GdnceFrYXU1CHZnZ2dnUVZ_qmdnZ2d@comcast.com:
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> George
overcharged.
High side pressure switch is shutting off the compressor.
dashboard - 29 Jul 2006 21:10 GMT
George,
I have the same symptoms on a 98 Dakota V6. Curious if you had the
problem before adding refrigerant. Assuming you've fixed the problem
by now, what did the trick?
Rick
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> George