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Car Forum / Dodge / Dodge Cars / December 2006

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General Car related question, a real stumper. Need a hand!

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Hachiroku ハチロク - 19 Dec 2006 21:34 GMT
OK, it's NOT a Chrysler, but people here are pretty good at solving
problems:

I have a 1989 Mazda 626. It sat in a friend's yard for 2 years, and when I
loused up my Grand Voyager I bought it for $150.

The Anti-Freeze was Rusti-Freeze. It would get up to operating temp when
idling, so I drained the radiator, put in radiator flush and ran the
procedure according to the instructions. I even filled/drained it a THIRD
time to make sure I got out as much gunk as I could.

Refilled it with Peak AF, probably 60/40 mixture since it was going to
freeze that night and didn't want the block freezing. When I took it out
for a ride, the needle hardly moved from Cold. When the car is left idling
for 10-15 minutes, it gets up to operating temp, the guage reflects the
temperature, the fan kicks on, etc.

After two days, I replaced the thermostat, making sure to place the 'plug'
towards the engine side, the same as the old one that came out, and
according to the Haynes manual I got with the car. Still wouldn't get up
to operating temp under normal driving conditions.

Then I replaced the Radiator cap, knowing that sometimes with the
Chryslers this can have an effect on the operating temp. Nada...still
running Cold.

I didn't know how old the timing belt was, so when I replaced the belt I
replaced the water pump also. The old one was leaking, so it has a new WP
and gasket.

STILL Cold!

I can't figure this one out. I have 'burped' the system to try to release
any trapped air; the radiator and the overflow bottle are right where they
should be. It acts like the Thermostat is stuck open; before I go and open
the thing up again, does anybody have an idea or can point out something I
missed?

Thanks!
dei_rip@yahoo.com - 19 Dec 2006 21:42 GMT
> OK, it's NOT a Chrysler, but people here are pretty good at solving
> problems:
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>
> Thanks!

Maybe you have a bad gauge.
Hachiroku ハチロク - 19 Dec 2006 22:35 GMT
On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:42:47 -0800, dei_rip wrote:

>> OK, it's NOT a Chrysler, but people here are pretty good at solving
>> problems:
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>
> Maybe you have a bad gauge.

Nope, when the car is left to idle, the temp gauge rises, and warm air
blows out of the vents.

When the car is driven, the gauge falls, and cool air blows from the vents.
ransom - 20 Dec 2006 05:46 GMT
> On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:42:47 -0800, dei_rip wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>
> When the car is driven, the gauge falls, and cool air blows from the vents.
ransom - 20 Dec 2006 05:53 GMT
If concern is just that heater blows cold air when driving but hot air
at itdle check the heater control valve.  On some Mazdas they are vacum
controlled.  If you have a vacum leak, or it is sticking (possible from
sitting in rusty coolant) there may not enough vacum above idle to
operate it.

It is common for cars with marginal cooling to run cooler when moving
than at idle due to added air flow.  If it is warming up to proper
temperature  for drivability and emissions, don't worry about actual
gauge reading, just be aware of changes.

> On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:42:47 -0800, dei_rip wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>
> When the car is driven, the gauge falls, and cool air blows from the vents.
ransom - 20 Dec 2006 05:53 GMT
If concern is just that heater blows cold air when driving but hot air
at itdle check the heater control valve.  On some Mazdas they are vacum
controlled.  If you have a vacum leak, or it is sticking (possible from
sitting in rusty coolant) there may not enough vacum above idle to
operate it.

It is common for cars with marginal cooling to run cooler when moving
than at idle due to added air flow.  If it is warming up to proper
temperature  for drivability and emissions, don't worry about actual
gauge reading, just be aware of changes.

> On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:42:47 -0800, dei_rip wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>
> When the car is driven, the gauge falls, and cool air blows from the vents.
Hachiroku ハチロク - 20 Dec 2006 19:53 GMT
> If concern is just that heater blows cold air when driving but hot air at
> itdle check the heater control valve.  On some Mazdas they are vacum
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> for drivability and emissions, don't worry about actual gauge reading,
> just be aware of changes.

Or a bifg piece of plywood blocking off about 3/4 of the radiator. That
took care of it!

Still didn't get anywhere near overheating, and just about got up to
operating temp...

>> On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:42:47 -0800, dei_rip wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>> When the car is driven, the gauge falls, and cool air blows from the
>> vents.
DonTraboulsee - 21 Dec 2006 15:47 GMT
Just a thought, maybe the small vent door that allows the outside air to
blow thru the vents is stuck open, or the seal is worn, therefore when you
drive you force outside air thru the vents along with the warm air. No vent
air is moving thru when it idles. Check around your blower motor. Hope this
helps

Don
Hachiroku ハチロク - 22 Dec 2006 20:28 GMT
> Just a thought, maybe the small vent door that allows the outside air to
> blow thru the vents is stuck open, or the seal is worn, therefore when you
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Don

Actually, that was one of the FIRST things I did because there were mice
living in the car! (opened the glove box to look for the key and a little
face looks back at me...)

What it turned out to be was (and I don't feel too bad because whoever put
in the LAST thermostat did it too!) the machined lip that's supposed to
hold the t-stat in place isn't deep enough, or perhaps the Aftermarket
t-stats just aren't *quite* right for the application, because it appears
to have slipped out of the groove while replacing the housing. Gooping the
gasket, sticking it over the t-stat, and holding the whole mess with a
fingertip while replacing the housing turned out to be the trick. A couple
of top-offs of fresh A/F and the thing runs GREAT!

Now, I have only done 2 thermostats in my Corollas, but they are made so
gravity holds the t-stat while you replace the housing. That way, once it
is placed properly, it CAN'T slip down creating an opening!

Yup, there's plenty of reasons why I like Toyotas!!!
George Jaynes - 19 Dec 2006 22:10 GMT
Feel the hoses going to the heater core when the engine is showing warm.
Both should feel warm or even hot.  You may have a plugged heater core.
After that, I would block the radiator and take it for a ride.  That should
cause the engine towarm up, or perhaps overheat. My last guess is that
little engine is getting SO much cold air circulated around it, it can't
overcome the losses.  Are you missing any sheilds to the side , bottom or
top?
Hachiroku ハチロク - 19 Dec 2006 22:34 GMT
> Feel the hoses going to the heater core when the engine is showing warm.
> Both should feel warm or even hot.  You may have a plugged heater core.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> can't overcome the losses.  Are you missing any sheilds to the side ,
> bottom or top?

The heater core is OK, bacuase when the car DOES warm up after sitting,
the heat blows HOT!!!

I have a piece of cardboard in front of the AC condenser, blocking approx
1/3 of the condenser/radiator. No help!

The shields look OK. I thought of that too, since this summer my Supra was
overheating after REMOVING one of the sheilds (it helped cooling air go to
the radiator).
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Hachiroku ハチロク - 20 Dec 2006 02:36 GMT
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> help...
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[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
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