Hi,
I inherited my mom's 89 Dodge Dakota V6 with TBI. It hasn't been
maintained too well for a while, but neither has it been driven much.
It drove fine for about a month after I got it, being driven
occasionally. It did have an issue with very occasionally dying
immediately after starting. On the second start, it was always fine. I
figured it would go away with the tuneup I would give it soon. Then one
day when I went to drive it after it had sat for two days, it would
barely start, once started would bog badly, and die unless revved. When
it was driven, it would hesitate badly and then lurch forward, or die
as soon as it was in gear. The engine smelled rich. The engine only
smoothed out, a bit, at high RPMs (3000).
No codes in the computer. I replaced the air filter, plugs (quite
worn), cap, rotor, wires, coil. It ran less bad. I then replaced the
MAP sensor, since it seems to be a common issue, and also cleaned the
sensor contacts and the contacts in the computer on the fender. That
made no difference. It will start, no longer dies immediately, and will
idle rough. Still hesitates badly, and occasionally die in gear. The
power kicks in suddenly at a 1500 - 2000 RPM, and the truck lurches.
I'm next replacing the fuel filter, which is likely ten years old or
more. I plan to do the rest of the basics for maintenance to get it to
a good baseline. However, this happened overnight, indicating to me
that something failed overnight. I'm also going to pull the O2 sensor
to see if possibly the catalyst collapsed/clogged. Any other
suggestions for possible culprits?
Thanks.
Larry
Abby Normal - 14 Dec 2006 13:44 GMT
IAC valve. just went through something similar. AutoZone carries them.
> Hi,
>
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> Larry
lweeks@gmail.com - 14 Dec 2006 17:31 GMT
>> The engine smelled rich. The engine only smoothed out, a bit, at high RPMs (3000).
> IAC valve. just went through something similar. AutoZone carries them.
Thanks. However, did you have issues at RPMs above idle, and
hesitation/lurching? Unless this Dodge is different from other cars
I've worked on, the IAC is just a bypass valve to control idle when the
throttle is closed. My cheapo Haynes manual doesn't have a air flow
diagram. I believe that at open throttle, it should make no difference.
This engine runs rough at idle, and open throttle. It runs better at
higher RPMs, but still quite rough.
Larry
utrechtman - 16 Dec 2006 22:16 GMT
After some of the "good" advice you received, I would suggest to test the
EGR back pressure valve,
That is the valve that sits on the intake man. close to the throttle body,
it has two vacuum lines on it. OK now that we know what it looks like,
let's check it.
Remove valve from the EGR valve, with a small screwdriver gently pry the
valve open (just as if you are looking for pearls in shellfish) inside
you'll see a diaphragm, gently inspect it, if it is cracked or split,
well, that's the problem.
Replace the EGR valve assy.
beekeep - 14 Dec 2006 22:31 GMT
>IAC valve. just went through something similar. AutoZone carries them.
Naw, it's a blown hub cap gasket.
beekeep
DJ - 16 Dec 2006 02:56 GMT
Either that or it needs muffler bearings!
DJ
> On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 07:44:53 -0600, "Abby Normal"
> <abby.normal@comcast.net>
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>
> beekeep